Hammond Times, Volume 7, Number 57, Hammond, Lake County, 23 August 1912 — Page 11

DIRECTOIRE TYPES PRO

M SED

FOR

THE

FALL

are most at ease when gowned In mod erately clinging skirts. But In connection with skirts the latest sensational model In tailor mades la the "jupe pantalon." or. pantaloon skirt. This recent Parisian caprice has little In common with the erstwhile harem

close gatherings at the waist line, con fined by small buckles similar to those used on a man's trousers. At each side of the skirt is & pocket, and to complete the resemblance to masculine attire braces fastened by buttons back and front hold up the skirt.

This costume, needless to say, will be adopted only by girls who go In for extremes In dress. And the wearer of the "Jupe pantalon." when sitting around at her club, smoking cigarettes, will look at first sight like a man la shirt sleeves.

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TAFFETA COAT OVER LINGERIE FROCK.

front and about the slanting armholes.

Tiny scarlet satin buttons set close to

gether follow the line of pipings.

White satin shirts have small crystal

buttons, and a fascinating trick played

by this new shirt Is the opening for

three or four buttons below the Robespierre collar, a shirred tucker of flesh colored chiffon being worn In the open

ing. This gives the waist an unusual

appearance until one discovers that the effect Is faked.

To come back to skirts once more.

there Is every reason to believe that

plaits will be Introduced In the

straight, narrow tailor made models. Some of the plaits appear In a panel

arrangement at the side and others as

back finish, but in every instance

they are pressed or stitched very flat, and the skirt does not measure more

than two and a half yards about the

bottom. For dressier costumes the accordion plaited jupe is seen even now

on imported frocks and in Its new

guise Is scant and clinging. Then there Is the plaited underskirt, almost a ruffle effect at the bottom of a skirt, say

about two feet deep, with a pannier or tunic drapery at the top, that is a -very favorite style Just now and Is a particularly good model for silk and thin materials. One of the newest fashions for late summer and early fall combines three or more materials in a gown and always two or more colors. The lingerie frock seen In the Illustration, with its dark taffeta coat, is an example of contrasts in fabrics, while the blue serge illustrated Is a study In color effects. Very simple In line is this coat of green and gold taffeta worn above a frock of cream net. The coat Is almost a straight tunic, with Magyar sleeves cut in one with the garment, but the exaggerated collar and cuffs in rich cluny lace lend it much distinction. Rows of tiny green glass buttons are set on the lace as an extra trimming touch. This is a French creation and accompanies a loveiy lingerie frock of net and lace. The skirt only appears

In the cut The colonial colors, navy blue and buff, are represented In the dainty little autumn traveling suit of navy blue serge designed for a September bride.

The coat is gracefully cut. and the walking skirt is short enough to reveal buttoned boots of dull calf. Among the illustrations Is to lie found a type of the directdlre costumes that are promised for fall. As you see. It is the masculine rather than the feminine dress of the dlrectolre period that has Inspired autumn fashions. This suit is of white broadcloth, and the dlrectolre coat is worn with a belt of empire green leather. Embroidered tfiite silk gloves meet the slashed Feevea. CATHERINE TAX.BOT.

FALL BONNET FOR j : THE LITTLE MAID : lea fPHIS charming fall bonnet for a little girl has Just arrived from Paris It la made of blue unout velvet, and against the b?ue material ere poised

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MODEL OF BLUE UNCUT VELVET little roses made of white silk that lend A festive air to the confection. The bows at the side and streamet passing beneath the chin are effectiv and graceful.

TRAVELING SUIT FOR THE SEPTEMBER ERIDE.

,IIKRE are two styles predicted

for fall, a revival of the dlrectolre types and the pannier mo.J.es not, however. the

i-.i.i'-r of clden times, but the new ,-viin"e.- of 1912. which Is a strange rcn-'c .-iig of the original idea. In many lEfcaxces it looks only like an overakirt that is turned over and fastened dov, n around the hem an Inverted bag; as it has been called. Women have besa so devoted to the long, slim line that, as a rule, they do Dot welcome wit.i any degree of en

thusiasm the Idea of being made to look like bolsters with strings around the middle, which undoubtedly Is the silhouette presented by the ultra pannier skirt of today. "Give us long, straight lines for our tailor mades anl we'll submit to drapery and hip effects for our less formal costumes." said a woman recently when interviewing her dressmaker about the ordering of "a few fall frocks." This opinion will be echoed by the majority of women, who look best and

DIRECTOIRE MODEL IN WHITE CLOTH.

skirt of fame except that the harem had the bottom of the skirt, while th "Jupe pantalon" gives us the top of the same garment. This latest, development la a skirt with a series of little

With this garment is worn a shirt of white percale, perfectly flat and plain, with long sleeves, wristlets and a high, stiff collar in fact, a man's shirt In all its unadorned severity.

There is, however, a mannish shirt j that Is going to figure this fall conspicuously In the wardrobe of every well dressed woman. This shirt is mostly made of white satin and. as I said, is extremely mannish in cut, after the masculine dlrectolre standard. It shows the long shoulder line, long sleeves and a deeply opening Robespierre collar finished with plaited frills. In many cases quantities of buttons are used to outline trimming edges on this new model. A delightful shirt of this character is built of pale gray satin with scarlet pipings around the cuffs, down the

Butterfly Effects

HERE is at present a craze for but

terfly effects. The design flutters

on parasol tops, on smart veilings and is worked In wonderful Iridescent effects on the new trimmings. The winged favorite is used also as shoe buckles, brooches, coiffure ornaments, and beautiful designs are seen In enamels and small diamonds. Black satin and velvet butterfly bows edged with brilliants or colored stones are

lovely. The material Is slipped into a

frame, and thus any color can be added to the diamond's rimmed bow.

SOME

DON'TS WHEN VISITING

'T'HERE are girls who always appear to get more invitations than they can accept and who are asked to the same houses over and over again, while other fair ones. Just as charming and delightful to all outward view, never by any chance receive second Invitations, The popular visitor is a tactful Individual who has the knack of so merging her Individuality in that of the family of which she Is a temporary membor that she scarcely seems a visitor, yet she never makes the terrible mistake of usurping family privileges. She Is not late for breakfast or any other meal. She does not give orders to servants or In any way attempt to change the household routine. When she is asked where she would like to go or what she would like to do she answers frankly. There is nothing more irritating than the "Oh, I don't care ia the least!" or "Whatever you like" reply. The desirable visitor ex

ercises her tact, however. In this as in all other things and takes care not to

suggest fatiguing excursions to a host

ess less youthfully active than herself or force a host perhaps not too well

dowered with this world's good3 Into needless expense. If you desire to be a pleasing visitor don't be too energetically bent on "helping." If you keep your eyes open It will soon become evident if there are email services you can render any member of the household. But the girl who Insists on cooking some particular dish or "doing the flowers" In both cases requiring half an hour's attendance getting her properties together Is an unmitigated nuisance. Don't monopolize your host's special chair or use his writing table without his direct suggestion. Don't Utter the living rooms with your possessions or leave your own room untidy. Don't. Just because you are visiting, sit down and expect to be entertained oil day long. Arrange to go walking cr "write letters" In your bedroom for an hour or two a day. Remembeing these things, you also will be of the visitors whose visits, unlike those of angels, are not few and far between.

TJHE new scarf arrangements are really so elaborate that they become part of the bodice trimming. This idea Is carried out on the gown seen in the Illustration. The long drapery of black silk netting is studded

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Worth Remembering rpo cultivate laughter. . A good laugh Is better than medicine, as a rule. To always keep your troubles to yourself. Most people are too busy to be bothered with or interested in your sorrow. If possible, to learn how to tell a gocd story and in this way amuse and entertain others. To always try to look on the bright side of life. See the good In people and things and overlook the bad. We can always find something that is good, even If at first everything seems utterly bad. If you are Buffering, to try to hide rour aches and pains under a bright and cheerful countenance, and. If posilble, a sunny smile and a hearty laugh. It will help you as much as those around you. That a good humored man or woman Is always welcome, but a doleful one is bave? wanted. I

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NEW METAL SCARF. with gold beads, and the length of tissue is wrapped first about the bodice in zouave fashion and then brought from tho bad. and twisted over the arms, where the long ends hang gracefully. Such a scar" ia adapted to a great many different treatments all as effective as the one pictured.

BE CAREFUL IN PREPARING VEGETABLES JF vegetables not quite fresh are brought into the kitchen there la no hope of ever restoring them to first class condition. Even good vegetables will not be at their very best if not properly cared for after they have been received. Most housewives think that washing vegetables with water is the last word in carefulness. So it is if the water is above suspicion, but when water is not considered safe for drinking It should

be boiled as well for washing vegetables as it should be for family consumption, i As to the best way of washing vegetables, a few cautions will not come amiss. Some people never eat asparagus at table unless It has been prepared by some one who Is careful, as they do not enjoy biting on sand. The cleaning of this vegetable requires conscience as well as time. The bunch should be placed, heads down, in water for some hours and should be shaken back and forth to dislodge the particles of earth. Spinach is another vegetable which requires the very best attention in the cleaning line to free it from grit. After the. roots have been cut off It should be washed in a number of waters and lifted out of the pan each time in loose hantlfuls bofore the water has been drained cff. Celery tnd lettuce and other salad plants, eaten raw. must be washed with especial care. They should be search. ?d with particular rare, leaf by leaf, for insects, washed In several waters and then wiped dry with a clean

cloth and put in a cold place to become crisp. Otherwise these vegetables are

not worth eating.

New Christening Gift QIFTS for babies are so often sliver cups and silver rattles that a nice gift, and at the same time a useful one. is a relief to find. However, it really Is to be had in toos which holds sis little pair? of bat y.hoes and two little pairs of silk socks, with one pair of knltti3 bootees. These are arranged in a box which opens with a drawer. The little shoos are pink, blue and white, and two pairs are shoes, two pairs are soft kid moccasins, and two pairs are little slippers, so that the baby is provided for literally at "every step of the way." Three little satin sachets are; also an the box, and the entire set may be had for $12.

Sure Cure For Dandruff TOUR over one heaping tablespoon

ful of sulphur one quart boiling water. Keep in an air tight vessel for twenty-four hours, then drain off the

clear portion. Rub Into the scalp every night until the dandruff disappears

While treating the scalp for dandruff

it is advisable that one be very careful about the shampoo. The following lifiutd Is excellent for this purpose, leaving the scalp beautifully clean and the hair as fluffy as one could wish: Heat the yolk of one egi; into one pint hot rainwater and add one ounce rosemary spirits. Beat the mixture well and use It warm, rubbing It well into the scalp and over the hair Rinse in several waters and sit in the sun until the hair is dry.

IN THE CULINARY WORLD

Grapefruit Cocktail. JUT a chilled grapefruit in halves. With a sharp, thin knife remove the seeds and cut out each section of fruit. Serve the pulp with the Juice in dainty glasses. Two tablespoon! ula of sugar and one tablespoonful of sherry may be added to each glass or either or both may be omitted. Another method Is to take grapefruit Juice or lemon and orange in equal proportions. It Is then sweetened to taste, flavored with maraschino and diluted Just before serving with charged water and put In tall glasses with some of the grapefruit pulp and a maraschino cherry. Refreshing Beverages. Any fresh fruit makes a delicious drink at this time of the year when the Juice squeezed from It Is strained, sweetened and filled with cold soda or aerated water. Or a sirup can be made to be kept on hand by boiling the Juice

with sugar. To make the drinks use a few spoonfuls of this sirup and fill the glass with water, plain or carbonated. The most delicious lemonade or limeade can be had at a moment's notice If the Jutce of the fruit be kept on hand and mixed with sugar to taste. It is simplicity itself to pour water over this, and the drink Is ready. Spiced Red Cabbage. Shave a medium sized head of red cabbage and soak for half an hour In cold water, then drain as dry as possible. In a saucepan melt one heaping tablespoonful of butter and one tablespoonful of sugar, one teaspoonful of salt, one-quarter teaspoonful of pepper, six whole cloves and one-half cupful of good vinegar. Add the drained cabbage, cover and cook slowly, then simmer gently for fully an hour and a half. Light Corn Bread. In the evening put In a mixing bowl one pint of fine cornmeat, a scant teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of

sugar and a large tablespoonful of

shortening, either lard or lard and but ter mixed. Pour over Just enough boil

ing water from the kettle to moisten

thoroughly and no more. Cover closely and leave for the night. Next morning add two or three well beaten eggs (according to the aeason). a half cupful of milk, one pint of sifted flour and as much more milk aa ia necessary to

make a thin drop batter. Pour Into a well greased shallow pan and bake

twenty-five minutes in a hot oven. Boston Baked Chicken.

A chicken Is cut up aa for fricassee, and to each pound of the meat allow

two tablespoonfuls of flour, one scant

half teaspoonful of salt and a dust of

pepper. Mix thoroughly and roll each

piece of the chicken in the mixture. Pack c'osely In a large bean pot and

cover with boiling water. Bake for three hours and a halt Cover after ten or fifteen minutes, but not before It

boils. Serve in the dish In which it Is

baked.

THE OCEAN TEA PARTY

A Dainty Collar rVO wear with colored linen dresses a sailor collar of sheerest mull is most effective. It requires a half yard of material. After cutting the collar out finish the edge with an Inch wide frill of finely pl&lted netCuffs to match may be made with rounded or square corners and edged with plaited net. If a touch of color is desired a row of , featherstitching where the net is Joined to the collar supplies It

MISS NICOLL AND HER FRIENDS DRINKING AFTERNOON TEA.

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rPHE very latest at the seashore Is the ocean tea party. The very original idea of entertaining friends In this unique fashion was conceived by Miss Charlotte Van Courtland NIcoll, a New Tork society girl, niece of De Lancey NIcoll, the famous lawyer. Miss NIcoll. who la spending the summer at Long Beach, N. Y-, Is an accomplished swimmer. Finding that this fascinating sport increased her appetite to such an extent while In the water that she was obliged to satisfy

the "inner woman" before returning to the hotel, the idea presented itself of having afternoon tea served in the ocean. Miss NIcoll outlined her Idea to the hotel carpenter, who built a seaworthy craft with a high poop deck to hold the teacups and commodious deck space forward and midships for plates of sandwiches and cakes. Everything being shipshape, notes were sent to several of Miss Nlcoll's friends inviting them to bar first ocean

tea party. After swimming about for half an hour Mlsa NIcoll and her

friends joined a young matron who was pouring tea behind the ocean going

tray. .

iaia pany proved ucn a success that the fair hostess issued invitations for an "ocean tea" every Friday during

August at 4 p. m.

The making of such an ocean going

craft is quite within the province of the amateur carpenter with a turn for

nautical construction.

New Touches For the Waist

ONE of the much talked about fea-

luica it. luc new wiiiaiB im nil

sleeves. The consensus of opinion ti all in favor of the long shoulder Una

which Is carried out In various ways

The effect is very much like that of a

kimono sleeve cut off just below th round of the arm. This sleeve la aa Ideal affair to apply to an old fashioned waist, aa It is not difficult to get thla effect with an old blouse. All you

have to do is to cut off the aleeve at

this depth and either tuck or pip the edge, then add the long sleeve, which 1 slightly full, but the fullness Is care

fully held In over the forearm by a

deep cuff or line of buttons. Cuffi

edged with a plaited frill both at th

top and over the hands are new and

add a modish touch to the waist. Th fact that aleeves may be of a contrastIns material, such aa laca or net, aldi in remodeling old ones. Another easy method of freshening a blouse is by adding a vest or blbllk portion of net or chiffon. Some of these are round, while others are pointed. The latter, however, are more becoming to atout figures. These vesta are tucked. Sometimes tiny fancy crochet or glass buttons are used. Again they are quite severely plain, softened at the edges with a plaited ot ruffled frllL The cuffs, with their plaited frills at the top and over tht hands, match the vesL A-nother "dress up" addition to a blouse ia a fichu of lace or sheer material brought down under the belt front and back and finished off either square or In a V shape. The laca cassocks and Jumpers of taffeta or th fancy silks are very effective In making the old blouse take on an air ol newness. Chiffon or net overblonses. although not one of the things one considers absolutely new, are ao delightful for rejuvenating purposes that they should not be forgotten.

Canning Suggestions "pRUIT Jar rubbers can seldom be relied upon to do duty the second time. After thoroughly washing and drying the rings drop them into melted and partially cooled paraffin until they are heavily coated. When canning use the rings Just as you would new ones. The heat of the Jar partly melts the paraffin, causing It to flow Into any little cracks that need closing. As the fruit cools the paraffin hardens, securely sealing the can. When canning use an old fashioned gravy boat with a handle and a long spout for filling the Jars with fruit. It Is quite difficult when canning peaches to halve them neatly so that the edges will not look ragged, but if a circle la cut around the peach before it Is pared, then one-half twisted from tha other by a quick turn of the hands, the edges will be firm and even after the halves are pared. No doubt every housewife has at some time or another discovered to her dismay that the Jelly with which she has been laboring won't "JelU" Let her then add a pinch of powdered alum and the result will be most gratifying.

Unusual Machine Work TTEMSTITCHINO can be very neatly done on the machine in this way: Draw the number of threads desired and baste the edge of the hem tn the center of the drawn threads. Lengthen the stitch on the machine and stitch on the very edge of the hem. Pull the bastings out and pull the edge ot the hem to the bottom of the drawn threads. Hemstitching done In this way can scarcely be distinguished from that done by hand. The sewing machine can be employed in mending torn lace,. Draw the edges of the tear together and baste on a piece of thin paper. Then stitch back and forth as many times as It is necessary and when finished carefully tear off the paper. Lace mended In this way will be much neater and more durable than when darned oy band.

Simple Sachets of Linen A PRETTY, dainty sachet is mad from a triangular shaped piece of linen, edged on both sides by narrow torchon laca. To make, cat a square piece of fine white linen, t by S Inches, and line It with a similar square of wadding, through which is scattered a liberal supply of orris root and one's favorite sachet powder mixed. Draw on the linen some simple conventional floral spray and work the design tn natural color. Put the squares of linen and scented wadding together and fold into a triangular piece. Sew up the seams and gather the lace In a soft ruSe around the two obllsjue sides.