Rensselaer Union, Volume 7, Number 36, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 27 May 1875 — A Visit to a Turkish Harem. [ARTICLE]

A Visit to a Turkish Harem.

Half an hour’s ride brought us to the Pasha’s house in Stamboul—a large wooden building with closely-latticed windows. We were received at the door by a tall, Ethiopian, who conducted us across a court to the harem. Here a slave took our wraps and we passed into a little reception-room. A heavy rug of bright colors covered the center of the floor, and the only furniture was the divans around the*sides. The Pasha’s two wives having been apprised of our intended visit were waiting to receive us. Mme. L was an old friend and warmly welcomed, and, as she spoke Turkish, conversation “was brisk. She presented me and we all curled ourselves up on the divans. Servants brought tobacco in little embroidered bars, and small sheets of rice paper, rolled up cigarettes, and soQn all were smoking. The Pasha is an “ old-style” Turk and frowns on all European innovations, and his large household is conducted on the old-fashioned principles of his forefathers. His two wives were young and very attractive women. One with a pale, clear complexion, dark hair and eyes, quite came up to my idea of an Oriental beauty. Not content, however, with her good looks, she had her eyebrows darkened, a delicate black line under her eyes, and a little well-applied rouge and powder (I regret to confess) made her, at a little distance, a still more brilliant beauty. I doubt if any women understand the use of cosmetics as wel as these harem ladies. Her dress was a bright, cherry silk, the waist cut low in front, the skirt reaching to her knees. Trousers of the same, and slippers to match, completed her costume. The other wife was equally attractive, with lovely bine eyes, and soft, wavy hair. She wa9 dressed in a white Broussa silk waist, richly embroidered with enmson and gold braid, blue silk skirt, white trousers and yellow slippers. They both had on a great deal of jewelry. Several sets, I should think, were disposed about their persons with great effect, though not in what we should consider very good taste. Being only able to wear one pair of ear-rings, they had the extra pairs fastened to their braids, which were elaborately arranged about their heads and hung down behind. There were half a dozen slaves in the room, who, when not waiting on their mistresses, squatted on the floor, smoked and listened to the conversation. Coffee was brought almost immediately, the cups of lovely blue and white china in pretty silver holders, tray of gilt filigree.

After sitting here a while, exchanging the compliments of the day, we passed to the next room, a large saloon with windows and door opening into the court. Here a fountain threw up a sparkling jet of water, and several trees and flowering shrubs with, a profusion of ivy on the walls made it a very attractive place. The child of the eldest wife, a brighteyed little boy, was floating chips in the basin of the fountain, laughing and clapping his hands when the falling water upset them or wet his face. The floor of the apartment was covered with large, handsome rugs, and had luxurious divans around the sides—little other furniture seems necessary in a Turkish house. We followed our hostess’ example and seated ourselves on the divans, though not as they did, with their feet under them, and refreshments were served on a large gilt salver in the middle of which was a handsome-covered dish of Bohemian glass, on a gold stand, filled with sweetmeats, and on each side were vases to match, one holding queershaped little spoons with golden bowls. There were also four glasses of water and four minute little glasses of pale yellow cordial. Fortunately the tray was passed first to M<ne. L , so I watched her movements and knew what to do. She took a spoon from one vase, dipped it in the sweetmeats, and, after eating, placed her spoon in the empty vase. Then she took some water and drank a glass of cordial. So we each did (it is polite to taste but once), and placing the soiled spoon in the vase for that purpose. 1 did not need to be told that the sweetmeats were rose leaves, for the flavor was perfectly preserved. , Mme. L kindly repeated most of the conversation, which was chiefly composed on their side questions concerning Mme. L ’s was her husband as kind to her as ever, had he made her any presents I married, my husband’s personal ."pearance, did L love him, how old I was, where from and where going to? These and similar questions they asked with the curiosity of children. They are the topics usually discussed when their friends visit them and are considered perfectly public and proper. Then we were invited into a third room, where we were served with violet sherbet,cake and Turkish paste. After partaking of these the ladies sent for their jewel-boxes and displayed their treasures, which consisted of pins, ear-rings, necklaces, head and belt ornaments, some very handsome, and all composed of precious stones of more or less value; for a Turkish woman does not value an ornament that is not set with precious stones. This was an agreeable change from the former conversation, and when we had admired their jewels breakfast was served. The servants brought a scarlet rug of soft, shaggy stuff, which was spread on the floor; a low, round brass table, two feet high and three feet in diameter, was placed in the center of this rug and we four ladies seated ourselves around the table a la Turk. A servant brought a brass basin which was like an immense wash-bowl, with a colander in it, turned upside down; we Washed our hands over this, water being poured over them from a large coffee-pot (I should call it) with an unusually long nose, and wiped our hands on handsotne towels embroidered at the ends with gold thread. A dish of small Med fish was placed on the table for the first course; each helped herself tc one, laying it on the table before her (we had no plates, knives or forks), picking it to pieces and eating if with her fingers. When this was ended the debris was thrown on the platter and removed, the table wiped off, and a dish of rice and mutton brought; for this we had spoons, but all ate from the dish. Then came an immense cauliflower covered thick with strange-tasting cheese, and here the Turkish ladies used their thumb and two first fingers in conveying it to their mouths. lam very fond of Cauliflower, but this was not inviting. The next course was onions cooked in oil; I had to be excused from this also; the sight of their dripping fingers was enough. Then we washed our hands and ate oranges; washed again and, lighting fresh cigarettes ( they had smoked nearly all day), retired to our divans, sipped coffee, and listened to aa old negress (the story-teller of the harem), who, squatted before us„ ’related marvelous stories in Eastern style. More sweetmeats and confection-

ery were passed with coffee, and our visit ended. A European woman could support tfuch a life— at home perfect inactivity, eating, smoking, gossiping, an occasional visit to or from a friend, a trip to the bazaar, and a drive—if they possess a carriage—or a tow in a caique to the Sweetwaters on Sunday. This is the life of a Turkish woman of rank.— Constantinople Letter to N. Y. Observer.