Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 31, Number 188, 5 August 1906 — Page 10

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Some Novel SlioTrlnpr In the Fhlon World The Helslit of the Season HrlttK" New Fnda and Fan r lea Newport Qatherlnffa Dlnplur he Latest From Paris Trifles That Tell Neck Dressings V u m e Macli Importance The Celntare Floarlsbes The AVearlnK of Veils la nn Art ( luirmliitf I.Ktle Additions to the Toilette. The prnthorlnfj of the clnna la rarojy coniilito nt Newport until about tbe flrst voi'k In August. True, there Brc runny f;iinlll(s who open up their cottnges at thU clty-liy-the-sen us enrly as Mny, hut tlny urn usunlly the staid oljtlmers, anil are not nt all In or of thnt spectneulur coterie who set the fashions for the others to follow. The tide of life and the rush of frivolity nttaln their maddest whirl during Ausutt, und the lendera In Newport ao--lHy usually lliiRer lu Tiirls until after the Cirand l'rlx Is run, lu order to obtain the very latest thliiR the dernier crl that fashion has to offer after this event. Many of the clever dressmakers of New York di not go to Europe aftor new luodoU und Ideas until they bnve first spent a week or two. nt Newport, ncyualntlnjr themselves thoroughly with what the leaders f fashion are wearing " -e, and then set sail for Paris, knowing full well that they cannot be taken in with any models, gqwns or designs that liuvu already doue duty on this Blda of the water. Many of the social set ore dressed altogether by one l'arlslan house, getting Ktreet costumes, golf suits, ten gowns, dinner mid ball toilettes all from the Bame maker, nnd lu this way Insuring a cachet und on understanding of their own possibilities that Is hardly to bo nttalued lu any other way. Oue woman Is faithful to Callot Steurs, a firm, by the way, that has an American actress for a silent although a very active partner. Another places all of her faith upon a new star lu the sartorial world to wit, Taveruler, a woman who can do more with talTetns, soft satins aud chiffons than any other seems to bo able to accomplish Just now. l'mjnln, who is, perhaps, one of the mast quoted of the Parisian crenteurs do la mode. Is really at bis most fascinating best when manipulating laces, chlffous und such like ulmy stuff. Ills tailormades are likely to display a trifle too much stiffness to be acceptable to the American mondalne, although they suit the fashionable F.ugltsh woman to perfection. IVrdouz, Beer, lAferrlere, Houff, tJlnrdot and Doeulllet are names to conjure with when frilly and dressy gowns ure the topic; while It whuff, David, Francis, 1 " mil La lire, Ernest and Uaudnttl are able to combine broadcloth aud chiffon, tulle nnd lace and heavy furs to a perfectlou that Is nothing short ot marvelous. Hut after one has ordered nil of the gowns that are desired from those great houses there are still those countless little nothlugs that ore Imperative, If the toilette Is to be complete, accordlug to the latest mandates of the mode. First and foremost this season, no twitter wluit the style of chapesu woru for outdoors, n tennis or golf hat, a tailored turban, a plumed cavalier shape for the carriage or a close-tHtlng toque for the motor car, the veil or, to speuk more correctly, tlio veils are a mutter of the utuiet Importance. The face veil Is displayed In a multitude of colors and lu a variety of designs that will penult the utmost latitude lu selection. The fad for having the volette match the hat In coloring is not always 11 happy one, since a tint worn above the f;ue may be extremely becoming, while that same tint stretched close to the sklu luay prove deadening to a degree. This Is exemplified well In the smart pluk. pale blue and rather vivid green hats that are In hU"h favor for wear with white toilettes. Those shades ure seldom or i.-er becoming close to the skin, and it Is only the Intervention of the hair between the hat and the face that makes them at nil possible. Veilings In those colors, though, are a huge success from the retail merchant's point of view, -al-though to the lookeron In Vienna the results of such purchases furnish food for thonul-t und oftentimes material for u Jer.'u hul. Such mi! ns those are like the little girl who had the Utile curl when they ure good they ure very, very good; aud when they're bad, they are horrid. Chenille dots, velvet pastilles of severnl hpes uud sizes, and even little lozenges nf silk nre applied to rather loose and opeu meshed ells, l'lnld patterns In the inoh nre becoming quite modish, and several colorings are oftentimes seen lu a single weave. Oue must be very careful In purchasing those novel weaves, for whlltf they may, and often do, look l,i)nt Uut Imjm 1a

the shop, It Is quite another Vhlng when they nre fastened on the bnt; nnd since veils nre Invariably sold without the privilege of rc'turiiliifr, nn unbecoming veil is, therefore, n lowing transaction from more than one point of view. The made veils that attracted bo mneh attention nt the opening of the season show uo signs of a waning vogue, in spite of the fact thnt they nre distinctly nglng In effect". Worn by even the roost frivolous debutante, they Impart a serlons nnd settled nlr, nnd unless they are adjusted to the last degree of smartness they confer nn appearance of dowdlliess thnt' Is devoutly to be uvolded. The later departures In those now have the ribbon frill stltlly pleated all around the edge, nnd a vermicelli pattern Is occasionally seen wrought In those tiny shaded ribbons iliat nre nnrrower even than the-bebe widths that are so liberally used for lingerie purposes. The to;tr dp cou, or boa. Is one of the fixed features of fashion this season. One sees It in all sorts of materials, many shnpes nnd several sizes. Th short, half-yard lengVh of inallnette or mousseline de sole, liberally box pleated, and finished with a shower of ribbon loops or ends. Is such a popular Item that It attracts little or no nttention. The Intt'er ones are made of the gnuxe or grenadine ribbons, tacked In countless loops, each with a smart llt'tle knot in the middle of the loop, nnd sewed firmly to a slightly rounded foundation. For the elderly lady If there be such ns will acknowledge the title In these days of the girlish grandmother there are some smart little cape shnpes that are really some protection to the shoulders when driving. Shirred ribbons, of the sheerest variety, are used for those, the foundation usually having n haircloth Interlining to nfford n graceful outline to the daluty trltle. The cplmtire. snsh. belt or girdle or whatever one chooses to call It, nourishes mightily In these days In spite of the popularity of the corselet and prlncesse dresses. The continued vogue of the separate blouse aids much In itils, nnd many of the best makers abroad nre still clinging to the separate bodice and skirt style, with a smart cetnture as a finish for the cosVtime. Ulbbon belts nre very much to the fore, and almost every shape and sire Is equally modish. Shlrrlnirs, usually made In conjunction with tiny pin tucks, nre still n marked feature, nnd strips of fentherbone, or else one of the readymade feaiherbone frames, makes the foundation nnd determines the shape. The hand embroidered belt Is not by nny means confined to linen nnd lingerie materials. One sees It In silk nnd In velvet this latter In both the ribbon nnd the pieee weaves and In cloth to match the gown. All of the popular modes of embroidery are so exploited, eyelet nnd pierced work, solid raised work ef the kind that Is known ns blind embroidery, luce stitches, nnd even the insertion of fancy medallions. The new brr.lds that are scheduled for autumn uses me delightful fabrics whereou to display one's sl;i!l with the embroidery needle. A stunning example was noted the other day lu conjunction with a smart blue serge gown that spok Paris In Us every Hue and fold. There was a short bolero and a plain skirt, and the belt was of black braid, broad, nnd with the queer-looking letters of the Chinese nlphabet embroidered In dull scarlet, dull blue, sage green and brown, each piece defined with a couching of gold thread all the way around. The work was heavily padded underneath, so that each stitch stood out boldly aud Mwil ua ta Um vl tu.rmrmt, culctLni&aia.

Causerie de la Mode. "You never cri tell Just what the dear public will take up and make a fad of," sighed the little milliner, "nnd when it comes to the pnblic feminine, you are guessing harder than you ever guessed before. "Now, take the hats of this senson, for example. At the start we were told thnt the hats were all to match the colors of the gowns; and everybody knows that the season started out with a perfect riot of colors. Feothers, ribbons, flowers, aigrettes, straws and braids were nil In what one might term subdued tints of brilliant colors. The workrooms made up pale blue, pinks of various hues, lilacs aud lavenders, severnl greens nnd not a few browns, with the uunl sprinkling of blacks nnd whites; but they were thrown in for the chance rather than for the steady customer. "And how has It turned out? Well, look here:" And she threw up the plateglass front of her showcase. Hats of all sorts, shapes and sizes. In all the hues of the rainbow, were perched alluringly on their stands. The old-time customer murmured something to the effect that thev were so chic, so smart and that she suppo-ged they were made up for the stranger that flocks so liberally within o.. gates during July nnd August "Not by any means." responded the milliner. "Not at all. They are the hats that were made tip several weeks ago after the very best French models; and somehow or another here they seem destined to stay. All of the women this season are ordering black, white or burnt leghorn straws, with a trimming planned to go with as many gowns In their wardrobes as possible. Our workroom has been filled right along with orders for those, and for those only. We have not sold a colored hat for so long that I can hardly remember who It was that ordered it. "Of course, my customers that summer at Newport. Narrngansett, Har Harbor nnd other seashore resorts have learned from experience that the chapeau of delicately tinted straw would prove an-idle extravagance at such places. The combined efforts of the sun and the salty nir would bleach them out In do time at nil; and Instead of havlug a number of clmpeaux, each to wear with Just one glveu gown. In n few days they fonnd that they had no hats at all worth wearing. Two or three outings, and the hat looked ns tired and forlorn as though It had performed a hard season's service." "However, our Southern consfns who flock iuto New York at this time of year nnd purchase liberally i . cn arrival and before leavlug, will clear this entire case out ere 1 start for Paris. You see, the weather at home Is favorable to their wearing summer finery much longer than It Is here: and the fact thnt they can obtain the very cream of the styles for end-of-the-season prices is nn Inducement to them to purchase liberally. Oh, I don't expect to lose on my colored chapenux after all. Tl3ey will be sold, everyone of them, and at a good price, too. "I am making op the most fascinating boas and little muffs yes, little muffs are nil the rage In Paris Just cow chiefly in chiffon and inallnette, and tbey arc to be trimmed en suite with artificial Cowers and velvet ribbons. Of course, there Is no down 'bed' or lining to tbe muff.

Like the boa. there Is simply a foundation of featherweight haircloth, that new kind with the lineu warp that Is no heavier than silk, nnd that never loses Its shape. "For afternoon ose, either driving, motorlug or even afoot, a plain and simple little frock will be transformed into quite a formal costume by a smart chapeau, tour de cou and muff, all In the same shade as the frock Itself. There's where I win oat!" And the clever Uttle mtllltxor Bmiled a saiUe of satisfied content.

Bilk' ' ' Kfm

Description of NevrVoilette an Vent tor Wind Veil) There Is no smarter finishing touch to the outdoor toilette thau one of the new luce veils the real lace wherever possible deftly adjusted, not only to the 6lre nnd shape of the hat, but to the contour of the wearer's features as well. Those vollettes an vent, or wind veils, as the Parlslennes term them, nre nbs lut"ly Indispensable with the later type of bnt thnt the second wind, so to speak, of the summer's fashions has brought forth. Chantilly lace Is in the very first filght of fashion, aud after that the Spanish laces are lu vogue. Net laces of several kinds nre offered, and extremely daluty and becoming patterns are shown in those at a very reasonable sum. Lterre, Bruges. Brussels, ilouiton aud several of the applique laces will prove an exceedingly god Investment, as their use in other departments of dress will be suggested, after this little wind veil fad becomes passe. The simplest mode of adjustment Is to shir the ell to a very fine and narrow elastic band, so that It may fit each and every hat equally well. The matter of disposing of the superfluous length lu the back is of Individual preference, and the coi?Ture, the shape of tbe hat, the head and features, nnd the height of the wearer must all be taken Into due consideration. As pictured, tbe mode will suit all but an extremely sleuder cast of countenance, for which a closer and smaller outline would be susgested. Those Graceful Syrian Scarfs. The fad for those smart scarfs, with their myriad nnd Infinitesimal pieces f metal clamred into the silken net, so that an Intricate pattern is formed. Is one that Is destined to last for quite sometime. In the first place, the metal trimming of the scarf Is one that machinery so far has not been able to duplicate, and bsodwork of this small and fine kind Is necessarily slow and. therefore, expensive. While they come chlefiy

f -Hflffri'TMiii IllustratiQns. In a black background with either gold their myriad and Infintlslmal pieces of or silver metalwork, occasionally one sees a brown, a dark green or a rich fhnd of red osed, but those are principally In the larger sizes, and are correspondingly higher In price. Quite an effective use is pictured herewith as a head nnd shoulder drapery with on evening decolletage. The first touch of the metal against the flesh Is likely to be colli, but this Is by no means nn objection in boiling August weather. Two aud a half to three yards long Is the usual size, and this is large enough to permit of a soft and effective drapery. One end tossed over the coiffure and the other carelessly swirled around the shoulders Is the usual fashion, but every fclrl can Invent a new one all for herself, and have the Joy of setting a new fad or a novel style. Ten or twelve dollars is the lowest price that those sc.irfs ere to be found at, and there seems to be little possibility of their reaching the marked-down bargain counters, and thereby becoming so popular that their vogue may be spoiled for tbe exciui-lves who care not what price within a certain limit, bien entendu they pay. so that their possessions shall cIeptabucerUlSar'ZeU lf tCO PPular The Fetching Doable Veil. There are fads and rashlons fn veils and veilings as In all else. The mesU and color, the size and design of the pattern, the mode aud method of their wearing, all of those Items have considerable to do with their continued or abandoned vogue. One of the prettiest of tbe present :ds Is depicted In the two relia that are pictured, worn with a tailored straw turban. Although especially selected for wear in this particular connection, the choice Is one equally well eulted to a dressier type of chapeau. Tbe undervell Is one of "the Dew meshes, "spider web," as tbe trade terms them, and well does the title define the extremely fine acd sheer silken thread The dots are la chenille, and so worked

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into the mesh that they are equally prominent on both sides. Three size dots ore used, so that the pattern is weli scattered over the surface. The draped veil Is a very recent novelty, and one that Is bound to meet with acceptance from a critical class of wearers. This Is In a dark brown chiffon, warp printed, with a design of pule yellow and pale pluk roses, the stems and foliage being In a faint dull shade of green, and nil the coloiing harmonizing beautifully wltn the brown ground. A stiff brown satin ilbbou I J bemst itched nil around ns a finish, this being of a Kiitllclent weight to afford some stability to the filmy veil nnd assists mightily In Its draping possibilities. ,rter Additions to the Toilette. The mode chances so frequently nnd so subtly in all of those little minor belongings of the toilette that it behooves the up-to-date woman to use her eyes and her Judgment when making a tour of the shops. Holts nnd neck dressings seem to put forth new and alluring devices every day ; and with the filmy frocks of tbe summertime It would seem ns tho'igh a superfiulty of those dainty fixings were Impossible. A really serviceable device Is thnt smart little tour de cou, or neck piece that tops the Illustration. For seashore or yachting use, for mountain or meadowiand. it Is altogether unaffected by the vagaries of the wenther. The gauze ribbons of which It Is made withstand any amount of dampness without wilting In the least, nnd so it is always fresh, unerumpled and up to the moment In nppearance whenever wanted. There Is a slightly shaped foundation of broad satin ribbon beneath, and then the gauze ribbons are applied In loops, each loop knotted In the center and tacked flown firmly. Effective knots of black velvet ribbon are tucked In at Intervals along the center, and the long floating ends are finished with a little single bowknot that serves to weight them slightly. The celnture is one of those expensive gauze brocades or grenadine ribbons that are fast coming into favor for many purposes. Tbe shirred tucks that mark the center It may be worn with the buckle fastening either :n the front or the back, as caprice may suggest are flrm!y stitched to featherbone support, and the hooks and eyes that make the fastening are likewise attached to stiff rods of the same material. Both pieces ore such as Gleaned by Few people realize the woes of tie petite woman, woes that are made all too strenuous to be Iwrne with p-itience and without tears, when the matter of readymade costumes comes to be considered. She has been accustomed to be considered, if not actually called, a "sweet little thing," and to be so spoiled that she has come to consider the world a place ma'Ie with epecial reference to her liiea and dislikes and manufactured with a view to meeting ter w'-lms and convenience. Well, ber awakening day comes when she tries to purchase a Eu!t or a dress all ready to wear, as the 'iitest catalogues bave It. Everything Is too long for fcT. The sleeves come way down aod bide even her finger tips. The waistline Is somewhere hs.f way down ber hips, and the skirt trails forlornly on the fio r. The fitter Is sent for, and she announces that tbe cost of alterations would be more than equivalent to tbe cost ot making, for, you see." she says, "there's not only every seam to be sewed over nnd finished, bat It has to be ail ripped epart first, and that takes time." Then the little woman tries tbe misses' department. Here, perhaps, she finds a skirt thnt will fit. but the coat is too narrow l.i the shoulders and too tight In the armbole. And as for its meeting across

any girl with the slightest ability wit! the ueinlle may fashion for herself, anc

that without nn undue expenditure o; either time or money. For the effectlr and stylish neck piece at least a half t dozen bolts of No. 4 gauze rlbbou wlb be needed and two bolts of the velvet weave. The one pictured took two bolt of gauze, while a single yard of the bro! caded grenadine ribbon made the smut cetnture. Garnttnre (or the Hotel Dance. What with the low Dutch, or the St Cecelia neck, as some prefer to term ItJ and the omnipresent short sleeve, there i but little to distinguish the anytime froc from the dancing toilette of the demol selle who is still in the schoolroom. Ilerl Is where the clever touches which ribbon! afford in such chnrnilng variety mag be relied upon to add Just that Dots o distinction to the little lingerie frock thai does duty on many an afternoon anJ make It fit to npiear In .ne glare of elecj trie lights that deck the ballroom or casl1 no. I Tbe essentially simple but none the lest chic llttlo frock that Is pictured In onj of those examples of costly gowning tba? the daughters of the wealthy parttctflurl affect this season. The material Is linen batiste the kind used for th sheerest handkerchiefs thnt are made Upon this a set and conventional deslg In convent work a kind that combine both the flat nnd pierced eyelets with modicum of blind and raised work t; set It off Is worked. The skirt dli: plays strips so placed thut couvenlcff may urr riiiiiiy ru, null m utr flounce applied somewhere below th knee lines, according to the height of ta wearer. The little bebo bodice Is en broldered all over, and there are Btrolgb ruftle lengths thnt are adjusted by mean of slilrrlng strings to assume the line of berthe and sleeve. The rtblions, ho' ever, are made to bring this dainty lltt example Into the realm of dancing frock There Is a broad sash In white llbert satin, thin nnd sheer and cool looking This Is made Into a girdle, tbe eiid crossing In front ana brought up intj two roaettes Just below the bust, one o?j either side. At the back there Is a sass with a rosette bow aud three long entff of irregular depth, as well as a bow ft the bolr. Into oil of those Items en tiicruted there nre tucked the prettlee; and Caintlest of bunches of French tnotS rosebjds; the artificial kind. They nt pear lu the girdle rosette, nre tuck Into the ends of the ensh ribbon an are pinned Into the coronet braid wit whlc mademoiselle finishes her colffur Anything more suited to the openln bud of a girl could hardly be Imagine and yet It has the merit of being hot Inexpensive and delightfully practical. SnHTKestlnK Several Fads. Originally made for Barah Bornbardtthe divine Snrah, as she Is still called this model of a French corsoge has be copied for one of our American sctresse who particularly affects the Bernhan style of dress. There are several of tt latter features of fashion cleverly Ineo porated In this single model, which ca not full to commend itself to the follow of fashion. The line presented Is distinctly ne and It Is In the manner of achievemei rather than anything else that the do! elty Is attulned. There Is the usual seamii and boned lining, which fastens In tl back. Over this the silk Is laid, tbe sbl ring down the front, the center back at the sides being accomplished over tit featherboned cords, which preserve tl curve of the outline beautifully. The ct lar and yoke are of double rnoosseltne i sole, the yoke being overlaid with site nate appliques of an oppenzall lace at Itlchelleu plaltlngs, while the elabora' cuff upon the short puff sleeve repea this same effect. The lower part of tl sleeve consists of bandings of the la and the hair-striped taffetas of which tl corsage Is made. Tbe sleeve Is quite full puff, and there are ruffles of a feat erwelgbt haircloth posed on tbe lining o derneath to hold tbe puff softly out. Tl lace Is applied In a fanciful manner ' simulate a girdle effect, the boned bodb being worn over the skirt and ending a sharp point both at the back and fron The little fan Is one of those marveloo ly delicate Ivory carvings, with a mom of embroidered aud spangled silk Ins between tbe Ivory sticks and the carvt tips, and constitutes one of those all trlfiei that are used more for chow tht for effect. the Wayside. the chest well, thnt would be a rlc Impossibility. The saleswoman wbtf'wal upon ber patronizingly explains that tl fault la not la the costunie but due to b peculiarities of size, nnd descatits length wherein she departs from wbat 8 termed "stock" or "standard" measur nu-iits. i Home shops to the number of a dozen so are tried, each one more hopeless than the last; and when the weary Ju ney Is over tbe short woman Is likely decide thnt tbere are disadvantages aft all "and t'-i&y neitber few Dor small beir-s "a cute, cunning little tblog." The Brown Veil. '. TIes taken on a new lease of fashlonafi favor. No matter what the tint of tl I'hnpenu. the brown face veil Is one tb sells five times over tbe counter for tl single sale of any other color. Eoin meb and the chiffon are nsed. aitbou there is a very marked tendency to baj tbe chiffon veil contrast with the fa veil where color Is concerned. Brow face veil, aDd a lilac not a lavender f be'Iotrope chiffon veil Is a favored cot blnatiou. Pale blue chiffon, too. Is t vored; and the ombre or shaded vel that were tried somewhat tentatively ' season or two ago are back again on more.