Rensselaer Union, Volume 1, Number 7, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 12 November 1868 — Fashion. [ARTICLE]

Fashion.

THE FASHIOSN. Mew Ntylei t>> Silk*, Popllni, Serge*, Haiti, UJov«i, I.acel «u<i Lingerie Jewelry, Ae. r (prom tlnrf W.-T: Po*t; lata, j ' The approach of tho “fall opening" has brought a revival of trade, and the lending dry goods merchants are doing a very good hnsinesH. -Thereina prospectnf a greater demand for the better pualities of goods in a short time. Silks and other ’ rich imported fabrics arc held at about the same prices as last yiear, but domestic cotton goods are much lower, and it is thought there will b<uu further decline in prices, as the value of raw material is decreasing. < Very good ordinary prints nre held at twelve cents a yard and tho bettor grades of blenched shirtings are much lower than last season.

} SII.KS. 1 ? The silks recently imported are rich and elegant, but there are not so ninny novelttes now ns during some prenous scaso’is, and it is yet too early to decide iVTint will bo the most fashionable color,-'nnd shade for dinner and evening dressqk Striped satin, in black and green, or black mid lavender, or black aud red, or black and gold color, is fashionable for undeiskirts. Over these are worn shorter skirts of plain chameleon changeable silk, or of shot silk of some harmonizing color. • The chameleon and shop silks are much worn now, mid trimmed with folds or ruffles, or eroiiscut bunds of the same material, instead of satin folds, as formerly. All black silk is no longer worn iu I’nris, in dresiinor mute —the blue-black silk being much iu vogue there, Ohamoleou silks on a dark gfonnd, shot with some color, me worn there in suits, and are elegant Old church jiurple, blue-black, invisible green, nnd nearly all the old-fashioned colors are becoming faßhionable. Blank hM Leteii worn so generally that a change seemed desirable. For softer tints for evening ami dinner dress, shades of -grayarte still worn, and trimmed With rich lace, having Inch sashes to match. For full dress occasions, satins —the grounds in the delicate shades of blue, green, lavender and peqrl-rhroeaded, iu sprays of flowers and clusters of leaves, beautifully wrought in silver and gold, are much in vogue, requiring little trimming, and are very elegant. The late importations in.f/azc de ehambery are very elegant mid m’listicthe ground-work being, of some delicate tint ’The flowers variegated in bright cheerful colors. These are intended more particularly for young misses. RJSAVY MATERIAT.S. There is more than the usual variety of heavy materials for.winter wear on exhibition, with the prices about the same, ns last year. The French poplins will be much used for street wear during the fall months. These are chameleon, purple and gold, or red and blue, as well as in plain self-colors. The satin poplin is a novelty, and very desirable for the underskirt, With a silk overskirt, or for short dresses, and can be obtained in all the favorite colors. A brown satin poplin, shot witlr gold color, fs new and quite attractive. Then there is the all-wool poplin, a new material, very durable and making desirable traveling suite for winter wear. The skirting is a new material'of American manufacture, nearly two yards wide, and will be very serviceable. It is striped, black and white, and will not be injured by the iwn. Scotch plaids in green, blue and brown, in Woolen, will be much used for carriage wraps this season. The gaver plaids, ,m fine material, will be in- vogue fbr house wear and for misses. A novelty among English serges is a reversible serge, that is twilled on bo(h sides, and when one side ’becomes soiled can be turned. This surpasses all other serges for durability. French serge is not reversible, but softer and richer in appearance than the English serge. A rich silk velour, of the dark shade o gray, will be much used for bridal travel ing dresses, making elegant suits; but Irish poplin makes the most elegant bridal traveling suits. Cashmere for winter morning robes is in every stylo of desirable pattern, from the subdued tints to the most brilliant. moukntno ooou.

There is the usual variety of mourning goods, bombazine being still held as the most desirable for full mourning. Tamise cloth, a heavy material composed of silk and woollen, is used for winter dresses. Crape cloth is still fashionable, but it does not wear as handsomely as many other materials. Biarritz cloth, poplins and alapaca are worn in slight mourning. SUITS. A novelty in suits is of lustreless black silk. It is made with a flounce five inches wide around the bottom of tjje skirt, and plaited jn fan form, headed by a narrow ruffle in box plaits. The ruffle and flourice are bound in garnet silk-. Bows of silk with garnet are set upon the ruffle, the space eiug about one-third of a yard ’m.---- n HKfrtTs'eilgcd with black silk fringe and garnet tassel. The skirt is very full and open at the back, caught up a la pannier', and joined with bows like those on the lower skirt Over this is worn a small cape extending to tho belt at the baek, with slight points a finger’s length from the centre. It is low in the neok, narrow in the shoulder, and crossing jn front with short lappels. This cape is trimmed with fringe with four bows on the back. A black silk suit has a wide flounce around the bottom of the skirt; the overskirt is quite short, and trimmed with black tassel fringe, above which are folds of the same. The belt has a bow in front, also at the back, and the sleeves are turned back in cuffs and trimmed in folds. A handsome suit is of purple silk, and trimmed with satin gimpof the same shade. The overskirt is deep ami full at the back, sloping up to the sides, where it is festooned with cord and tassel. This skirt is plaited at the neck in wide plaits—the belt passing through the silk, so that these plaits hang loosely over the waist. A Bismarck suit is trimmed with ribbon of a lighter shade. It has a with sleeves, and over this a small circular cape. A striped silk is richly trimmed with berthas edged with ft inge. The new style of French cape will be worn with suits. It is novel and very becoming to a good figure. A pretty suit is of wood color, the over-skirt festopned at the sides, and the front trimmed with cross-cut bands, and having one of the. new style French capes. The suits are all elaborately trimmed, made pannier skirt, or very full at tpc back, to be worn over the bustle. Creaks will not be as much worn on the street as formerly; v.nits will be lined with pelise-wadding, making them of sufficient warmth for ordinary winter weather:' yet Olenka arc not to bo wholly discarded, as they urc iiidiSfiensablc on an extremely cold day.

1 OEOVES. The. styles, ’in Alexandru’s*' kids for fall wear arc iiniisually attractive, 'being in all - the high eokira and in - every shade, ‘wYfli’ cord and tassel to match. The lighter colors, for evening wear, range from the most delicate tint to the strongest shade, and are wrought upon the back with some contrasting colors. Ths ordinary duchess glove haseight gold stud" ujion the back of the wrist, the centre row of the crochet passing between them; and have two eyelets, a cord an.il tassel, and are clasped by two studs. A novelty in the duchess has a deeper band, with a , welt of some edutnistiag color, with twelve gold butbous on the back, sixkbove the welt and six helow. The gloves arc clasped by two movable studs (u new invention by Mr. Edward Francis), connected by a chain firuily attached to one, apd passing through a slide of the other, is held by an elevated anchor,' pressing a link of the chain. This chain 'is ornamental as well as useful. There are three modes of fastening the glove in yogne —the “tirettc" with two tassels, hook and eye, the secured stud and the movable stud adapted to the use of the chain. ; ' j .: . . ; —v— —. The ordinary-gloves hwveno studs on the back. The reddish brown, in every variety of shade, will be the prevailing

color ia gloves lor street wear. The brown is much Imndaomer tliun the old-fashioned brown. The different shades of liivtuoler and gray will also be worn with shits when harmonizing in color, A new and fashionable color in kid is the “tytane," ft ininkle tinted red, much admired by thosuwUD prefrr Romcthtng livelier than the brown, and shades of wood color ara still much

sought after. For evening wear there are lavaudor, cream color, stnyy enjoy, pearl .'inrl snlmnn Colors, from th* most dulicatn shades to the deepest. White gloves stitched with black, and black ,welt, are much worn; also black with white Welt, eord and tuwuils. For full dress occasions the white and light shades'arc made to come ip high,, and are churned by three or more studs. The “Casimlre;” kid, is also made up in all nbades, and many ladies prefer them for ordinary wear. Cloth gloves for winter are in. admirable shades of gray and mixed, of soft texture, and in all sizes from the iiifauts’ and ladies’ Size. Something newly imported are the English kid in both gloves au<] mitts, and lined With jilfish or laml?s wool. These ore very desirable (lor carriage wear and skating.

LACES ANO UNOEHIE. Most of the new lace collars are pointed in front a la t>halcf.ipeare. A novelty is a Style having deep points in front, smaller points on the shoulder, a slight one at the back, with two exquisitely wrought lace ends falling from the buck' iu oily to the belt. A narrow straight collar has long leuf-ahupod ends crossing in front; another bus short ends, the same form, liandu for the sleeves thatch the collar, and with the handkerchief complete the set. Veils are small. A real Chantilly musk wil can be pitrcliasi d for forty-five'’dollars. Lace sashes, both while and blnck.wiU be worn over rich silk for dress. Llama lace dresses, troth black and white, with low corsage,are very fashionable, worn oyer silk, tor full dress. These are tjnite full at the back, and tall over the silk in graceful folds. - Coifl'ures pi point arc still in vogue, but there is nothing very novel in design. A novelty is the face fan in pearl ’an<T white satin, with white point over the satin.— Another us pearl hns orimauu satin covered with black Chantilly. Chemisettes are made of Valenciennes luce, with cuffs to match, and are worn with the open bodice of surplice waist Very pretty chemisettes wo also made of Swiss muslin and lace insertion. In linen collars, the plain round Ones are much f°’ j the .pellw with points on the bhohlfler, ctqleq the ‘‘‘Siulpr, do not win "fafftf. ' T'heTbuid collar and cuff in striped linen, is new, and has mild rapidly during the past week, Tim white muslin Marie Antoinette fiehns are very stylish fbr dress, and can be worn over any color. VULCANITE JEWELRY. The new designs in jewelry arc fanciful and tiuiqtft,’ and are made in rubber. The gold used in vulcanite jewelry is eighteen carats fine, and does pot tarnish. A new design is a cylinder with three bands of gold and pendants dotted with gold, forming thepin; the ear-rings are to match.— Another set is fern-leaf shape, with gold dots. Chatelaines, bracelets, belt-buckles, sleeve buttons, studs ancl pins mounted in gold are mueh worn. The pen-holder and pencil, in rubber, is handsomely ornamented with gold, and desirable, as it fa only two and ft half inches long when closed. The rubber fan is a novelty; the one style closing, the other similar strips to leaf fan. There is a desirable improvement on the rubber enp > for railway travelers, the rings being attached to a plate that, when dosed, forms the box. Ladies’ and children’s glovetfin rubber are useful for gardening or dusting, keeping the hands moist. varieties. Among the novelties from France are fans of pearl beautifully carved in flowers, and very desirable for opera. . The adjustable bust is a new invention. It is formed of hoop-steel springs, with a metalic band, to which is attached a short upright that rests against the form. A similar band is fastened to the springs, and gives the “Grecian Bend.” There is a new style of hoop-skirt, made with this bustle, and called “L'Elite."