Hammond Times, Volume 16, Number 120, Hammond, Lake County, 8 November 1922 — Page 9

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There Are Many 'Novelties Although Conservative Styles Lead Trotteur Types Developed in Odd Combinations blew bleeves and Collars Trimmings.

HREE things tvt-ry normal woman adores; beautiful jewelry, j f-xquisite laces and fine furs. And j ir tnere are tnree tnings wiuca. iiioe than others on the list of "What A Woman Should Wear," contribute to her charm find distinction as they do to her happiness, they are these. She glories in the very possession of them. This sea-son of' 1322-23 Is to be one of peculiarly beautiful jewelry, exquisite laces and luxurious furs, for they are the natural accompaniments of the long skirts and sinuous draperies, of corseted bodices and flowing sleeves and the wonderful fabrics that have crept into fashion almost unawares. As for furs, the woman who contemplates the purchase of new wraps this fall wll rind herself confronted by such an unusually large assortment of different types that, unless she is forearmed with a definite idea of what she-"' wants, she 'will soon be floundering in indecision. That 1-ashion favors, equally with the fur Wrap, the many exquisite cloth coats, heavily fur-trimmed, will also add somewhat to the perplexity of the prospective purchaser, for these have not only the charm of novelty, as compared with the models of practically any other season, and the advantage of being less expensive, although the last statement must be quaffed, for certainly not one but nany of th cloth coats run into prices that exceed those of some of the furs. Some Kngaslns Models This year, as usual. Hudson seal Is the standard fur. That is to say, it Is In vogue yet never becomes common because while it is not prohibitively expensive. It never becomes cheap and it is of all pelts the most universally becoming. It belongs in the class with moleskin, Persian lamb, black caracul and squirrel. Gracefully slim are the lines of the models shown, sometimes, as In the model of Hudson seal and the moleskin cape, arrived at through a clever manipulation of considerable fullness. In the former, which is a cape-coat, there Is more than a little fullness, although It is not of circular cut. but has the seal gathered at the top under a circular collar that fits well down over the shoulders. Half way down j Its length the wrap is banded with I

Dainty Bandeaux for Youthful Figures

JT is not so long ago that the I bandeau was known not at all for fl young giris. and it is only a score or so of years back that it was introduced In this country for grown-ups. although Paris has always insisted upon some sort of a waist designed to support the growing figure, help to maintain it in a properly upright position and Insure a graceful carriage of the body. These straight bands with their shoulder straps and their few tiny bones, so flexible that they merely confine without in the least unduly constricting the tender flesh, are now made in the daintiest fashion, even Inexpensive bandeaux being designed as attractively as the camisole. Incidentally, the bandeau is taking the

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IivrJ 'v 1 ... alternating strips of moleskin and seal. The collar, also, is of these two fura similarly arranged but lined. however, with seal. The fur itself is dep and fine and the model exceptionally graceful. The moleskin cape, in which the pelts are very soft and well matched, has its fullness well drawn toward the center of the back, or across a space of four Inches with a similar spacing of fullness in front. This leaves the sides rather plain and quite straight, producing a new swing, or line, that will undoubtedly be widely copied in cloth wraps. The collar is a straight, turnover affair placed rather low at the center back, or perhaps it is that the fullness at that point drops It down a bit. In any case, it constitutes a feature of the wrap, and an interesting one. Short Coats With Long Skirts It is a strange turn of the fashion wheel that with skirts taking on a downward trend short coats should suddenly come Into the running, but such is the case and while the threequarter and the full-length models have a first place, there are any number of short coats of a jaunty type called "saunterers" that are bound to have a large following. They are very youthful and notwithstanding the air of insouciance that gives them their particular appeal, are entirely suitable for any daytime occasion. They do not, however, like the longer fur coat, serve the purpose for an occasional substitute for the evening wrap. , The most desirable of these short coats, like the squirrel model Illustrated, involve numerous odd features such as the drooping, flowing sieeves and the pointed swinging panels at the sides that drop below the coat and conceal great, roomy pockets. Others among these short-fur Jackets are developed on tailored lines, thereby requiring an altogether different air, a touch of painstaking carefulness that always carries with It a suggestion of extreme style. Some of these coats are bloused with a hipband, as, for example, one in sealdyed mole which has a double chin collar of ermine edged with monkey. It Is Just such daring combinations of peltry as this that go far toward making the fur departments so terestlng. lnplace of the camisole, assuming the dual role of brassiere and corset cover and. with the adult. Invariably worn atop the corset, never Instead of it. Among the new bandeaux especially designed for the school girl Is a model of heavy filet lace, with scalloped edges and shoulder-straps of ribbon decorated with tiny French rosebuds. This fastens blindly, in front with snaps and is provided with tapes and clasps to which the short petticoat may be attached. Longer line bandeaux for the girl inclined to stoutness are in a nice.' shiny sateen, have shaped shoulderstraps and are guiltless of lace trimming, having simply a flower motif embroidered in silk floss in the center-front. The straps and edges are

Many furs that have never heretofore been introduced to each other are played up now in closest proximity and almost always with satisfactory if sometimes startling results. This is especially true among dyed furs, which seem to have interested the designers, for we see much fur of brilliant yellow or dull red. -or eve n j green, although it is mostly used for j trimmings. A rabbit skin of vivid red j makes a belted sports coat, while two blue coats of twenty-eipht inch j length, one dark blue with collar ant! LONG with many another practical garment. Fashion has taken the apron out of the purely utilitarian class into the decora-i-ve. o one thinks of hastily throwing it aside when callers appear without warning, as In the old days. It has assumed a place of dignity not to be questioned. The distinction between the maids' aprons and the hostess' aprons, as the j newer types are called, lies in the fact that as the one has strown plainer and simpler to the point of extreme severity, the latter has become more ornate, more picturesque, involving beautiful color schpjnes and clever needlework such as shown in the illustrations. Instead of organdy or mull these aprons are made of an extremely line quality of linen canvas like that used In the long ago when great-grandmother and her contemporaries did "fancy work" with precisely the same zeal with which women of today play golf or sit in at a game of bndg?. The color too. is reminiscent of Just that tone of old ivory that laces yellowed with age take on. One of these aprons is in one piece, cut from a straight length of materia!, with the neck cut square, and with

embroidered and the closure is at the j apron part slips under it in front. A back- j section o.' the corner design is reproThen. since s,ome girls just will faMjduced ir; delightful old blue and buff

into carciess nanus or posture, there is a bandeau with a waistband that ia stiffened a trifle more than the majority of other models? and holds the hips a b more firmly. This is more in the nature of a corset-waist. It has the garters and shoulder-straps and fastens in front. In a bandeau similar to this and designed to rve the same purpose, the hip or warstband is of elastic with small sections of coutil introduced.

home oi me prettiest, or- all ban-j this.' with its Power motif, worked In deaux are the simple ones of white shades of hrovp and yellow silk floss, satin with a lace band across the top with the bachelors' buttons' In dlfferthrouffh which is threaded a draw- ent shades of blue, would seem to be ribbon that ties in a bow. making its decoration enousrh for the most arisown decoration. tocratic of aprons, but this one's de-

j cuffs of seal, and the other a Cobalt blue with leopard skin trimmings, were featured prominently at one of the smart openings. To be sure, they are designed for wear with skirts similarly trimmed, so appeared conservative enough, but even of themselves they were far from being as atrrrressively ultra as might seem from their description. Baby Lamb And Caracul There was a time in the history of j fur coats when baby lamb and black Ml -Is:, fKtP ?r Is, U JVM 7'fCreamy Linon Voile And JJaud-Made Liice Contribute To This I'rvtlj Apron's Unquestionable SSucx-ess. I broad straps extending over the j shoulders and down to the waist, I WllPVP fhiv tlir. unripe t V, o Vlt a a f V, A (tones on the pocket and at the neck. while the hem. which is continued from the bottom up the decorated side, is hemstitched with thfead raveled from the canvas. One of the illustrations shows an apron conventional in shape as the regulation maids' apron, but its mellow tint, its dainty handwork, give it a distinction all i's own. Four inches from its pelves is a pocket that conforms ro the shape of the apron and

caracul were reserved almost exclusively for the middle aged or elderly woman, but now baby lamb marks the height of elegance for any young girl and caracul Is as suitable for Miss Sixteen to Twenty as It is for her mother. The coit illustrated Is an excellent demonstration of this point. Youthful in line, conservative, and yet with that air of distinction that every woman so desires to achieve in her Clothes, the fine, soft baby lamb Is one of the season's choicest offerings. On entirely different lines, and perhaps a trifle more matronl', is the wrap-coat: of fine caracul trimmed with skunk shown above. The coat blouses a bit at the back and fastens directly up the front to the throat to a small turn-over collar of the caracul with a tiny skunk scarf around it. Shorter coats in each of these furs are noted in all the better collections of furs, Jaunty trotteur coats, many

of which, like the squirrel coat men- rat called "loir." chinchilla rat and ! formal for any occasion, a charactertioned. are paneled. and others I goat are noted among the new furs ' istic which very many women will trimmed with shaped bands of a con- J which are used both by themselves I thoroughly appreciate.

OS? signer went even further and added a border of tiny eyelets embroidered in the darkest of the brown shades used In the flower pattern, then gave the edges, including those of the pocket and belt, a frilling of real lace. Aprons in general are rather more tailored than the ones of summer, but no less colorful, nor does this mean that they are any less feminine, for, after all, the feminine note is the keynote of the aprons charm for us. So while the yellowed linen canvas, with its old-timey cross-stitch embroidery, is comprised among the many models, there Is an endless number of the pretty sheer mull effects, crossed and recrossed with bands of real lace insertion, intersected at regular intervals with medallions of the same or of a different lace, and then finished with a frill of the mull or, more elaborately, of the lace, six cr even eight inches deep, and the frills very closely gathered so that many yards of lace are involved and the apron thus comes well into the luxury class. Then there are some aprons In bright colors that are new and impressive. Of sateen, silk or satin they i are. in brilliant blue or green, flame color or orange, or in one or another i of the wonderful violet or purple I

shades, and they are trimmed some- i satin or sateen. In Georgette or taftimes with . lae dyed to match, or ' feta, and they always flaunt a pretty with ecru or string-colored lace, but dignity that is less emphatic, if not again they ate decorated with . lacking altogether, in some of the bunches of silk, or linen grapes or gayer members of the a pron family, currents or clusters of velvet flowers ! And then there are the aprons that put on in repousse effect. i cover one entirely. These.too, or One such apron in Copenhagen blue at any rate some of them, come under taffeta, cut in a perfect circle, with ; the head of "hostess aprons," for they the belt cutting a section from the ' are the only practical type for the top to serve as a bib. had its , edges : Sunday night supper or the tete-a-picoted and a long stem of silk grapes : tete luncheon, and the more frivolous in luscious shades of purple appliqued ; models answer the call of the tea across the bottom. A small cluster i apron. Flowered taffeta flowered of grapes dangled from each of the sateen would have done as well sash ends and the finished apron was ' makes an exceptionally attractive most appealing. apron of the cover-all species for fall. Of course. when these hostess ! The top Is cut like a mandarin cont aprons afe of brilliant colorings, or, j with the long-hanging sleeves, but the as for that, with any apron, some j blouse Is seamed up to a corseted consideration must be given to the j foundation which gives a slightly question of its harmony with the dress j fitted effect. The skirt portion Is worn. Not even a white mull Is cer- I slanted a little to hint again of the

trasting fur. Hudson seal and baby lamb, caracul and kolinsky, platinum caracul and mole, and mole and fox are a few of the furs that have affinities for each other and are much in evidence. Odd Features On Xew Furs One of the most remarked features of the new season's furs Is a tendency to either a side or r surplice closing, and the tailored effects given to the garments, many of them being exact reproductions of cloth coats and wraps, even to their splendidly tailored aspects.

That coat dresses, entirely of fur, are fashioned on corseted fnnndntina and have lines as clearly defined and graceful as any velvet, proves to what an extent this orocess of fintshine fur has been carried and how satisfactory is the result. Fan pleats are Introduced in some short coats, which have also close fitting sleeves with all-over cuffs of the trimming. In each of these models broadtail and sable were the pelts combined. Chipmunk, which is technically i termed "baraduki," and a speci es of tain of success with Just .any frock. If, for instance, the gown Is paneled, a straight apron Is much more effective than one of the round ones, and if the gown is colored, the white or creamy-toned apron is a better choice, the chances are, than one of the colored models. An exquisite tea apron is worn In one of the new stage productions, "Her Temporary Husband." the scene being laid in one of the fashionable summer cottages at Southampton. It is just a flounce of lovely shadow lace, fine as a cobweb, half a yard long. About a yard of the lace is gathered into a space of a twelve-inch band which is covered with lace insertion three inches wide. VAt least a yard and a half of the lace on each side is left for tie-ends. Two tiny rounded pockets have each a little cluster of Watteau roses sewed to them, and a single rose decorates each of the streamers. The sides of the apron arc edged with a narrow lace, the scallop of the flounce providing the finish for the lower edge. Georgette and chiffon fashion dainty aprons. One of flesh coror Is shirred at the top Into ribbon strings and at the bottom into a narrow insertion of silver lace. Three lengths of the lace form the pockets, the lace being applied to cross sections in picket-wise the lengths being unattached to one another. The black aprons must not be omitted, for they are us popular as ever and so, too, are the peasant aprons, which latter aro gayer than ever in the worsted embroideries of many colors. The black a prons are in

and in combination with other pelts. Chinchilla rat, which a French designer introduced last year. Is used a great deal this season for trimmlnj? as, for that matter, are the skins of almost all small animals. Murmel, a species of weasel with a peculiarly glossy fur, Is used not only as a trimming but promises also to be as popular for coats as kolinsky although much less expensive. Silvered mink is new, and blue rat, badger, wild cat and rabbit, the last frankly under its own name, are all in evidence. Gilets of all shapes, and many oddly shaped collars are among the new ' features. Gilets in silvered mink or ' rabbit are worn with tailored suits. ! M in the lur coats or surpuce neI sign. Venetian collars and short capes of fur are often seen with fur or cloth coats, while many of them are large enough to serve as Independent capes. Overcapes, cut circular or In hand-' kerchief shapes, will undoubtedly be in high favor since they come In most Interesting combinations of furs and are neither too formal nor too incorseting, for this apron fits as smoothly about the waist and over the hips as any of the new boned frocks. The hem is faced up at the right side for the space of ten Inches with a piping of canary-colored sateen let in. The sleeves and neck are similarly finished. Many of thesa aprons are clven' uneven hemlines which are variously finished with facings, pipings, bandings and lace. Soft green taffeta with pocketa of dotted net makes one of the slip-on aprons, the skirt portion of which is quite full and the waist almost at the Empire line. Lace bretelles cross each other after passing up over the shoulders to fasten each at the belt with a cabochon of velvet forget-me-nots, from which a small show of bebe ribbon-ends float. A dainty apron It Is, but easily made from a discarded party frock. ft V1? i t y -, ' Reminiscent Of The Days Of Sampiers, Tills Dainty Apron Of Biscuit Colored Canvas Is Quite Modern.

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