Rensselaer Republican, Volume 25, Number 14, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 1 December 1892 — THE LADIES. [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

THE LADIES.

The Art of Dress.

A FASHIONABLY dressed woman is not always well dressed. It is one thing to buy a bonnet and quite another to know how to wear it. Somehas said that youth is always beautiful; this is no more true than to say that youth is always graceful. In rare cases women have an instinctive sense of the becoming, but as a rule the art of dressing be-

comingly must be learned, like any other art, by close study and deep application. I know a lady who always maked a point to send to Paris for her bonnets, and when I meet her I feel like advising her to send for a French woman to show her how to wear them. She would then learn that a French woman wears her bonnet, on her head, and not perched on a towering coil of hair in an altogether ridiculous manner. Nor does a French woman ever allow a train to drag behind her on the sidewalk, exercising the functions of a street sweeper. And speaking of skirts, let me call your attention to the fact that in all woolen materials it is customary to set off the skirt with a ruching of the same material. But it is possible to display a great deal of taste in this matter of ruches. One way is to make a double ruching composed ot two pleats set close together and pinked out on each edge. Another style is to set a single ruffle at the bottom and bead-it with guipure lace. Some, however, prefer the skirt quite plain, as shown in my initial illustration. Here you see a charming outdoor costume which may be made up either in wool or silk. In -this instance’ it has a cream ground with a red figure. It will be noted that this dress consists of two parts, a skirt and aredingote The plastron pud sleeve puffs are of red silk. At the back there is a half belt of the silk, and the cuffs are turned back with the silk. The yoke is covered with ecruo guipure.

A New House Gown.

Y readers to the number of half a dozen have written to ask why I did not give fashion sketches of backs as well as fronts. So I do. every once in a while.and right! here I show two views of a n e w housegown. It may be taken as a model by those who make their b w n dresses, who want to see how skirts are now being cut. au d drapped. A

pleasing variety is discernible in the newest designs for costumes: and while there are several radical changes in the length of skirt and the fashioning of the bodice’ it may bo safely asserted that if each woman will wear individually the style that suits her best, she will be able to in- I dulge in the pleasiug conviction that j

she is dressed in the most perfect taste. This rule applies to all season s; for there is no more i n artistic sight than a woman costumed according to the latest mode when this particular style does not suit her figure or complexion

The Queen of Portugal is accred - tted by fashion leaders with being the most dressy woman in Europe. Her pale complexion and auburn hair admit of great latitude in dress variety, and she indulges in every caprice of fashion. The Empress of Russia wears everything small and neat, to harmonize with her delicate personality. Pale, blue, mauve, and green are her favorite colors. The Princes of Wales has the reputation Of being the most tastefully dressed of all the royalties. The Empress of Germany Is resplendent in the traditionally imperial style of ornate elegance in public, but in private dressqs very simply. And the heart broken Empress of Austria cares nothing at all for dress, but spends her leisure hours ,in the study of modern Greek, in whieb language ■be converses well with a Grecian attendant who is always with her. Dr. John E. Owen, medical direc tor of the Chicago Exposition, in compliance with u request from the tedy managers, has promised to put women upon bis staff and allow them

to rank in all respects equal with men in the Exposition hospital. There will be also a hospital in the Womans Building fully equipped frith physicians and trained nurses. A London housewife engaging a servant recently was startled by the modeal .request. « “Vou-will. allow, me, ma’am, an evening a week for’ my violin lessons.” In the next ceiltury Hie serving maS witb a soul not cultured above dusters and silver polish will be a more rare type than has been the woman senior wrangle) and Doctor of Philosophy in this the woman’s evcle.

Long Cloaks in Style.

SEASON of fancifully fashionable overgarments is at hand, and so thin women are at an advantage over the thick ones. Many a stylish mantle or cloak won’t do for broad figures. A typical garment in the new styles is herewith depicted. It wouldn’t look its best on a lavishly rounded woman. However, gentle

reader, don’t mind if you are plump. Men always like plump women. Not fat, of course, but a woman can be very plump before she is fat. The outlines may not be the most beautiful in the world, but smoothness goes a great way. The initial fashion plate shows a dolmau. or palatine, made, of chinchilla goods and ornamented with lace and ribbons. At the front joining of the sleeves with the front breadths, folds of gray silk are placed. The face, falling in the form of a collarette and forming a straight collar, is ornamented with bows ol gray ribbon.

One'View of Society. Now York Times. The truth about modern polite society is that it exerts no moral force whatever, and, indeed, seems to have no conscience; and it acknowledges no serious obligations to the world. It exists for pleasure and display: it exerts no good influence; it inspires no one to lofty aims; it is not wholesome. Here in New York, where we are still very young, and where polite society is still as distinctively moral as it is dull—in spite of the sporadic outbursts of a few scions of ancient families, whosi cubbshness is not excelled by the gilded youth of Britain, but who are greatly restrained by their environment —the respect for good conduct, the gentleness and simplicity that distinguishes the smaller “society’ of a half century ago have vanished and left nothing to boast of in their places.

A PRETTY GOWN.

THE DANCING FAD.