Rensselaer Republican, Volume 16, Number 45, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 17 July 1884 — WORKSHOP ITEMS. [ARTICLE]

WORKSHOP ITEMS.

A suitable plage for everything, and everything » in its place. A proper time for everything, and everything done in its time. A distinct name for everything, and everything [ called by its name. A certain use for everything, and everything put to its use. Tempering Tools.—A tool, after it has been forged, should be so hardened or tempered that it will never want to come to the fire again until it is so worn down that it requires reforging. This saves the time lost in a second hardening, and it avoids the damage always done to the cutting power by rebar lening without forging. ' Black Dye eor Wood.—First sponge the wood with a solution of chlorGydrate of aniline in water, to which a small quantity of cHornle is added. Allow it to dry, and go over it with a solution of potassium bichromate. Repeat the process twice or thrice, and the wood will take a fine black color, unaffected by light or chemicals. Glue to Resist Moisture.—The preparations are: One pound of glue melted in two quarts of skimmed milk. If stronger glue is required add powdered chalk to common glue. Another receipt for marine glue is: One part of India rubber, twelve parts of mineral naphtha or coal tar; heat gently, mix and add twenty parts of powdered shellac. Pour out on a slab to cool. When used to be heated to about 250 degrees. A good glue cement to resist moisture may also be made as follows: One part glue, one part of black resin and one-quarter part of red ochre, mixed with the least possible quantity of water; or, four parts glue, one part of boiled oil (by weight) and one part of oxide of iron. Iron Paint.—A recent German invenfion, composed bf pulverized iron and linseed varnish, is intended for covering damp wails, outer walls, and, in short, any place or vessel exposed to the action of the open air and weather. Should the article to lie painted be exposed to frequent changes of temperature, linseed oil varnish apd amber varnish are mixed with the paint intended for the first two coats, without the addition of any artificial drying medium. The first coat is applied rather thin, the second a little thicker, and the last in rather a fluid state. The paint is equally adapted as weatherproof coating for wood, stone, and iron; nor is it necessary/o previously free the latter from rust, grease, etc., a superficial cleaning being sufficient. The paint will prove a valuable auxiliary to manufacturers.

Somebody says large articles of brass and copper which have become very much soiled may be cleaned by a mixture of rotten-stone (or any sharp polishing powder) with a strong solution of oxalic acid. After being thoroughly cleaned the metal should be wiped off with a cloth moistened with soda or potash, and a very light coating of oilshould be applied to prevent the further corroding action of the acid. A more powerful cleaning agent, because more corrosive, is finely powdered chromate of potash mixed with twice its bulk of strong sulphuric acid, diluted (after standing an hour or so) with an equal bulk of water. This will instantly clean the dirtiest brass, but great care must be taken in handling the liquid, as it is very corrosive. Brass which has been lacquered should never be cleaned with polishing powders or corrosive chemicals. Wiping with a soft cloth is sufficient, and in some cases washing with weak soap and water may be admissible. Dry the articles thoroughly, taking care not to scratch them, and if after this they show much sign of wear and corrosion send them to the lacquerer to be refinished.-