Hammond Times, Volume 7, Number 305, Hammond, Lake County, 13 June 1913 — Page 8

Cubist Styles In Dress Are Introduced This Season

THERE are only a few real novelties this spring in fashions If one eliminates the absurd attempt certain style authorities have made to Introduce into their costumes and hats the absurd forms and colorings of the cubist and futurist schools of painting. For those not up In art Jargon it may be well to explain that these cubists are French artists of a revolutionary type who have abolished painting In the so called acceptation of the term. They deny not only any representation of nature, but also any known or traditional form of decoration. These "artists' maintain that they have Invented a symbolism in which to express their Individuality or, as they say, their "souls." Mr. Kenyon Cox, recognized both In this country and abroad as one of the world's foremost painters, says, "If these symbols express the cubist soul, God help their souls!" This remark of the famous artist applies as well to the dressmakers who are trying to make nice, conventional women wear impossible conglomerations of colors In the name of cubist art. And the milliners are equally guilty In the matter, for futurist greens, with purple and mustard shades, make awful many a "creation" for milady's pretty head. But perhaps the weirdest of the effects are to be seen in some of the ribbons of the season, with their little blua moons floating around on a mustard colored sky. Atmosphere 1 supplied by a few straight and crooked lines running riot among the heavenly bodies. This Is Just a sample. There are many other ribbon effects Just as bad and even a trifle more chaotic. While these ribbons are novelties, they are not In the same class artistically with the beautiful big flowered designs we have been using all winter. The frocks of the season, too, have their cubist block outline In the panniers, with thin wires to hold out the flimsy material from which they are fashioned. Indeed, the silhouettes of many of the street costumes leave one absurdly at sea as to whether It is a man or a woman walking in front of one. The impression in a number of cases is that of a man doing the Impossible feat (no pun Intended) of walking rapidly on one leg without artificial aid. Here endeth the cubist talk. Enter safer and saner modes. The very newest thing in skirts is the "zouave." which is tremendously popular this spring. In Its general outline It Is not unlike the pannier model, but it is all in one piece and not a separate skirt and tunic. It la first and foremost a draped skirt, Inspired by the souave Jacket, with the fullness all below the hips, so that the slenderness of the wearer's figure is accentuated. The folds of the drapery, beginning at either side of the center front, are drawn down gracefully and then brought around to the back, giving the same appearance as the front bouffancy. The exquisite model of damasse silk seen among the group of pictures has a skirt carrying out the zouave idea, the drapery starting though from a hip yoke. This variation of the new Jupe Is especially fitted for the stout woman with matronly figure. The coat gives long, straight lines. The Bulgarian touch of the season, without which one might hardly say a costume is smart, is. to be found here In the short tasseled sash of gayly colored silk trim-

T HOW THEY SIT

gIT down," you say. Why, yes, of course, any one can sit down! j Certainly she can, but the women who can do it really well are few and far between. Next time you go to an afternoon tea Just take a look around the room and notice how many of the women are sitting in really graceful positions. It will be surprising if you find more than two or three seated thus. Half the women in the world sit too much on their backs, in the position of the girl with her arms behind her head, which, by the way, is a most de-' plorable pose. Her shoulders are hitched up. and the part of her body below the waist Is thrust out. This does not look so ungraceful In the picture, for the girl is naturally slim and attractive and would hardly appear ungraceful If she stood on her head. But it's a bad position Just the same and tends to produce backache Just as fire produces heat. If you habitually sit like this you will have indigestion. The girl to be seen reading In one of the illustrations is sitting all on one side, with one shoulder lower than the other and one knee raised up, while the other is down. This might not UNGRACEFUL READING POSITION. hurt her if she did It only once or twice, but in the long run it is sure to upset the balance of her figure and spoil her naturally easy and graceful walk. A chair has a straight seat because you are meant to sit straight against it. If you had been meant by nature to sit crooked, chairs would have had loping or curved seats long before this day. So the next time you sit down place yourself back as far as the seat will allow, brace your shoulders against the brr- rhe chair, put your chest out

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THE ECCENTRIC RIBBONS OF THE SEASON ARE CHARMING IN COLORING IF A BIT BIZARRE IN DESIGN mlng the skirt at one side and in the coat collar and cuffs of the same brilliant hue. This note Is not outre on this black damasse suit. Another result of the Bulgarian craze is the revival of fiat metal buttons decorated with conventional Bulgarian designs. These buttons were very popular some years ago. Speaking of these useful and ornamental dress addenda, buttons are to be employed In unstinted quantities this season. Blouses, dresses. Jabots, coats and skirts are trimmed "with them in every conceivable way. Ball and semiball shaped buttons are much used for fastening the smart and the lower part of your body In and sit upright. There Is no reason why you should not cross your feet if you feel inclined, but it Is bad for you to make a practice of putting one knee over the other. If you would remember to change the knfce once In awhile no harm would be done, but as people IT'S RESTFUL. BUT RUDE. have an unfortunate trick of putting the same knee always on top the prac tlce tends to make them one sided. .One may scoff at the upright posi tion as stiff and uncomfortable; but. as a matter of fact, it is more restful than any other. It brings the weight of the body on the large hip bones, which are strong enough to support it. and puts an even amount of strain on all the muscles and nerves, so that one is not getting overworked while one is idle. You can sit in a straight position for hours on end without feeling at all tired. But if you begin to sit at the edge of your chair or curl yourself up in a knot you will soon find that you are restless and uneasy, exhausting yourself at a time when you are supposed to be taking the rest intended to fit you for energetic work. FOR CHAPPED HANDS. TF your hands are chapped try this pomade: TaJce one ounce of cocoa butter and melt It. then heat and add to it an ounce of oil of sweet almonds. Beat thoroughly, then add one dram of oxide of zinc and one dram of borax. Beat again until a cream is formed. A few drops of essence of bergamot may be added while the cream is being beaten If a perfumed pomade is preferred, but this latter ingredient Is not necessary and adds to the expense.

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skirt directly up the front, and those most approved are both large and conspicuous in coloring. For dressy frocks the floral crystal button Is the newest. It Is a clear, cup shaped affair with white porcelain center and decorated with tiny-floral patterns. Pear shaped colored crystals and round crystals, small, with a rose design in the center, are also novelties. ' In blouses to match skirts the liking for surplice styles remains, but not the simple draped effects that held sway all winter. "Now the surplice has been smartened up a bit. It is outlined with a braid or fold of its own or a fixed frilling of tulle or a plaiting of its own WHEN THERE ARE ONLY TWO IN THE FAMILY QNE of the hardest things for the woman whose family consists of herself and one other person is to provide a bill of fare from week to week and not be obliged to eat the same kind of meat many days in succession. Take the case of husband and wife. If the man is not one who works .at manual labor he Is not likely to have a large appetite. The woman does her own housework perhaps, and she, too. Is not a heavy eater. A ten pound roast would last two persons of this kind even more than a week. , To buy much less prevents them fr?m securing the best cut of beef, although when they buy lamb the case Is different, as it is quite possible to get a good roast much smaller. A fine Idea Is to lay out a course in advance, perhaps something like this: Roast beef one week, lamb the next, turkey or chicken or roast pork the third week, then miscellaneous dishes the fourth week, like salads from chicken or lobster and a boiled dinner thrown in. This would give sufllcient change to satisfy most tastes. Let the roast beef be seven or eight pounds of sirloin. Have It boned and one slice of steak cut off. The steak will do for Sunday's dinner, the bones will make a splendid vegetable soup for Monday's dinner, and by Tuesday the meat will be ready to roast. It will surely last the usual family of two Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, and maybe there will be enough left for a stew on Saturday. Fish may be served one Friday and oysters, if In season, the next Friday. The second week an eight pound leg of lamb will give chops for Sunday. Cut the bones out and take them oft both ends of the roast, and a vegetable stew may be had again Monday and the rest of the lamb on the next three days. So on with the other meats pro vided for the different weeks. It Is possible and advantageous to have fish twice during the week. Scalloped flsh makes an excellent dish occasionally. Of course the menu that is precribed above is meant for dinner only, whether served at night or in the middle of the day. It is for the man with a limited income, say from tl to $30 per week, where the wife does her own work. For those of smaller incomes possibly roast sirloin is too expensive, and also roast lamb. Then rib or rump roast and mutton may be substituted. A slice of cold roast beef or lamb will be acceptable In the morning often with the egg. Cold corned beef Is an excellent dish to keep in the pantry in case of unexpected demand. It makes a good rel ish at night with supper if the meal Is ' served then Instead of dinner.

GIRLISH SUMMER HAT. material. In fact, something of the droopiness that has characterized blouses of late has disappeared. But, apropos of the surplice blouse, I must give you a description of one to be seen among the cuts that I am sure will appeal to you Irresistibly. There Is, first of all, a yoke, an Irregular shaped one, from which the fronts of the blouse material are attached SMART COAT3 AfANT of the best looking coats for children this season are made of checked suitings. These little checks have a style all their own, and if a plain hat in a darker shade of the predominating color in the check is selected to go with such a garment the effect is sure to be becoming to almost any child. A number of the new coat models are cut with the plain boyish lines so becoming to well built children. Other designs have the belted effect at the waist, while still others have either box or straight plaits. One very good looking model Is cut in Russian style with wide plaits at either side of the front and black vel NEW PILLOW FOR "fur .: e.v, 'M AAN EASY' TO

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long and short stitch, and then the background Is filled in solidly with a darning stitch. The centers of the' flowers are filled with French knots.

SUIT WITH NEW DRAPERY. after being laid In rather wide plaits. An accordion plaited vest of white chiffon is Introduced into the blouse, which is of yellow crape, and the finishing touch is given by a tie of black velvet ribbon and a handsome lace collar. Hats this spring require a story entirely to themselves; but, barring this, one might say in postscript fashion

FOR CHILDREN vet collar and cuffs, a black straw or lace hat would be a charming one to accompany this coat. Other pretty models seen are of brown and tan checked materials, while still others are in blue and white. Corduroy, too. Is a fabric much used for childrn's coats this season. Many of these have collar and cuffs of plain velvet in the same shade, but perhaps a contrast in collar and cuffs is more up to date. Some of the newest corduroy coats have sashes which fall in long ends at the side front. When bought in the shops these coats are rather expensive, but the little garments can be made at home at small expense THE LIVING ROOM w yi -mwt. LAUNDER PILLOW. first outlined and slightly shaded with

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that they remind one very forcibly of a ! scene in a popular play where one of the characters holds up to ridicule woman's extravagance in paying absurdly high prices for hats with almost no ornamentation. The unfashionable model that pointed the "awful exam- j pie" was too elaborately trimmed, and madam to brin the nrice un to ap

proved millinery tariff took off a feather on one side, bringing up the cost of the model $5, while the removal of a bunch of roses brought the hat up ten more dollars, and the elimination of all but a whisk of ribbon Increased the "demnition total" to the fashionable hat figure, $50. The hat pictured is a sure enough instance of how the prices of hats sans trimming are going this season. "It's the line," madam reminds her customer, "that is the thing paid for," and it is the beautiful way in which the feather is scraped almost out of existence that costs, one might add. The hat illustrated is a girlish model in burnt straw, trimmed with nothing more exciting than a band of black ribbon with picot edge and a sad, droopy looking bow of loops and ends. A hint of the smart separate coats of the season can be gained by observing the wrap of tan moire' silk among the cuts. The material makes the model unsuitable for Informal wear, but it is very Distinguished worn with a smart afternoon costume. A Bulgarian col lar is In evidence, too, on this wrap. CATHERINE TALBOT. TAN MOIRE SILK COAT. WHERE THE COUNTRY GIRL EXCELS "pVERT girl has her own particular charm, but certainly the country girl possesses some especially beguiling ones. To begin with, she is so much younger than her town sister, for all that the years may declare differently so infinitely fresher in mind, as she is rosier in complexion and brighter of eyes. Amusements that, have ceased to be amusements to the town dweller fill her with keenest enjoyment. Perhaps it is in delicious and frankly displayed Joy of life that the country girl most excels. Her tongue may be less ready, her general appearance less smart than If she had grown among brick walls and shop windows, but the country girl's bright face takes all hearts by storm, and the gentle friendliness that is the inevitable result of country nelghborllness makes friends for her wherever she goes, THE DYE POT SAVES MONEY. JF you have any good but soiled white blouses of which you have become tired, why not dye them to match some skirt for which you need a separate waist? To make the dyeing a success rip all close plaits or trimming's so the liquid may penetrate into the folds and creases. Do not attempt to dye a soiled or dusty article. Wash it first in the usual way, then rinse thoroughly and allow it to get three parts dry before dipping into the dye. Pour boiling water on the dye , and stir thopoughly before placing the article in, the liquid. When you lift the article out of the dye rinse thoroughly in clean cold water and hang out drlppingwet In the open air. Do not wring It, Whatever you do. and be very careful ini hanging up the article so that the clothesline will not leave any mark on it. RAIN AND CHEAP VELVET. TiON'T get worried if you are caught out in a storm while wearing a cheap velvet suit and must do without a taxi for the same reason that you bought the costume lack of money. Trot along as fast as possible toward a shelter, but meanwhile don't hold up your skirt or tuck up the tails of your coat. The cheap velvet may get very ! wet Indeed, but it won't be spoiled ' if you keep your hands off It. Don't sit down or lean against anything or try to brush off the raindrops. Simply hang It up out of the way of dust and let it dry. An act of Providence which would have ruined a silk velvet suit that you wanted badly, but could not have, won't injure the cheap tesj ture that you could honestly afford Economy occasionally brings its own reward.

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JJRUNE SAUCE. Rub stewed prunes through a colander. Make a thin sirup of sugar and orange Juice, enough to make the prunes as thin as apple sauje. Simmer until the sirup is as thick as marmalade, add a littla cinnamon or dash of cloves. The Juice of one lemon to that of two oranges Improves the sauce. Apple Float. For a oulcklv mA and dainty dessert mash well sweeten ed ana flavored apple sauce through a sieve, making it very, smooth and thick. Have the whites of two ecrrs beaten to a stiff froth and fold into the sauce. Set into the icebox until readv to serve. Cornmeal Pancakes. Th made with sour milk or buttermilk. iror a pint of sour milk take a teaspoonful of soda and a half teaspoonf ul of salt. Dissolve the salt and the soda In a quarter of a cupful of water. Add to the milk; also two eggs beaten light and a heaping sifted cupful of flour. If these are made Just right they are very light. TO PLANK SHAD. T O plank shad have the board heat ed hot in the oven and the flsh split down the back. Brush the flsh on both sides with butter, put it with the skin side down on the plank, sprinkle it with salt and pepper, tack It at each corner and put on the upper grating of the coal oven or the lower shelf of the broiler of the gas stove, whichever is UBed. Brush the fish with butter several times while t is cooking, and when It is tender serve it on the plank, if there is a frame on which to send it to the table, or else slip It on a platter and garnish It with parsley and wedges of lemon. Of course one may put all sorts of rococo work in potato around the board or even as a border to the platter, but such work does not make the fish more appetizing even If one Is skilled In these decorations. Little brown potato cakes made from mashed potato and egg and arranged around board or platter are more sightly to most persons. 8TEWED CHICKEN. fpAKE a chicken or fowl weighing about four pounds, one onion chopped fine, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, one tablespoonful of salt, one-half teaspoonful of thyme, one-half teaspoonful of ground ginger, one-quarter of a teaspoonful of mace and one-quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper. Cut the chicken Into pieces suitable for serving, wash it and put It Is a saucepan. . Cover It with water and set it on to boll. When boiling add the onion, parsley and the spices. Cook It slowly for three hours or until tender and about one-half hour before serving thicken it with three tablespoonfuls of browned flour and enough liquor from the stew to mix the flour. Be careful not to have It lumpy. When well mixed pour It into the stew and let It simmer for a half hour. Garnish with rice and sprigs of parsley. KEEPING WHITE ENAMEL WHITE rpo keep white enamel ware from dls-' coloring make a strong solution of baking soda and rainwater and put the utensils in it and boil them bar. They will be as white as new.. What May Be Done With Odd Pieces of Ribbon TF one is the least bit ingenious th ribbon box will afford materials for fascinating little neck fitments, as out English cousins call them. As an evidence of this statement Just take s glance at the charming little bow seen In the Illustration. Iwas recently sev o O! G O O BLACK AND WHITE NECK BOW, eral dismembered pieces of velvet ribi bon and a length of white satin ribbon. The white satin fringed at the edge forms one of the long ends, and the other Is a length of black velvet ribbon ornamented with groups of buttons applied in threes. The two looped little bow to which the ends are attached is of black velvet ribbon with a magpie border. The artist touch is shown in the clever mingling of the two colors in the bowknot. PRESIDENT'S DAUGHTERS SET NEW HAIR STYLE. fpHE presidential daughters have banished elaborate headdresses. Miss Eleanor Wilson fixes her hair with a single strand of brilliants, bandeau fashion, and the simple, girlish effect is being copied by Washington belles. Miss Margaret Wilson wears a graduated fillet which reaches from Just above her forehead over each ear. Miss Jessie Wilson, who has beautiful golden hair, arranges it In a simple swirl, pulled softly back from her forehead, falling Just over the tip of her ears.