Hammond Times, Volume 7, Number 212, Hammond, Lake County, 7 February 1913 — Page 11

V

WHAT SMART WOMEN WILL WEAR THIS SEASON tx

3 L

:::. a. .tut:

Blouse For the Tailored Suit.

NEWEST among models In Jong coats is the very practical looking affair seen in one of the cuts.' It Is made of tan colored Scotch worsted. Three rows of braid crossing each shoulder and running to the feet back and front emphasize -the long:, slender silhouette. Perfect freedom is given to the arms of this by exceptionally long armscyes partially overlapping the large and straight sleeves which are sewed into a waistcoat of, matching material worn under

the coat for additional warmth. The hat of tan rubberized silk is trimmed with an uncurled fancy aigret and the buttoned boots are tan leather that is impervious to dampness. This leather keeps its polish by the simple means of a soap and water bath. Precisely matching the shade of the full blown Caroline Testout rose of vel-

ftirrn , i MD m. Lh -Prnw-

Latest Thing In Fancy Veil.

vet and satin, the circular shaped bridge bag of moire swings from heavy rose silk cordage hangers intended to attach the receptacle to the wearer's girdle while playing -cards. The bag, which is mounted on a skeleton frame of dull gold, is decorated on one side with medallions of rose enamel, gold encrusted and flanked by fresh water pearls, and on the other side with a tiny watch surrounded by a wreath of enamel and pearls; Inside the bag are

compartments for bills, coin and the usual vanity articles. The slashed tunic, opening over a skirt of contrasting material, is a fea

ture of the fall fashions, and some of the French couturieres have specially

favored this effect The suit shown in one of the pictures Is of dark blue cloth.

and the tunic opens over a petticoat of the same shade. The coat combines a

Plaited Frock In New Style

straight cutaway suggestion, the fronts being slashed away, while the lines at Bide and back are slender and straight.

This blue cloth suit has touches of white embroidery and a collar of white venise lace in combination with narrow

The Contrasting Petticoat. satin pipings. It is considered smart. Here is a stunning example of the veil of the moment. Like two-thirds of the face veilings brought out for autumn use, its mesh, though of airy lightness, is well covered with a hand run pattern of matching hue and a bordering that la exceedingly wide, particularly at the ends. The picture shows a favorite arrangement of veils for autumn, for in nearly every case

Hard Service Touring Coat. the lovely cobwebby accessories are allowed to float apparently at will, but In reality they are securely pinned, as Is this one, to both the brim and the crown of the hat. An attractive combination of two colors is shown In- this separate blouse

of blue net, dotted with white pin dots and sprinkled here and there with large

coin spots of deep blue satin. This ma

terlal is posed over white satin with

Corsage and Bridge Bag. a wide plait at the shoulder line. Thle aids in givng the necessary fullness over the bust. The sleeves, finished with upturned frills of lierre lace, have

undersleeves of the same. The neck is cut out in a V over a high collared

chemisette of lace and the fronts are

finished with a double frill of lace centered with a band of green satin on which are posed tiny blue buttons sat very close together. To paraphrase the ragtime song, "every dressmaker's doing It" that is, making plaits in all sorts of possible and impossible parts of a gown. The fall skirt particularly lends itself to this new sartorial art, and one of the illustrations shows a full fledged offspring of the latest plaited notion. The entire skirt is formed of narrow box plaits that do not add an inch to the slim silhouette. The secret of this apparent slenderness is to be found in straps on the underside of the skirt that hold the plaits in place. The material used in this Instance is silk, which is the happiest medium for the new plaited expression.

CANNED FRUIT COOKED IN THE OVEN

KPHIS method of cannln? fruit, navs

the' government cookbook, is the one to be preferred. The work Is easily ' and quickly done, and the fruit retains its shape, color and flavor better than when cooked in a preserving kettle. Cover the bottom of the oven with a sheet of asbestos, the kind plumbers employ in covering pipes. It is very

( cheap and is usually to be found at a " plumber's shop. If the asbestos is not availably put into the oven shallow

pans iri which there are about two

Inches of boiling water.

Sterilize the jars and utensils. Make the sirup. Prepare the fruit the same as for cooking in the preserving kettle.

Fill the hot jars with it and, pour in

, enough sirup to fill the jar solidly. Run

the blade of a silver plated, knife

around the inside of the Jar. Place the Jars in the -oven either on the asbestos

or In the pan of water The oven should

be moderately hot. Cook the fruit ten minutes. Remove from the oven and fill the Jar with boiling sirup. Wipe and seal. Place the jars on a board and out of a draft of air. If the screw

covers are used tighten them after the glass has cooled. Large fruits, such as peaches, pears, quinces, crabapples, etc., will require about a pint of sirup to each quart jar of the fruit. The small fruit will require a little over half a pint of sirup. The tmount of sugar in each quart of sirup should be regulated to suit the fruit with which it is to be used. The quantity f sugar may be increased or diminished to suit the taste.

GARMENT SET IN ROSE AND WHITE

: ; i 1

The "Good : Wish" Necklace rpHE latest fad In the necklace line is the "good wish'' rosary. Dame Fashion now declares that the modish woman must wear a necklace of beads that to the Initiated seems an exact counterpart of the rosary carried by Roman Catholic devotees. The mingling of secular and religious styles creates many a fantastic fashion, but for the most part the result is satisfactory from a sartorial standpoint. Madam herself, always on the out

look for something new, has discovered that she may give her necklace an added charm by making of it a veritable rosary of good wishes.

This enterprising lady sends out now

adays invitations for a rosary party,

requesting each guest to bring a bead and a wish for good luck, so that when her circlet is complete each bead will

remind her of a friend who wishes her

well.

As no restriction is nlaced unon the

size, shape, color or decoration of the"

beads, a motley collection, lacking the

uniformity of the rosary of the church

is the result, but the queer collection

has the charm of variety. Naturally each guest at the party contrives to make her contribution different from the others and, if possible, prettier or more grotesque, according to its nature.

A girl who has adopted the new chain

idea has a variation of the rosary thatj

is curious and interesting if not artistic She bought a long link chain, using a quaint old fashioned medallion as a pendant. From intimate friends she has requested small objects as a

memento and decoration. Some of the

gifts are beautiful in the extreme and

others bizarre, but all of the curios when hung on the chain form an interesting topic of conversation whenever and wherever the girl happens to appear. ,

NIGHTDRESS AND CORSET CASES. '

rpHB sheerest of Irih linen is used for the outer side of this night rote case,

, which folds double, and at both ends is finished with hand embroidered

scalloped edged points centered with French knots.

At the long sides the lingerie portion is blind stitched to a lining of pale pink satin overlaying a thin sachet, and when closed the case is held together with bowknotted straps of pink satin ribbon. The square case, intended to hold the corset, is similarly constructed, and both receptacles are decorated with

the hand embroidered monogram of their owner.

THE QUALITIES OF A LADY

rXE of the first qualities of a lady is a low voice, but not a whispering voice. Ore must speak loudly enough to be understood. ' One reason why some people have to talk loudly in order to make themselves understood is that they do not articulate plainly.Pronounce your words - clearly and carefully, round out each syllable and even though you speak in a low voice you will be understood. Do not talk too rapidly. A lady never gives the appearance of being hurried, and be

cause she is leisurely the cultured woman never forgets the little courtesies which she owes to others. The courtesies are shown in a very quiet, unassuming manner, for the lady never cares to attract attention to her own actions. '.

DELICIOUS BREAKFAST BREADS

AUTUMN FOOTWEAR.

It

A UTUMN, as usual, brings with

several new styles in footwear,

RICE Puffs. Boil one cupful of rice titft Wiiin s.nl4 a A A na.i.ir Aim

ful of milk, two eggs, one teaspoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, two cupfuls of flour or enough of the flour to make a batter sufficiently stiff to drop from a spoon. Boil in lard like crullers. Emergency Biscuits. Take three cupfuls of flour, six teaspoonfuls of baking powder, one teaspoonful of salt one-quarter cupful of shortening (butter, lard, or both), one cupful of liquid (water or milk). 'Mix dry Ingredients

and cut flour into this mixture. Add milk quickly, stirring with a knife. Drop by spoonfuls into buttered muffin tins and bake. - Parker House Rolls. One quart of sifted flour, two tablespoonfuls of butter, one tablespoonful of lard, one tablespoonful of sugar and a little salt. Heat a pint of sweet milk over steam nearly to a bolL Pour ever the butter, sugar and lard in the flour. Beat until lukewarm, then add one-half, cupful of yeast (one-half cake). Let this rise until very light, then add flour and mix. but not stiff. Let the mixture rise again, then roll out. Pour some melted butter and grease over the

dough, then cut with a biscuit cutter and double together. Put them quite far apart in the tin and let them rise again. Bake In a very hot oven about

fifteen minutes. This will make thirty rolls.

Brown Bread With Raisins. Two

cupfuls of buttermilk or sour milk and one cupful of New Orleans molasses.

Mix and dissolve in it one level tea-

spoonful of baking soda and a pinch of

salt and then stir in whole wheat flour

until it is a little thicker than cake bat

ter. Grease one pound baking powder

cans (grease tops as well) and fill them

two-thirds fulU Put the lids on light

ly and bake one hour in an oven not

too hot- Leave bread in can to cool

about fifteen minutes before removing

It. Add raisins to mixture if liked.

This makes four loaves, for which one

pound of seeded raisins is needed.

Quick Graham Bread. Two cupfuls

of sour milk mixed with one and one-

Neatness of dress is one of the hall

marks of the lady. The girt who wears

fashionable top clothes and torn, un

tidy underclothes need ' not expect to

earn the title of lady. The refined girl

keeps her person and her possessions neat, no matter if they are not seen by another person besides herself. She always dresses In good taste. Both her dress and her manner are quiet and reserved in public.

OILING SHOES, pHE best way to keep black leather shoes from looking worn and also from breaking is to dip a small flannel rag in olive oil and rub it into the leather. If it needs further rubbing or wiping take a fresh, dry flannel sag and go over it. . . .' . - .

Light colored shoes and boots have dis

appeared, and there are signs of a decided return to favor of black boots.

A very good looking buttoned boot that is a favorite this fall has a golosh

of patent kid and uppers of hlack suede

or cloth, while another all black pat

tern is made with uppers of ordinary

kid and circular brogues of patent kid. This latter, by the way, should not be confused with patent leather. It is a

great improvement upon it in a great many ways, being mueh softer to the feet and without the heartbreaking tendency to crack after being worn a

short while. Patent kid may be trusted to wear as long and as evenly as the

rest of the boot.

The bronze shoe has been revived

again. It is worn with bronze silk

stockings to match. Nothing looks so

pretty with nattier blue, pale pink or pale mauve evening dresses as well as with pale sulphur and primrose shades

as a bronze kid slipper.

The new bath and boudoir slippers are particularly pretty, especially the fatter, one of the most attractive ideas being a Turkish slipper in velvet that has the merest suspicion of a heel, just enough to relieve the unpleasant flat footeti feeling of a genuine Turkish

slipper. These are lined with satin to

match the velvet and finished with

coquettish chou bow of satin put on a

little on one aide.

half teaspoonfuls of soda, one-half cupful of sugar, one-quarter cupful of molasses, one teaspoonful of salt and enough graham and white flourin equal parts to make a stiff dough. Beat all together with a spoon and pour into bread pans. Let rise three-quarters of an hour, then bake without further kneading in same pans. Sally Lunn. One pint of milk, scalded and cooled, one small teacupful of milk, one tablespoonful of lard or melted butter, two tablespoonfuls of baking powder and enough flour to make as

stiff as biscuit dough. Roll out the de

sired size and bake in hot oven.

4fr4-4- W4"M4 ! 1 fr I

unnccuni n tidc '

"t" t"l"I' 'I' C 'S1 't "I1 'I' 'X' 't' "I feiS

A N excellent furniture polish is made

of equal parts of olive oil, vinegar and alcohoL Rub in with one woolen

rag and polish with another.

Never scrub white paint with sand soap, -as it will wear away unde? the

grinding process, however lightly ap

plied. Clean it instead with a cloth dipped in thick suds of white soap and

wipe off with a clean cloth wrung from

warm water.

If you are willing to give half an hour of time and energy to acquiring a

bright polish for a choice piece of ma

hogany wipe it with a soft cloth wrung from cold water, then rub with a dry

cloth until the desired polish is ob

tained.

If your carpets lose their brightness so that no amount of sweeping will

keep them from looking dull and char

acterless, treat them to a generous sprinkling of coarse salt, then sweep

the salt up vigorously with a broom.

You will be amazed by the result.

White felt hats may be rejuvenated

by removing the trimming, dusting

them thickly with fine white cornmeal. rubbing the meal over them gently

and then brushing them briskly, first

with a stiff clothes brush and then with

a soft hat brush. "

New Shapes

' In Fall Hats JT Is noticeable that while. the derby shapes of last season are not shown In the fall collection, says the Millinery Trade Reyiew, the derby idea is the basis of riany of the new blocks and frames. The 'derby crown is retained with a number of variations in the brims, they being both flat and rolled of various widths running to about three inches for those that are rolled. The flat brims are even wider at times, reminding one of the Quaker brims. The same general idea goes Into extreme shapes, which droop both back and front. A shape of this sort is about seventeen inches long and thirteen inches wide, while the crown is eight to nine inches highThe postilion shape is another of the prominent styles. In the postilions the crowns are usually regulation, with

great variety in the brims, which go to

the length of twenty-two inches, width

fourteen inches. Very large flat shapes

have not been done away with In the

fall millinery. A feature of these large

shapes is a model that droops parasol fashion all round. These have tall trimmings protruding from the center of the tops, usually some sort of wing or feather with a cabochon base of plumage or silk material. The dress shapes have almost all the elongated shape idea, and head sizes are almost invariably large to permit the hats to come down rather far, but not to obstruct the vision. In tha smaller shapes there are variations of the helmet, for instance, having the sides coming out straight tabs above the ears and placing a collar of about five inches around the back of the crown, turned down like the collar of an ulster when it is halfway up. Draped hats are long, too. up to eighteen inches. There are a few small draped shapes, but generally height is thought of in some way, and when the crown is 1 high the trimming is a la colonel.

A STYLE BECOMING TO FEW Wpfc&EN

USEFUL AND ATTRACTIVE BONNETS

v

This illustration Made from silk.

(Designed by May Manton.)

JOTHING makes a greater appeal to the average woman than pretty and becoming headgear, shows two caps that are very attractive and can be made available for a number of purposes.

eponge, corduroy, linen and manjt other suitable materials, they are excellent for all outing wear, on the steamer or

in trie motor, and made rrom any or the thinner washable materials, such as lawn, dimity and the like, they become most satisfactory dust caps. The Dutch cap consists of two pieces and the other of'three. The making of either is a very simple matter and requires very li';tle time and no expert skill. If one of the little boudoir caps that are so much in demand just now is wanted either of these models can be made to serve by the addition of ribbon and lace or some such dainty touch. For matting the Dutch cap will be. required three-quarters of a yard of material ot any width; for the other cap one yard twenty-seven ches wide, seven-eighths of a yard thirty-six Inches wide or one-hair yard forty-four inches wide.

m

THE EXTREME DERBY HAT. HPHIS high crowned, stiff brimmed derby shape Is chio on a few women, but trying to most faces. The crown and brim of the smart model are of white velvet with a facing of red velvet. T:ie high "owl trimming is also of white.

SLAVES OF HABIT. 1rORE and more as we grow older do we become the victims of routine and slaves of the hour. The same round of duties lies every morning waiting for the coming of the mistress of the house as she takes up the reins of government with the best heart she may. The woman . who really rules her household and assumes the responsibility of wife and mother as her own and not to be laid on the shoulders of any deputy gradually in too many cases lets go the opportunities of Influence and blessing which would interrupt her prescribed order of accomplishment. All men. as well as all women, like to be understood. Sympathy is their greatest help. No woman who is self centered, who la vain and thinks only of herself, will gain the highest regard of man. She may be exquisitely beautiful, have a crowd of admirers at her feet, but she cannot bestow that wonderful happiness a plain little woman full of sympathy gives to her husband. If she understands him, is Interested In him and his life work, whether it be planting vegetables, composing music or building towers, she will encourage him. to reach his highest aim. Being beautiful will Dot make up for selfish indifference.