Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 31, Number 182, 29 July 1906 — Page 8

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uniiiir ItcMorlM, Motrin flml Cnt a ', 1'rcNeut it Ilewllilerlnur IMsplny of Ilrcdn-The Ariue of IhlrimiKiinro linl I ho Hrlitlit of Mi.ipll.lly Ale AVIIh Knoh oiln-r II)iiMlvroim!i t (iomu In I.IiiktI Sl 1 llfiil I.uceM Itluplt I'.smI for '-! in in I liK-M The Ihmii-J-l mi't Iln 11 nn for- IlrcM, ti lo e.t. ltl blioiiM, llnan,rhaprniii, M, it oil Sukfii llont to Mutclt

Tin jtntor l'nmillns wlio rhrerfully foots tin' l,illi'fir ilu iiiniisi'iiunti ami cxtrtivu-tr-'iiiiTH of his womwiklinl vrlU doulillons Kt rlvu.sly 'tiiiKliU-r Mittlnjj vacU of them upon :iu iill-l wancc, n Used nnil stntcd num, to Ih paid noon llxt'it nixl ttntefl tuUs. uti'l if! no vtisi! to tie untli'lpntoil or ovtHihiiwii, w lien tin' Itllld for this sumIUIT'm I'Uttlt Ix'lll to l'l)lll( 111. 'Die Miiiiincr M.lfs may ln Riioclnctly smniiH')! ivp iim xtfaviiKiiiico run riot. Not only Hi'i' tin- piwiw, tin- ldoiiBCM, ttio rlnin'iiux t-iikI I In I'oiintU'KS noressorlcs that k to i-ouijili'to tho uii-to-dntp toilette liiori; lih.iy, liluiHy anil uiurt! pcrlsliulilc than uvt'ii livfuiv; mt only uro they more costly nt tlu start, hut tlu-y, ono nnd nil, nre of tlu Mini ami I'hararti-r an to tlomand tho tii rvlc i's of a nklllod ' cloniKn-r rnthor than tlu- hoim'ly Mini I'oiuparMtlvi'ly luexpi-nslve ntti'ii! Ion of tln lauailross. Tin' latest fuil nml nn extra vacant oiu It ulinnst jroos without Raying Is to havi oacli toilet to eouiplott' tn Itself. For Ivstanee, not only Is ttiero tho sown, hut there must he a jiettloont, ti hat, n pan'ifoI, a luu, ulovos, shoi'S ami silken hose, all to niiiteh, ami these nre Hel?ctel nt their I, est Mlu'll they will not accord with the other Iti-ins of the wnnlrohe. t For example, with the white or colored linen frock of the morning appearances, there la to he n hlouse to match. The silken petlh'oat Is of the same tint, nnd If Ihe pnvii lie white, then white buckis kin ni!ii,s -canvas ones have been too cheaply put on the market to command any at tendon whatsoever from the exlpoanti' momlalnenud white silken hose iii'Ctimpany it. Hut If the sown o nm of the newer f-.iKhiomvl colored toiles,, then the same ullken nUIrt to match maintains, the Mouse must he of the same tint ns the linen, while Ihe footwear may he white silk, with clocks worked In the color of the Kown, and a pair of tluwo, white linen duck shoes that present a halrllno In color, uud a lint little cravat how of ribbon to mntch. in this way the mandates of fashion are obeyed, ami that air of -xclu-slveni'ss and extravagance well supported. The parasol Is one of the costly items this season that well displays even to the unobservant the probable amount of Its price. Mnw and more elaborate do they become, and the need for a goodly supply of sunshades Is just as Imperative us Is the requisite number of cluim;es In chemisettes and llnucrle. The plan of havlnsr n plain coachlns,- silk or linen parasol for mornliiit use and a slichtly more elaborate one for iit'ternoini drives ami visits will not tit In wlih the kowus In favor Just liow. U'hero must be some connecting link between the costume nnd the sunshade, some sameness of color, trimming or other adornment, that will unmistakably ihvlare it 11.1 u part nnd parcel of that toUctte ami of no other. 'Ike woll-tlrctscd l'arisioimo Is devoted to sample gowns for country wear; what she terms uer vtlb'gtnturi frocks. the eye of uiere lucu these uro the most deceiving things on the face of the earth.

simplicity to the Aery last fold and he fondly Imagines that Is In direct proportion to the Here is" where lie who hns :e of paying the bills comet to : ..Those simple looking little ail ;u'ii!e of the sheerest hnndcambric or bat lite. They il over silken linings that nre tremo of the mode, and thor1 t i lit the form faultlessly. !''. l.ai-.dwro-.ight, tvnked. lace- " h- -f t:h:iir(-s is 1 raped, ucv, iv l.a est dictates of fashl'"C(!i the materials In them1 co-.npti-.-atively inexpensi ve, t'.-.ai in pie little country .:'.t to t leant Into three tigurcs !-' d '.ars ratla-r than fraucs. s-e '. !c seen per .aps at its

o:.iniiii.s best when des ;n.e lingerie materials, n not the chemisette or '.e, 4!s our Fngllsh cons;in.' up Lsioiis of nursery "I days In the connection, uo :;nd separable port of

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SMART SUMMEK STYLES. DESCKIPTION OF MODELS PICTURED ON THIS PAGE-

Parisian

Type of Lingerie Celine.

Trln-

IVrhnps the most fascinating form of the prluoesse, mode presents Itself in the sheer hand-made frocks of lingerie materials, which the l'arislcnne orders by the dozen, rather than In single examples. A pleasing variety Is given to the shape In the way that the corselet portion Is opened In front to display the chemisette almost to the wnlstllno, little straps of white velvet ribbon seeming to hold It In place. The gown Is so designed 'that It may be worn with separate blouses, likewise of lingerie persuasion. The fitting Is accomplished by means of veTtloul hand-run tucks, those released when the curve of the hip is passed to form the necessary fulness of the skirt. This Is further Increased by means of two tdinped flounces, deftly Inserted each under an eutre-deus of laco showing a very much indented aud Irregular edge. This lace Is of the Valenciennes variety, the upper nnd lower rows showing the usual Valenciennes designs, while the center one Is more elaborate, having the edges of the upright medallions that form a part of the pattern finished with a heay buttonholing. The gown displays the new Bklrt length, lying on the lloor for an Inch or so in the -frout, a trifle longer on the sides, nnd just a thought stlU louger In the hack. The drop skirt, of course, follows exactly the same lines, and Is well featherboned beneath the finishing flounce, so that the l'arlslau flare Is softly accomplished. The Trend of the Comlnsr Mode. Hivent arrivals from Paris, by way of Uncle Sam's custom-house, present a bewildering variety of new stylos. Of most of them it may be said that they are on trial, sent over on approval ns it were. While the tout ensemble, as a rule, affects stmpUeity, thert- is a marvelous tiniovmt of line handwork and elaboration wheu one conies to examine those same models in detail. Several new features assert themselves in the illustration, w hlch will make a charming model for those planning autumn frocks when the dressmakers are not overrushed with work. The material is a silk voile, sheer as veiling, and with an embroidered coin spot well scattered at far intervals over the surface. The shade Is that hydrangea blue that suggests a pinkish tone in some lights, and the color charm is heightened In the use of a lavender silk drop skirt and lining. The waist Is fashioned after a bolero blouse, the deep sirdle topped with Cluny lace, plisse edged and well boned, with h cording along the edges to sustain the shape. The skirt has the familiar hip yoke and tsblier front in one. the sides shirred to the hip shape, nnd a boulllonne corded heading for the full and very elaborate flounce that ends the skirt. This skirt Is weighted with two deep tucks above the hem, and Irregular application of the real Otsny nre applied with a plisse ribbon edging. The whole costume is one of that distinctively Parisian charm which only the best makers on this side know how to reproduce

ltuttoiin nml tlie t'orttclot Iode. lluttons are finding nn enthusiastic acceptance in the later order id' things, and the dressmaker uses fully as many, if not more, than the tailor does. The imported model that forms the subject of Illustration Is fashioned in corselet style from a silk voile showing a small cheek In one of those indeiinito shades that It were hard to tell whether they are lilac or gray. This Illusive effect is heightened in the use of a burnished copper tint of taffetas for the foundation, while ihe little ribbon plisscs nre formed of a shotgrny and lavender weave. The skirt Is built up in corselet style to halfway between the bust and the natural walstilne, backward-turning pleats forming fulness below the hip line. These pleats are deftly shaped in to accentuate the waistline, and the trimming buttons of lightly sraoked pearl seem to hold them down. Above tlie deep hem at the foot then.' is a broad bias fold, this interlined with haircloth the new linen warp kind piped with an uncorded fold of satin and rounded at Intervals, buttons once more seeming to hold It in place. There is a clever little bolero top to the skirt, to be worn over a lingerie blouse when the gown is Intended for outdoor use. The lining of featherweight princesse haircloth serves to hold the sheer material in shape, ami the sheer voile is tucked and shirred over this. The sleeve is the usual half length puff, with n fancy cult adorned with buttons and pleatings nnd a flat collar to match. Some Hrilnt" lues of Dresden Ribbons. Ribbons nre the hall mnrk nnd sign manual of the later season's modes, and there is no end or limit to their application upon the tilmy and gauzy frocks that rule this summer's stylos. It takes a deft touch, though, to apply them to the uttermost advantage, and ribbons form a mode of trimming that is nil too easily overdone. The charming little frock that Is pictured gives some smart suggestions as to the ucs of ribbon la strict accordance with novel styles. The gown itself i of a pale creamy yellow chiffon cloth, as it is termini over here, the French retaining the more expressive term of chiffon double, or it double-wove chiffon. The ribbon Is one of the new gauze weaves with a satlu stripe, and the printings so cleverly done that the pattern appears with equal clearness upon both sides. The little waist is a shirred bebe pattern, with a deep draped girdle that shows a marked point In front, a Chantilly lace fichu, aud a half sleeve, lace and ribbon trimmed. Cut it is on the long skirt that the ribbons are used to the best advantage. Little ru2es, cut on the bias, are tucked and 'ace edged at the hem. and these are applied in panel fashion, a splashing bow of ribbon with floating ends marking the spaces between. There is a broad sash la the back, several loops of varyjng length at the top, and four broad streamers for a finish.

The Summer's Sunshade. The styles In sunshades and parasols change as much nnd as often as do the styles in other departments of dress. Of course, the changes here nre more subtle and less apparent than elsewhere, since the field Is a far tuore limited one to work upon. The later models are all of them more widely extended ami flatter when opened than were those of hist year. The handles, too, are conspicuously longer, some of them being veritable alpenstocks as to size nnd length. There is quite a liking for the natural corkwood, bogwood and other sticks of conspicuously light colorings, while as for those that are enamelled to match either the gown or one's favorite color, well, their name Is legion. Most of the expensive sunshades are lined nowadays, ami the ribs nre made to be ns ornamental ns possible. The tips, too, are either in silver or in gilt, as may best accord with the covering, while the use of crystal beads for a bull tip Is a little fad that has cnught on enthusiastically abroad. The smart one pictured represents a white silk that has been covered with a flat layer of white Chantllly lace, the lace seamed bo that each gore is well defined. Theu a pale blue velvet ribbon Is applied in Vandyke points, clipped ends crossing each other In the center of each gore, and nacre spangles applied to hold it down. A thick puffing of white chiffon forms the edge, and the same is twisted luto a thick rosette for the top aud another tacked on hair way down the long handle.

COMFORT OR STYLE f "There are a surprising lot of silk waists on view in most of the private dressmaking depnrtments of the big shops." announced the Inveterate shopper the other dtiy "And they are all of them occupying the places of honor that a few short weeks ago were accorded to the expensive handmade and Imported lingerie waist." -Well, what of It," asked the minister's wife. -who had a keen eye for the things of fashion, albeit she was an earnest church worker, and a power in the boy's Iiible clashes. "Oh, It just looks to me as though the fashionables had tired of the sheer batiste and handkerchief linen, the cobwebby affairs, anil decided that since the sewing machine had become such a clever worker, and could duplicate the choicest of their possessions after a fashion, and a very long way after, too for any shop girl who chose to Invest her pennies where they had put in dollars, well, they would and could order something that would prove distinctly different. That's all. I guess." "H'in." ejaculated the minister's wife, "it looks as though we were once more going to make fashion and comfort play the Kilkenny cat game. "ou may be comfortable hot you must be fashionable, was what they used to say in the old days. But if they are going to introduce silk waists for wear In the dog days, just to be a little different from others. It ought to read: "If you want to be fashionable, you must be uncomfortable. Guess I'll stick to my cobwebby little affairs for this summer through, at any rate."

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SAUNTERING IN FASHION LAND.

"The shop windows sre so misleading," complained an elderly woman the other day. "You know, one always depends more or less upon the displays in the shop windows to keep posted as to what is what nnd the latest styles. Hut all this spring and summer they have been the most misleading things that you could possibly imagine. "Now. of course, I know that the extreme of fashion is not invented or Intended for women of my age and my comfortable figure, but. just the s-.me, we realize the necessity for smart and up-to-date and clever dressing just as much as do our daughters ami daughters-in-law. Indeed, I wonder If we do tot need it even more. They have all the charm of youth to assist them. They can dress their hair In any style tlnit Is becoming to them, and so long as the eieuderness of youth clings to their figures it does not matter so mightily just how and wherewithal those same figures are clad. "But when once the figure settles somewhat, and one becomes a mother-in-law to some yocL-g urna, theu it. is the time to Invoke fashion's most Insidious assistance and put one's best points foremost. "Now, thtd spring pretty nearly every shop on the avenue that makes a window display at all showed princesse frocks that looked as though one would have to be melted and poured into them, as we used to say long ago, to make , them fit. Such shirtwaist frocks as were shown followed those same, lines, and even the little dancing f rocks? seemed skialp and scant in the body part, where they used to be comfortably full acd Moused. They all looked as though the 10-iiieh waist, that used to be the admiration and the goal of every 'girl, had come Lack again.

and that hips were to be the. least conspicuous parts of the anatomy. "And right side by side and cheek by jowl with those same skimp and skintight dresses were shown co.tt that it were no exaggeration to say fitted like a meal sack. The sliO'sM-ra were til! broadened out, and the garment widened In its every line from the shoulders to the hem. In the best of tbew there would be room for two such as I am at the waistline, and in the loDg ones the hem was full enough to innke a good-sized walking skirt. "Now, will you tell me, which, of the two styles was right? lkth of them? Why, that seems Impossible. Kl'h'T yoti are expected to lace and have the fro-ks uiaile to conform to the Cgcre. ns In tho?e skltj tight princesse.", or else the ecrufortable straight-front corset is worn with an agreabie looseness, as the coats would seem to indicate. What I the ae of having the gowns nade shirt tight to display the alluring curves of the figure, and then covering it up with a coat that displays not even a hint of tit aty where? I've been wondering alct it ail summer, aud guess I'll give it up now."

There sw.s to be

the use of those fascinating littl

frills of fcilk or ribbon or lace. In coming code these are raostly nosed

wane or let-up to

ttle piisro;

the. up

standing. They head deep tucks anI folds, they define the edges of the girdle, they trim collar, cuff and vest alike, aad they describe conventional designs nud patterns oa skirt hems and panels. There seems to be hardly any mode or metiod of trirarclcg into which they cannot be lntrodGced, and that with excellent results, too.

FORECASTING THE FALL j Importations in Dress tioods A4 ritiiiK Ilully Novel Ilralds ttnI Trlmml ii k Velvets Ki t rente 1 Prominent I'npllns a lleeeijti Arrival Uromlelot b. Holds Gondl llrnrlMH, ,wl 1 1 I 1. 4 ' ... .1 .,1

- - . - - . . . . . .

('anliiiii-rcN In VoRtie SklrtKf

Fuller nnd Well Miftenri! While the world fetulnlne Is niuus!t

itself by seashore ami )jke, by mountain

ami meadow in ml, the shfips, both big na little, are making strenuous efforts, to ifr

range and tlussify the goods that are ar-l

riving daily in anticipation of the autumn trade that starts in when Madame return?

to town. ; f Tho custom-house ofliclals Jhavo 'passed the sweltering summer in examining boltit(

iiici on ier in (eons n mi iurn materiiiisi

that only to look at will aggravate th

heat, while the handling of them seems to make the mercury welluigh jump out

of the thermometer tube.

It Is interesting to the privileged fov that are admitted to - wholesale warthoiises to see so fur In advutjee Just whit llame Fashion Is going to favor Home two

or three months hence. The city la

thronged Just nt this writing with inel

chants anil their representatives from all parts of the states selecting and ordering goods for Immediate and future deliverles. Dress goods seem to occupy. the;ttsaJor share of attention nt thfet momx-nl; and while the array is a bewildering viht, it may be narrowed down to such as expositive successes. At this season manyy things aw represented which will fail fji the future to win popular approval. I mine Fashion Is said to be a tickle lady, and pi nothing does she manifest this changeal4 quality more than in the dress goods e?tiou. ' ; With the extreme vogue that has nftended Irish linens, Irish crochet at! other products of the Ihnerald Isle It ji only In reason to suppose that the Iri.-fii poplins that have lieeu famous for a attury or more should have their due quo1i of fashionable attention, queen Alexandra of Knglnud and her daughters (tlve Queen of Norway and the Uuchcsa lf l ife; have always been extremely puffUl to thin fabric. There Is .a new weave". 111 this modish goods that partakes o thje so-called chiffon finish that is applied to well nigh everything these days. Thfc late one is quaintly known as the coIei poplin, in Guellc the word cob-en meoulif a pretty young girl. There Is no doubjt whatsoever but that the younger, as well as the more staid and elderly sections if society, will web-ome this decided novelty.

It uresents n tJigutiy riUDea surrace, t

t,ii-!i silken gloss, and, better still.

wears like iron, figuratively speaking. A

of ttie modish colorings are shown. I'.roadi loths of a high lusur and a coa

splcuously light weight are well repr-seuu-d on the wholesaV--r's counters. Color j is to plrty a very important part In tbefti. , ttlmmings of all orts anil characteA are sinted for a most enthusiastic lunlu$.

lleuri-ttas and ciiHlinire8, the high'

graoes le Jt wen imprstooa, are uuuli j

to extend the" fnvnrtftaf has beeu show

to them In the late spring styles. It.

ded, many of the models purchased 1

dressmakers ami buyers now ha Paris art made up in those effective '.(foods. lilliboii velvets are the trimmings, par excellence, for thoe; and so far as the fa fashions have deciarc-fl theinstfrves, it.fip

be the horizontal . line iif apiUing taft.i

that is to be followed. Mohair is another material to be a corded strong favor Ju Uih fail showlfetf

The newest designs from the other sic

are la ail the staple colorings browi

green, bine, etc., and there Is noted

strong tendency -toward Lovelty effects i

the form of the woven dotn, dashes ant stripe of K'-jf and coctrastltig colors, tbf

backgro-.siid snowing a melange eue.

whire and t.aatel color:-, of which ora

seems t be the favorite.

As for the new color card. It does r

df-iphiv anything that H strikingly nove

l'aris lersns mightily to biiii- n-w ljrowit

cuietiy or . the ipnii.iii"i ana coj per varieties; and in go'.'s of high lusu

they are certsmly most attractive, hon.

snnff and .i-iaiianion shades are attractlr c:-ite stfTim tt.-nr if,rc nml there are son

bines, which follow half tones rather thn aggressive shadings, that are bound t meet with approval. Those liiusive and elusive shair,gs appear only in the mor expensive good--, such as tiikn veiling

a:id sut

ly late.

linings. -:- j And. by the way, there Is t he a wr decided vogue for livings of a tlrong!4 eon trusting ebnd: to those transpareuf and seiiiitranspan-Rt weaves that hav lasted for inore than one season i.ouj Somewhat tentatively here the plaid and checked silks been used beoeath plalai voijes and the r twine cloths. Gray Is already slated to .coritince itSj vogne, but the new shades lire all of ther;? softer :.n-l even more intense than wefa these of the springtime. The extreme!'! light tints, as pearl and nickel, are passed, by ia favor of the denser smoke and to grays, the roarec-batis. the souris. deep eniiig into a peculiarly .-soft castor tifcf which declares a hint of yellow la its dyeing.

t If A

'. Itin t'lfnv M'MvfB fii:il- re clear-

del to be made op over eilkea