Hammond Times, Volume 16, Number 137, Hammond, Lake County, 28 November 1922 — Page 9

ffi

( -Jet WW

Long and Flowing, They Take Many a Capricious Turn The Slashed Type a Favorite Facings and Linings of Contrasting Color Add a Brilliant Touch - Old Styles Revived.

f'ASHIOX is always at her happiest when 6he is playing extremes or when she can turn a trick that leaves her devotees confounded. Everything about the styles now seem unexpected, inconsistent, but it is Just therein that the peculiar and indisputable charm of them lies. For instance. If a dress starts out to be severe, it is more than likely to be finished with a delightfully feminine sash or & fluffy sleeve ruffle. If it is elaborately embroidered or touched up with much trimming:, the chances are that there is, as a last note, a panel or a sleeve or some other feature of opposite character- and there you are the contradiction. It Is a very different position that the cloth frock occupies in this present mode from that of any other style regime, if only on account of its materials, which are as varied and as beautiful as are silks. Practically all of the old materials are on the lists, along with many others, which, with the odd trimmings, to say nothing of the odd methods of using them, combine to. introduce real novelty into a type of dres3 that has always been prosaic, at least in comparison with others. Sleeves Make The Frock Every model shown this fall has been additional proof of the importance sleeves have assumed. In the majority of cases they "make" the gown or the coat. They are the center of attraction. Xot that the sleeves are always elaborate or complicated. On the contrary, they are sometimes very simple, as in the coat dress shown above, and sometimes they are a mere continuation of the blouse, as in the frock of crepe velvet. In the latter dress the broad armsides, which must be accepted as an apology for sleeves in this delightful model, are outlined with two inchwide velvet bands studded with bronze beads, the bands matching the

CORSETING THE NEW

OW that the more feminine sil houette is returning to vogue, the question of proper corseting ob trudes itself, for even If a trig foundation were not essential to the success of the new fall frocks, the corset would still be necessary to the retention of the slim, graceful outline that has succeeded the boyish form of the past few seasons in Fashion's calendar. The modern corset, it must be acknowledged, is a triumph over the contrivances of steel and buckram that once served as such, since even the physicians, to whom that other corset was anathema, now urge that some sort of a corset be worn by every woman. Some of the newer corsets have the merest suggestion of a curve at the back of the hips, and there is less demand for the elastic corset, which is taken to mean that the elastic type dees not provide sufficient restriction for the new draperies In those corsets which are to replace the elastic ones, the position of the few bones is all-important, being

i mm

u - brown of the crepe, and caught together with strands of the same bronze beads. Over a slim, straight skirt is draped, high at one side, so high that it reaches the waistline, a width of material long enough to finish with a sash-end that Just escapes the floor and that, at the same time, forms a part of the skirt. This sash is banded and beaded similarly to the sleeves. Even more original are the sleeves and the girdle in the afternoon dress of fawn-colored gloveskin. The sleeves are of a size all the way. set into a lining and banded with skunk fur. enclosing a narrow shirring. The girdle shows two bolster rolls, the gloveskin cloth being closely shirred, then finished at the side with a cluster of fiat roses from which drop, quite to the floor, ten tubular strings, knotted at the ends and twisted for three or four inches at the top to simulate fringe a clever idea. A Bishop And A New Slashed Sleeve Although embroidery has lost some of its persuasiveness for the really formal frock, there is many a touch of it on cloth dresses, much of it vivid and in conventional design. a3 in the dress of the type illustrated herewith. In this a straight bodice with sideopening, set-in sleeves and the waistline marked with a band of the cloth shirred betwe&n two rows of fur-cloth, is embroidered in an all-over pattern with vari-colored disks in a field of brown. The sleeves are exact replicas of the old bishop sleeves, bagging into tight little cuffs, matching the waist trimming. The final illustration represents a model of mateiasse. It is in one piece, draped over a softly corseted foundation with the skirt lapped one side over the other and decorated with small tassels fashioned of tightly twisted silver cord. The sleeves are of the slashed sort. so popular, but are given an original entirely dependent upon the Individual's requirements. It is interesting to note in corsets designed for wear both with the draped dresses and the fitted bodices that there is a slight curve at the bottom of the back, a tendency to a slightly higher back, and that waistlines are fitted in a trifle with tapering lines below. All of these features tend to accentuate the slenderness of the silhouette. In Paris no woman thinks of going without a long flattening brassiere that fits snugly over the top of the corset. American women still hold to the bandeau with its shoulderstraps. Both the new corsets and the brassieres are dainty things, quite in keeping with the daintiness a woman adheres to Jn her lingerie. One long line bandeau, that might be the foun dation of one of the fitted bodices. is of filet lace with the shoulder- ; straps of silver ribbon dotted with I rose-bud motifs, while another is of ! i t j, i t rii ui uiuei 'j nL com ni i:ea wuii satiii. . This latter has an elastic waistband

VP' P ltll.Mll.il WW' J W MiWWW'it " WW y-t 3 I i?T iH Lg W I IN ' IJ I

f '; -. t - f-.-sV' r

IK turn through a circular cuff that is seamed to a straight upper section that is left open as far as the elbow then caught just at that point to Care open for the rest of the way. The cuffs are in two ections. the one in front being much shorter than that of the back so that the silk lining shows clearly. Observation of the sleeves of the newer costumes shows that the trend toward elaborate ones, started in the spring, is far from abating. Rather, it is increasing. This applies chiefly to daytime and informal evening dresses, for formal evening frocks are still sleeveless or nearly so. All other sleeves are long and often of an entirely different material from that of the dress. In wraps and coats they are voluminous, in suits they are usually close-fitting, at least, at the top, with often an undersleeve, and in day dresses they are anything and everything that is different. One designer has fashioned a bertha-like cape to one of her cloth day gowns that continues Into long sleeves that completely cover the hand. These sleeves are fairly simple to make. The cape turns over across the arm and et the underside the front edge is caught at the elbow to the cape part. The outer edge is finished with a dull gold picot. Draped Types Many other sleeves are continuations of some other portion of the gown or else sweep on into some entirely different feature. The French designers, particularly, feature this method. LeLong. Worth, Renee and hosts of others, start their sleeves as sleeves, only to make them trail off into sinuous draperies, graceful sashes or sweeping trains, or they permit a collar, a back or a front section of a blouse or a shoulder to become a fullfledged sleeve. All-over embroideries in variegated Icolors. bandings of embroidery or of MODES J and dlaphram control feature, which ! both slender women and women not to the ordinary bandeau. Flesh-colored satin, with ribbon binding ail the edges, fashions a topless corset that is very lightly boned and so soft and supple that one could hardly realize she had it on, yet it is not a corset reserved for the slender exclusively, for it holds the figure very firmly If gently. Many women who have been content with the girdle are returning to the lightly boned corset, and many. even among young girls, demand a top to the corset, especially ln the back, and almost invariably they insist upon a corset that is quite firmly boned over the abdomen. Some of the slender girls are satisfled with one of the short hip-oonfin ers that come in satin, with net ruffles for trimming, while the woman of! only averagely slim figure favors corset that is made of bands of grosgrain ribbon arranged one above tne .i iy.y., y. v, , , j in ucii-r w,,n rj-rm.it iur-i,jua udiuu over the top by way of decoration.

.'.'7 V;? 1 ' Hi

' V 4

p DO

AT iff i- I ' -vy - '(. W yf : ' i h v i" t .war"" - v , g-e - fir, passementerie motifs, braiding and ribbon in many guises, and each of these in various combinations, a!' go to make up a long list tof possible sleeve treatments. It is extraordinary how a touch of trimming, an odd cut. a slash, the turn of an edge or a corner of the material transforms an ordinary sleeve into a creation. It is an excellent time to make over. Almost any sleeve is susceptible to transformation according to these new styles and since, as already has been suggested, the sleeves make the frock. It might well happen that merely the introduction of new sleeves of contrasting material and. perhaps, color, or by changing the old ones otherwise, a frock would become, to all intents and purposes, a new one. By way of example, a plain gray frock of Canton crepe, with the usual short, plain sleeve, in the hands of a clever little French out-by-the-day dressmaker, became a thing, not only of beauty, but an up-to-the-moment gown, and this ig the way it was accomplished. The facing was removed and the sleeve slashed up the center clear to the shoulder, or rather beyond. Then a full three-quarter sleeve of gray Georgette was let in, started directly on the shoulder, the edge3 of the sleeve made by the slashing having first been carefully turned back and pressed very,flat. The gray Georgette sleeve was picoted all around and was fully four inches longer than the Canton crepe sleeve, which brought it well below the elbow. After this, the operation was repeated, with a Georgette in I cathedral red introduced under the j gray Georgette, its edges similarly fin- i ished and this sleeve falling over the hand. The second layer of Georgette is a trifle wider than the gray so that i and symmetrica IIv toward tne wrists. Beautifying the Elbows. T T is not necessary to be really beautiful to create an Impression of beauty, but it is essential that ; one "keep up" in every particular. A ! peaches and cream complexion does not compensate for ill-kept hands, a Pretty face does not make up for an ugly, ungraceful carriage of the body. aH timfbr rnmnarLnn, m'rbt he and similar comparisons might be, made without number. rt-1,.1,. yx .fi,. k Wrs. r nf '.' ' impressive beauty of some ,ytini,. kaiiiwuiat feature, carelessness in any r.f triA a details or one s personal toueice is so inexcusable as to overshadow the merits even of perfect features -r,i, .it,A,r. fn, in.f anffl vt-1 mkc c.uuno, .i.jva.,. short sleeves, flowing sleeves or no i

" h

vV 'C ."4!: , - 1 hS 4

r K? fr 1 2- ; M i-f - C "ill H ;? J

-Mi VS 5 Air X s sleeves at all exposing them readily to dust, wind and sun, elsows require special consideration. And it is possible to lo much more for elbows ) than to keep them thoroughly clean. and a great many elbows are sadly in . need of that something more. i In any case, the first step toward pretty elbows is a vaseline rub. There is nothing like plain yellow vaseline for loosening the particles of grime,

Ys?z2Z y95y?'oy? AzS'S?csS'sf

VXT are the possibilities in -ibbons to add to the beauty md fashion of feminine tdornment and surroundings. .- wjuusand pretty coquetries are in them, as every woman knows, from the time she flaunts her first gay hair-ribbon at diminutive Johnny next door. Steadily, for the past three or four seasons, ribbons have been making their way to a new usefulness with a far-reaching scope and an appeal that is no longer purely frivolous, but dignified and artistic. To begin with, straight, softlycorseted frocks literally demanded ribbons, and having been given their cue, the famous designers set their clever wits at work and the result is an endless number of ribbon "trims" such as were never even dreamed of before. The consequence has been to bring from the manufacturers an imposing assortment of new weaves in new colors and color combinations and in widths that range from the tebe to that wide enough to fashion an entire frock and set itself up as a competitor of web goods. Perhaps one out of every ten girdles is made of ribbon, either by itself or H y- ; i yf ' W W ! yj! 3 vX S x y? y V f VS y : a. I l " I rS 4.Xs XQf Kl(My Beautiful Ribbon 3 j ,rp Many of Tllc Most Fetch- . , r-nhi.-.ni-rt iS G.rdlcs raIi.,.md. " i involving another fabric, wxta ireI QuentK- an ornament to serve as a foil i for the ribbon, as in the girdle shown in tho piiKtrntinn. ! " t . . i ..y.1..y, I-ferft a rareiv ueauiiiui v t l inociiu ' t and erv smipie it i- 10 man.-. i.ine lend is hummed and provided with cnanc tifi i a v i a a: a e e i" i t. n e a ri.e .."-i'. ....... , length necessary to encircle tne waist-

- . - I. - viV ' j-v r S v Ayt. Ay ti, i -v-y1 followed with a thorough rubbing with a good stiff flesh brush, hot water and soap. The pumice may be needed but it must be applied with gentleness not to break the skin. If the elbows are much discolored the pumice should be used first. If ihe discoloration persists, lemon juice is needed. After that treatment a hot cloth, cold cream rubbed in and a dusting with powder is the process. If the pores of the skin over the elbow are enlarged, witch hazel or tincture of benzoin applied freely will tend to remedy the defect. If the arm is thin and the elbow ungracefully i fiat, massage with cocoa butter will i heln round it out. coupled with an exercise that consists of thrusting the j forearm slowly but vigorously to right, i then left.

VEC

line, a short loop is made to a long j frondes in a beautiful rose pink, streamer fringed at the end, the loop j Ribbon is used effectively in sleeves, fixed with two great buttons with as in one of the lovely evening frocks centers of the red that predominates . worn ln a t0pUiar piay. Large, fieshin the ribbon and silver rims. At the1...., rA tha chn,,u

side opposite the bow the ribbon is twisted to give It shape, and on the underside of the loops are the snaps s, ; v . i rr ij . J-1 t V 'y - x,U" Out Of Satin Ribbons tome Girdles And Garters Of Magical Beauty. matched to those on the other end of the girdle. Three new and exceptionally inter

hilt) ,, life-

A -e-'y. -.-2l.x 5 p'i,. "itv b. C

esting girdles combine ribbon with the corset are not usually very dfbeads or feathers, making ri-h color I oratlve even where the corsets thet:--I effects and giving a graceful swing to .'selves are quite expensive. A f--w skirts that might otherwise be too . yards of ribbon shirred over tin ! straight and conventional to suit the elastic and an investment in a pair of 'present mode. j silver clasps together with a little

The first consists of seven tightly genuity is aa tr.at is neeaea to transformed roses made of ribbon and, de- ; form them into things of real dulr.tipending from it, a round dozen of j ness. loops of quarter-inch ribbon a trifle Petticoats of ribbon are noted aiwn? longer than the skirt which the girdle the novelties, adorable thinr fas'.adorns. This Is attached to a soft rib- ! ioned of many streamers of rih",,-.:i t f

bon, :he width of that of which the j roses are fashioned, of silver lame if the girdle is for evening wear; of satin irhe trirdle is for evening wear.; of satin ! Second " ,e arshown Is al-o j rof bbon tl : ime sa in ' -, , r " ' , , ribbon. Good sized roses are placed noire or veivei it ior aay urr.e. """"' V V V - 1 1 . at intervals arena a j..a:n r.uuou anu 'at each side a series of loops and ends j of unequal length, the latter tipped ' witn oeaaea nan lasie.a. The third I ;wrlly i. flictlf.tl ,.f f.-.n.r.f- r.orsna. e . i i- ....... .. i , . . , ,w:.:i t,i n.u.;, iiuii fin? ornaments ot na rt-sna pf a secloth embroidered , lions 01 ins s-i pi . , , . , ... . , I in pear is ana eased ,iu

t " -

; , sett i'k' 4

if - ; vs -. j y , DRAW-STRING BAGS FROM PARIS BVIOUSL.Y inspired by the old needle-work bags that so many of us have laid away in our treasure c&ests, are draw-string bags, handcrocheted or knitted or, what is more reminiscent still of the past, of canvas, all-over embroidered. Newly arrived from Paris, these new-old bags are beautiful in their colorings which have been carefully selected for the old ones used in lh-j originals so that some of the more expensive examples have all the appearance of having been lying for years ( in some cedar chest in a New Ens land garret. Nail-heads of steel and tiny steel beads are used with the embroidery and the handles are of ribbon or, mor often, of embroidered canvass. . form!ng ehoulder-straps to frock of the same delicate tint, then from these roses a3 a heading, depends a series of bebe velvet ribbons in a deeper shade, caught at the wrists to a bracelet composed of a smaller edition of the roses at the shoulders. Ribbons, in smashing bows or choux, are rated among the smartest of hat trimmings, and ribbons, wide ones form the panels to many a fashionable frock. Underthings were never before so elaborately trimmed with ribbon as now. In garters, for instance. Illustrated are several of the round variety, worn mostly "for luck" now that the corset with Its side elastics has returned to vogue. They are all exquisite things. The first set is of eilverlast ribbon with a plcot lace edge, with bows of narrower silverlast with tiny blossoms fixing their centers by way of decoration. Rosettes of lace with ribbon rose centers and knotted ends glorify the second pair shown, with leaves, stems and all. quite complete and fascinating. Pretty trousseau garters ai e presented next, sin-pie ones c th silverlast ribbon shirred on elastic, each with a tiny spray cf orange blossoms imbedded in the center of a frame of real lace, and then a tight Htied little bow of narrower sllv-rrlaat to enclose it. Side elastics that ar attached to any desired width, six oftentimes used. These rea n: f-rs a:, i eari V -. '! v i attacnea to a riDuon na fringed or, more like',;.' in a point and weighted, readily imagined, the.-e ti ho :.iir:i f-k' ly to tr, ti:ij' e'C, aii , , -' :h '""1 V. . wheels. ,tn-shaped ,.,vi.i, . lace, with r bon flowers. ; or choux for their c-r.te: , r, . lll?q S ri rt"! e 1 m ' S : ings. Ron th-vse ; t;. r ' a a i' n 1 -- . . , i ...yj... ... ---1 . aer. wnue un; smi v n e -i ' '-; r i ' -t bo-.r r.f a I tne ri'.-i.on. : bon-end a simple. i ,...y..y. rC 1'