Rensselaer Journal, Volume 11, Number 28, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 19 December 1901 — FOR WOMEN AND HOME [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

FOR WOMEN AND HOME

ITEMS OF INTEREST FOR MAIDS AND MATRONS. Kougfnm fM b Widespread s of the Latest Style of Skirt — Seme of the More Fashionable Color* —Preponderance of White. BO MX FASHIONABLE COLORS. Green is certainly a favorite color at present, both for day and evening wear. From the palest shimmering silver green, which is so artistic, to the pronounced hunter’s green, through such varieties as olive and myrtle, it represents a fascinating gamut of shades. Laurel, rainette, chartreusse, forest and lichen are new names given to the various shades, A clear, fresh forester is a popular shade for street wear, especially when combined with black and white. Almost pastel in its character is a new silvery green called willow, which is almost as subdued and soft as a delicate gray, though it is more becoming 1 6 the average complexion, usually very much tried by gray. For evening, the very lightest shades are used with a preponderance of Nile green. Bed is undoubtedly very popular. It Is worn more for entire costumes this year than for many seasons past, ami It is also fashionable in hats and for trimmings. The new reds range from the bright shades to the tints of crimson purple. Scarlet, cardinal, claret, currant, flamingo, cranberry, ruby and garnet are among the favorite reds. Cerise and coral are among the lighter tints. The various shades of brown are also In evidence, especially chestnut and coffee tones and a certain chocolate hue. A Paris Idea Is to combine several shades of the same color in one gown; for instance, a dark brown slbellne may be trimmed with zibeline of a lighter brown and with vest and collar of orange. Red, blue and green are treated in the. same way. Brawn is also effective with creamy white vests and yellowish lace. The latter is very graceful if threaded with turquoise or black velvet. Many of the handsomest laces are treated in this manner, and while it is a case of gilding the lily, the effect is what is desired, as it serves to bring out the pattern. For such threading, chenille is often employed, though velvet baby ribbon is used with the very coarse lace. SKIRTS STILL TIGHT-FITTING. ' Skirts flt tighter to the hips and flare more widely below the knee than ever before. The sheath skirt to the knee is the correct style, made with flve and sometimes even seven gores. In order to preserve the clinging effect, various contrivances for under-petti-coats have appeared in the shops. The “garter-petticoat” has obtained some prominence owing to its oddity, but Is not likely'to be universally adopted. It consists of two little ruffled petticoats fastened below the knee by broad elastic bands. The object Is to leave the figure free of encumbrances so that the skirt may fit perfectly above the knee, yet preserve the necessary fullness below. Another petticoat, called the "skeleton" and designed for the same purpose as the one just described, consists In its upper part of strips of ribbon sewed a couple of inches apart to a belt and Joined at the knee with the regulation accordion-pleated or ruffled circular flounce. To stout figures these devices for obtaining slender effects are welcome. The majority of women, however, are content with a well-fitting sheath «kirt, Bpreading below the knee into a sea of ruffles. All of which goes, to show that

aklrts must be clinging. This pretty gown, an attractive fall model, is, of dark blue veiling. The skirt is made with vertical tucks and a circular flounce headed by stitched bands. Mexican stitching is inserted between the breadths, Corticellt embroidery silk being used for the purpose. The belt is covered with rows of stitching, as are also the bands trimming the lace collar. MODEL EVENING GOWN. „ Skirts are also long. They lie upon the floor in front and at the sides as well as having the decided sweep at the back. Walking costumes, to be used distinctly as such, are made Just to clear the ground all around, bat they

arc cut with such a flare that they ap* pear longer than they really are. The short, tailor-made costume has never obtained the .popularity in Paris that It has enjoyed in London and New York. With the long,' graceful coats now fashionable, the long skirt is imperative. The flat back is universally popular, the old box-pleated back being now rarely seen. There is an effort to introduce the pleated back, but its success is doubtful. For slender figures a tew gathers, a little shirring, or a cluster of fine tucks are sometimes used, the fullness Spreading below in a sort of fan. The Havet model evening gown shown here was imported from the establishment of Mme. Havet, Pariß. It is of black lace over double linings of white chiffon and white taffeta. The black lace is further ornamented with an applique of white lace, spangled canary-colored chiffon and raised flowers of black and yellow cbenile and velvet. Tiny, lacebordered chiffon ruffles edge the hem of the skirt The low-cut bodice is fur-

H«v«t Modal Evening Gown, t ram John Wammaker, Broadway, N. Y. ther trimmed with narrow black velvet ribbon, which also decorates the elbow sleeves and is fastened over the arms with small rhinestone buckles. The full puff of the under sleeve is of the canary chiffon. THE MONOGRAM FAD. Monograms are omnipresent this season. The swell girl has her monogram handsomely embroidered on the knee or on the instep of her Bilk stocking. Even the domestic underwear, taking a leaf from the book of the French chemise and corset cover, bears a dainty monogram. A monogram on the backs of gloves is the last cry of fashion with women who aim at the unusual, and for the woman with less courage in her convictions there is the glove with a monogram embroidered on the wrist or, in the case of long gloves, at the top. One of the most stunning shirt waists of the season.is of heavy silk in plain color, with a large monogram embroidered on the sleeve. Just above the right cuff, and another stylish waist has the monogram upon the small pocket on the left breast The more exclusive men’s furnishing shops display marvelous silk pajamas, in light blue, pink and violet, with large monograms in black and white. Umbrella covers wear small but striking embroidered monograms. Linens have, of course, always displayed monograms, if the expense did not bar their owner from the indulgence. So, too, there have always been persons who sported monograms on their china and glass, but dealers say that the fad grows more and more common. One of the lat est developments of the monogram fad Is the candle shade of fine gold or silver tracery with a raised monogram in repousse gold or silver on the side of the shade. Under these, of course, silk shades in any color mtly be used, and even a single candlestick fitted out with a candle and such a shade is no mean present for a woman of fastidious tastes and much of this world’s goods. ONE SCHEME OF COLOR. One scheme of color with/ very little contrast of any sort is evidently the correct thing for real aristocratic elegance. If the gown is blue the hat and boa are blue also, relieved only by a bit of lace or a flower and a delicate touch of black In the finish of the bodice. The contrast when there is a decided one of any sort is..in the hat, which may be black and white, or a combination of both. WHITE VERY MUCH USED. A great feature of prevailing modes is the preponderance of white. Among furs, ermine is much in evidence. Miniver, the royal ermine, has been revived in the preparations for King Edward’s coronation; it is ermine with small sealskin spots scattered over It Instead of the customary black tails. It Is used for entire garments or for reyers, collar and cuffs. HATS AND COSTUMES. A chinchilla hat with a gun metal gray velvet costume is the perfection of good taste; trimmed only with a little blue velvet and two or three handsome rhinestone ornaments; All the shades of fawn color are evidently worn In velvet and cloth as well, add there Is a new pink shade of tan which seems to be popular.

An Attractive Fall Modal. Courtesy of Rock & Torpey, New York.