Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 31, Number 202, 19 August 1906 — Page 8

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Jottings from Paris. Doings in Fashion Land - French Styles Contrasted With American - Economies Cleverly Masked by Seeming Extravagances.

Tho wearing of natural flowers, chiefly In BUiitU bouqueta upon tbe coat or corsage Is a fad tbat came north from tbe Utvlera lu tbe late spring aud early summer months. Fragrant flowers bare been most In favor, and of those tbe yellow tea rose bas easily held first place In tbe esteem of tbe fastidious. For one thlug, this same yellow tea rose Is not too common. It Is somewhat expensive compared with other blossoms and then yellow In ell Its tints aud nuances Is the fashionable color, par excellence, this year In Paris. It Is a blossom tbnt will harmonize well with every toilette, a point thut does not belong to other, and, perhaps, more favored blooms; and Its dellcute odor Is not too Insistent. Tbe wearing of a large bunch of lavender or of purple sweet peas with a mourning or a half mourning costume Is in high tfavor. The use of violets in tbls connection bns been much overdone; and Its flcathkncll was sounded when tbe wearing of artificial violets began to spread apace. Tbo sweet pens, In either tho light or the darker tint, accords well with either black, lavender or gray; while upon an nil white gown they present a little splotch of color contrust that cannot fall to be appreciated. The white sweet pea, too. Is not overlooked; and whether worn with or without a spray or two of greeu maidenhair fern, It Is most often the choice of the younger section of society. There Is an amount of simplicity to this dainty blossom that serves to commend It to those who dislike any display tbat savors even lu the slightest of osteutatlou. At the race meets where one goes to see the very latest thing lu gowns, wrap and accessories, displayed either by the haute monde. the deml-inoude, or by the shop assistants of some of the beet houses who have new Ideas that they wish to exploit a half blown peony was frequently seen as a corsage bouquet. Just why, one could not well figure out, for tbe flower itself Is ungaluly as to size, trjlng as to color, and absolutely lucking as to perfume. However, like so many other fads of fashion. It caught on to some extent; one well km wn woman going so far as to wear a leghorn chaneau wreathed with peonies, a large one au nature! on the corsage, and a buueh of the artificial blooms tied on thft top aud tho baudle of her parasol. , Gray "as been tremendously overdone, both In the tallorruade and tbe dressy type of gown; aud there Is u strong reaction all the more appnient since the arrival of the summer visiting American coutiugent against Its use lu almost auy connection. Oue well known bouse tbat Las sponsored perhaps more Innovations In fastiion than any other has had all of Its gray stock cloth, chiffon, gauze, silk uud velvet nnd trimmings of countless kinds dyed to other tones. The hydrangea shades ore In the very first flight of fashion! Hottenshi Is the pretty uaiue tbat the French bestow upon tbls delicately shaded flower; and the l.iues, pinks, anil the Indefinite inlugliugs of tho two shades that the blossom so characteristically displays are cleverly bundled in a great majority of the gowns for lawn, luncheon, dinner and garden party uses. There seems to bo do Indication of the wane of transparent or semi-transparent materials for dress purposes. The various novel weaves of voile known under many

names, but, substantially, all about the same are well to the forefront of things fashionable, but chiefly In silken wenvIngs. Exquisitely soft and lustrous silks chiffon double of a season or two ago, but with a more lustrous finish are right In the very first flight; and to their trimming all the Ingenuity that the designer can devise is brought. The material itself Is of such sheer quality that rather heavy trimming Is best posed upon It. There seems to be someone strenuously and devotedly pushing the cause of the American short skirt for Parisian wear. True enough it Is that the Parlslenne bas accepted this mode but under protest and for a very limited acceptance. Only for the roughest wear Is It donned, and It Is always doffed with a sigh of thankfulness. Too well does she know and appreciate the fact that the long nnd trnllink skirts become tier best; and since long walks are Indulged in only under doctor's orders, why make of herself a fright when there Is no necessity and substantially nothing to be gained by so doing? That Is about the spirit In which the short skirt Is received, and the horde of visiting Americans who so well display its many advantages are gazed at, and Its use at all hours of tbe day put down to a national tdlosyncracy.

The air of fine freu;y that dominated the chapeaux of the summer time Is delightfully lacking In those that are to i- her In the autumn months, and a much more rational, if less romantic appearance Is promised for the fashionable follower In the coming months. The bandeau Is assuming less 6trenuous proportions, the angle at which the hat Is tilted Is less tipsy, and the coiffure demanded by the later modes pron, not to demand all of the extraneous aids which the hats of the season nearly passed proved so unbecoming without. The corselet skirt seems to have made Its parting bow to the fashionable world. At its best it required a degree of skill and cutting, and a still greater one In fitting than could readily be commanded by the average purse. Then, too, unless It reached just the proportionate point between the bust aud the waistline, which made the best of Its wearer's possibilities the result was anything but a happy one. The nil too stout woman she Is happily wel!-nlgh nonexistent In France, at least among the natives and the painfully sleuder woman boia seemed to descry qualities In this mode to suit their special peculiarities of build and figure, and with what effect tbe speedy relegation of this mode to the limbo of things forgotten would seem to ludlcate. The chapeaa with a moderate crown and a fluted or undulated brim, high at one side and short and close at the b:.i, Is attracting considerable attention -t such of the milliners as make a special display for the visiting American buye-. Already it is developed In felt. and. strange to say, flowers are the favored trimmings. Velvet roses, sweetpeas, morning glories they are receiving an enthusiastic amount of attention Just now nastartlums, geraniums and other gay blossoms go to the trimming of those shapes, and the needed note of character Is added la a bird of paradise, a long Australian plume or some other Coating and waving feathery effect.

Novel Shapes and Smart Trimmings Greet the Eye - Large and Small Chapeaux Equally Well Thought Of-Feathers in Many Kinds and Construction - Colors and Trimming Schemes.

A trip to town in these latter days of tbe waning summer season is sure to result lu the purchase of one or more cliapeat:x. Compared with the new and novel examples that are freely displayed In the windows of one's favorite shops, the headgear of the summertime looks wofuily faded and out of place. Indeed, a 20 minute stroll along the avenue and a passing glance Into the 6hop windows Is sure to put any woman out of conceit with her own appearance, and it Is only by resolutely shutting her eyes to the shops nnd turning her glance upon her fellow-creatures lu the crowd that one can be at all cousoled for the general worn and faded look which even tho best of summer costumes are wont to assume at just this juncture. "The large bats are. If possible, more than a trlile larger than before, while the same Is positively true, in Inverse ratio, of the small shapes. Large, larger, largest; and small, smaller, smallest, conjugates the millinery situation at this moment; and It Is the superlative degree in each that Is most favored." Thus spake a famous milliner. Just back with her cherished "pattern hats" from Paris. Wise In her day aud generation, she put lu the earlier part of the season lu visiting the different resorts aloug the coast, and so got to be thoroughly posted ns to what the great ones of Faris had made up for favored customers late In tbe summer season. With those well defined In her mind's eye. there was uo fear that she could be taken In with duplicates of such, made up lu autumn nnd oftentimes lu winter materials, and shown to the vlsltiug trade of America as "the dernier cri, the very latest thing that has been conreived and created for the American woman:" Not at all! She knew her ground, aud could tell the difference at a glance. lu the small hats there are some charming subjects that clearly approach the Charlotte Corday models of a few seasons ago. Of course, as might be expected, while it Is transparently reminiscent of this design, it is in the differences rather than in the resemblance that its chic is to be found. The same soft and spreading crown and the downturned brim are manipulated after a new design, so that It only to those who keep close track of the vagaries of fashion i iat the resemblance presents Itself strongly. Of the large hats. It Is the size, shape The First of the The latter part of August usually introduces the first of the felt chapeaux. tbe Initial display of those fascinating shapes which the world feminine will disport a few weeks later on. Those who are wise in their day and generation when the time comes to discard the faded headgear of the brilliant summer time, will adopt those later manifestations ia felt rather than renew hats which glorified the burning days of June and July. For use with the shirtwaist suit or with the tailor-made the model thar forms the subject of Illustration is one that will commend itself to the fastidious dresser. Of a shape that will prove almost universally becoming and presented lu a host of novel tints and nuances of the mode Its very simplicity is one of its best recommendations to the fashion wise. Fashioned somewhat upon sailor lines, the presence of a bandeau In the back and the lifting of the brim sharply to the crown at the left side makes for some 1 variation la a mode that has threatened

and position of the bandean that largely determine their genre. A front brim that projects becomingly, a side that Is sharply lifted and a back that sets closely to the head In marked contradistinction to the shapes of the summertime, in which an altogether superfluous width of black brim mads the bat seem posed wrong side front, distinguishes tbe later shapes from their predecessors. The so-called picture shapes overworked and altogether hackneyed description, but none other so expressive seems to present itself are making themselves quite conspicuous, especially In bridesmaids' hats for the ceremonies that may be considered the logical outcome of summer and vacation times. Ostrich feathers nnd mallnes reign supreme for those occasions, while velvet. In some one or another of its many novel manifestations, Is relied upon to cover the wire frame that seems to be the sine qua non of tho milliner's workroom. The tailored hats, designed t be the logical accompaniment of the wooltex tailormade gowu, are very ciuch ta the front Just now. Indeed, they seem to fill in better than any other that betweeu and betwixt time known in France as the demi-saison, or half season, to give It a literal interpretation. Those that reigned In the summertime were most of them models of inspired ugliness, hard euough for the radiant beauty to carry off successfully, and utterly Impossible for the girl with but an average amount of good looks to commend her. Tb effort to produce something at once distinctive, original and altogether at variance with the current models and yet well within the limits prescribed at the moment by Lame Fashion, usually resulted In something that was neither fish, fesh nor decent red herring, so far as : - becomlngness was concerned. The new arrivals, however, are far more rational In shape and appearance than might have been expected from those offered by the same designers in the early summer. The sailor hat Is undeniably the source and fount of Inspiration, and the changes are rung on the flat-brimmed, the saucer-brimmed, high crown, low crown, bandeau and no bandeau, until there Is at least a goodly variety to the Una. Smart little turbans, whose greatest proportions are (rom front to back and as narrow In shape as the torpedo, are back again. Caroline Reboux introduced this model some three or four seasons ago under the title of the Glengarry turban Felt Chapeaux. to become somewhat more than monotonous. As presented It Is In a light shade of cafe-au-lait felt more milk than coffee, though and simply, almost severely, trimmed with a cream-white satin chiffon ribbon. The bow points distinctly toward tbe back, the bandeau is J covered with closely crushed loops of the i same ribbon and a stiff buckram buckle I shape is covered with the black and white striped broadcloth that Is so effectively j used for collar and cuffs upon the tailor- ; made that accompanies tbe hat. j The tesgown Is but one of the Parlslenne's many economies that pose and parade as extravagances. In reality the Parisienne. no matter what her status in the social world may be. Is never on view in the morning. Then It is that she manages her household, adjusts tbe machinery, sees to repairs and Improvements, bangs the curtains, looks over tbe table and the household linen It Is no uncenawn Ym.2 to find ev:a dishcloths

It Is not at all unlike a Glengarry cap done In straw but somehow It did not seem to take. Just at that period the overhanging pompadour was rampant on this side of the Atlantic the Parlslenne has never adopted the extremes In this coiffure that we over here have not only countenanced, but even adopted and the very small hat did assuredly look silly topping a headdress that was made to stand out for several Inches all around the face. Now, however, that the mode In coiffure bas been materially lessened, there seems to be a wide field for acceptance In this smart or pert little cbapean. The Incoming models In this are made In all sorts of effects. Tbe best ones are In fine Milan and other straws, and, save for a band of velvet along the brim, two or three long ostrich plumes are the sole decoration. In the felt and cloth braids that are woven lDto Intricate patterns tbe same mode of garniture Is adopted, except with this one difference. Where the hat Is Intended for general or everyday wear the place of the ostrich plumes Is taken by some one or another of the many feathered effects that are current on the market Just now. And apropos of feathers, the attention of the Audubon society banded together to prevent the slaughter of birds for millinery purposes Is not required to this season's models. No bird that ever flew bore such wings, breasts and feathers as arranged In the milliner's showcases at present That they are all of barnyard origin Is stated for a fact with the almost Inappreciable exception of those game birds that are served at table, pheasant, grouse, partridge, ptarmigan, etc. and it Is a further fact that there are more "hands" than ever employed In the feather factories, to dye, bleach, mount and paste those effective things that are sold as wings, quills, breasts, birds, etc. Audubon himself would be mightily puzzled to classify most of the pieces sold today either as to color, size, breed or habitation. So the tender-hearted woman may order chapeaux trimmed with feathers and feathered effects galore without in the least Imagining tbat any creature has been robbed that she may make herself smart to the eye. It Is the prosaic hen and chicken of the barnyard and afterwards the dining table that has shed feathers enough to make np those extremely 6mart and becoming pieces that the milliner uses so effectively.

well darned in a French household and performs many household tasks either with or without the assistance of her servants which we Americans would relegate to outside aid and cheerful'y pay the resulting hill. Snrh Ihlncra s thnso ire what the Parisienne housekeeper prides herself particularly upon: and

i rom oer Housekeeping allowance sne Das Just so much more to spend upon dress. The colored umbrella has completely eclipsed the funeral-looking black affair which we have hoisted for protection against the rain, for lo! these many, many years. Like so many other items of the toilette, this last accessory is supposed to match the costume In color, and really pretty ones, guaranteed -ot to let tbe color run or drip off when wet, are shown in aP of the fawn, ficelle and La a shades, those pretty blues, all of the new greens and browns, as well at Id changeable or shot silks that are really most attractive. Tbe bandies to all of those srs conspicuously long, the length broken by a band of metal, a ribbon chou or elmpie cord aad tassel half-way down. I

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Modern Millinery Marvels The Extreme in Large and Small Styles- Velvet Particularly in Evidence and Woven Braid Attains Prominence.

Velvet With WIuki. The attention of the Audubon Society, with, its worthy object of discouraging the slaughter of birds for millinery purposes, may be relaxed this season; at any rate. So far us llie fashion of wearing feathers in many sorts and shapes upon tbe new hats Is concerned. Shapes and sizes of wings such as never grew upon any bird that Uew are what the designers are using mostly, and that In colors which Audubon himself would fall to classify as belonging In even the remotest connection to tlie feathery tribes. The feathers and feather effects most In use today find their origin In the barnyard, and the number of "bands" required to make up the pieces that figure in millinery catalogues is muchly on the increase. Examination will prove that' most of the so-called wings, birds, breasts, etc., are all of them pasted upon a net or muslin foundation, well wired, so that they may tie bent to any shape or angle that cu price may suggest or fashion dictate. The pretty and becoming shape Illustrated is In a medium shade of brown, with the side smartly turned up and a set of those artificial "wings" cleverly disposed for trimming effect. One large piece Is so managed that 1 covers the low drum-shaped crown and almost the entire brim In front, the pin feathers extending well toward the back. The upturned side is faed with a similar effect, while the bondeau is riffled with a mass of filmy whlie mallnette, this making for the combination of brown and white that Is so effective and so fashionable this season. Tbe Roand Tnrbnn la Modish. Those fancy mixed braids of which the modern milliner makes such effective and so many uses are turned to good account In this novel little shape, one which displays well the recent tendency of fashionable bats to maintain even smaller lines than the summer inodelJ introduced, a mrge crown tuat stcourfortably to the shape of the heed and i narrow rolling brim that strongly suggests a sailor 6hape are the coiajionent features. A moderately 6lzed bandeau that is. It Is moderate compared with some of those noted recently Is tucked in at the back to give the chapeau that smart and becoming tilt over tbe forehead which proves so welcome to thoso of regnlor features. The outer edge of the brim Is bound with a bias velvet band, under whlrb the shaping wire is concealed; and this same velvet reappears in the cravat of ribbon that encircles the crown, making an edging to it both top and bottom. The nobon displays two shades of hydrangea blue. mii.Ui3g a pretty contrast to the dark gr?eu of the velvet and felt bra'.d. while the trimming feathers are of a soft grayIsii phade of fawn, with marabout in while, tipped In gray, applied on each feather. Quite a little marabout is tucked in among the fibboii loops that trim the baok bec-dtiu, aod lend a iUcht and airy effect to an otUerwia plain trimming In Dressier Style. For some of the prettiest and the most original sfyles In the corning autumn miiihrery. the chief dependence will U placed on tLe wire frame, the part that is not seen, bet which it is that determines the cilc and allure of the chapeau. Such Is the case with the extremely pretty example pictured. From outward appearances it seems as though tbe round plateau of oyster white felt had been

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pushed Into pe with a couple of bat pins, and tin Huffy oatrlch tips applied at random. Far otherwise la It la reality, as the milliner's apprentice could eloquently tell. Tbfe wiro frame la mad after the usual fashion, the crown being edged witb Just tbe straight strips tbat will best support the flexible felt tbat covers the shape. A bandeau la run In all aronnd, steepest at the left alda, where the flat felt plateau It pleated Into an upstanding flare. . Projecting aboot equally far back and front, tbe ebapa sets closely to tho coiffure at tbo points, being wired to turn down slightly. Four ostrich tips in brown are posed at the left side, those In the back a trifle longer than the others, so tbat they rest prettily on the balr. A bunch of browa velvet roses, with shaded foliage, likewise in velvet, balances the shape at tbe right sldo and adds a pretty toucb of color to the whole. Extremely Small Ilnta Are Mac la la Voarae. Tbe large bats seem to grow tarter, while the email bats recede almost to tba vanishing point, Is tbe way tbat one millinery expert sums up tbe new aeaaon'i models. Anything much smaller tbat could still claim to be Included In tbe beadwear catalogue could hardly be devised than tbe example of a tailored ebapcau that Is pictured herewith. Felt, chenille and velvet are Interwoven In tba braid, of which It la fashioned, tbe foundation being the usual wire frame tbat determines tbe size, shape and limitations of the ordinary cbapeao. One hardly knows whether to classify tbe result as a turban or a sailor. There la a round crown, a brim that flares a trifle In tbe back to shrink to almost nothing lo tbe front, and a steep bandean that gives It the sauciest tilt over the forehead Imagleable. Tbe braids are In brown, one of tbe dark shades that approach oearer to tbe earth browns than to the eeaL tints. On this tbere Is a bow of tarqiTorfe bine velvet, fashioned from the piece rather than the ribbon weave, with tbe nps landing "ears" well wired to bold their shape and position. A broad grouse's wing Is cleverly posed at the left side, so tbas it covers the entire brim at that point and a part of the crown as well, wblle the back Is filled In with pate bice velvet and brown mallnette, cleverly mixed to a frothy result. The Sew Pb" Turban. The small turban -JiTaTgted for a mofK successful inning In tbe things tbat ure scheduled for autumn happenings. Tba pictured model Is one that will undoubtedly receive accept&ace at tbe bands of the fastidious being conspicuously original and yet well within the limits of tbe mode, fiere. as elsewhere, the limits of tbm felt shape have to be assisted with wiring. The crown Is flat, but of anfflcient size to accommodate the coiffure generously. The brim Is bent downwards after tbe mushroom style all aronnd; the back lifting quite a little to display tbe bandeau trimming of velvet. A brilliantly finished mlrolr chiffon velvet Is used for trimming, carelessly folded around tbe crown and shirred and folded Into Innumerable crushed loops all across the back of the bat. A striped round buckle Is posed at the left side, and seems to hold the group of shaded vulture feathers that flaunt their length over the back of the cbapeau. Those vulture feathers are logical successors to the peacock plumes that held sway during the earlier rt of the season,