People's Pilot, Volume 3, Number 30, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 12 January 1894 — ACROSS THE DEEP. [ARTICLE]

ACROSS THE DEEP.

Some of the Beauties of Mother England. Halle, a. s., Dec. 18, ’93. A ride of a few hours from Chester brought us to the city of Lichfield. But why should we stop at Lichfield, a small city with only about 8,000 people? Any lover of the magnificent periods of Samuel Johnson, or who has learned to appreciate the beautiful art of David Garrick, or who loves to honor the genius and freshness of the words of Addison could not pass this place, where many of the boyhood days of these great souls were passed, and which furnished much of the environment, which built their characters. Besides, we were to see our first great English cathedral. We had learned to watch for the city by the three great spires of the cathedral. So we sat with our eyes fastened on the distant horizon in waiting for the objects of our destination. As we passed through a small cut, suddenly the three spires burst forth in the evening sky in all their airy splendor, and it was not long till we were in the midst of the quiet, boyhood home of Johnson and Addison. Our stay could not be long, and the principal object of our visit was constantly in our sight. One could scarcely cast the eye from those spires of grace and symmetry, and as we gradually approached the old cathedral, the day was gradually expiring, and in the quiet twilight of a beautiful evening in July we stood, gazed, wondered and tried to drink in the symmetry and beauty of that dream fashioned in stone. We are told that these old cathedrals are “frozen music.” Yes, one of the grand symphonies of Beethovan or W&gner! Harmony is the one principle, back of all beauty, whether it be in music, song, painting or architecture, and when this is destroyed, all vanish into the great sphere of the common-place. That man who never learned to appreciate the first elements of the beautiful could not gaze on the harmony and splendor of the cathedral of Lichfield without realizing the latent powers of his being, that he stood within the presence es the sublime. No wonder that the style of Johnson was grand and full of music for we are told that he enjoyed the contemplation of the church, and as I think of his words and Sentences I can imagine that every period was fashioned to fit and reflect the spirit of the cathedral. Unfortunately we were too late to pass within and could satisfy our wonder by a silent ramble around it. Jr dates from 1200,. and, like all the great cathedrals, was built at different times. A short ramble Qvei’ the city brought us to many interesting places. The quaint old grammar school, where Johnson, Addison and Garrick conned their lessons, is still used as a place of instruction. The house of Johnson’s boyhood is also preserved to the visitor.

4- short ride bi ought us to that wonder of English cities— Birmingham. From the time you step from the car you are in the midst of surprises because of the contrasts with the places you have visited. You are landed in one of the largest depots in the world, covering some eleven acres, and the city is of modern growth so that you do not meet the same elements of interest as you do in the usual English town, but you are interested in the commercial activity which I doubt is equalled and certainly not surpassed in any city with which I am acquainted.

Of course the town has <1 very ancient flu| its impotVanco' 'is ’' gbbwth ' bbga’ri* with establishment and perfection of steam machinery, cabined but ’ here by James Watt at the end of the Iflst century. "It is also situated ip th'p sif&t d* exteng^f}'cqeil anfl'iron'fluids, which have addefl to its importance.. In 17Q€> it* ‘contained iff: hbitantbf in' |B(s 4,0q6: in 1861, as many as wL fIQO, pnfl to-fl ay we find lad", 000, gebpl’e wjthjfl borders. ‘ Tflis Wwes Qf the ApierUau splrltaf building eitiaa. The industries are the principal points of interest. They employ about wo.rknien, and produce goods to the value of w.BW n £ About IQ, ipen flrc employ efl th the manufacture of guns, prodticihg about’6oo.ooo gun-cartels yearly. ‘ |p‘|hp including’ dtp; Civil war tsd tflfl Crimean’ way. no fewer than 4,000,000 military rifles were

made. Of this number 770,000 were sent to the United States. The steel pen, familiar to all, is made here by Gillot & Co. The wares of Birmingham are found in every quarter of the globe, and many people pay tribute to her enterprise and energy. Our first impression of Birmingham was peculiarly vivid. We had left the quiet little city of Lichfield in the most quiet part of the day, the evening, in one of the most quiet months of the year, and the crowds that we met on the streets of Birmingham beggars all description. It was about nine in the evening when we came to the city, and the streets were completely packed with a surging sea of humanity. It was with the utmost difficulty that we made our way along the street. They not only had possession of the walks but the whole street. We attempted to fathom the meaning of the numbers, but could find no other reason that it was Saturday night, and all were out for fresh air and to do their purchasing for Sunday. After procuring our lodging we joined the crowd to learn their ways and were soon led to the public market. This is an institution peculiar to Europe, and has never been introduced in America, only where foreign business methods have gained strong ground. It is a building of immense size, owned and built by the city, divided into stalls and rented to individuals as a place to sell their wares. Everything that man wears or eats is found on sale here, and to walk up and down the long aisles, loaded with the products of all climes, intended to satisfy all species of appetites and desires, is instructive and interesting. An institution of this kind would give good results in our larger cities, and even in our smaller ones. This passage from Lichfield to Birmingham, although only a very short distance, was like passing from a dreamy fairy land into a world of bustle and activity. As we desired to spend Sunday in Covantry we took an early train for that city. You are at once transferred into the county of Shakespear. I doubt if there is a county of all England aside from London that has the same interest for the traveler as that of Warwick. The city of Covantry possesses soiqe 50,000 inhabitants and has acquired a reputation in the manufacture of watches, bicycles, and work in metal. It has a very unique legend connected with it which has been verified by Tennyson and which is celebrated each year by festivities. The incident dates from the eleventh century. It was the purchase of the municipal independence of the city from the king of Mercia by the sacrifice of his wife. The version of the legend can be obtained by reading “Lady Godiva” a part of the “Idylls of the King.” As I recall it the version runs thus. The citizens de-' sired the freedom of the city and the king replied that he would grant it when things became such that his wife could ride through the streets of the city under certain conditions, Lady Godiva for her love of the city resolved to do it, and on the hour that she was to perform the feat the city authorities ordered that all citizens should leave the streets and remain under cover under the penalty of death. One person paid the debt, and forever associated his name with the city, that person is known as “Peeping Tom.’’ Our rooms in the city were immediately across from the house where he did his peeping act and is marked by a wooden bust of a man leaning from th? dow and gaafegthe street, i aus' 5 tyy Is tlje‘. df the early years of : George Elliott, that masterful analyst of the humah mind:, whose novels ar'erejact tW subtleties of nre apprpchtfM lUd her WK is evlno,t appreciated, by the citizens of the to.wfl, andi qu pp quiry, by thm WhS Übsoiute igqqvaw Ot Rev, hqt that shft One man told he was a famous a famous writer* UQt knowing that he was a. lady-. Morning found us an way for a delightful walk- to, the city of Shakespeare*.

S. E. SPARLING.