Richmond Palladium (Daily), Volume 31, Number 149, 24 June 1906 — Page 2

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Huart and Dfcomlni Toilettes 1 That Ar Strlotlr Practical Oomfort and Appearanc Both Considered The Cool, Cut-down Neck a Vast Favorite The Short Sleeve la Loose and Puffy Smart Dulgna la Swealera-Uatt and Xlalmete Gloves and the Matter of Complexion. ' The Athletic Girl this la her day and hour I For ber do the tallora and designers put forth their beat efforts, and all of the smart specialty shops fairly teem with suggestions Invented and devised for j ber especial comfort A smart trlgnesa characterises the appearance of the present-day athlete of feminine persuasion. Not that she Is aggressively athletic. Oh. no I That Is not the correct pose. It Is merely that ahe la Inclined to wax Interestingly enthusiastic over her favorite sport, and that her taste la somewhat catholic where sport Is concerned. Golf, tennis, fishing, automobilIng or "bubbling," as the younger section of society are wont to tersely express It swimming, rowing and canoeing; one nd all are likely to engage her attention, according to time.; place and opportunity. A picturesque carelessness In dress and appearance, aa our forbears osed to term It, la no longer la vogue. Rather la It the well-groomed girl how this scribe wishes that some other phrase less suggestive of tables and currycomba would be Invented who occupies the attention of the critical. For one thing, the hair must be always In absolute order, not a single lock or even a single hair out of place. A vigorous one of the hair brush, a liberal application of brtlllantln and a deftly applied hairnet will permit the following of the hatlesa fad for those who desire to brighten the chevelure with the direct rays of the sun. The designer who first thought of that low-neck and short-sleeved blouse must have been a sportswoman herself. That 't baa been taken up enthusiastically goes well-nigh without saying, for there has been nothing to far presented that can compete or compare with It for both comfort and good looks. For all outdoor purposes It simply CDs a niche of Its own : while If It be desired to fill In the neck and lengthen the sleeve, there are those mart sets of chemisette and undorsleevea to meet the occasion. Cravats and belts are quite Important itema In the outfit of the athletic girl, and one of the latest Ideas has those to match. These gayly colored rnrochanda scarfs And many applications after this wise; and since they are goods that seldom or never reach the bargain counters their value Is apparent at the first glance. Gayly colored cravats and belts the latter with little featberbone sttfTentnca are fashioned from all sorts of ribbons; and It Is not at all uncommon to find two or more narrow ribbons decorating a broad ons so as to attain an original and Individual design. For tennis and golf wear those circular skirts that show a fastening on either side of the central seam are attracting quite a lot of attention at the tailor's. A ' rather heavy pique la In favor once more la thla connection, after an absence of several seasons. The one showing a somewhat Irregular rib la the most attractive, and In linen piques the shirt and skirt to match la the etyle most often ordered. What with the excellence of patterns that may be purchased for a few pennlea there la no reason why those smart garments cannot be duplicated at home by either the amateur dressmaker or the regular seamstress for vastly less than the fashionable tailor demands for his work. The summertime riding habit has taken to Itself quite a new cut and a novel presentation. The style of riding cross saddle. Instead of the oldtlme and regulation side saddle, la one that Is spreading every day. That section of aoclety which winters at Aiken and summers In easy reach of Meadowbrook and 'Cedarhurst, they are the most enthusiastic cross-saddle riders; and on thetr regular and periodical visits to the hunting centers of England and Ireland the cross saddle and the divided skirt are aa Integral part of the equipment. Physicians unqualifiedly Indorse the cross saddle both more healthful, less harmful, and tar leas liable to accident

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than the old-time side saddle; and all of the youngsters today who are being taught to ride are following this much more sensible style. Those skirts are so fashioned that when one Is on the ground there Is very little. If Indeed any, perceptible d Iff erf nee between the "Stride" skirt as they term It and the usual short walking skirt. A smart little coat, usually of the semlfltted order, and with a velvet collar and cuff to lessen tbs severity, completes the costume. The almost universally becoming trlcorn has taken tbe place of the derby bat In tbe equestrienne costume. For one thing, tbe derby hat, with Its hinting of mannlsbness In tbe attire. Is not at all In accord with present Ideas. The smart and snug trlgnesa of the plain tallormade Is in high esteem, especially where country and outdoor - clothes are concerned; but the suggestion of mannlshness or of masculine borrowings must be decidedly missing. The saving grace of the touch of femininity must assert Itself, subtly. It la true, but none the less apparently fcr all that. Year by year the bathing suits that are offered are becoming more and more dressy; and yet here, too, the practical side of their use la kept well In view. For those who cannot afford a goodly quality of silk or satin, mohair la the next best fabric. Some clever touches of color contrast are usually Introduced, fancy braids are made much nse of; and a gayly colored sash and cravat are added at the last moment to complete Us charm. Description of Illustrations. A Trw of tha Outdoor Girl. The breesy, wholesome outdoor girl dresses tbe part today to perfection. Her blouse Is full and plain, lacking altogether the frllla and fusainess wherewith she .dignifies her more formal toilettes. Skirts clear the ground comfortably; shoes have a trig heel and a well arched Instep to support tbe natural arch of the foot, and the balr la encased In one of those Invisible hair nets that defy detection In all but their results. The new season's shtrtwaUta conform strictly ta the plain and sever tailor-made styles. Tbe backs are more usually finished with a. shirtmaker's yoke, the better to stand the strain which a free nse of the arms and shoulders inevitably brings upon the back of the blouse. The fronts are deeply tucked to tha shoulder seam, bringing a

fulness of material where It Is needed, over tbe chest. In order to diminish the bulk at the waistline the material Is laid In deep pleats close to either side of the front fastening, and then cut away beneath, the seam resulting being "bagged" after the French fashion. The shaped belt la one of those clever suggestions that lengthen and, apparently at any rate, make the waistline more rounded and slender. Like so many of tbe season's successful ceintnres this one fastens In tbe back. The high stock, with Its smart ascot or four-ln-band tie. Is returning to marked favor. In Its later appearances It la worn unstarched, but made of piques, madras, or some one or another of the cotton shirtings with sufficient body to maintain the shape without nndue wrinkling. It Is far cooler and more comfortable done op In thla nnstlffened style. Tha 'Stride Riding? Ilablt. The fashion of cross-saddle riding Is one that the American girl can well lay claim to Introducing abroad. At the bunts at Pan, Dlnard and other resorts in the South of France, to say nothing of those centering around Melton Mowbray, In England, and the Curragh Camp, in Ireland, the American girl baa always been In the very first flight, has met with fewer accidents and has had more fun generally than her French and British cousins, who follow tbe older custom of the side saddle. At first there was considerable prejudice against the cross saddle, but It has steadily gained ground on both sides of tbe Atlantic, and nowadays all the Juveniles are taught to follow this style. The very cleverly designed habits suited for this recent style, too, have contributed In no little measure to Its success. A charming Illustration Is that pictured, wherein a skirt designed exclusively for cross-saddle riding Is shown. The clever part Is that It Is In no wise a bloomer or divided skirt when the wearer is on tbe ground, tbe front breadth, or apron, to speak by the book, fastening over with a row of self-covered buttons, that add much to the smart effect. Tbe coat Is one of those fitted back and aide designs, the fronts furnished with a single dart either side of the fly fastening, the dart running np to the shoulder seams. A brown velvet collar lends softening touch to the tan grlffonette cloth, tbe plain coat sleeve being a trifle fall at the top to accord the better with present styles. The hat Is the trlcorne. done In straw, a shape that has almost entirely replaced the derby, which was formerly the only correct headgear for equestriennes, but which proved far too trying

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for the many to remain a popular favorite. The Bathlna; Girl 1906 Appearance. Gray has crept Into the bathing field as we may nse this term) as well as into the street and dress wear of womankind, and lustrous gray mohair trimmed with white or bright colors will grace many of the fashionable beaches this summer. The gored or pleated skirt Is replacing tbe circular skirt In bathing suits, as the former hold their shape better and give better lines to the nncorseted figure. The suit In the picture Is a fine gray mohair with ample but not overmuch fulness In the blouse given by tiny pin tncks that form a yoke. The blouse Is attached to the bloomers, tbe Joining held flat by many rows of machine stitching; this serves the further purpose of giving a firm band to which the skirt may be securely attached. A broad scalloped collar with stole ends decorates -.he blouse, the stole ends apparently continuing of the skirt hem. Tbe sleeves are scant puffs run on elastic, the sort the swimmer most prefers. Indeed, this suit Is excellent for the swimmer as well as the bather. If the bathing place be private the skirt may be discarded for long swims. That Smart Coat Sweater. The English title of Jersey Is so much prettier and far less suggestive of a disorderly toilette that It Is much to be wished that we on this side of the Atlantic would substitute it for the present nomenclature of sweater. But no matter by what name It is Identified, true it is that the sweater fills a niche in the wardrobe that nothing else quite can. Tbe

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latest development Is tbe coat sweater, a far more convenient garment than tbe style which prevailed a few seasons ago. and which had to be pulled on over the head, to the much detriment of the coiffure, even though a hair net was pinned securely on. For pickup work the sweater offers many attractions, since here, as elsewhere, the erase for handwork dominates the fashion. The hand-made sweater has a smoothness and an elasticity, a better fit and snugness without tightness which tbe machine-made article, be It ever so well manufactured, can never nope to possess, added to which Jt Is easy to tell at the very first glance whether the sweater Is tbe product ot nimble Angers and knitting needles, or whether It Is merely a machine production, turned oat by the hundred. Tbe fancy work and knitting books are rich In designs and patterns for sweaters this year, and the Instructions are so clearly given that even a novice with tbe needles can hardly rati to accomplish tbe desired result. The stitch must not be too loose nor yet too tight, as either extreme Is lacking In that elasticity which should characterize a knitted piece. The coat shape has made quite a furore for Itself In smart circles, and certainly It baa much to commend It over the blouse shape. For outdoor and athletic nse one can make It take the place of a coat, and being delightfully elastic. It will yield to every motion of the body In golf, tennis, rowing, fencing or what not. Some smart girls are making theirs wits, a high collar that wfll torn np to the throat, this to be rolled back In little revers wben It Is not desired to cover the neck. The fad for the low-throated blouse la linen, madras and other tub materials

this year will make the sweater collar doubly useful, since the base of the throat Is a delicate spot with many, and a slight protection at this point will ward off many a summer sore throat. The three-quarter sleeve Is to be preferred to the long one, as the hand-knit article is sometimes wont to stretch lengthwise when on a visit to tbe laundress. This, too, leaves tbe wrist free to wield golf club or racket, besides being In better accord with the mode In more formal garments. The Xureerr Dreeeiasr Trtsaau AH of baby's belongings, his current as well as bis reserve stock of clotnea, are kept m one of those dainty rattan hampersor rather trunks, furnished with two or more trays. The trunk Is such that it can be emptied In a moment, thoroughly washed and scalded, and Its dainty linings renewed at a moment's notice. The trunk is mounted on castors so that It may be moved conveniently to whatever spot the bath Is placed at, and the dressing comfortably accompllshe.1. The trays are lined with a wadded china silk, liberally besprinkled with a good sachet powder; and sheer lawn fittings, lace ruffled, are lightly tacked to the linings, so that they may be removed for laundering instantly. The top tray holds the toilet articles, bibs, etc.; and tbe lower ones tbe clothes In about tbe order they are wanted.

The new pursea and bags are a Joy to tbe lover of leather things. The chatelaine bag has returned to favor. There are also novelties In small oval-shaped purses with long chains. Some of these are of alligator, polished until they shine like tortoise shell Purses In the lerant leathers are shown in ail colors.

Mints lor the Housewife

Eggs. Eggs are at about their cheapest price In the local markets Just now, so why not preserve them for fall and win ter nse? The water glass (sodium silicate) way Is the best. The process 1s so easy that the smallest child In the family may be called upon to assist and enjoy tbe novel work. Tbe commercial solution may be obtained from any drug store, since It Is an article In regular demand by physicians for casts and splinting purposes for broken limbs. Dilute this with 10 times Its bulk of water. That Is. If yon purchase a quart, add 10 quarts of water, making 11 quarts of liquid In all. Plan to preserve the fresh eggs only; for no process of preserving that ever was thought of wfll Improve a stale egg. Pack them In wooden or earthen Teasels, after the eggs have been thoroughly coated with the solution, and each day add the freshly preserved ones with a wooden spoon, so as to avoid danger of breakage. Keep the eggs covered with tbe solution and keep tbe containing vessel covered and In a dark and cool place. Olive OH. -The virtues of olive oil are only beginning to be understood orer here. In Italy and Southern France there are more uses for the oil than yon can connt upon the fingers of both hands. Olive oil is one of the things where the best Is emphatically tbe cheapest, not only In the long run. but all the way through. Tbe very best oil bss a distinctly greenish cast and but a very faint odor, and runs thin and easily from the spout of the can or the neck of the bottle. When perfectly pure It Is s somewhat difficult thing to "drop" tbe oil. except with a regular medicine dropper. For children to whom the odor of cod liver oil Is offensive quite as good results can be bad with olive oil. For certain forms of dyspepsia the pure virgin olive oil Is considered a specific by Italian physicians, tbe dose being a tea spoonful before meals and a tablespoonfnl afterwards. Where, tbe body la unduly thin and the body weight below the normal a course of olive oil, taken before, during and after each meal In small split doses has been found to work wonders. While for the girl who Is smbltlous to have perfectly rounded neck and throat, fill up those "salt cellars' to the shoulders, round out and plump the arms snd hands, nightly inunctions of olive oil, taken after a quick, warm sponging, will bring about all the plumpness that she so much desires. In the kitchen, too, olive oil will prove fsr better than lard for frying purposes. In the summertime, wben the kitchen lire Is dispensed with, chops, steak, rechauffes and snch fried In olive pit will not prove greasy, and will have a far more delicate flavor than If cooked In lard or cottolene. The oil can be need time and again, slice of raw potato thrown Into tbe hot oil absorbing every flavor; or a thick crust of stale bread will do fully as well, so that tbe oil Is ready tor the next time without bringing to mind tbe odors of r many dinners cooked In the heretofore. Summer curtains and draperies may be made fully fireproof by dipping In strong solution of alum. Put the slum In tbe pail or washtob, according to tbe size and number of pieces to be Areproofed; pour on bolting water Just sufficient to dissolve tbe alum and let It get cold. If there Is any sediment of alum at tbe bottom, sdd some more hot waterjust what yon think will be sufficient to dissolve the remaining crystals, . Wash the draperies la the usual way, bine them where necessary, and then rinse them well tbrongb tbe alum water for tbe Anal process. If they are to be dampened and Ironed, nse the alum water to sprinkle. Curtains and hangings prepared In this way wlU not take Are readily. . Bather will the cotton fiber smoke In a gas or candle flame and singe slowly, the smell of burning fabric In the meantime de claring Itself strongly ana eviag noues of the danger. The Approved Shirtwaist Cos AOs letlea. The spread of athletics among young people In general bas brought about most delightful change In fashions. Nowadays comfort, utility and beauty of appearance are factors that the designer thinks of first of all, and nnless those are kept In plain sight the design Is likely to come to naught. Assuredly, this Is tbe de of tbe athletic girt. For her the shirtmakers and tailors put forth their best efforts, and the bootmakers and corsetleres are not far behind In the procession. The smart blouse pictured Is one that wlllo-Vnd itself gracefully for all sorts of weaf during tbe summer. Tbe low open throat will do much to restore necks that have become slightly discolored from a too close and tight collar heretofore. Tbe broad shoulder Una, with Its easy, ample pleats, allows for a fnll and free swing of the arm at all times, while the short and loose sleeve does away altogether with tbe unsightly rolled up arm covering to which former belles of tbe courts snd golf grounds have been compelled to resort to. A Windsor tie or a length of broad ribbon serves to draw the loose eton collar as closely around the throat as may be desired, and belt of the same material as tbe shirtwaist or tbe tie Is tbe soluble flnlsh. Anent the lingerie frock It Is to be noted at those places where fashionables gather that the lingerie frocks are worn by the matrons rather than by the young set the reversal of what would seem natural. Possibly this Is because tbe rest French lingerie robe Is too expensive a creation for any but tbe woman of unlimited purse, or maybe It is because, being genetically a "baby dress," youth scorns it wben age adopts It-

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