Rensselaer Union, Volume 8, Number 51, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 7 September 1876 — Silks and Woolens. [ARTICLE]

Silks and Woolens.

Purchasers are advised that silks will be higher when the fall stock arrives than at present. There has been an advance of fifty per cent, on raw silk, but dealers say two-thirds of tills is for labor, and that the manufactured goods will show only an increase of fifteen per cent. It will be well for ladies who study economy to make their purchases early, especially as we can tell them upon reliable authority that black and extremely dark colors will be fashionably worn again; also • that grosgrain, with medium reps and demi-lustre, will be the first choice. It is safe to buy black gros-grain, myrtle green or seal brown; and navy blue will be worn again, provided it is almost black; indeed', the best selection is what is known as blueblack or ink-color. Myrtle green is the fancy of the moment in Paris, and will be the prevailing shade here next season. It commends itself to people who can buy rich goods, because it is a shade that cannot be obtained in common coarse stuffs, and in mixtures of wool and cotton- It is the fashion in Paris to relieve it with ecru trimmings, but for winter, the entire dress will be green, with an ecru bonnet and gloves. Damassee and armure silks are also being very largely imported to serve as parts of costumes. These come in intri-cately-woven figures, so closely matted that they do not fray, as loosely-"brocaded silks are apt to do. The princesse overdress will be of this figured material, while the skirt will be velvet or plain gros-grain. Bright shades of cardinal red are found among the fine silks, and are used in Paris for lower skirts and trimmings with princesse polonaises of quiet colors. Creamcolor with cardinal is especially fashionable for the demi-saison, and makes a very gav costume for the autumn at the seaside or' the watering-places. Indications are that red dresses will probably be introduced for house and evening wear, and that cardinal will form a very prominent part in street costumes. The new woolen goods are of the same soft pliable texture lately worn, but are woven in greater variety of designs than we had for several seasons. Of late almost all fine woolens were in twilled diagonal patterns; now we are to have not twills alone, but raised figures, Mexicaine patterns in squares, armures, and raised threads in diamonds and cross-bars. Perhaps the prettiest fabrics are those fine wools, as soft as camel’s-hair, yet woven in quadrille threads all of one shade, mVking a raised square in the center by depressing the barred threads, or else lowering the square/and having thicker threads for the bap. The honey-eomb and basket-woven patterns of last year are all shown again. Damask and brocaded patterns have very small figures. Solid colors prevail, but there are many fine black and white checked goods also. The stripes shown'are mostly in the weaving, riot in the coloring. A favorite design is a closely twilled stripe, half an inch wide, with a Mexicaine or quadrille pattern between. The roughfinished camel’s-hair and serges of last year s will remain in fashion, also cashmeres. In plain cashmere black will still be used as a standard dress; when

colors are chosen they will be of the ink shades flint are only a few removes from black. As we have already said, myrtle green of the darkest hue will be the most stylish color for winter suit*. The new seal browns are darker even than those of last winter. In assorted cases of nice woolen goods the darkest shades are ranged in this order: first green, then seal brown, navy blue and granite. The gray shades formerly so much worn rank last in numbers among late importations. Some bright cardinal red shades are imported in cashmere and quadrille woolens. Empress cloths are brought out in good dark shades for serviceable dresses, and merino is shown in light tints for children’s wear and for wrappers, as well as in the dark shades that wear Well and do not show soil. The gauzes for full-dress toilets this winter are in the designs described for silk, viz., arabesques and armure. They come in silver white, cream, ivory, gazelle brown, rose leaf, sea foam green and In dienne blue. Frosted gauzes are brought out for veils that are to be passed around the crown of the hat and fastened under the chin by a small brooch. — Harper's Bar tar.