Hammond Times, Volume 7, Number 244, Hammond, Lake County, 19 March 1913 — Page 17

THE NEW WORD IN BLOUSES Airy Lace and Net Costume Blouses Accom- ; pany Draped Spring Suits Intricate Designs of Embroidery and Lace on Lingerie Blouses Tucks a Spring Feature Tub Silk Shirts ' for Tailored Suits Gay Ties a Iew Blouse Feature.

J 'Tfie little "French blouse shops" in " ; 'tfci ; Side Streets off Fifth Avenue seeni almost .to crop up overnight." ''Evdr'y' time one cuts through from the Avenue to Broadway along some ; ' thoroughfare in the upper Thirties or '.lower Forties, behold a new and unfamiliar window appropriately deco..rat(J it pale gray and gold, furnished with a flowering plant, a rug ,and a Louis XV chair and exhibiting ' a couple of exquisitely dainty and -morel or less individual blouses .'backed perhaps by an equally pretty , frock or tha. latest notion in limp and ,r clinging petticoats. One wonders ,t how all the exclusive little blouse.and lingerie shops make a living, and the . . Inference is plain, that there are many women in New York who prefer to pick up individual and "different" , t blouses and frocks in these small and expensive little shops, rather than to ., make selections in the big depart.ment stores where models may al- . ways be duplicated. In almost every window of these , , exclusive little shops now, is a blouse ., of some soft, fine material, pintucked by hand and made quite simply. Pintucks and quarter-inch tucks set the -vctdrh of the tuck apart, are distinctly the thing this season, and a white thlrTon blouse 'tucked all the way A across front and back is particularly chic. These blouses are made entire-

' 1

' V ( Jj

ly by hand and are as soft and slimpsy as gossamer. They have linings of very thin white liberty tlk or of chiffon cloth, and are made in an imitation of tailored mannish waists, though one could scarcely call a chiffon garment put together by hand tailored. Similar to these exclusive tucked chiffon models are less expensive blouses of the new cotton cripe vhich has a thread in the weave 'that gives the suggestion of tiny tucks tun in the material. A blouse of this sort, priced modestly at seven-fifty, is cut on kimono lines, the long sleeve ending at the wrist in a narrow turnover cuff. At the neck the blouse turns back in four small points, one at 'each side of the centre front "and back, each point being embroidered in gay colors and tipped with a colored tassel. The turnedback cuffs are also embroidered in color. Balkan Blouses Show a Bright Color Touch. The blouse of cotton crepe, voile or some similar, soft, clinging 'cotton stuff, with a touch of vivid color, is a feature -of ,the new season. These models are called Balkan blouses and reflect the influence which the present war in Europe is having on feminine costume, for Balkan frocks, blouses and hats are all the rage in Paris now. At the tidy price of

rim1

U MM

JUU

Wednesday, March Nineteenth, Nineteen Hundred Thirteen! You arc cordially invited to personally inspect Our New Spring Woolens lust received. ' '-" ' - - -4 - Largest Exclusive Display, ol Imported and Domestic Woolens Ever Shown in Hammond. s Distinctive Tailoring for Men Who Care. : " A : : . i ' . : t .' J .

TAILOR

U J SB East

twelve or thirteen- dollars may be picked up a veritable bijou of a Balkan blouse,, made of French .cotton crepe with all edges bound- with red or green silk braid and, a small braidbound breast-pocket embroidered gaily to match. A flaring Directoire collar, also braid-bound and groups of gay buttons down the front and there you are; not much to show for your thirteen dollars perhaps in the way of fabric- and trimming, but behold th chic and the "line." as the deft salesperson in the little Wouse shop will assure you. Some of these Balkans have gay Turkish neckties of crimson or purple silk embroidered in contrasting hues. These ties are drawn softly tinder the rolling collar and knotted in four-in-hand style, the long, ends passing under buttonholed slashes in the front of the blouse and then falling free to the waistline. One of these Balkan blouses, made of dotted white cotton crepe and bound at the front, sleeve and collar edges -with green silk braid, was noted the other morning at the Ritz, the blouse being worn with a smart new tailleur of mixed black and white worsted stuff. and a black milan straw turban with a' puffed black tulle crown and an ornament of jet and emerald glass. A buttoned boot of patent leather with a perfectly fitting top of dark gray suede showed under a slash in the tailored skirt. Tub Silk Waists For Athletic Wear. The admirable tub waist of washable silk promises to be the accepted model for outing and traveling wear when neatness and simplicity of style are desired. Plain white tub silk is not now as fashionable as the striped sort, and stripes may be in any width, from a mere line of color on the white ground, up to quarter-inch 'and even half-inch width. Gray stripes on the white are not as modish now as colored stripes, and the favorite colors seem to be rose, lilac oliveTjreen, Persian red and Dutch blue. These waists ari sittinlv madi with l II u

yuui

MERGHAN

Stfatfe QHsot

long shoulders and wide armholes. When the figure is full, groups of tucks are set into the shoulder-seam' on the front of the blouse. Very exclusive models of this type have .turnover cuffs, and collar of fine machine embroidery, the silk tie being knotted under the sheer embroidery collar with charming effect, when its hue matches exactly the delicate color of the stripes in the tub silk. These washable silk blouses and indeed all blouses have very fanciful buttons, and of course, this year, buttons play an -important part in the trimming effect. Ball buttons of Roman pearl or of creamy white bone with a tiny rhinestone imbedded in the top are seen on many new blouse models, and some of the gay Balkan blouses show flat pearl buttons set in rings of color that match the color on the blouse. A February bride, just starting, on a honeymoon to be spent in the Carolinas, has taken with her four of these pretty tub silk waists for golfing and riding use. With her cross-saddle riding habit of gray worsted, will be worn white silk shirts striped with pink: and with pale lilac and the knee-length coat, inexpressibly smart in cut, falls just over the knee, tan leather puttees being strapped over boots of the washable tan leather which will not become stained if the rider finds it necessary to dismount in the mud, or has to stand about on wet turf. These washable tan boots may also be wiped clean with a sponge and ordinary soap and water, and are an inestimable comfort to the sojourner in a hotel. The riding habit is completed by one of the mannish alpine hats of soft felt with a perky little bow at the back. Lingerie Blouses Show New Machine Embroideries. The lingerie blouse of 1913 is -n-deniably fussy. Quantities of trimming ae honeycombed in its ;sheer ground material; bands of lace and machine embroidery are crossed and recrossed between motifs of the same

f0 T

. -

airy fabrics, and wherever there is a possible chance a triangle, square or wedge of pintucking is squeezed in. Naturally trie result is very elaborate and the average lingerie blouse of the season is a most ornate affair as ornate indeed as the silk tailored shirt is plain and unpretentious. The better class of these lingerie models are exquisitely dainty and effective, but the less said the better, about the cheaper models, loaded as they are with coarse lace and other trimming, and made of material sheer enough, because the coarse threads are loosely woven, but bound to thicken up at the first tubbing. An unexpected arrival in the blouse arena this year is organdie. This very sheer, fabric is used for many of the prettiest new blouses, and when pintucked and daintily trimmed, its effect is charming. Machine embroidery is undoubtedly the spring feature in blouses; even the hand-made F"rench models are lavishly trimmed with machine embroidered motifs and backings, . and the new hand-loom embroideries that have come from Switzerland this year are indeed lovely enough to bear comparison with any nand- . wrought embroidery ever produced in a French convent. Allover embroidery blouses, with touches of fine lace-like Val or Mechlin, are being much worn at Palm Beach with morning tailored suits of white agaric, serge or mohair. More elaborate blouses are of allover embroidery, veiled with net, and showing touches of color in pipings and tiny buttons; or they may be of sheer handkerchief linen with trimmings of St. Gall lacy embroidery, less transparent eyelet embroidery and entre deux of cluny or filet lace. Oriental blouses and lovely lace and chiffon models are ready for more formal two-piece costumes of silk, crepe-de-chine or the clinging silk and wool lansdowne. A blouse of black chantilly and sage green .chiffon accompanied a draped tail

U)lr lllni WIlw

TAILORING

leur of black lansdowne worn at a club reception the other afternoon. The chantilly was laid over the soft green chiffon, a vest of tucked black malines being set at the front between bands of black silk. A fluffy bow of black tulle finished the neck with its turnover black silk collar.

A FRENCH BLOUSE IN WHITE AND PINK. Brocaded cotton crepe is a new and very dainty fabric patterned like brocaded crepe-de-chlne, but being woven entirely of fine cotton threads. The Christiane blouse pictured shows a combination of this brocaded crepe in a white pattern on a pale pink ground, . with- ordinary sheer - white cotton crepe. The pleated peplum, headed by a flat bow, falls outside the skirt and gives length of line at the back. 2 THE BOLERO A SPRING BLOUSE - FEATURE. Once more is the gay little bolero jacket with us, apd strangely enough this Spanish dress feature arrives in a season when nothing else of a Spanish nature, save the Cuban heel, is evident. The blouse pictured is of light blue chiffon, pintucked in clusters and veiling white liberty silk. The bolero is of braid-embroidered net, and below it is a wide girdle of crushed black satin. The bolero opens over a vest of pintucked white net with' a smart lace cravat. This blouse accompanies a tailored suit of slate gray worsted with buttoned boots of dull calf having slate gray suede tops. A HINT OF THE FAR EAST IN THIS BLOUSE. Orientalism has crept into the spring blouses in marked degree, and this graceful model part of a spring 0 ini

.COMP

HlsiiiddiniddDiidcHo DuticUIiaciiia

trousseau is decidedly suggestive of Eastern dress. It is made of cream net flouncing and blue silk, embroidered with white, black and bronze motifs; and citron bronze chiffon is draped diagonally across the front. The sleeve drapery is especially interesting, a close-fitting sleeve of white chiffon being set under the loosely draped lace sleeve to soften the effect. The blouse was designed to accompany a draped tailleur of bronze green lansdowne.

COTTON VELVET A NEW BLOUSE MATERIAL. Sheer crepe striped with bands of what appear to be lustrous velvet rr , plush is a decidedly new shirtwaist material, and this smart spring shirt for wear with tailored suits of serge or mohair, is made of the new velvetstriped cotton crepe, having a white ground and stripes of white with tiny pale yellow stripes alongside. The buttons are of white pearl ringed with pale yellow to match the stripes, and the little black neckbow gives just the right contrasting touch. Heavy machine embroidered bandins; is effectively used as a trimming. THE CHRISTIANE BLOUSE FROM A FRONT VIEW. This view of the French blouse of brocaded pink crepe, shows the gor- , geous Turkish cravat and touches of embroidery to match, all but invisible in the back view of the blouse. The cravat and matching sleeve embroidery are in black, purple and red a very gay combination in print, but really wonderfully soft and rich in coloring. The cravat emerges from under a little collar of machine embroidery, and cuffs of th same embroidery turn back at the wrist. in ITU

ANY