Hammond Times, Volume 8, Number 91, Hammond, Lake County, 3 October 1913 — Page 11

SNOW WHITE MILLINERY THE CRAZE OF THE MOMENT

Everu Face Has a Halo of Net

The Old. Old Servant Problem

QNE has felt for a long time that the

THE woman who has been Blow about securing her summer millinery has a tempting, array of bargains from which to choose these midsummer days, and the clever shopper may find in the reduced prices fitting compensation for the loss of a few freakish novelties shown earlier In the season. It is In the small, exclusive shops of the big cities that the loveliest hats are being offered at prices far below those asked two months ago. Many women who would not think of shopping in these places earlier in the season now flock to them, confident that If the regular customers have left anything worth securing it is theirs. In these establishments there is no room for carrying stock over, and. moreover, the clientele of such houses really depends for support upon the selling of masterpieces before customers depart for "furrln parts." Snow white millinery is the particular craze of the moment, and these

fluffy, exquisite white beauties are fascinating when made entirely of white tulle, or the shady brimmed creation may be of snow white tagal, or it may be of leghorn, with the crowns composed of white charmeuse artistically draped. The sole adornments are superb ospreys, and the hats are -perfectly delightful affairs when so ornamented. Xo color is permissible on these all white confections, but it must be confessed that the woman who has left the summer of life behind her will do well to have a half doublure of black .velvet- This piece of saving grace must, according to la mode, terminate a few inches from the edge of the hat brim, where it will not be too noticeable; otherwise it will not cast the becoming shadow across the face that is its raison d'etre. The great beauty specialists have treatments for the complexion for

those who would affect this fashionable snow white headgear. One of the secrets is a wonderful complexion powder that is priced at $S for a few thlmblefuls, and another is a liquid face wash that gives Just the tinge of color absolutely necessary for the wearer of a white hat that cornea toward the face in all its unrelieved and pristine beauty. About the newest thins in summer head toggery is the one ounce hat, more poetically spoken of in the aesthetic millinery parlor as the "butterfly creation." Just as woman's gowns at the moment are made of the flimsiest and- most wispy of materials, so also are hats of the lightest character, and a cfiic little model, a la butterfly, la merely a huge upstanding bow of tulle attached to a little bag of trans

parent tulle"just large enough for the crown of milady's pretty little head to

appear. Tes, the girls of 1913 have a rare opportunity to pose as angels with modern halos, for every face has an aureole of net Just now in the guise of a knife plaited malines ruffle that extends beyond the edge of the hat brim. But let me whisper In your ear: Beware of this flattering enticement! It doesn't qualify as it should in the beauty class; indeed, it is not as softening to the fare as one might imagine, being becoming to piquant faces only. The very modish and immensely dashing hat pictured among the group of chapeaux is entirely covered with white net frills, a black velvet facing

Jf I : Y v I I

l7?n S:r A dashing and becoming picture effect.

' H5 . - f.TU Wit! -v? and streamers lending a note of sub-

THE SUNBONNET EFFECT.

last word naa been spoken on the

ever recurrent servant Question. Now some brave homemaker has coma for

ward to Bay that the housewife herself Is to blame for the domestic service being in such disrepute among the

working classes.

The housemaid's lot In most cases is

not an enviable one. . She has to work hard, gets very little praise and much

blame and Is only In exceptional cases given a room which is light, airy or attractive, and certainly her wage Is not

high. ,

Consequently the nice. Intelligent

girl thinks domestic service beneath

her. and It Is only girls of a secondary order who preside over . the average kitchen. The peculiar part of the problem Is that never have conditions been better for the servant in the house. Take life in a fiat. : The gas stove does away with the hard work of a coal stove, and there are no stairs to climb In doing the housework. Then, for the work itself, domestic science has provided a number of labor saving devices the carpet sweeper, for instance, and the vacuum and suction sweepers, washing machines and laundry appliances. In fact, there are many inventions to do every part of the daily work to be mentioned here. Tet all these aids do not seem to keep a girl in a place more than a short while. Optimists, however, foresee glorious changes ahead.- Housework,

they say, is going' to be dignified; it is to be treated scientifically, and mothers and daughters are going to take care of their own homes. Servants will rise to the standard of emulation, and the position of helper in the household will be eagerly sought for where the helper will be treated like a human being. . , It sounds impossible, but the optimist says it's coming, all the same.

The next generation will not have the servant problem to wrestle with as the present one has. It will solve Itself, and the Intelligent working girl will

choose the home rather than the factory1 FOLDING TRAVELING MIRROR

THE CHAPEAU "MAKES" THE COSTUME. LARGE HATS AS POPULAR AS EVER.

stantiality. Another confection thaj frames a pretty visage is the black hemp model, which is trimmed with uncurled white ostrich and two pale yellow tea roses. One of the young women in the pictured group is wearing a hat that could scarcely escape notice, though her simple little white frock alone would never attract attention. The hat is of black straw veiled with plaited tulle and trimmed with cerise moire ribbon and small roses. The wide velvet streamers, of course, give the hat its chief interest. And, by the way, the picturesque hat

addition to the summer costume is one that women cannot afford to overlook this year, for the sweet, Bimple, tremendously extravagant gowns need such additions to make them look as though they "belonged." One of the new folding straw hats is practical for traveling. These hats are pretty in the first place, and in the second place will stand much packing and unpacking without losing their freshness. One especially attractive is made of silver gray straw with a band about the face of green straw and a gun metal buckle as decoration at each end of the band. CATHERINE TALBOT.

It is always so difficult to adjust one's hair and hat properly in a swaying train or rolling steamship stateroom that extra pains must - be taken to

make the appearance trim, chic and

correct because of the difficulties and discomforts of dressing. A new triplN cate folding mirror is one which, when unfolded, need not find a resting place on the dresser or be hung from a nail, both nail and dresser often being absent in the ' confined quarters of a stateroom, but may be held in the hand like an ordinary handglass, while every bit of the coiffure and veil adjustment is inspected by aid of the three mirrors. These mirrors come in handy sis for packing in women's traveling bags and will be of great assistance in the making of dainty toilets.

Keeping White Hosiery and Shoes Clean

TT is an indisputable fact that white 1 shoes and stockings are the footwear par excellence for the good old summer time that is, every woman wno is willing to spend a small amount of time keeping white footwear white has become convinced of this truism. But shoes and hosiery of this sort must, like Caesar's wife, be above suspicion, for slovenly and ill cared for as black sfcoes can look they are never so bad as ill kept white ones. The secret of keeping white shoes In order is not to let them get dirty. On first thought this suggestion may not appear very helpful, but the idea seems to be prevalent that just because white shoes will clean the wearer need not go out of her way to avoid the mire. The shoes should be cleaned by having the extraneous dirt removed before the whitening preparation is applied, for many of these merely whitewash the dirt instead of taking it off. Mud should be allowed to dry; then

most of It may be easily rubbed off

with a brush or piece of flannel. If the shoe Is canvas the mud stain can generally be removed by scrub

bing it with a hand brush on which soap has been rubbed, but do not be

too lavish with water or the canvas is apt to shrink. The cleanser is then applied and the shoes or slippers are left to dry In the shade to prevent yellowing. Once a shoe has been cleaned with whitening even clear water will spot it. Spots on sued- or buckskin shoes should be rubbed lightly, very lightly, with sandpaper before the cleanser is applied, and water should never touch them. In white, lisle hosiery is preferred by many women to that of silk, as the latter is apt to yellow in washing and no longer to match the dead white of the shoe. Lukewarm water and a good white soap should be used when washing It. At the end of the ablution run the hosiery through water slightly blued, wring, pull the stockings into shape and hang to dry In the shade. Here's a piece of practical hosiery information: Always buy the same make of stockings, so that when there IS a fresh heap to sort the perfect ones can be paired off: then the darned ones, and the wornout ones discarded, instead of the owner having to hunt through a pile of worn stockings to get a wearable matching pair. This rule holds good irrespective of color.

ISN'T SHE CUTE?

sc Raspberries Are Here

AS a breakfast fruit raspberries are ideal. Having so little acid, they rank with sweet peaches and pears.

figs, bananas and sweet oranges. The fruits with much acid in them should not be served at the first meal of the day, when cereals or other starchy food plays such a prominent part in the menu, because acid retards the digestion of starch, j For breakfast, raspberries can be served cold and fresh with cream or they can be daintily served in glass dishes with a little sirup poured over them. To prepare them in this way select plump, perfect berries and place them in a china, glass or porcelain dish. Make a sirup of equal parts of sugar and water boiled for ten minutes and pour it hot over the berries. Put them immediately on ice and chill all night. Raspberries can also be prepared in this way for luncheon and can be given a more piquant flavor if stemmed currants, half as many as the berries, are added to them. A hearty raspberry pudding, which is wholesome enough for the children, is

made thus: Thicken a quart of hot

milk with a tablespoonful of flour rub

bed smooth In a few spoonsfuls of cold

milk. Cook it for ten or fifteen min

utes; then add a saltspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of vanilla, a cupful of fine breadcrumbs, the beaten yolks of four

eggs, half a cupful of granulated sugar and the stiffly beaten white of one egg.

Butter a baking dish and put the bat

ter In It. Cover it thickly with fresh

raspberries and sprinkle them gener

ously. with sugar and a few. fresh.

stemmed currants. Bake in a moderate

oven until it is firm; then make a me

rlngue of three eggs, whites beaten stiff and sweetened with four tablespoonfuls of granulated sugar and brown It in the oven. Serve either hot or cold with cream.

Frozen raspberries are a light, de

licious dessert for a hot day. To prepare them wash a quart of raspberries. Boll a cupful of sugar with twice as much water to the sirup, add the raspberries and cook for fifteen minutes. Cool, add the juice of three lemons and freeze. When you take the dasher out add a pint of whipped cream and mix

it in lightly with the frozen raspberries. Pack for an hour or so.

AN INDIVIDUAL OMELET

TCOR those who are so fortunate as to

have their breakfasts served on a

tray In their own room or for the in

valid a most tempting way to serve eggs is in an individual omelet, which is no more bother than a large one and

is far more appetizing.

Toast to a golden brown a slice of bread, butter it and lay an individual

omelet on it, which is prepared as fol lows: Beat one egg with a tablespoon

ful of milk and a bit of salt, put a tin ring in a frying pan with a small piece of butter and pour into the ring the

egg and milk mixture.

Let It brown a little on the bottom

and then turn it over. It will puff up very light and brown delicately on top.

Run a knife around the edge and lift with a grlddlecake turner on to the toast. . One may fold It over or leave

it round, as preferred It will slip from the ring very easily and looks as good aa it tastes.

n I 'rt far ' ' - v I - w- $r kA IV Mi?? I

Some of the Newest "Kinks"

PRETTY MISS IN HER SUNDAY COSTUME.

TSNT this a pretty costume for a cunning little girl of four or five? It is car

rled out in the popular fabric of the season, cotton ratine coat, bonnet and

sunshade all of the crinkly smart stuff. White ratine is used for the coat and

brim covering for the quaint "bonnet, and the figured ratine for sailor collar, deep

cuffs, buttons, puffed bonnet crown, and last, but by no means least in the esti

,mation of the wee wearer, the parasol. The tiny sandals arc of the approved

Greek cut and are of black patent kid.

Ice Tablets For the Bath. HPHE idea of ice tablets is especially attractive these warm days, but the chill character of the tablets is all In the' name, for they are really Just little cubes of congealed cologne and menthol, which when dropped into the bath or even into a finger bowl for the dinner table impart the most delicious softness to the water, together with a subtle and fascinating perfume. Twenty tablets come in a box, and this Is about the pleasantest way of taking an iced morning bath that has yet been

heard of. Is the Rubber Passing? Less and less are women inclined to wear rubbers. Even the best of the latter detract from the spruce, correct irr.w nf the costume, and rubbers on

the feet make one feel as well as look o l-iit riumsv. Women, moreover, have

so many pairs of boots nowadays In comparison with the one or two pairs that used to be deemed sufficient for a

neajtnn that the getting of one pair

muddy or wet does not so much mat

ter. Tan boots are the accepted sort for stormy day wear, and there is a new tan leather which neither mud. slush nor wet will stain and which does not acquire ugly black streaks across the instep from the rubbing of wet skirts. , These boots may also be cleaned with a sponge and ordinary soap

and water with no injury to color or

luster.

New Ideas For the Guest Room. The newest border device for the

guest towel is a sentimental affair well suited to a charming boudoir where women friends are luxuriously domiciled, but scarcely approprir te for a

man's room. At each end of tne towel

are garianas .or xiny auntm, a.uu

against these two cuplds, tinted pink and outlined with stem stitch, disport themselves. Over flowers and cuplds hover butterflies, also outlined in stem stitch. Charming guest towels for a

POWDER SCENTED

WITH ROSE LEAVES

lavender or pale blue chamber are decorated with tiny baskets, embroidered In pale brown and filled with violets. Garlands of lavender ribbon connect the baskets. A new idea and a very pre ft y one Is the crocheted edge on the guest towel. Any one who can handle a crochet hook can make such an edge, which is composed of the simplest scallops, and when blue scallops are added to a towel, cross stitched or embroidered in blue, the effect is charming. Tea Trays a Fad. Every hostess has her individual taste in tea trays, and the tea tray, by the way. Is very much "the thing." It is brought In by a neat little maid and

set on a small folding table by the hostess, and if there are a number of guests there may be two trays and

two tables, in the English fashion. The woman who owns a large silver tray

has it polished until it fairly dazzles the eye and then veils its brilliance with a thin handkerchief linen cloth. Glass covered trays with odd rims are very handsome and are much prized by their possessors. The woman who does not own a silver tray and cannot afford a wood rimmed one may invest In a bamboo tray and have a glass slab cut In exactly the size to fit within its shallow rim. These trays come In many sizes and are not at all expensive. A round or oval piece of printed blue and white Japanese towel

ing will look well under the glass on the bottom of the tray. What to Do With the Old Nightgowns. Nightgowns have a provoking way of wearing out at the top, while the lower part is still good. Cut the top from an outworn gown and sew up the top edge, leaving an aperture for the hook of an ordinary garment hanger to pass through. The long bag formed will f,all over light gowns, protecting without Injuring them.

TTD you ever scent your own powder with fresh roses? If you have done it once you will want to do it again, and If you never have done it try it this year. Make a powder from three parts of fine rice starch and one part of orris root. Put it In a tin box which has a tight cover and bury fresh, strongly scented rose leaves in it. Leave them there for a day and then take them out and put in fresh ones. Keep this up for a week and at the end of that time the powder will be deliclously scented.

For the Boudoir

Make Babu Comfortable In Summer s$s

nnw young mothers realize how very weakening it is for a baby to perspire too freely, said a grandmother recently. Caps and bonnets often cause dreadful perspiration In the head, and I have seen a pillow drenched with moisture when the child was lifted out of its carriage. For this reason I never put anything on my grandchild's head when she goes out in the carriage in warm weather. The hood affords quite sufficient protection from possible drafts, and baby sleeps ever so much better with her little soft head on a smooth pillow than when irritated with the tiresome frills and strings that comprise an infant's headgear. When the time comes for baby to be short coated it isn't wise to discard a binder altogether, but the long strip of

flannel can be left off and a little woolen "tummy belt" can be substituted. This belt is knitted in very fine white wool and can be slipped on round baby's body without the bother of safety pins or sewing. Sandals may be very cool and comfortable for children's summer wear, but in some cases they do more harm than good. For a child with weak ankles, for instance, they are most unsuitable, there being practically no support to the foot, as there is with shoes or boots. After wearing sandals for some months last year I found that my grandchild's foot turned over when he walked to such an extent that the doctor ordered boots for indoor as well as outdoor wear in order to get the ankle strong again.

M

FRENCH NEGLIGEE OF FLOWERED SILK. TJ'OR cool days during the summer one always finds need for a boudoir gown or negligee of thin silk, and the dainty creation pictured is the latest cry from Paris. Pink roses on a ground of silvery blue, with the pale green of the rose leaves adding another delicate tint is the exquisite color Bcherae of this fine peignoir, which is swathed about the figure, fastening at the left aid