Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 31, Number 176, 22 July 1906 — Page 8

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The Vogue , of. the Princesse Mode Scarcely Affects the Blouse - Short Sleeves Still Popular - The High Collar and Dutch Neck

Notwithstanding th tremendous toko f tUo princesse gown, the smart little opart ts blouse continues on Its way, serene and undisturbed. To catalogue bere its many charms and virtuesapparent equally to the extravagant millionaire and the purse-pinched factory girl would be a Tain task. Suffice It to sum sll of them up In the fact that Dame Fashion ctlll beams most cordially upon the conceit and lends her most gracious air to Its wearing. But there Is a very marked difference to the cut of the blouae that Is to take t front place in the fashion procession flnrlng the autumn and winter months. For one thing, although the fit Is loose and easy, the curves of the figure are far moro clearly defined than heretofore. More often than not there Is a shaped piece Inserted under the arm. and both back and front are cut with, a welldefined gore to the seam. The shoulder, too. Is broad rather than long, and there Is not a shadow of a donbt but that the short, or at the most the three-quarter length, sleeve will prevail. Shallow yokes are the predominating feature of those that follow the fashionable lingerie persuasion. In many Instances those are but an inch or two deep below the throat, to spread well out as far as the sleeve seam on the shoulders, this bringing the fulness where it Is most required, and aiding in the effect of a full and high chest, even where such does not exist. Handwork of all kinds Is at a premium, and a high one, too, where the Mouse of any sort Is In question. Whether this fascinating little garment be fashioned of linen or batiste, sheer mull or chiffon. Ilk, satin, velvet or lace. It Is handwork that sets the pace for all the others to follow. There is still a very marked voeue for 'a mingling of trimmings rather than the adl&rence to one chosen kind. For example, a Mechlin or Valenciennes will be. used for strapping, headings and other entre deux purposes, and an embroidered Several Kinds of Fashion critics may decry, and theeconomically Inclined deplore the vogue of the baud made lingerie waist, but certain it is thst so long as such charming deslgus continue to appear and handwork Is at a premium, the women with a generous dress allowance will continue to purchase thus charming little blouses with generous scope. Later appearncea display several kinds of handwork all uulted in the one blouse. Witness the dainty model pictured. In which a round thread llw-n Is embroidered by , band In both eyelet and solid work, inset with band-made Irish crochet and strapped with entre-deux f valenctennes, Uttlo pin tucks are used effectively upon the shallow yoke, a mode of construction that Is highly favored Just now, and the high collar and shaped cuff are embroidered to match the front. Needless to say, the feHttonlng lp la ths back, to tbat tfct

ETCJ321LG m. -sfi 3 pattern Is planned to admit of the Introduction of motifs of Irish crochet, embroidered and lace medallions, or Some other note of relief In the design. Even in the dressier models this preference for the blouse Is still apparent. The finest of chiffons and even mnllnette are fashioned Into blousee that show a wellboned and fitted lining of silk beneath. In fact. In all those of dressy aspirations this fitted lining Is an indispensable item. To accord with the coming as well as the current vogue, this silk lining Is to be veiled with a single thickness of nioussellive de sole, this feature following tlio lines of the transparent blouse rather than the skin-tight tit of the lining itself. Exquisite specimens of needlecraft are displayed in those of sheer chiffon. In which a wilderness of tucks, a forest of faggoting and a maxe of lace are cleverly combined In an apparently simple scheme of trimming. For example, there will be a yoke a modlshly shallow one, It is true of bias folds of chiffon faggoted together after some intricate and fanciful design, in the meshes of which some fine Mechlin entre deux for Mechlin Is steadily supplanting "Valenciennes for such purposes will wander in and out. Occasionally the pattern is punctuated with a medallion or two, but their use is not nearly so general in expensive specimens as hitherto. The rage for tiny little pleattngs that has taken possession of the dressmaker'a mind displays Itelf to cunning advantage In the blouses, where set pieces of lace are made to do duty for the more closely fitted portions. Little bolero sides are planted Oat on the net or moussellne foundations, a yoke Is added to the top, and all the Intervening space is filled in with Richelieu pleatlngs with the most fetching results. Even on lace blouses those little pleatlngs any well-equipped trimming counter will be able to show a full stock of them are oftentimes used to fashion the entire sleeve, the note of connection between blouse and sleeve being etruek In the use of the lace for a cuff or for insertion among the ribbons. . Handwork. front Is left nnbroken for the display of needlecraft which It presents. The shoulder line Is broad, but not long, and stops exactly at the anatomical point where the short and puffy elbow aleeve Is inserted. The cut uuder the arm follows the new lines, In which the gore Is cut towards the front rather than the back, as was the case la last season's patterns. Little handmade crochet buttons are nsed for fastening In the back, and the buttonholes are wrought by band to sow, and not concealed under a tacked fly, as heretofore. The TOgue of the ethereal boa of thin fabric is most pronounced, the old-fashioned tulles and mallnes having given place to an equally dainty but more serviceable material serviceable because molstnr proof called tnsllnette. The smartest of these boas are in colon complimentary to the costume they complete.

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Fashion Fads of Feminine rancy.

The stay-at-homes have on advantage over their relatlveo who hie themselves to lake and seashore, mountain and and meadowland for the summertime. Just now all of the 6hops are stock-taking, and their most attractive wares are marked at prices which seem positively absurd when one remembers Just what the very same things fetched a few short weeks ago. To be sure, many of the best bargains are remnants, but here Is where the girl with a modicum of imagination can plan a wardrobe to meet the winter's social campaign for a fraction of what her wealthier sister will have to pay. Gauzqp, moussellnes, sheer, soft silks, ribbons of many kinds and characters, handmade blouses and boleros, smart pieces of Jewelry and the like are all being cleared out to make room for the new stocks. Even the more staple articles of feminine wear share in this general reduction. Dainty handkerchiefs and still daintier lingerie, auto veils, desk fittings,, fancy boxes for gloves and neck dressings, ready-to-wear belts and girdles, chemisettes in lace and embroidery, umbrellas with fanciful handles and ornate mountings are but a tew of the things that one can purchase for comparatively little Just now. Small wonder it Is that the clever woman with a small dress allowance finds it a profitable venture to run up to town for a few days right in the middle of the season. The many bargains that are offered will make it possible for her to accept many social invitations In the present and the future that she might otherwise have to forego. Just for lack of a fresh frock to wear. The millinery shops, such few of them as remain open, are offering stock for a mere song, and even the Imported models t&at were copied at a high price earlier are included In present offerings. It Is possible to purchase a fetching hat and a fascinating little tour de cou to match now for less than half what was asked for the hat alone Just a few weeks back. Stiuimer frocks and filmy blouses are things that the best houses will almost give away rather than carry over to another aeason. But the mall-order departments, where such are maintained, are not "put wise," to employ a slang, but expressive, phrase, to those reductions. When madame writes In and orders a half a dozen blouses sent on approval the regular prtces are marked on and expected to be paid or charged np. But let madame herself saunter Into the shop In mid-July and she will find prices reigning that cannot fall to prove potent temptations. Bags of every kind, sort and character are among the favorite pieces of pickup work for lasy . sommer days. Until I que pauses to think there is hardly any mea oi now many amereut smas oi oags and bow many kinds of purposes they may be put to. Opera and theater begs, fan bags, corset bags, shoe bags- work bags, piece and mending bags, laundry bags, chatelaine bags, hand bags and, really, the list may run on indefinitely. On dear id lad U making a large

number of handsome bags from exquisite ribbons of sash widths, or else from pieces of good old brocade. These, she explains, are staircase bags, an explanation that usually involves still another explanation to follow, so that their Intent may be made plain. In her home, she says, the balustrade Is a broad one of old mahogany, and since the drawing-room is on the second floor all of her guests and callers have to ascend and descend the stairs. Of course, the hand Is placed on the brond balustrade In going np and down, and since delicately colored gloves .are In vogue the slightest trace of dust upon the balustrade will show on the gloves. Hence she makes those beautiful bags, one for the top and one for the bottom of the staircase, and Inside there is a hemmed square of China silk in each. When any member of the family goes np or down this duster is taken out and run along the balustrade and then put In the bag at the other end. So her reputatlou for careful housekeeping does not suffer. So successful has the Idea proven in her own home that she is making similar bags as gifts for various acquaintances; and since the articles are delightfully quaint and ornamental in themselves they will doubtless prove highly acceptable to their recipients. Laundry bags are no longer the plain utilitarian receptacles for soiled linen that they once were. Nowadays they are as ornamental and decorative In outward appearances as is consistent with good laundering qualities. For the bag as well as its contents must withstand the test of the wasbtub. Fancy chintzes, French cretonnes, linens, art tickings, and even embroidered and braided denims are used. It Is quite a complicated affair, the latest manifestation in this useful article. In fact. It is a series of bags in itself. The original model was seen at one of the woman's exchanges, and was made in an English chlnts and bound with wash ribbons. There was a deep bag of oblong size, mounted upon a weoden roller, In which the Bcrew hooka were fastened. This opened with a silt In the middle and is Intended for the larger pieces. Below this slit, and on either side there are square patch pockets applied, one for stockings and one for. neckwear; while the lower end of the bag has still another pocket stretched across it, this for handkerchiefs and such like little odds and ends. The ribbon binding an d a fluffy bow at each corner of every pocket makes quite a decorative article of the formerly homely washbag; and the fact that the entire thing is washable makes it all the more attractive to the practically minded. Combination lingeries Is the fad of the moment. What with the long and unbroken lines that are demanded in the outer dress, the smoother end snugger fit of both corsage and skirt at the waistline, makes petticoat and drawer bands, corset-cover belts and drawstrings things to be banished as Quickly as possible. Some very attractive sets are seen In the specialty houses: but their price, it must be confessed, puts them beyond the reach oX the average woman. Thera la

one clever combination put on the market lo which the corset cover, drawers and short skirt are all In one little beaded band at the waistline. Those, of course, are fashioned from a sheer French nainsook or batiste, all handmade, and elaborated with hand embroideries. However, for the woman who Is at all clever with her needle, the paper-pattern houses are a boon and a blessing. One can purchase a paper pattern of really good design in those combinations for 10 or 15 cents; and with the help of a Beamstress for fitting for there must not be a wrinkle In the finished article when worn a very good garment can be turned out lor comparatively little. Where handwork Is liked It can readily be used, since the cut Is of the circular kind and the seams but few. In the shops even the machine-made kind are still expensive; and where economy of money rather than of time Is an object It will pay well to make them up one's self. Colored shoes are more than a fad this summer; they are a perfect furore. It Is no uncommon thing nowadays for the dyeing-houses to receive a bundle of ostrich tips for the hat, ribbon for trimming long gloves, silk stockings and white shoes, all to be dyed to the one tint and to match. In fact, this season is a haytime and harvest for the expert dyer, for the tints In each and every department of the wardrobe are expected to match tp a miracle. The shoes seen on the sidewalk are In best taste when they follow the darker tones, but for house and evening wear every shade of the rainbow, and a few more besides, are In order.

Irish Crochet Find Manx Use. There seems to be no end to the use that designers and creators of the styles find for the Irish crochet laces. Whole princesse gowns are fashioned of them, these, it must be confessed, for. the purse' of the wealthy few rather than for the well-to-do many. The cult of the coat, which has taken such strong hold upon the fashionables, Is well expressed In those expensive crochet arrangements. Those fetching little garments are Intended rather aa a finishing touch to the toilette than for any warmth or protection that tbey are supposed to afford. Fashioned unlined, and necessarily ot a loose cut and fit, they need but little or no alteration to make them suit the average figure. The best makers strive to keep at least one girl In the workroom who is expert with the crochet needle to make the alterations upon those extravagant little Items. Where such is necessary and it is usually in the shoulder and underarm parts the crochet hook Isscalled into use rather than the sewing machine. The connecting stitches are cut away and the pieces of the pattern caught together with the hook and a lew chain stitches run in to connect them and make the garment the right size. The latest fad Is to have those lined with a printed pompadour chiffon, either applied plain, accordion or sunplaited, according to the style of the coat ; and little ribbon ruffling or rtchelieu plaiting In the dominant color of the printed chiffon are applied on each and every edge of tha coat.

The Reign of the Velvet Ribbon-Fashion Claims it in Every Department - The Milliner Makes Effective Use of it

Velvet ribbons are the fad of the moment. On every hand one sees them nsed, not with a halting discrimination, but just as lavishly as the design of the garment or chapeaa will permit without the appearance of overloading. The soft pile fabric has displaced every other weave of the ribbon loom. " From a plain and pure white on through the entire gamut of the color card, there Is not a tint or nuance of the mode that Is not duly and well represented in the velvet weave. On the sheerest of handkerchief linens and batistes, on through ihe dotted Swisses, the linens, the silk foulards and eollennee and the filmiest voiles, there Is a field for the velvet ribbon such as Dame Fashion fickle as she Is has seldom or never vouchsafed before. Not that there Is any heaviness In the appearance of the frock or cbapeaa so trimmed. Quite the contrary. For those new velvet ribbons are of the panne order, finished with a conspicuously short pile and pressed as the name implies between hot rollers to give them an extra glossiness of surface. The milliner makes most effective use of those adjuncts to fascination - In her wares. In the earlier part of the season it' was the loulslne and the satin ribbons that held the center of the stage, with perhaps an occasional taffetas glace to vary the monotony. But In the later development It is the velvet ribbon that reigns supreme. On those unsubstantial-looking Neapolitans and horsehair " braids iboagh their stability la wear well belles their frivolous and extravagant looking frailty the velvet strands are cleverly combined with ostrich tips in some novel forms. The lyra plume, that has been vulgarized Into a "lobster feather," Is In the highest standing yet for millinery purposes; but Its latest manifestations display it wIUj rosettes and fringed loops of velvet ribbon peeping through the outward curl of the feather Sues. And It is quite a point to note that every tint' of the color card is fashionable when it comes to velvet ribbons. The ubiquitous bandean whatever wonld the milliner do with this season's shapes without it, pray? is at its very best when It is covered with a filmy mallnette, the new waterproof kind, with a huge ebon of velvet ribbon to rest against the hair, this being balanced and matched by the similar one only larger that decorates the top of the hat There Is quite a tendency on some of the later models to make the ribbon trimming cover the entire top of the crown, and have a regular cravat ot ostrich tips encircle it lower dowa, the ends falling over the upturned side, or else dropping over the back to rest on' the hair behind. The fact that the velvet weave has so much more body and stability In Itself tends to make It a favorite for such u, since it does not require all of that stiff wiring which so completely destroys all the charm and allure of the softer finishes. Turquoise and del blue, coral and -rose

pink, the several shades of terra cotta and copper browns, some soft, mossy-look lng greens, and deep, dense grays that shade! well Into the foggy brown tints are really at a premium among those manufacturers who cater exclusively to wholesale milliners. Those latter folks, by the way, are busily engaged Just now In settling the shapes and colorings that shall reign on madame's and mademoN selle'a we-ll-colffed head when the country season and vacation arc a thng of the past, and when all society returns to town to plume Itself anew In new gaud and feathers. , The vogue of those chsrmtng lltcl nothings that one throw carelessly around the shoulders your favorite shopgirl will insist upon referring to them usually as "hoars" is on the increasa since that delightful waterproof ma linetersely and happily termed mallnette has ' become so popular. The part that I usually known as the "tour de con," really and literally, around the neck, la of several thicknesses of the mallnette, box pleated to bold It together In the center, and the finish 1 a shower fringe of velvet ribbons knotted together for all .the world like a towel fringe that bangs from the box-pleated collar to well below the knees. Sot less than a dozen strand of two-Inch velvet ribbon to either side will meet the demands of fashion; and when the double-faced velvet ribbon 1 used usually black on the pile aide and some delicate tint on the other In satinthen the most exacting requirement ot the mode have been complied with. On the dainty little bolero that are to do such manifold duty In the coming style the velvet ribbon finds, perhaps. Its greatest and most effective field. Masquerading as bridge Jackets, alternate rows of ribbon and lace make the most fetching resnlts. There Is ho lining whatsoever to those fascinating trifles, so that tbey are equally appropriate with a hlgn or low Decked gown, and the sleeve 1 quite an abbreviated affair, usually slashed np the center and with a few strands of the ribbon running across the open part to bold it In shape. For sasb and girdle effects to be worn with sheer frocks, from a dotted ewles or cotton voile to a silken chiffon, velvet ribbon add Just that touch of richness which a simple design so often, demands. In spite of its being a pile fabric. It doe not add one lota to the apparent size of the waistline. Indeed, so much to the contrary is it that when one of those featherboned frames that lace In front la nsed and the girdle drawn somewhat snugly In the lacing, an appearance of tenderness pan be gained with comfort. On the silken parasols that are rep lacing to some extent the over popular linen sunshade a few rows of velvet ribbon la a contrasting rather than a matching shsde will add much to the seeming costliness of the article. And a big and fluffy cbou. fashioned from many loop , well pinched in the middle, tacked halfway down the long shaft handle, will go far towards making an Inexpensive affair altogether a la mode.

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