Rensselaer Union, Volume 7, Number 20, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 4 February 1875 — Dresses and Bonnets in Paris. [ARTICLE]

Dresses and Bonnets in Paris.

Dresses longer and longer, and clinging closer and closer, witn ail the trimmings imaginable and not yet imagined —such is the aspect of the present toilets Large perpendicular pleats, some in the middle of the back and qthers on the sides bordering the tabfrer and form ing its revers—sued are the most popular features, if any preference can be discerned amidst so much variety. Bows made either of ribbon or of the material of the dress, flounces, puffs, ruches, bias folds, fringe and lace—such are the elements from which are combined the trimmings of dresses. Steel buttons in the form of a star are new, and form a simple and effective ornament of gray velvet toilets. The association of two shades of the same color, one very dark and the other very light, or else of two different colors, w ill be largely used during the coming spring. Very dark blue-gray and very light blue-gray are the fashionable shades. Among the different colors that apt tHtHmui ii in “ tiftsb, iittW wn K fi <vrc seen oftenest together are gray and blue, olive bronze an i blue, flesh pink or salmon and garnet, and violet ami light green. The dressmakers of the day are forced to study painting, or at least the works of colorists, for the least doubful combination would make this fashion a ridiculous fright. If every dress has a different trimming it must be added that there has never been seen so great a diversity in the shape of waists and sleeves. Although the cuirass or armor waist is universally worn for street dresses as well as for evening toilets, it must not be concluded that these are all alike. It is true that all participate in the same style; hut as every lady has a number of dresses, she naturally wishes them to vary in style. The waists are therefore made with round points in front and basques turned up behind; with revers, single or double breasted, and buttoned at thg-sideg with-heart-shaped or square necks, or closed at the throat and opening below over a vest; but always, and above all, with a profusion oi jet embroidery or jet braid And this is by no means the old-fashioned passamenterie braid mixed with jet, but the braid is entirely composed of jet, the long, hollow beads of which, in the shape of tubes, arc strung together without interruption, so as to form long, glittering ribbons, with which waists of all materials are striped, evening and ball dresses being covered with them, as well as those for the street. Bonnets are decidedly, though imperceptibly, increasing in size. Each new bonnet is a little larger than its predecessor; and this progress will lead us on, without suspecting it, to lite. large .brims which a n have announced for straw hats. For spring bonnets there is in preparation the ancient Fanchon shape, but enlarged and modified, and covered with a mantilla of black lace embroidered with jet, and confined on one side byStt cluster of roses without leaves - a true Castilian bonnet, which is appropriately termed VEspagnol. There is also in preparation both for the present season and for the earliest spring-time a great variety of felt bonnets. Fashion has just decreed that felt is more elegant than velvet; nothing, moreover, is prettier when the bonnet is well made and wisely chosen, without exaggeration of any kind. The Charles 11., a black felt bonnet with a broad brim, turned up on one side ever a large black leather, which falls backward, is charming for a pretty blonde. Mixed bonnets —that is, of faille and velvet, or gauze and velvet or faille—are trimmed with jet (leaves and flow ers), and also with flowers and fruit; there are branches of cherries, bearing at the same time the blossoms, the green and the ripe fruit, which are charming. I know well that this is heresy from the botanical standpoint, but fashion never troubles itself much about the exact sciences, but lavishes on coiffures grapes of all colors and kytds, even of gold, which have nevef ripened, that I know of, on any vine, and perches a tropical bird on a European plant, without earing lor probability. The fashion of Woolen fabrics continues, and is adapted to all occasions. For instance, a dinner dress which I sawyesterday in preparation, and which is destined for a very wealthy and extremely elegant young married lady, was composed as follows: Very long skirt of pink faille, trimmed with ruches of the Same faille raveled out on each side almost their entire w idth, thus resembling so many bands of feathers, but lighter even than feathers themselves, and, at all events, more brilliant. In front these ruches were arranged in curves on the bottom of the skirt, while in the back they extended up very high. Tablier of India cashmere of a paler shade of pink than the skirt, trimmed with similar rhehes and tied behind -under a bow of pink faille ribbon three-eighths of a yard | wide. Corsage open en cunt, but arranged in such a manner as to simulate ! a lailie corsage, over which was worn a | cashmere corsage shorter than the first. i Faille sleeves with cashmere trimmings, ; reaching to the elbow, with full under : sleeves of fine lace. The same lace edged the neck of the corsage. The dress was ; completed by a parure of diamonds and garnets en cabochon, composed of a necklace with pendants and a large breastp ate. These garments arc considered as representing the dark shade of the j toilet. In the hair mm worn simply a . rose supporting a butterfly of diamonds and garnets. Stuffs. 1 tees, passementerie, fur and i feathers are no longer deemed sufficient tor tile trimmings of dresses. Metal even is mixed with them, i, Large plates or buckles of gold or silver are used to | fasten the drapings of over-skirts and ■ tablirrs. And even these are not enough; | little chains of gold and silver are added, I according to the dress and its ornaments, i I mention the fact only to fulfill the duty w-bicn makes it incumbent on me to chronicle everything that is worn, but I refuse my approbation to this strange fashion and hope and believe that it will continue to be stamped an extravagance. It would be strange if we»sbould choose the instant when we have become a republic to cover ourselves with chains.— Harpers Bazar. —The past yew was a busy one with Maine ship-builders, the record showing the total amount of tonnage built wTbe 1*22.549 74-100, an increase of 32,720 97-100 tons over the record of 1873.