Hammond Times, Volume 16, Number 110, Hammond, Lake County, 27 October 1922 — Page 17

Page PDF (790.58 KB)

Back to issue view

j 'f

5--" .-S," - V

-i

i XT.

-1 -1 i

I ,FgS:. - .

i V

5 i , ' . " ft 1

4 -iV

.1 f.V

1 S '4

-r - t ' ' . 4 . I

y ''tit'

"JJ

Several Silhouttes Are in Evidence, Including the Cape, Draped, Bloused and Paneled TreatmentsEffective Sleeves and Shoulders Featured Collars.

1 VERT woman should determine thij season, if never before, to make herself as attractive as I carefully selected clothes will

maKe her for not In years has such an opportunity for dressing up to her individuality been open to her. Fabrics are beautiful, the list of trimmings, with which to adjust lines, is long and varied, and colors are so closely graded that the usual difficulty of matching tones, tints and shades is practically eliminated. Only an understanding of what is what in fashIon, coupled with a sense of one's own requirements is necessary to complete satisfaction; the rest is merely a matter of adjustment, at least, to the woman who is possessed of dress sense. Involving many new details that emphasize the trend of fashion, cloth coats are yet unusually practical and eerviceable. Many of them are simple, notwithstanding much embroidery, much fur and other trimming motifs in profusion, which frequently are found together in a single garment, as in the very good looking model shown above. It is of soft brown marvella, with its circular back section of all-over chenille embroidery, and its shorter cape-front banded and collared with beaver. It is not easy to classify these cloth coats. The majority of them, like the one Just described, are elaborate in detail, strikingly fashionable; yet somehow entirely suitable for any occasion for which a cloth coat could be required. The combination of cape and coat is one of the features that contributes to this qualification, y and another is that the colors, the shadowy browns, the new reda, black and the occasional new blue, are In themselves a bit more distinctive than the shades ordinarily ir.troduced for fall wear, and this gives a new ensemble effect that is neither too formal nor yet lacking in dignity. There are, however, many cape wraps that are expressly designed to Interpret the more practical mode, such as the one of Juliette cloth also illustrated. In this there is a long, straight cape which Is made separate and can be worn apart from a threequarter cape which is raised sufficiently at the neck in the back to produce a decided flare, causing this cape to stand well out and away from the under one. Emphasizing Side Flares For coats, as In dresses, there seems to be a continued Interest in flying panels, shoulder capes, irregular hems and other features that produce flaring side effects. As an example of this tendency, none is more apt than the one pictured herewith of veldyne with beaver trimmings and the utility coat with, its hint of the military in lt lines and its bands of fur fabric introduced as trimmings. The former takes on the much-coveted coat-wrap lines, although the. large, square sleeves are clearly sleeves and the waist-line is marked with many rows of shirring The panel at the back, which, started at the neck underneath a rondeau collar of beaver, drops to the hem of the coat, there to be gathered into a point and finished with a heavy brown silk tassel which all but touches the floor, not only provides for additional warmth but adds consider

ably to the peculiar swinging lines of this model which are further indicated by the side panels weighted with fur. The model in basket-cloth has many novel details, chief of which is the cape that -Is continued Into a panel that is wide enough and long enough to cover the entire back of the coat after forming a shoulder cape. The coat fastens invisibly down the, front and has a collar of the goods shirred into bands of fur fabric with which, also, all edges are outlined. Since the silhouette is so variable a quantity this season, coats follow the cue and are as often flaring or bulky as they are slim, but about each there is a certain luxuriousness that is noticeable, even beyond what the beauty of their fabrics and the furs and embroideries that adorn them would give. It cannot be definitely expressed and can only be ascribed to the peculiar combination of all the details that go to make up the coats of this season. Costume Coats It is not at all strange that the prominence of the separate coat should have led to a demand for elaborate costume coats, as it has. The materials, even those for the fairly moderate-priced top coats and wraps, are so smart that, aa already Intimated here, they automatically bespeak a formality out of all comparison with the coats of those other seasons, when broadcloth and a scant half-dozen other fabrics made up the complete list. The dark blue velours illustrated is a wonderfully successful costume. The Jabot is faced with the same light gray crepe de chine with which the long coat is lined, and there Is a charming blouse of the exact shade of gray crepe to which the skirt is attached with a fiat silver braid and two rows of silver soutache outlining a narrow belt. Very fine silver rattail traces an all-over design on the blouse. Dull silver soutache with silk embroidery forms a pretentious border for the coat while many rows of the soutache encircle the flowing three-quarter sleeves to give them a fitting finish. The coat fastens close up to the neck with a tiny collar of Hudson seal, and again at the waistline with a buckle of tarnished silvei Such coats as these loose swagger ones are easily adaptable for wear in place of a separate wrap, and many women, devoted to the tailored suit, and not wishing to assume the expense of a cloth coat for between seasons, are utilizing them until the fur coat becomes imperative. As they are made up in a greater variety of colors than the separate wraps, there Is another pretty distinction about them. They are, to be sure, more like the separate coats of years ago than the wrappy coats of today, but the American girl always was partial to the tailored idea and in the midst of a perfect avalanche of the former models, these suit coats, so admirably shaped that they must have been fitted over corseted figures, are much sought. Lluht Coata With Dark Frocks Nothing is smarter, if only by virtue of contrast, than the three-quarter coat of one or another of the suit fabrics, but particularly one of those of suede finish in a bisque, a gray or

&yzf- jkt croy-

9' T Jr '

a yellow, topping a black dress. The coat usually has a dress of Its own material and Is lined with some startling color to effect the proper contrast there, but It is the light coat, never over-reaching the three-quarter line, worn occasionally with a dark frock, that gives a real fillip to the fashion season and. Just incidentally, provides for two costumes in place of one. This suggestion is interestingly carried out in a costume of pigskin duvetyn of a silk and wool weave. The coat has a raglan back with a front of circular cut. How the two are Joined only the designer can tell, for in the way in which the two sections are put together with the sleeves cut, not as raglan sleeves ordinarily are cut, but with a much shorter shoulder-seam, lies the novelty. It is most unusual, with the hem-line very uneven and both front and back very widely flared. The coat, like the other light-colored models described, has Its own dress, but, at the same time, it was obviously designed to be worn on occasion with a dark dress, and is even more distinguished in that combination. A collar and broad cuffs of skunk fur provide a perfect "last touch." unless that rests with the lining, which is a marvelous flame color

j. ... 'i

A -.-.y.'f:'hfr-jf

; .

satin with threads of red gold in it. It 13 just another of Fashion's little contraries that with skirts suddenly dropped to the instep or ankle, short coats should become a fad. But true it Is. If the long coats and this applies both to the suit and to the separate coat are popular, so, too. are the very short box-coats, coats that barely reach the hip-line, coats thai cover the hips, and, as if to make the fame of Fashion more intricate, really tiny coats that no more than cover the normal waistline. These last named are really the novelty of the season and, strangely enough, they are not exactly as extreme in appearance as would seem from a mere description of them, for there is very apt to be a longer backpanel, as In a smart coat of this type developed In navy gerona, without which it Is a style possible only to the exceedingly slender f.gure. In this coat, as in most of the models, there is a fur collar with tabs in front and there are narrow sleeve-bands of fur and long lines of embroidery down

the sleeves, all of these features being studiously contrived to give style lines that will counteract the abbreviated effect. Less embroidery is seen on the fall and winter coats. What there Is Is of chenille gold thread and fine silk rather than in the floss, and frequently in conjunction with beautiful flat silk braid which usually appears on sleeves or panels rather than on the body of the garment, as last yejir.

Alyyy Cfyy.yr

yr-zyyt

FOR

HE wise bride, in these practical

days, considers not only her gown carefully but all the other details

too, choosing not simply what appeals to her for the moment but what will retain its charm and usefulness beyond the day of days. Materials should be rich and of an excellent quality but it is not necessary to be rashly extravagant and to acquire dozens of articles more than any bride could hope to wear, for things change so rapidly that advance stocks, even of lingerie, are a mistake. The gown is always a matter purely of individual choice adapted to the circumstances of the bride, the character and hour of the wedding and the position in society the married pair are to occupy after, but for the trousseau, the other gowns, the underthings and the infinity of small belongings, any

THE AUTUMN BRIDE

few

bride-to-be might appreciate a

suggestions. For the negligee, for Instance, there are some long, wide-sleeved things in coat effects that are adorable. One in daffodil yellow crinkled silk crepe Is edged all around with white moufflon about two Inches wide. The coat turns away at the neck with tailored revers and the rronts are caught together at the waistline with long ribbons. Then for her feet there are, first of all, mules in red and silver brocade that tie with silver ribbons around the ankle to prevent them from slipping off as mules have a way of doing. An arched toeplece is edged with fluffy white swansdown. A little boudoir cap of black lace is most engaging. The black lace forms the top which Is gathered into

a band of silver lace finished at either side with a narrow frill of creamy white lace, and from under this drops a second and wider frill, after the manner of lace frills on hat brims. Corsets for the bride are amazingly fovely of soft and supple white satin with hardly a bone in them, embroidered with sprays of orange blossoms scattered about over them. The strings are of strong white satin ribbon and a frill of real lace finishes the top, while from the lower edge falls another flounce of lace, this time long enough to serve as a petticoat. This last touch, however, the bride of today adds herself. Lace edged handkerchiefs are back in fashion and the discerning bride will acquire at least ne for the wedding occasion.

0f lew and Impressive Charm

O be In keeping with the other articles of the feminine outfit this season, handbags and purses are both novel and beautiful, with

many different types from which to make a selection. Fashion will have nothing of the comrrton place, but whatever can boast a degree of distinction is eligible. The two handbags Illustrated might easily head the list, for they are not only distinctive but possessed of a quiet elegance that is not always characteristic of such luxurious types. Both are roomy and convenient as well. The bag of moire, brocaded with velvet in a small scattered flower design, is mounted to a slender silver frame studded with tiny amethysts and given a clasp of silver filigree surrounding a large amethyst. It is lined with celestial green chiffon which, like the velvet, is shirred across the top and fitted out with a change purse in the brocade moire and mirror and powder-box with puff of silver with filigree mounts to match the frame. The chiffon velvet bag pictured with its more delicate but no less beautiful mounting of gold filigree, is exquisitely lined wlthipricot silk, but has no flnlners save f?r a tiny pocket for chanse. Xot all the baes are so conservative in shape, thoueh been use of its usefulness, it is arrnn? the most popular and has lent itself to mans variations one of which shows a plain velvet with the ends solidly beaded in jet and a Jet mounting. Another variation transforms the model into a bag of Oriental aspect, for this time

It is of brilliant blue velvet mounted to a much more pretentious though less costly frame of black galalith with a blood red stone as a central motif and, depending from the setting, a section of knotted fringe quite twelve Inches long. Originality of design is fairly let loose in bags of this nature with their odd combinations of color and fabrics, their sumptuous mountings of gold and silver, their decorations that would have seemed garish and out of place in any season less given over to the odd and bizarre. The workmanship on the great majority of them is all that could be desired so that they are worthy competitors on that score with the bigs of sturdier appearance. Charming bags of velvet in fascinating colors which, of course, must be chosen to harmonize with the costume which they are to accompany, come in oval shapes and have fringes of ostrich fror.des in the same shade finishing the edge, and a little tuft of the feathers caught to the center as a decorative motif which, at the same time, serves to conceal a little mirror conveniently attarhed to the outside of the baq;. Green is a favored rolor in th?se basrs as in others both in fabric and leather and is found to have a peculiar affinity for almost any costume. In has? and purses of a more tailored a pe"t thrre are tw-i types, those In leather and those In fabric, each of which while there are not so manyvarieties as in the pouch bass still boasts a rreat many novelties Of gold brocade In envelope shape is a smart purse with a chain handle.

while another, longer and not quite so wide, Is of black moire with a delicate tracery done in gold thread covering the whole. Moon purses are a fad. There are any number of them perfect discs of moire or velvet with String handles and fringed edges, but only the larger ones are as useful as a handbag or even a purse should be

9i -

t 4 SS

;: -S'mXAZ by J,'-(t- J -

Mounted In OeHrate Filigree Gold, This Chiffon Velvet Ba-; Takes A Front Place Anions Accessories.

...

One Of The Beautiful New Tarls Bags Of Brocaded Velvet With A Jewel Set Frame. for they hold so little. Then there are the watch bags, the swagger bags and the vanity cases, each tyre with its own persuasive features. The first mentioned, as the name implies, has a watch inset in one corner, in the center or, still more popularly, in a pendant setting suspended from the clasp. This feature is vyy new and allows for all sorts of attractive possibilities in the manner of framing the watch, of which the designers have taken full advantage. In some of the bags, where the mounting is elaborate, the tiny watches are framed and hung below the clasp like miniature clocks. They are removable and ran be carried inside the ba? if preferred. Tho swagger bags with their tele

scope proclivities are always fully equipped, not only with vanity needfuls and the requisite compartments for change and bills, but they aUo have a watch tucked down in one corner of the outside and a flap that, fastening with a small silver clasp opens to disclose a small writing pad with silver pencil, a stamp case and a couple of envelopes, thus anticipating the occasion for an emergency note. In pocketbook shape In morocco are some sturdy looking vanity cases and purses combined which, at the same time, are really smart. They are rimmed with gold and decorated with pretty figurines in white, sometimes in low relief. They are beautifully lined with silk and have all the necessary equipments of the shopper, each article In its own well-arranged compartment. . . - Ribbon bags, bags which are of leather but with moire ribbon two inches wi3e looped around them, their ends taken in with the steel mountings, and some envelope-shaped purses with one single band of broad moire stretched through the center, are noted among the moderate priced novelties, and there are many purses in leather that are studded with steel and bags upon which steel bead embroidery figures. Many women like the tiny Japanese purses, that are just large enough to hold dimes and nickels, to tuck Into their handbags or into their sleeve cuffs. These come in silk brocades or In plain silk with a decorative bit of hand painting on the side. Evening bags, apart from ths dance bags, are of brilliant colors and. like the bags illustrated, of velvet brocade, of one or another of the lovely metal cloths or of 'embossed chiffon and with frames of galalith or stonestudded filigree. The chiffon baps have one layer posed over another, each of a different color, and these sometimes are mounted on amber or mother-of-pearl frames and are the daintiest things imaginable.

Pi - 4

.V'' s- - s V