People's Pilot, Volume 3, Number 25, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 8 December 1893 — ACROSS THE DEEP. [ARTICLE]

ACROSS THE DEEP.

Things to be Seen iu Old Edinburgh. Halle a. s., Nov. 10, ’93 I suppose without doubt the writer of these letters derives more genuine interest in review ing the many pleasant scenes | and places that arc here so inade quately chronicled, than the I reader, (if there chance to be any). It is, however, natural, that to live again in contempla tion of places once visited is a trait of mind which the visitor is liable to use as a weapon'on the patience of others without dm* regard for their feeling. So if these letters bear the stamp of the uninteresting it will doubtless be due to the inability of the writer to see and be interested in the same things that others might be. But we are in the midst of the environs of the classical city of Scotland where all that the Scotchman can do to beautify nature you will find. By early knowledge of the geographical situation of Edinburgh was somewhat distrubed to find that it was noton the river Forth or the sea shore, but some little distance from either. It is an other interesting instance, which repeat themselves often iu Europe, of the site of a city being located and determined by the natural s'ination with refer ence to the ability to defend it. The city is really divided into two distinct parts—the old and new city. The old city is to-day to be seen in the old and curious streets and houses that have survived the destruction of the past. This old city was wedged between two large and rather steep ridges on the east, one of which the famous castle, of Edinburgh, was and is now situated. This part of the city is interesting as the place of the rich historic past that it contains. The new Edinburgh contains all the beauty for which the city is known to the world abroad.

•Our day in Edinburgh was a very busy one. We were fortunate in getting night accomada tions with a lady who had spent conside’able of her time in America. In order to see a city with an economy of time, which means in traveling an ecomony of many other things, one must have before him a careful list of the places he desires to visit besides.a plan of the city and then arrange his visits with the least friction of time and place. As we have been accustomed to seeing new things all our life it is very natural for us to turn our attention to the city of historic Edin burg, rich in the associations of the past in almost every realm of human activity. Much of this old section is given up to factories and various establishments. The railroads all center in this part of the city. Edinburgh is the seat of the administrative and judical authorities of Scotland and is renowned for its university and schools. It is often best to begin a city by a general view from some steep lookout. This is to be had from the castle or Scott’s monument. The history of Edinburgh begins, so far as authentic records go, with the erection of a fortress on the castle rock in 617 by King Edwin, and became known as “Edwin’s Burgh,” which has been shortened into present form. Its long and varied history is almost the same as the history of Scotland. One street in this old section is familiar to all who are in any way familiar with the city. It is known as Canongate street. It connects the two castles, i Holyrood and the Edinburgh. Commencing at Holyrood which is situated down in the lower part of the city the street of Canongate gradually asscends to the old castle. It is in this street that one finds so many things of interest. In the first place the street is typically tone of those curiosities which we jean only find in an old town or I city. Its buildings are very old of a curious and interesting architecture. Many of these old relics of the abode of the early inhabitant has been removed. But many remain. Here you will find much of the poverty of the city. As one walks up the street he is led aside to enter one of the narrow side alleys as we call them, but which the Scotch call “wynds. ’ Here one . observes something of what ! poverty means in large cities. And stricking it was too that im j mediately across from the one we visited in the churchyard of an old and unassuming church lies the remains of the man who laid the foundation of the principles of the science which has and will do so much to alleviate the inequalities of human life. The science of political econ-

• otny and the founder Adam Smith—the greatest philosopher I that has ever studied the affairs !of men and in whose teaching ■ are found the germs of the i thought that has revolutionized - human society. In this same j churchyard lies the philosopher, j Dugald Sewart. This church I takes its name from the street. iC'ose to this church is the old i prison known as "Old Gab j uooth," but more familiar known to American readers as the ; "Heart of Midlothian,” one of | Scott’s strongest novels. The i old prison is torn away, but its ■ site is preserved by a large heart I in the stone pavement in memory jot the name of Scott. The ist reet, as is often in these old j cities suddenly assumes another t name without any tangible reai son. So with Canongate and we j must know it as Hight street. I We, pass on wondering over the | curious and interesting instance lof a modern people attempting jto tit themselves to an evirom ; ment of the past. We do not go 1 far when we are attracted by an ' old building which projects out in the street. A flight of wooden stairs leading from the street io the upper story. This was home of the famous Scotch preacher. John Knox.for twelve years. An unassuming old structure to contain the spirit of such a dauntless and spirited reformer. He was about the only person whom Queen Mary, of Scott, thoroughly feared. Before his masterly denunciation of her crime she was known to tremble. We pass rapidly on till we reach St. Giles’ church, in whose immediate vicinity we find many of the old governmental buildings.of Scotland. To the south of the church is an open place which was formerly the old churchyard, and near is a stone which bears the inscription "J. K. 1572” and is supposed to mark the grave of John Knox. Near also stands the Parliment House, the meeting place of the Scottish Parliment, until 1707 when it was removed to London. The library of this court number 300,000 volumes. It contains a copy of the first printed edition of the bible and the original manuscript of Sir Walter Scott's novel, -"Waverly”. Also the confessions of faith signed by James, Vl, 1590, St. Giles is the oldest parish church in Edinburgh and erected in the 12th century on the site of a much earlier edifice. It was partially destroyed by fire and rebuilt in 1460 at the time of the reformation. The interior of the . church was defaced and robbed of its artistic adornments, after which it was divided into four separate churches. In this condition it remained until 187183, when it was restored to its original form. Much of the fierce re ligious disputes of Scotland cluster around this church. A very amusing incident accured in the church which indicates the spirit of the manner of much of the argument of the time. While Dean Hanna was delivering one of his cutting sermons,a hearer in the person of Jenny Geddes, threw her stool at the Dean as her part of the argument. This stool is still to be seen in the museum. The Solemn League and Covenant was signed here in 1643. John Knox often preached in the church. Close to this part of the town free library presented to the city by Andrew Carnegie. Near also stands the Bank of Scotland, a beautiful building where we learned that Scotch paper money was not good in all England but must be discounted for collection. This is a fact which I could not well understand that a nation which has thought over the problem of finance as the British, should have a system of currency which was not tender in all parts of the Empire. But the paper money of Scotland is about the same as the notes of private individuals or firms. For instance the paper we used was the pri- * vate paper of the firm of the | "Draper Linen Company.” The firms are legalized by law. On ‘ presentation of these notes in England we had to cash them as a draft. They do not circulate in England. Evei’ since the John Law Mississippi scheme, Scotland has had a tendency to "Wild Cat” banking I and it seems with perfect securijty and- success. The Bank of j Scotland is at the source of all 1 paper issue and its principles are known to be sound, We have reached the ascent that leads up toward the old castle of Edinburgh and are preparing to enter the esplanade when we observe sentinels running thither and thither and we are soon informed that the Highland guard to Princess Louise is on the point of morning parade. We will wait to see it.