Rensselaer Republican, Volume 26, Number 16, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 14 December 1893 — THE FAIR SEX. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

THE FAIR SEX.

THE NEW SVHPLIdI BODICE. Record. The suplice bodice is one of the early autumn styles that all women will hail with a hearty welcome. It is graceful in the extreme, and suited to both the slender and the stout, and may be adorned with any skirt. To make it requires two yards and a half of double width material. It

is suited to all soft woolen stuffs, to soft finished silk, crepes —in short to anything that will cling to the figure and take graceful folds. The tabs may be any length one prefers. Some are made to knot and to fall to.the hem of the gown; some to fall only a little below the waist, and some to the knees. Whatever the length you determine on it has to do only with the tab or scarf; general directions are the same for all. First cut an ordinary basque lining.letting it extend only one inch below the waist, and fit it with care. Cover the backs and under-arm pieces as you would for a plain basque; but cover in the points with some contrasting material laid in pleats or shirred, and so far as will make the vest. Stitch all seams except the shoulder and first under-arms, and bone them with care; then face the lower edge of the basque. When all that is done cut the surplice front. Lay down the front of your basque pattern upon the cutting table. Over it lay a length of cloth, as th« diagram shows.. The line B-D represents the selvedge of the goods The space A-B should measure jus two inches. Cut out the armholt and cut along the-seam line to the point E, which should fall one inch below the waist line. Slope the

.noth to the point F, a distance of sixteen inches, so that at that point its width F-G shall be eight inches. From there continue on a straight line to the end of the scarf, so that it shall be of the same width from that point to the end. A length of one yard and threeeighths from F to the extreme end—-sixty-six inches from the under-arm seam —will allow a knot and ends that fall nearly to the knee. If you wish the scarf to be either longer oi shorter simply alter its length belou the point F. Baste the simple scarf to the fitted bodice at the shoulder and at the un-der-arm seams which you have left unstitched. Then stitch all together. Bone the under-arm seams and press the shoulder seams. Finish the neck with a crush collar of the same material as the vest. If you wish a dressy toilet edge the scarf with some appropriate fancy braid of fine passmenterie. Or, if you have the time, embroider sortie simple pattern or braid some simple device along its entire edge. Both the latter styles of trimming are much in vogue and either will make a tasteful, elegant finish.

Use any of the drooping puffed sleeves. Long one reaching to thf wrist will be’best for day wear; full elbow puffs will be suitable for eithei dinner or evening dress. When you wear the bodice button the undervest tightly in place; then draw down the surplice front, cross at the waist, pass once entirely round and knot at the left side.— Olivia Bell. - The only female custom-house broker perhaps in the world—certainly the only one in this country—is Mrs. BuldaGroser, of Cincinnati. She is only twenty-one years old and inherited the business from hei father a year ago. JSer business is Large and profitable.

THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE WAIST.

THE WAIST COMPLETE.