Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 31, Number 210, 27 August 1906 — Page 7

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Slie of a Dozen Summers or So l(n Kapeclal LWyles Tlie Junior I'ashlons Are, All Commendable Simple Serviceable Materials and bat Little Trimming tlie tnle Comfort Cornea I"i r st Winter Wraps of Mght Weight, bat Vtr Warm The lletweenSeasona Tilings Hats Follow Store Modish Lines It 1 1 bona Are Extremely Prominent The Small Clrl's Hair aud Its Dressing. The mother with a few small girls to flress or even only oue knows well the time of trial In store when school reopens. Tbs summer wardrobe Is lookeil carefully over or whatever remnant of it may fe left nfter the return from the eouutry sojourn, whether that Joyous time h:i aieaut weeks or months and its few pes Ul'iiltieii taken due stock of. The Srst half of September Is usually -nrm enough to continue the wearing of the summer frocks, hut cool evenings autl inornluas will suggest the adtlitiou of loiue llghtivelght and -easily adjustej Mp for outdoor wear. While the little ones have been plnytjj joyously at the seashore or frolicking 111 the mountains machines have been busily whirring and operators turning oot imart coats and wraps, dresses of Innumerable styles, and this year more than tver btfere school bprons for the -ittle mails to save thtir pretty frocks SSlnce the frock is us ially the more imperative item, let us look at them Brat. Disk r'tshlon eeeuis to La been iu bcr i.Kt sensible mood wliea sfce turned h-r flttentioii to the needs of the u-ir.ery folk this season. All of the marl.iis ca the list are of the sensible variety, and this for dressy and party use as well as the everyday school frocks. There are soft French serges that give such end less wear, and that show up even the slightest attempt at trimming to such good effect. There are Henriettas In pretty and dainty colorings, mostly trimmed with a touch of velvet either In the shape xf ribbon or in bias bonds. There ore slclllennes that wear like iron, and come in such pretty checks and plaids that every possible complexion can be well suited, and there are Panamas, ladles' cloths and the softfinished cheviots, which will take the braids that Dame Fashion thicks such a lot of for trimming purposes this year exceedingly well. Solid service Is what tbe fickle old lady evidently alms at In all of her Juvenile modes, knowing full well that the strenuous youngster of to-day is wont to give all sartorial possessions good, hard wear. It has come to be an accepted fact that the American child Is far and away the most sensibly and at the same time the most prettily dressed child of all the civilized nations. The KugUeh child is dressed so plain V that the effect lsone of a skimping partUmooy, and this applies equally to the children of the rich, as well as those of the middle classes. The children of the poor can hardly be said to dress at all, for their garments are usually of a nondescript character. The French child Is usually so overdressed that the result Is not pleasant to look upon, and the constant warnings and cantlonlngs of mamma or bonne anent soiling, crushing or staining their pretty clothes do not leave the poor harassed youngster much time or opportunity for a healthily uuconscious playtime. To be always conscious of one's clothes! What an awful handicap to the average healthy child, to whom clothes are but a needed covering from the weather! The fashions that rule In children's emporiums most assuredly pay due atten- - tlon to play and playtime. There Is a very conspicuous absence of collars from all of the new frocks, and the English fashion of Just a plain little band at the throat and a scrap of lace whipped In for a finish IS gaining ground here rapidly. "Jeeves are loose, and cnCS's,a made that the hand may be thrust Through Instantly. Belts are more a matter of decoration than confinement, and skirts are all of them quite short. The girl of 10. If tall, has her skirt come Just barely over the bend of the knee, and the little girl who Is younger has hers come well above the kneecap.

PLAIDS ARE VEPvY MODISH.

The loose and long lines which are mostly favored for Juvenile clothes are seen at their best when developed In the new plaids that are making such a furore for themselves In the season's fashions. So far light colors have found a -decided preference, and ecru, several shades of tan. light blue, pale green and the softer shades of brown, such as cafe au lait, are barred with more brilliant colorings. Not that they are at all too gay, for there Is so little of the brighter colors used that they merely appear as a pretty touch of contrast. The smart little garment pictured shows aa ecru ground Iu a herringbone weave, with a sort of cross-stitch plaid pattern in uale brown.

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and the little petticoats one or at most two of them are even shorter still. The foreign fashion of short socks and bare legs is followed here by many mothers until the weather gets cold, and usually it is the small girl herself who firsts suggests the chan?'e to long stockings. In many of the wealthy families the short sock rules the year around. Tcggins to match the winter coat are ordered, and those are worn when outdoor dress becomes necessary. The house Is usually warm enough to admit of bare legs and bare arms belug exposed, and there are many English and some American children who wear low neck frocks, short sleeves and short socks the entire year through. Colds are reported as being unknown in such nurseries, and sore throats are seldom. If ever, complained of. School dresses seem prettier than ever before. There zre some extremely attractive plaids and checks, mostly in small designs and subdued colorings, displayed for the girls of 10 ora dozen summers. All of their smartness depends upon the cut and style, for there is a conspicuous lack of trimmings displayed there to cover up any deficiencies of skill. In addition to the staple Russian and sailor frocks they assuredly do not require detailed description at this date there are some simply pretty styles that cannot fall to attract attention and gain approval from the woman of good taste. Where millinery Is concerned, however, there Is a ' closer following In the footsteps of the adult styles than Is evident elsewhere. Doubtless this Is because the grownups themselves have adopted, or are adopting, a conspicuous simplicity in the outline of their tailor-made hats The high-crowned and broad-brimmed hat Is very much In evidence, as is the modification of that shape, known by the name of an Engllsa music-hall artiste. This latter has ruled during the summer with a back brim considerably broader than the front, and In the hands of an, Inexperienced 'milliner Is woof t produce the effect of having been trimmed "right side wrong." or front side behind. Other shapes have broad and low crowus, undulating brims, and many of them are sharply turned up 'at the side, to display a flat-wing effect posed on the under brim. There Is very little of the bandeau to be seen In the small girl's hats; and when it Is present at all it is unobtrusive In size, and more often used to lift the shape a trifle on the face in front than at any other point. Ribbons good, substantial ribbons are the preferred trimming for the fall hats, with occasionally one of the "made" wings to give a touch of style and character to the effect. And quills ore still fn high favor. Just now there seems to be a perfect epidemic of "bobbing" the hair of the small girl. Usually this presents the appearance of having been done In the timehonored fashion, with a bowl and a pair of scissors for the necessary Implements. The hair Is parted on both sides of the front, the resulting lock carried to one side and tied with a gay and splashy boT of ribbon. Then the decapitating bowl Is put on the head, and all the hair that appears below the edge of the bowl Is cut off. Just even with the chin Is the usual depth to which little Miss Millionairess has her hair bobbed this time, and the tled-up lock is fully as long as all the rest after it Is tied up. green and tan. The coat Is cut quite after the masculine pattern, with a full loose back, sharply gored side seams and a double-breasted front- An additional touch of masculinity is given In the little patch pockets and the plain sleeve, although the application of dark green velvet for collar and cuff and for pocket trimmings takes away more than a little from the plain severity of the style. Very handsome buttons are used in a double row for fastening, and the merest touch of a fancy mixed braid Is applied to simulate embroidery upon collar, pocket and cuff. For the growing girl a more simply smart or smartly pimple model could hardly be devised.

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cIhc The Modern. School Frock. The fashions of the grown-ups are followed at a'considerable distance, it must be admitted by those of the younger generation; but there is Just enough of resemblance between the two styles to bring them Into a certain amount of harmony. In the sleeve, perhaps, more than In any other part of the garment. Is the trend of the current style noticeable; and pretty much the same sleeve designs are used to day for mother and daughter. For the growing youngster, however, who seems to cultivate an especial knack of displaying an undue length of limb at knee and wrist, the use of the bishop sleeve, with a more or less deep cuff, that can be either renewed or lengthened, and either a very deep hem or a couple of tucks In the skirt, that may be let down, will forestall the rejection of the frock as outgrown ere Its usefulness is past. A smart and serviceable self-plald in a medium moss-green shade of sicilienne is shown In the illustration, fashloced after a style that commends Itself at sight as being both sufiJciently pretty and sensible. The waist part there is a fitted lining underneath is disposed in broad pleats that are stitched down tuck fashion for some inches, back and front, and then gently bloused Into a belt that occurs at the natural waistline. The skirt is in five gores, deeply pleated at the waist and well pressed to the deep hem, so that the skirt retains the pleated shape throughout. An embroidered white cloth collar, lappet and shoulder straps serve to relieve the dark coloring of the little frock and add a touch of modishness to its finish. In Her Outdoor Dress. School days are coming, and with them the chill winds of autumn time. The little maid who goes to school or kindergarten will welcome the smart new overcoats which the shops are liberally displaying. And, by the way, overcoats ar what the smart London tailors who cater to the children cf the peerage term the street wraps of both the small boys and girls. The little model that forms the subject cf Illustration displays a com

Younger Generation.

mendable degree of . simplicity, which, none the less, however, keeps It from out the realm of dressy wraps. Viewed from the standpoint of practicability, it is equally suitable for school or for best wear. The back Is fashioned with a bias fold down the center, or with a similar seam should the goods not allow of the fold. The side yearns are widely gored, which brings Just the right amount of fulness to the front. Tucks In groups of three are stitched all the way down from neck to hem, and the double-breasted front fastening assumes the shape of a plastron by means of the reversing of the tucks. The sleeve is full leg-o'-mut-ton style, with the superfluous fulness laid In tucks on the wrist, and, a flat velvet inlaid collar and cuff and a touch of dressiness. Over the shoulders a little cape collar is laid, the scalloped edge making for a triile of elaboration In the finish. Good Style lor a Winter Wrap. There Is more than a suggestion of snug comfort to the woolen wrap of the Illustration. Designed especially to meet the needs of the small girl's playtimes, it is planned to come but to the shoetops, so affording protection to the little legs, and yet not offering any interference to her swiftness In running, or playing Front and back are cut with a deep yoke, that Is extended In plastron fashion to the hem, while on either side of this extension the pleats necessary to form fulness are introduced. Any of the modish cloakings will make up well after this design, and this season there is quite a fancy for reds, relieved with a little touch Just the slightest of black velvet and braid. AU the way from a brilliant scarlet into a deep Burgundy tint reds are liked for the little maid, and a more warm and cheerful coloring, becoming alike to blonde or brunette, could not be selected. The coat of the picture is In a deep rich wine red, the fiat collar that finishes the neck efforts are made to "harden" the little folks throats nowadays has a bias fold of velvet and a slightly waved band of gilt braid. So, also, the cuffs. .The large buttons that make the double-breasted fastening axe

duplicated In smaller sizes to trim the collar and cuff, and the hem is sufficiently deep to allow of letting down later. Plaid Materials and Plain Color Trimmlnsi. It Is the girl who has seen some dozen or so of summers that is about the hardest of all to dress prettily. She has grown so fast that the bebe frocks of the nursery look undignified upon her; ad the accepted misses styles are still a few years too old in expression for her to carry well. Here It is that the designers offer a clever compromise. The natural waistline of the gir is accentuated, rather than the hip line, as in the long French and the Russian blouse frocks. A very pretty Scotch plaid mohair one of the Mackenzie tartans that display a pleasing conglomeration of dark blue, dark green and 'a hairline or two of a more brilliant tint has a plain dark green broadcloth for trimming purposes. This plain material fashions the plastron, front, deftly strapped across with braid to simulate a mode of fastening, a somewhat deep belt, and a plain" pointed -cuff that, may readily be replaced with a new one when the exigencies of school life demand a renewal. Deep pleats in the shoulder seam, near the armseye, afford sufficient fulness to the body portion, while the sleeve is of very moderate dimensions, plain and finished with a stitched cuff. The skirt has a broad double boxpleat front and back, while the sides follow a circular shape. Faacy matalasse buttons are used for trimming, and those, like the braid. a" black.

Hamburg Cream. Stir together la a granite or earthenware pan the grated rind and Juice of two large lemons, one cupful of sugar and the well-beaten yolks of eight eggs. Set the pan in another one of boiling water and stir constantly for three minutes. Take from the fire and pour Into the well-beaten whites of the eggs, stirring slightly. Pile la a glass dish and serve cold.

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nexperience

So many things are taken for granted nowadays by those extremely educated writers and lecturers upon "Domestic Setence" most of them with a startling number of Initials nfter their written names, indicating goodness only knows how many scientific, or pseudo-scientific, degrees attained that the inexperienced housewife is often at a complete loss to understand what they are talking about, what it Is that they are trying to teach her, and usually all for the lack of a common household term and the substitution therefore of some scientific phrase or even Its Latin equivalent. "Domestic Economy" they call It In England, and this subject is attracting far more attention in the girls colleges over thnre than it used to do. Even the London University has taken on this department, w'th the especial .view to adding something strictly of practical every day use and application to the currlculuu for girl students, and the similar Institutions of learning on this side of the water ore beginning to look to their laurels In this wise. Many stories ore current, and most of them more pathetic than ridiculous from the housekeeper's point of view anent the college girl's views upon the problems of housekeeping. It is related that oue of the professors ct a famous college for girls undertook the home housekeeping during the long vacation when most of the family were absent. Borne guests coming unexpectedly to dinner one Sunday evening, the maid Informed the head of the house that there would not be sufficient bread to serve at dinner, and that, being Sunday, all of the bakeries were, of course, closed. "Oh, well, you must Just serve some toast, that's all," she comfortably replied, seemingly Ignorant or forgetful of the fact that It requires bread to make toasts Marie Antoinette's historic reply when they told her that the people of Paris were starving for bread: "Well, why don't they eat cake!" Is pretty much the answer that the average June bride, Just taking ' up housekeeping in September, might be expected to make. Many of the large, and, one might add incidentally, expensive, schools that cluster around New York and its suburbs are beginning to take up the domestic 6lde of the girl's education as a part of the regular curriculum. One of the better known of these is about to offer a post-graduate course in the domestic sciences. This Is rated at the same cost as the usual school year, in spite of tbe fact that the students are expected to put In a part of their time In the actual housekeeping work of the school. Hygiene, both personal and household: the care of furniture, cooking utensils, plumbing, the different nutritive values given foods and their combinations, the planning of a household and a housekeeping program on either a weekly or a monthly basis, the average cost of foods and foodstuffs, their preparation, ssrvants and their training, the proportion of Income to be devoted to each department of the household and other matters which will better fit the student to meet the cares and perplexities of housekeeping after graduation are all Included. And, apropos of thl3, it may be taken as a straw that indicates the course of the current that a magazine devoted to building Interests passed comment the other day upon the decline of the apartment hotel In building activities- 5iore housekeeping apartments hav been put up during the past six months, and some buildings that started out as apartment hotels have been turned into housekeeping Tats." The Instinct of woman is to want a heme and a household of her own, where her orders are supreme, her Ideas paramount and her will law. And if this borne can be but a living-room, a bedroom, a kitchen and a bathroom, it Is all the better for being "her home,. . However, to return to the other side of

A GOOD BETWEENSEASON WRAP.

For the first few cool days which schooltime Invariably brings some sort of a coat or wrap that will not prove unduly heavy and warm Is an Imperative necessity. Since adult fashions distinctly lean to length la wraps, those for the Juveniles follow suit. A design that will undoubtedly prove becoming to the majority of children, and- is well within tbe limits of the family seamstress skill, is shown herewith. The material la one of those coarse and slightly open Scotch plaids that provide warmth without weight, several shades of gray and a glint of green making the pattern. The coat is cut upon sacque lines, and added panel provide

a h ousekeeper. tbe matter, and that la tbe Ignorance, or, to phrase It more acceptably, the Inexperience, of the young housekeeper. She has made all sorts of rosy plana aa to how she will keep house. , Everything la to be perfection, from the arrangement of tbe rooms down to the "set" of the maid's caps and aprons. Such things aa Inefficient help, the annoyances of careless and dilatory tradesmen, the spasm of anxiety which the arrival of the unexpected guest frequently arouses, all of these are unknown terrors, and do not enter Into her calculations of things. And then the cook books, which she ponders and studies so earnestly, are tot always Intelligible, and the helps to young housekeepers seem to take It fot granted that she has already stocked her kitchen with all of the most approved and up-to-date requirements and aids tfl scientific housekeeping, without mentioning any of them as a list, but merely referring to such-a-thlng Incidentally when occasion offers. The advice of a peer of England, when addressing the graduating class in one of tbe many schools In England that fit out girls to become teachers of "Domestic Economy," might well be taken to heart by many of our writers upon the same subject. The learned lord who It seems has a keen sense of humor and an Intelligent appreciation of tbe practical application of things advised hia listeners never to use a word or a phrase either In speaking or In writing which tbe most ignorant in the audience could not folly understand. "Always address your remarks to tbe most ignorant one," he said, "aud then the more intelligent ones will not fall of understanding aa well. Make your language as simple as possible; your dlrjfotlous plain but terse, and never use a big word where a small one will do Just as well. Remember that sodium bicarbonate la an unknown quantity to your bearers, although entirely Intelligible to you, and that If you mention It as baking soda there will be no fear of mistake. I remember hearing a country clergyman, whose parish covered a vast area, teli u comical tale one time about one of his far-off parishioners. The good man's regular visit was due at a certain date, and on this occasion It fell to the lot of an elderly woman who had two daughters at boarding-school to entertain tbe pastor. Being simple, quiet country folk, with a very limited menage, the visit of the parson was quite an event, and many were the preparations made In This honor. Among others was the baking of an elaborate cake for Sunday evening's tea. Well, that cake was the queerest compound ts parson had ever swallowed. It tasted as though Rochelle Baits bad gone into lis composition In place of the usual sweetening. Not until his next visit, some six months later, did the secret come out. The recipe for the cake, clipped from one of the Innumerable young ladles' journals that England delights In, placed so much "soda bicarb. among the Ingredients. The good lady and her elderly cook puzzled over this to them there were but two kinds of soda, baking and washing and finally decided that it must mean washing soda, for If it meant baking soda, why. It would have said so! And so the washing soda was toilsomely ground up to a fine powder and distributed in generous quantity through the cake mixture as a leavening agent," If many of the writers and lecturers upon household science would but remember the days when they, too, were all too ignorant albeit willing o Ies.rn of the mysteries of housekeeping, and pat their observations Into simpler language, dismiss technicalities and aim their remarks at the most ignorant their audience wou'd discover many things the solution of which Is just now a problem and a mystery. for the necessary fulness, for all of the little maids' belongings display more of fulness in this season's skirts. A broad strap is brought from the bock panel over the shoulders and seemingly fastens to the front one with buttons and a fancy braid loop. The sleeve Is the regulationcoat affair, wtiile the 'velvet collar and cuff are decorated with rows of ecru soutache. When the sleeves of a coat grow too short as they oftentimes do all too soon In the game tbe velvet cuff so applied and a hint of a collar to match wlil often make the coat serviceable for a few months more of that season and put off the Inevitable purchase of a new one for lust that long.