Rensselaer Union, Volume 9, Number 8, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 9 November 1876 — New York Fashions. [ARTICLE]
New York Fashions.
In dresses proper there has been but little change, the great difference between costumes being attributable more to the modes of trimming and the combination of different modes than to any radical change. And even the most popular modes of trimming partake but sparingly of novelty. Side-pleatings still hold the general fancy, but box-pleating, as far more showy, divides the honors. All overdresses and polonaises being made remarkably long, skirts require not so much ornamentation that extends high on the skirt as some arrangement that may produce the best effect in a small space. A dress skirt illustrating this to a high degree has a six-inch straight flounce made mto flue knife-pleating, above which is a bias ruffle twice the width of the former. This is divided, into sections, which are box-pleated, rounded at the lower edge, while at the upper, each side Is finished by a revers which is united by a cord and tassel tied at the top. An old style, long obseUte,. has again, been revived, and meets with favor. It consists in placing upon the skirt seven, nine or eleven flounces about five inches wide, so arranged that they overlap. The lower edge of these flounces is bandyked, piped or corded. A most popular mode of ornamenting cashmere or silk dresses is by means of embroidered bands and ruffles to correspond. Handsome bands, machinewrought, are procurable at moderate rates and often successfully challenge detection as not being done by hand. Those, of course, that are embroidered by the latter process are trebly expensive, but are very beautiful and rich. In working them upon velvet, chenille is often employed, with charming effect, to replace gloss. All species of flat trimmings are extremely popular, galloons, wide braids and passementeries particularly so. Fringes remain in unabated demand, and are handsomer eveiy day. The most elegant ones show headings as deep as the pendant portions, and many have double-netted ones, with small tassels placed at intervals, while in the fringe itself the tassels are as close together as is practicable. Many handsome garments exhibit two or even three varieties of trimming, an elegant and not unusual combination being feathers and fur. Some exquisite bands prepared for this purpose have the fur three inches wide, while at spaces of two or three inches are placed cluf.ters of feathers in the form of a leaf. For cloth wraps and heavy dolmans, sacoues, etc., woolen fringes are largely worn; but a handsomer and more novel variety of trimming is seen in the beautiful silk gimps. Many rows of these placed close together give an appearance of a rich embroidery, so elaborate are some of these designs 'seen in the crimp. A novelty are the canvas braids embroidered in wool. Sometimes, for more expensive toilettes, the canvas itself is wool and silk, and the embroidery is done with bright floss silk. This garniture is used on very elegant dresses. A few superb imported costumes have magnificent applique designs done in velvet They are generally palm-leaves of velvet, combined with other leaf varieties cut from silk of most brilliant colors. The charms of millinery are exhaustless, and every day reveals new productions that are exceedihgly beautiful. Among evening hats a lovely one is of white French felt with tolling brim. The crown trimming consists of loops of white twilled ribbon, and a paroquet of green with scarlet top-knots. A handsome garniture tor outside and the face trimming is a profusion of minute scarlet moss-rose buds. Long black velvet streamers at the back tend to subdue the general brightness. A handsome bonnet, but one rather bizarre in its ornamentation, is of the cottage shape, the crown covered with myrtle green velvet. A loosely folded band of white plush encircles it, and at Bie back is a cluster of solfatara and white roses imbedded in a knot of white serge ribbon, and loops of myrtle green chenille cord. White ostrich tips ana a bunch of the two roses trim the side. The face garniture consists of a twist of velvet, and the roses fastened by a steel buckle. Loose, puffed crowns, caught irregularly down by unseen stitches, are quite popular, and are certainly very stylish. For children and young misses a style fast gaining groan/ is that of the Scotch cap seen with boys’ Scotch suits. They may be quite simple or profusely garnished. A handsome one has the top of rich purple velvet banded by golden peacock eyes, and long streamers tied in a bow behind are of purple ribbon, satin and gross-grain faced. These caps, which are very piquant and generally becoming, will undoubtedly have a protracted ana successful “run." — N. Y. Cor. Chicago Tribune.
