Hammond Times, Volume 16, Number 94, Hammond, Lake County, 9 October 1922 — Page 7

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Shapes of Every Description Featured in Late Fall Openings - Novel Trimming Motifs the Season's Smartest Fashion Note - Black Velvet Leads.

HAT the new hats are as revolutionary as the autumn frocks is another praof that we are entering upon a season of extraordinary fashion Interest. Rumors to the eftct that the Ions skirts would eliminate the small hats, leaving the field exclusively to the picture headgear, were unfounded, for while large hats are much In evidence at smart openings and where society congregates, there Is a preponderance of small ones, chiefly of the turban type, and a great many hats of medium proportions are shown. The point is, therefore, not that large hats or small hats will be favored, but that there Is so great a diversity in each class that any woman may find a suitable model in either type. Shapes Xew And Inspiring Among large hats there may be said to be five distinct shapes, three of which are illustrated. One shows the rolled brim in which a facing becomes a feature of particular importance, in this case a series of shirrings. One flares broadly and gradually and takes Its line from its trimming a large upstanding bow of velvet embroidered like the hat It adorns. A third type of large hat has a soft crown and a brim that curves downward, very broadly, at the sides and, in the model here shown, an inner facing with a fall of fine lace and a cluster of frosted flowers caught on to the crown, another to the under brim. Very often the hats of this shape have a contrasting facing or as edge that plays up a contrast. Of two other shapes, not shown here but equally in vogue, one has a stiff crown and a brim that is of prodigious width, accented by its abrupt turn diagonally across the front and back, the other having a mound-shaped crown and, in its different types, having a brim that shows several varied forms of Irregularities, but always managing to turn up, at one point or another, so broadly that it Just escapes touching the crown. The softly corded hats which, In some models, have the material actually drooping over the edge, are very feminine affairs and, oddly, have a special affinity for the large woman, providing her face Is youthful and the expression pleasing, for these upturned brims and draped effects are trying otherwise. . Hat Selection A Fine Art Many women rely upon their own exclusive Judgment in selecting a hat. They are so apt to choose the model that suits their fancy rather than the one-that suits their individuality. If they would stop to reason with themselves, or take the precaution to study the hats of others, they would realize that to be quite certain of a hat's suitability It must be viewed from every angle and this, obviously, even with the aid of the triplicate mirror, it is not altogether possible for one to do for one's self. The fact Is, that a hat, to be voted altogether successful, should be a trifle daring, as the final note needed to sound a harmonious chord, and unusually well calculated to accomplish this are the hats of this new season, taken as a whole. So far as the stage has concerned Itself with the millinery problem, there are more small and medium hats, in current plays than large ones, and the fact that the small hats, contrary to expectations, look exceeding well with the lengthened skirts is causing much comment. In one play, for instance. In which conventional dress prevails, ten different hats are required, and of these only one is largo, though In every Instance the skirts are of ankle or Instep length. Two of the hats shown are aptly Illustrative of the dlflVrina: character

istics that the most authoritative shops are showing. One is an excellent example of a type of draped toque. Its material Is chenilleembroidered felt, and the way in which the shaggy ostrich feather is posed across the back of the hat. nestling down Into the neck, is eloquently expressive of the trimming possibilities of the season. The other hat is of tan duvefyn with ribbon-bound edges, square crown and brim turned up slantwise across the face. It is provided with a sun-burst of quill fancies, a long, stiff quill, pointed deliberately downward from the center of the front, giving direction to the whole hat. Fabrics And Novel Trimming Schemes The black velvet hat is, as It always is, the prime favorite, but there Is an unusual number of felt hats seen and hats of combination fabrics and colors. Silver, by itself or with duvetyn or velvet, fashions some hats that are as fascinating as the cleverest designers know how to make them. There is one that Introduces a silver lame brim to a black panne velvet crown, and then fixes a pair of brilliant red duck wings to one side of the small shape. A famous French designer uses a gold brocade in a large, short-back hat. faces It with dark brown faille, then winds Its crown with black glycerlned ostrich. Poke bonnets and cloche shapes are tremendously effective. The former are oftenest seen in black velvet with a single drooping ornament of some kind at one side a great, soft bow. a clou of picot-edged ribbon, a smashing silk or sliver rose, a shower of ostrich feathers, a rosette of lace; or It may be. the hat has merely a blackjetted veil caught around It In such a manner that its ends fall In a jabot down the back or side, as the ease may be. Black satin hats, like velvet ones, are perennial favorites, and even

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among the Innumerable blues, gray and browns and the many novel tones, they are still the happiest choice if the supply of headgear is limited. Fascinating things are done with the small black shapes. One. which is exactly like an inverted fernbasket, has a curtain of lace let down across the back with a massive jet ornament above it, the front remaining severely plain, while the same shape blossoms out with a tight little bunch of crepe de chine roses in lively

colors at each side. .This model sets squarely down on the head. Parisian Variations And Draped Effects Variations of the English walking

hat are interesting, one Lanvln model of glistening black velvet being trimmed with peacock feathers which, after encompassing the crown, trail off over the side-back nearly to the

wearer's waist. Many of the small and moderate sized hats have their crowns considerably higher in front than at the back and it Is one of the oddities that the crown Is stiffened only in front, the back remaining soft and crushable. The draped hats are attractive enough, once we have become accustomed to them and to the long draped skirts with which they should be worn, but for the earlier part of the season, at least, most women will prefer the hat that Is more definite In Its lines. This refers to the draped turbans and to the large hats that have their crowns, and oftentimes their brims, swathed, but there are also some draped Tarn's that are not to be resisted. These are a bit youthful and. therefore, not to be considered by any but the fair of face, for this particular model has a severe bandeau foundation that is trying. A cluster of ribbon loops, caught to each side of the back, forms tho only attempt at trimming. Always remembering that the hat, large or small, is, first of all, to be a frame for the face, what trimming there is is arranged to accentuate, never to interfere with the contour. It is adherance to this rule that, largely. Is responsible for the dash characteristic of hats this fall, so that a hat that in itself seems nothing out of the ordinary, becomes literally a creation, not necessarily through its trimming, but by the way the trimming Is applied to it. Take one of the Reboux fiateaux, for example, in black duvetyn. It has a crush crown and is bound with kid and is Just a hat. But then Reboux selected some long black quills, glazed them and laid them, three or four, across the brim and, five or six, on the underside, all pointing diagonally across the back to the opposite side, and the result a striking, effective hat. appropriate for any occasion from morning to evening. Ribbon And Lace Trimmings It is another of Paris' fads for this season that hats shall be matched to gowns In color and, wherever possible, in material. Not until the early openings of this year were the possibilities of lace and ribbon for hat trimmings fully appreciated. Both the Paris and the American designers used these fabrics lavishly and with great originality. ' , Lacy veils and lace flounces of

varying widths are used in a multitude of interesting ways, and while the majority of these are in black, one sees a great many conceits In which both hat and lace are colored. A blocked hat In rust satin with a narrow poke brim has no trimming whatever, save a beautiful lace veil of its own color thrown over it. The

I veil being long and narrow, the ends

ian flown either side over the shoulders, coquettlshly enough, yet dlgnifledly. Silver lace trims a short-back cloche of dark gray velvet, the lace being wired into a fan-shaped motif that spreads itself across the back, while In front there Is a compact cluster of silver grapes laid close to the crown at its base. The combination of silver and gray velvet is a favorite among designers, silvered coq feathers, silver flowers and silver ribbon being used effectively. Ribbon Is used in quantities, and for daytime hats, after all is said, there Is nothing more to be commended. Observe the numbers of ribbontrimmed hats in any well-ordeieu millinery department, then turn your attention to the miscellaneous trimmings of other hats, and It becomes apparent that repetition of the ribbon trimming has no power to make It commonplaca.

FURNISHING THE FUTURE HOME

HEN furniture for a small apart

ment is purchased, it Is well to

make selection, as far as possi

ble, for the larger apartment, or the house, that will come In time especially If the furniture bought at the beginning is handsome and costly. If two small bed rooms in the apartment are to be furnished with single beds, do not, for the sake of variety or a color scheme, get one cream enamel bed and one mahogany bed. Buy a pair of twin beds and put one bed In each room. Then later, when you have the house or a larger apartment, the twin beds may be placed ia one bed room. If the foyer hall Is to be used occasionally as a bed room and one of the bed rooms turned fever to a guest, fix up the foyer hall so that some comfort can be obtained. One of the folding davenports will add dignity to the hall and make a pleasant sleeping place. The hall table may have a drawer and an ornamental mirror may hang over It. Two tall candlesticks and a card tray will give that table the proper "front-hall" appearance; but In the table drawer you can tuck your comb and brush and tolllet articles, some clean handkerchiefs and so on, and be ready to turn over your own bed room to a guest without a great deal of trouble and inconvenience.

OR several seasons the fashion arbiters have enthusiastically agreed with the poet that, "a woman's crowning glory is her

hair," and she taking advantage of the situation, has gone to almost unbelievable lengths In cutting, waving and frizzing processes until the wonder is thaUany of her locks remain to tamper with. Now. suddenly, much to the chagrin Of those who have gone to the extent of bobbed hair and permanent waves, comes the decree that the simple coiffure, fashioned of hair that is smooth and shining with the glow of health and careful treatment. Is to be the vog-ue. and that, when evening comes. It shall be adorned with a selection from an assortment of hair ornaments and head-dresses, some of which must cause the spirit of Ablhall. the Tyrian queen. whose "hair was glorious for twelve spans" to sigh a ghostly sih of envy. Most interesting of alt these new head-dresses. because unique and ultra-modern, are the new theatre hats, each one a revelation of the possibilities that lie in wisps of tulle and gold and silver transparencies. One of these is illustrated, a fascinating thing reproduced from a model created for a beautiful French

Eleanor Painter Offers This Little Exercise for Grace

ntT every wom.in can be a ravishing beauty but she can be graceful, and if she were compelled to choose between thorn, she would be wfcse. by all means, to choose the latter. Here Is au exercise to keep one fit. Stand. che3t up and out as far as possible, eyes straight ahead, heels three inches apart. (Every organ of the body is automatically brought into correct relative position by this simple

process). Kise slowiy to the tips of the toes, at the same time lifting the head and raising the . arms with the fingers outstretched. Hold while you count three, then slowly descend, bending the knees, till you are sitting on the heels: hold, then rise slowly and as you do so gradually lower the arms and head until you are upright aeatn. but still on tiptoe. Then 3lowly descend to the original standing position.

actress. Forming a bandeau Is a series of small gold flower petals which Is worn very low over the forehead. It is, therefore, one of the few head-dresses that Is equally adaptable to the new, smoothly done, coiffures and to the waved effects of last season. Springing up from one side of the bandeau is a long, graceful, uncurled ostrich feather which droops over its wearer's head. ' Red velvet poppies, ranged one close upon another, band a quaint little hat of rose-leaf tulle that Just covers a co'.ffure of black hair. The tulle is laid In small folds, and there Is a sloping brim, much shorter in back than in front which, also, is of the tulle. A trlcorne brim of black tulle, attached to a shallow soft crown of black satin, makes a delectable theatre hat that has a band of Chinese blue feathers laid along its edge. In bronze, with one of the soft greens introduced, or in gold, with a flower band, this type of evening hat would be Just as beguiling. But quite aside from the charming head-dresses which go so materially to make an evening costume brilliant, there are pins and combs which are also suitable for daytime wear. Several of these are Illustrated above, lovely lace or flower things that are framed, some with narrow velvet, some with gold. Spanish combs have lost none of their popularity, nor have the beautiful and less trying Velasquez combs, which are frequently seen in the company of the Spanish shawls and long lace scarfs, and one sees an amazing number of these at dinners and the theatre. Tiaras, formed of slender bands of gold, holding curling osprey tendrils: turban? fashioned of silver cloth nr

gold, in severest lines, and shaped so that when properly adjusted they show not a wisp of hair; a tulle skullcap, with a great chou of ethereally fine lace sprouting up from the center of the crown; a tower of white uncurled ostrich, rather suggestive of

charm of well-dressed hair. But not all of the ornaments are so modest as the ones described. At any gathering of fashionable women where evening dress rules, many a coiffure Is arranged with a splendor that is truly Oriental and, it must be added. In some cases, fantastic. At the same time. It may be said that there is nothing else among the ornaments with which women are decking themselves that so brings out and accentuates a personality as the headdress. Only the slender, youthful beauty should attempt to wear some of the head-dresses, and in any event, the head-dress, of all accessories to woman's costume, needs to be most discriminatingly chosen, but then, if

there were no other excuse for a re

the plume of Henry of Navarre; rib- vival of Interest In these pretty ad-

bon bandeaux and flower filets; Juliet caps of princesse lace, and caps built entirely of wee velvet forget-me-nots, and still other caps that are all of jet, dangling Jet ornaments at one side; caps that must have been inspired by those in some old Florentine portrait all these are just a few of the ornamental head-dresses that Fashion has devised for adding something to the

juncts of the feminine toilette than the fact that they have brought with them the Tashion of smooth, silky hair, eliminating the need for the Injurious permanent wave, they would be most welcome. But. to return to the subject of OrientaUtypes of head-dresses: It is interesting to state that they are acclaimed with much enthusiasm and

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This Filet Of Crisp Gold Petals Might Well Hare Once Adorned A Roman Princess' Brow

I-ace And Ulcssoms Combine To Raise These New Hair Ornaments To The Heights Of Kashinn

cast for, an Impressive role this sea

son. The Turkish turban, with its elongated line, is featured, not only in gold and silver lame, but In colored crepes and tulle and in a combination of colors, while the round turbans are simply stiff bands of satin and chiffon encircling the head, encrusted with feathers or flowers or, more often, with beads in vari-colors, or In Jet or pearls, with long strands falling from one point or another, usually from either side, in lieu of ear-rings. Essentially becoming to the stately type of woman is the Roumanian head-dress which. In the form of a tiara, very high In front and generally pointed. Is fashioned of lace and Is especially suited for wear with a white evening frock or, still more aptly, with one of black velvet. Young girls, and even the younger matrons, are loyal to the ribbon bandeau, which has been reinforced by a huge cluster of loops at one side. The slender band of artificial flowers, which literally typifies youth, promises to be still as much a favorite as if there were not a host of more pretentious hair ornaments as rivals In the field.

The return of head-dresses to fashIon received its chief Impetus from the costume ball given In Paris on the eve of the "Grand Prix," when practically every woman guest appeared with a magnificent head-dress as a complement to her toilette. Enthusiastic over the way in which these head-dresses "brought them out," Parisiennes pursued the Idea, the designers took it up and now no proper coiffure goes unadorned after the evening lights are on. If it Is not a theatre hat. it Is a head-dress, and if it is not a headdress. It is a hair ornament names that, it would seem, have a distinction without a difference. And while the shops flaunt beautiful and expensive trinkets for those whose pocketbooks are filled to overflowing, there is a rich assortment of less pretentious things much better suited to the modest costume, and certainly to the more moderate purse. There are, too, many fascinating head-dresses that can be fashioned st home If the fingers are deft and there happens to be a sense of the artistic to guide them.