Hammond Times, Volume 16, Number 153, Hammond, Lake County, 19 December 1922 — Page 8

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to Gr-eet the Winds

Winter-

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Furs Are the Exquisite Medium of Expression Employed Hy the Cleverest Artist-D esigners -Wraps i-specially Present Interesting Studies in the Individuality of Lines.

VEKY once in a while we are forced to consider the perennial

popularity of fur, though one

I need not be exceedingly know

ing as to the whys and wherefores of the mode to understand its continued favor In the eyes of fashion.

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muskrat. They're not so beautiful

as natural, perhaps, but are made i

really lovely by the skill of the artist j in furs who cleverly combines their j striking markings into really hand- j

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some garments. Coats made of these practical furs appeal especially to the

Apart from the splendid beauty of tha j motorist and tho all-round sports- : skins themselves, there, is warmth woman, whosa need Is rather more j practicality and luxury in the wraps for the practical, than for the beautl- j

they fashion, and in the suits and coats they trim. It was Theodore Parker. I believe, who whimsically said: "The coat of the buffalo never pinches under the arm. never puckers at the shoulders; it is always the same, yet never oldfashioned." And tho spirit of his philosophy applies to the wrap of fur Milady wears, for as an item of personal apparel it is always in style, though it is hardly likely to bo buffalo! And it is equally true that not only the buffalo hide, but many of the mora luxurious and supple peltries arc iikely to become rare exhibits in our museums, so great is the demand for fur. and yet more fur. Indeed, many of the tiny animal3 that lived their lives utterly unafraid, so far as the hand of mankind was concerned, are now hunted things, their soft, sleek coats the prize for which trappers risk their lives, that women may go forth all warmly wrapped in fur. Even the plump family puss is safer when she basks in the light of the open fire, than when she adventurously roams abroad. New Furs Supplement The Old For years we have been most familiar with sable, marten, mole and beaver, in tho practical furs: and chinchilla and ermine in the peltries especially favored for evening wear. But recent seasons have added many

ful at the expense of practicality.

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It is quite true that the coat of fur Evening Wraps Luxurious Creation!. ! oddity of sleeve edge, there are no sure an extended vogue for its usa

Evening wraps are exquisite, gor- j unusuanties tnat win tena to mane ( as a cat material, jeous. sumptuous affairs "of ' royal ! the garments out-of-style another sea- j &trrct Coats simple And Dijfnifled

seems an expensive luxury, since it muft be remodeled frequently and kept in perfect condition, if it is to give the utmost in satisfaction and service. But it is the type of luxury, which, by virtue of that very eervice and satisfaction, more than pays its

shade less royal, but royally modeled.;1'"' ulHituum( , , M 1 coat, developed in caracul. Is di?ni-

ny fur worthy of the ""8- V .C- ' fled an1 smart. through its very slm-

and1 adapted

QftfintiAn P 1i clirnQi. fa Cm t 1 C

best over a gown of velvet, metal wh."9 sleeve falls open at he

wav thu maklne it no luxury at a:! : irr.r-sric m- rt a riMi mr

Paradoxicaf but true! The modes of j acteristlc of the material mode of the f 'eeve ba l d0 w'th "s edge' n tho present season are more varied: hour. Furs are used in combination j lne a,y,, Se. VI , , Z than they have ever been, for fashion j With fabrics in ordinal models ot Lun-u"ual I!n;s or details of trimming

cot t, p.t1 nf hsr .nnnrnvnl nn !o . 1 aeiract irom US concmuea Bm i.

distinguishing features are its

glimpse one catches of the lining

And since the oddity of the

The pictured model of a street

Plicitj-. , An all-envelopingr collar. , slightly widened sleeve edge and un- i usual shoulder and sleeve lines are ! the modish details that give it its j effective air of charm. No collection j

ot street coats would ie complete

(ur is much lovelier for the contrast with the other. Whatever one's fancy

I may be, in the vay of a coat or wrap.

her wish may bo sratiSed, and she may fare forth to thop. to tea. to the matinee, quite impervious to chilling wir.de or stormy weather, ber coat or wrap a thing of beauty and a joy welU not forever, but- at least so Ions as it is fashion. And when another , season . brings another mode, clever hands will charge the lines;

; add a detail here or a detail there:

! and skillfully change its entire ap-ipearance.-More .than any other gar

ment, the fur wrap makes us friends with winter.

mats and wr:3 na fr.r 1-ntVi M'untn? nnil

many widely differect furs; on both j daytime wear hardly a garment for ; ness- Its 1?ngth is i

the short coat and the long coat; and

on the cape, the wrap and the coit. The vogue for brown quite naturally stresses table, nutria, mink and beaver, but not to the exclusion of squirrel, mole and Hudson seal Persian lamb androadtail are strong in the mode, especially smart in straight line, full length coata or wraps. The Vogue For Caracul

outer wear but makes much of fur

I too. in passing, is the smart

hat worn with it. The edge of its

interesting, so. IV , " ,c 'T V! . I nctly to the straight line silhouette.

littlei.' 11 , ' ' , v. rul; -nu l"ia!Hge collars characterize them both.

time it is mole, in one of the new

and both show the possibilities of

WITH A BLOUSE TO MATCH

UITE the newest characteristic of

he three-piece suit has to do with

the blouse, which is now made.

very frequently, of the eame material

as the skirt and jacket, even when that material is heavy wool. The idea

, k . T. brim and the fold that runs diagonal- ! ... . . A t sea ai" mink In the hands of a of a skirt and DlOuS or the saru

i .T a . O O L 1 1 LIUY II. tL'l lit ... I - , . . . ... . . .

entire lower half of a coat, as well

workman. The beauty ot ! fabric has this advantage worn to-

contrast to the grey of the coat It- . . "V,u " ,; both wraps depends more on the lines gether they give the effect of a or.e-

leelf. The hat of fur la a force to be ! , ' , """1"' " ;"'"l ; brought out by the skillfully matched 1 piece dress; separated, a blouse of ! -,i,r..o.i tn, i cm' n ana wrist are quite aumcient for its i , , f. v.,r,jic.0 1 Roma other material mav r mm

mode combining especially well with ! 1 , . , ' , ornamentation. t. ,,, th rt anv j .iti, th skirt, thus r.-.afcin-

It mav em- I umpiuous rap 'Ji J ne tape lype ! detail. And since this is a season of : tumes in one. Or.e French house fea-

as the cuff3 and collar is made of the fur; the wool velvets of the coat

And then there is caracul most chosen to illustrate the trend of fash

prominently featured of all the fashionable furs, in both short and long coat models. Caracul Itself is the rkin of a rare little animal, whose habitat is India and parts of Africa, and its natural colors range from fawn, a bit reddish in tinge, through to brown. This fur is one of the most adaptable that the designer has yet found, since

the daytime coat of fur.

Models inclined To conservatism ; ploy satin. Canton crepe, brocade or The evening wraps both follow the fur trimmings as well as fur wraps.

A decided inclination to conservat- I Paisley in some of its many variations. I cape style, and prove how versatile ono must needs note the fur bands

as an aid to contrast and emartness. I the type may be. both as to lines and : on the panels of the beaded frcck.

but the suppleness of the fur Itself. ! general effect. The cape of seal flares : and the fur-edged velvet gown that j are simple, with little or rio trimming', in combination, or by itself, will as- (widely from the shoulders to the hem ! the mink wrap complements. The ono j and fit snusly about the hipline.

ism Is fchown in the cut of the models

in furs. Barring an occasional

tures sports costumes in rough wool novelty mixture., with skirt and

blouse of the tame fabric. The models

names to the list of skins in general i for coats, coatees and trimming pur-

use. There's the satiny broadtail; tho curly Persian Lamb and caracul, the lustrous Hudson seal: the smoky mole and silvery squirrel as well as a world of trimming furs, like skunk, kolinsky, lynx. fox. and Australian

poses it is both pliable and supple, lendinpr itself most admirably to the purpose in hand. Models in all the favorite furs are widely varied, embracing several prominent style details in diverse ways sleeves wide at

opossum, expensive

Favorite furs, that are less j the wrist; unusual shoulders; both in price and because j shawl collars; gorgeous linings;

CCESSORIES fall naturally into

of their splendid wearing qualities are ! mental girdles, buckles, clasps and raccoon, ocelot, leopard, civet cat and i ornaments, the outstanding features.

THE SWEATER vs. THE JACQUETTEl

two classes those that are wholly decorative and those I that are both practical and dec- I

orative. It is with the latter that we j

huge ! are now concerned, whether it bo

orna- wua an eye to personal aaornment or

the Christinas grift that should be practical, yet just as beautiful as may

be consistent with its practicality. How often when buying a frock for ! daytime wear the prospective wearer-

foil many seasons now. we have new and interesting, and the finished ' whol,y vrloks the neckline, or j not only depended wholly upon i garment is rather more like a coij j passes lightly over its ugly, unbecom- j the sweater to fill certain practical I weather coat than anv type of sweat- I lus ways wlth an assured "that can j

nut-as. out 4i lias Dcen me uncnspuiea ; er we have hitherto possessed, monarch of all it surveyed In the i .

world of sports clothes. Just as a matter of course we have included a slip-over or Tuxedo in the season's wardrobe, presumably because no other garment m existence would take its place in practical usage. Now.

WRAPPING THK CHRISTMAS

PACKAGED

be Hxed!" But it's safe to say that

that same "fixing" later presents a j problem that It takes both time and ' thought tn anh'p. Vnr vprfll QDqnnt !

.t,. t , now, two fashions have obtained the

the Christmas gift is tho look of!!"oun1r ba eau neckli"e. unrelieved j

the package itself, yet too often

the wrapping is a last minute thought.

However, me wew-Knowr. types oi i hastily, even carelessly done. And it knitted garments have a rival In the h3 easy, when buying greeting popular jaequette. which has taken j cards, to include in the purchase tisthe fashion world by Etcrm. and. Jor I sue and heavy paper, as well as the the timo being, at least, quite eclipsed ! seals, twine, cord or ribbon necessary the glory of the familiar sweater. for making an attractively wrapped Not only is the Jacrjuette type a package. Then when it is time to novelty, but both small and large may : get the packages ready, there Is real wear it with success, since the sur- , pleasure in beautifying the gift itself.

plice c'osii;,r is a slrndc-riaing. as well whether it be practical or luxurious, j as a generally becoming feature. Some ' Apart from the usual red. white and ! models button at a low waistline. ; green of the Christmas season, there i

othsrs have a continuous band, and i are two other wrapping schemes wor evory model, preferably, slips on j thy of consideration. The color o.'er the head, even though :t be open j scheme may be the favorite of the from neck to waist. These jacquettes j sender, or, if one wishes to go to the are made rf the various wools, orti- 1 pM: trouble, each gift may be firial s:lk, all silk fin mohair. Vhe w-a; ?d in the rreferrd tenors of c'tsins and color coubinaiions .re ' the ?. :-t.

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back and front. The same materials may be used as in the Bertha collar

land there are the same opportunities

for the giver of Christmas remembrances that are sure to be acceptable, yet are touched with the thought that accompanies a hand-made gift. If neither Bertha or panel collar is becoming, one may seek, ever with the assurance of finding, the odd lit

tle half collar or the quaintly shaped

I dium of a tiny collar, an edge of lace, j a vestee, pleat or frill, the Bertha may i fill a lone felt need since it will ac

complish the desired purpose, the I piece of lace that best suits her need

and that of her gown. Emtroiaery

is winning Hs way back to popularity,

i There's wide range, both in materials

and styles the former organdy, lace, net and embroidery; the latter vary-

by collar or trimming of any sort, ex

cept. occasionally, some finish in self color. While many wear the round or bateau neck with great success, others find it most unbecoming, and it Is the same with the collar-less.

colorless neckline. During this period Broken Lines Relieve The Possible

many women, who follow a fashion, becoming or no. simply because it is "the fashion." have been unbecomingly dressed, for tho simple reason that the neckline of their gowns has seemed unfinished, even queer. But others, who adopt a fashion in its entirety only when it is becoming, have mitigated the severity of line or solid color with a bit of attractive neckwear that had the lines and the touch of color the dress did not. Just now, there is a distinct inclination to

favor in tho neckwear rank and file. One of these aspirants Is the Bertha, the other the panel collar, but both were designed with a single aim and object! This they achieve through the lines and materials of which they're made. For the woman who has attained the desired feminine

soften the bateau line, and the su-1 touch on her gowns through the me-

ing both as to width and shape. The background for the Bertha collar is usually a gown of simple lines, not Infrequently a bit old-fashioned in ap-

; pearance. Quite evidently this is done j that the dress itself may not distract tho attention from the loveliness of i the collar. As one may readily bee, with the all-the-way-round collar in j the picture as an example, it is a fashion that has possibilities for the i home dressmaker. She may make I many clever variations of the Bertha i for herself, and check off several i names on her Christmas list with the

same idea in mind. If a line of unrelieved white is not becoming, there may be broken lines at the shoulder, showing the dark material beneath If the all-round line, whether white

Unbceomlnfcness Of An All-Tlie- i or colored. Is unbecoming, the collar

nay.Kound Collar. may be pointed back and front or premacy of the unrelieved neckline ! over the shoulders. If white Is un-

is threatened. It may even be wholly j becoming, ecru mcy oe surmitutea

displaced bv two new aspirants to

or the material may be a metal lace.

a lace touched with color, net with colored embroidery, or lace and embroidery. It is an elastic mode, adaptable, and filled with clever possibilities. The panel collar takes varied forms. combining frequently with the Bertha, so there's a panel front or back: a Bertha back or front; or panels both

and while the stitches, perhaps, are diSTerent, and the shape of the collars themselves, the idea is the eame. and sure to be eagerly welcomed by the woman who Is skillful with her needle. Many times it means a gift of real Value at a very small expense, except that of odd minutes of time. If the shape of many of the collars is any indication, there are to be many square and V-shaped necklines, and one new piece of neckwear has not only a collar, but a vestee or gulmpe attached to it. This style may be had in chiffon. Georgette and taffeta, as well as lace and linen, thus adding a note of elegance to even the simplest gown. There are guimpes of organdy to be had. as well as separate collars and collar and cuff seta in' the same material. Hand embroidery, hand scalloping, hand drawn work, finely

run iucks ana pieais. real laces ana j fine imitations of real laces play their ! part in adornment of organdy, lawn and linen neckwear. Taken all in I

all. the new things designed for the ornamentation of the neckline make a most delightful showing, and whether the product of one's own originality; of domestic make or foreign, it's Just the treasured touch of cleverness that appeals to the welldressed woman, whether giver or recipient.

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A Bertha Collar, Effectively Applied, May Serve In The Place Of Sleeves.

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