Hammond Times, Volume 6, Number 275, Hammond, Lake County, 10 May 1912 — Page 11

Styles of the Fifties Return to Us In This Season's Modes

shawl or scarf and add to the old fash

ioned suggestion.

Plaitlngs have been introduced, too.

on the spring models, and their advent

la meeting with some success, but trimming of this kind Is more appro

priate and pretty on thin summer frocks

than on those of heavier materials. The

set In aleeve and a return to the nat

ural waist line are also evidences of a

new fashion standard. In one of the illustrations there is a hint of the passing of the straight skirt line, and the tunic of accordion plaited chiffon seen

in this frock, looped over a trailing skirt with knots of ribbon, is a decided

innovation. But to come back to the waist line. French couturieres put this demarcation line where it is most becoming to their customers. For the French women they usually elevate it slightly above the normal. The French woman is short and dumpy, as a rule, and the raised waist line gives her greater

length, but the American woman has

such a graceful figure that she can

safely allow her dressmaker to take

liberties with it

The fringed or frayed out trimming revival is quite charmingly demon

strated on the blouse pictured, which Is of taffeta boasting bretelles of wool

lace, edged with fringed ruffles of silk

At the waist line is a huge blossom, a

species unknown in the land of flora

THE

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E AND BONNET. OLD FASHIONED GOWN OF MOIRE

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BRIDE'S LINEN OUTFIT

A Fair Estimate of the Linen That She Will Need

A BRIDE'S outfit la generally expected to contain all of the linen necessary for the house or apartment unless this be beyond ber means to pro

vide.

So frequently does the perplexing

question present Itself as to just what the household will need to start with

In the way of linen that it may prove helpful hero to give a list for the Unea closet.

Starting with the dining room. It la

well to provide one handsome tablecloth, which will seat a largo number comfortably. This should be three or

four yards In length and of pure white damask and cost anywhere from $2 to

$5 a yard. For this cloth one dozen

large dinner napkins should be bought

to match.

Two other good cloths of shorter

length, say two and a half or three

yards, all white, at not more than $2 a

yard, with napkins; then for ordinary wear three half bleached cloths at tl.&O,

with two dozen napkins and a dozen

tea napkins. In addition to these a si lence cloth of felt will be required. ' Many sundries are needed to com

plete the attractive appearance of the dining room in the way of linen carv

er's cloth, sideboard and carving table covers, table centerpieces, doilies, and so on, and It Is well to remember In selecting the linen that medium heavy will give best wear not only that, but

it Is easiest to hemstitch or embroider.

For the bedrooms a fair allowance Is

two counterpanes, three pairs of pillow, cases, three pairs of sheets, a down comforter, a pair of light summer Nan- i

kets and one heavy blanket for each bed.

The towel supply for bedrooms and

bath should consist of one dozen huckaback and four or six Turkish bath towels, also a dozen little guest towels.

t or the kitchen a generous provision

Includes six linen dish towels, six glass

towels, six pot cloths, six dishcloths, three floor cloths and six cheesecloth

dusters.

New Use For Veils It was a clever woman with a little daughter to dress who, when copying a French model with hemstitching at the tunic borders and In other parts, bethought her of the possibilities of

hemstitched chiffon veils. They come

in lovely colors and are long enough and wide enough for tunic effect-

For Spring Days

"OULCK and white striped suits have been fashionable tor the past few seasons, but the smart confection seen in the cut of this design has been effected in an .entirely different fashion from former materials. The white

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NEW STRIPED SUIT IN AND WHITE.

BLACK

lines are made by machine stitching in white thread done on fine black serge and not woven in the goods. Of course this hand work adds to the expense of a costume, but it Is very individual and new. Black satin Is used In combination with the woolen material.

i? Recipes For Uncooked Candies

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GET out the family album or the old daguerreotypes of your feminine ancestors and study the trimmings on the gowns of these ladies, then take a look about at the new spring styles and you will see among them many reproductions of these adornments on the taffeta and other silk costumes of the seasen. Puffings, quillings, fringed, or, to use the old fashioned term, frayed out; ruffles and cordings are ubiquitous and when well used are charming. In fact.

the styles of the fifties are returning In a modified form. The slim lines of today are retained, but the draped effects of long ago adapted to the present silhouette are much in evidence. One of the great French dressmakers this season almost created a panic by showing among his new models a gown in moire brocade of the quality that is "rich enough to stand alone." One of the illustrations shows this gown. The skirt, as you see, is full, the shoulders drooping, and the long pointed basque

COSTUME SHOWING RIBBON TRIMMING.

is reminiscent of before the war days. Of course this is an extreme fashion that will not be worn by the average woman, but It shows how the vogue wind is blowing. Another old fashion that Is returning

is the wearing of the black lace shawl of the sixties. Every woman who pos

sesses an heirloom in the shape of one

of these shawls is unearthing it these days and donning it as a modish wrap. Quaint bonnets often accompany the

BLOUSE WITH FRINGED RUFFLES

and most unattractive. For you must know that artificial blooms of all varieties are worn this year as boutonnieres on the coat and corsage, and stiff little bunches of kitchen garden posies are the smartest for this purpose. Extremists in the old fashion revival even go to the length of surrounding these small bunches of flowers with a lace paper case, the kind florists used to place around the flowers carried by antebellum belles. The shops have these old fashioned posies put up in little boxes in most attractive gift form. CATHERINE TALBOT.

An Old Fashioned Garden

fTPHE" real old fashioned garden is not the up to date old fashioned border laid out In stately rows like a well planted patchwork quilt, but the real old heterogeneous mass of bloom and . foliage that used to meet the eye In our granny's garden. Whatever ideas you have entertained about stiff borders and formal garden layouts will vanish utterly under the spell this garden casts around you. Instead of the orderly, stiffly designed flower beds one finds great banks of phlox, clumps of peonies, trellises of ' sweet peas and banks of nasturtiums. By this is not meant an ill kept, overgrown weedy affair, not by any means, for this garden must be weed free. Weeds must not get the advantage, but must be rooted out In earnest and burned. Then the garden must not have too much or too little water. A garden on a southern slope is an Ideal site. Then there is plenty of air and plenty

of drainage, both necessary to the

growth of flowers.

Every one who owns a garden gets to know that dirt is not soil. The earth must be composed of Band and clay

and decayed vegetable matter to supply the necessary Ingredients for the

growth of flowers. The Ideal condition of a soil la one which resembles a sponge and In which it will retain the greatest amount of nutritive substances and water without losing its capacity for absorbing air. It is not always easy for the beginner to know how much fertilizer to use. for the ground can be overfed as well as underfed. For the average flower garden stable or barnyard manure is sufficient. In using stable manure two barrowfuls to a square rod is ample, but use somewhat less If barnyard manure is used. So much for the practical side of the garden question; then comes the interesting part, the selection of the .varieties to be used. A few among the many are the four o'clocks. candytufts, bachelor's buttons, delphiniums or larkspurs, dicentra or bleeding hearts, the valerian, foxglove or digitalis, the luplnus, the morning glory, love in a mist, gaillardla, hellanthus or small sunflower, the columbine, the popples, dlanthus, the bell flower and the well known hollyhock standing sentinel over all.

That .Stitch In Time

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YO wonder the stitch in time falls to be taken when sewing appliances are not handy. The woman who must hunt for a needle and thread frequently neglects to use them as she should. There are various contrivances for sewing conveniences, and no woman should be without a well equipped sewing table or box In her room. Chief in beauty, also in cost. Is the mahogany sewing table on colonial lines. The most convenient of these has the two end wings, where stockings and large pieces of mending can be tucked. One with an extra shelf in the top has compartments for spools of different sizes , and sections for buttons as well. A homemade basket table should have a tripod made from three broomBtlcks

painted white or dark green. In the top is fitted a deep, round basket, like a, large fig basket, which Is stained to match the legs. Line the basket with gay silk, put in an extra strip divided

into comparUnenta for pockets, and to

CHARMING HATS OF THE SEASON

JNE of the hats pictured Is named In honor of the famous French beauty and Parisian society leader, Mme. Lantelme, who not long ago met so tragic

a death.

It is of hlack malines with a crown entirely hidden by wistaria blooms In the new dark mustard color known as pamplemousse. A band of snapdragon

the bottom sew a round pincushion. Attach to the sides a needlebook, scissors and a case for thimble, emery and

bodkins. A basket with a lid. though

harder to find, keeps out much dirt

A girl who had to economize space

In her room at a boarding house In

vented a sewing receptaele on the order

of a shoe bag. The case was made of a strip of linen twenty-one Inches long and sixteen Inches high. To this was sewed an end pocket five inches wide and eleven Inches high to hold darning

and larger pieces of mending, while the;

iiuiu Bi'tLt-o was uiviucu into various small pockets for spools of thread, buttons, sewing utensils, tape, hooks and eyes and odds and ends. The case was bound in white mercerized braid and supplied with rings at top and bottom to fasten to hooks In the oloset door. The top was turned over in a flap to keep the contents of the pockets clean. Each compartment was labeled for its special use in white outlined, letters.

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pink velvet ribbon Is drawn around the crown and tied in a bow at the side. The second creation is of black hemp, with a facing of white fern leaves, which, in turn, are covered with a black and white figured net.

Concrete the New Color "QONCRETE" color is the latest fashion In wall decorations, according to the clever woman who has Just returned from abroad. Her new little house, therefore, has been covered from top to bottom with a rough paper which is painted exactly in a concrete shade.. The woodwork has been ebonized, and the drawing room portieres and other curtains are of black taffeta, falling stiff and straight.. Her furniture Is Spanish, old carved walnut, black with age, and she has some wonderful old brasses to heighten the somewhat somber effect. In the bedroom are English chintz curtains, with gay colored tropical birds and flowers on a black background. The black

curtaining of the guest room consists of old camel's hair shawls, with black centers and ground color. The effec- I tiveness of these soft hangings is I really far greater than can be expressed in words. In houses where the women have unlimited means the fashionable black hanging is not a plain taffeta, but instead a Chinese satin or a Japanese silk gorgeously embroidered in colors or gold crests and harmonizing with the rich toned mahogany furniture as in colonial times, when ships brought eastern embroideries to London and American ports. For such drawing rooms as boast only of Italian carved furniture embroidered curtains with black grounds have been picked up, but not for a song, in Genoa, Florence, Turin and Rome, remnants of the glory of the old palaces. For pictures on these dignified walls it is obvious that gentle spring landscapes or the light art of the French period must be discarded. Indeed, pictures are dispensed with altogether as being too modern unless one old master can be well placed, and family por

traits are being unearthed or copied or invented in the styles of the earlier portrait painters to match the antique furniture. A Combination Salad. Take a bunch of celery, half a pound of stoned dates and half a pound of almost any kind of nuts except almonds. Chop these ingredients into small pieces, and when they have been well mixed add the pulp of three grapefruit. Arrange on crisp lettuce leaves and dress with mayonnaise.

The Pendent Purse A WOMAN will keep her money anywhere, from the Inside of her stocking to the lining of her hat. The latest fancy, however. Is to carry her purse around her neck in the form of a lavalliere. Tiny purses of gold net, with a studded border, of brilliants and fastening with a twisted clasp on top, are worn on a thin gold chain like a pendant.

rjJHE following candy recipes are al-

as they are uncooked, and a failure is almost impossible; Fondant. Do not beat the whites of the eggs. Drip the whites of two eggs Into a small granite pan. Stir into this confectioner's sugar gradually, until thick enough to. work like cream fondant. "The amouht"of' sugar 'useif will vary according to the size of the eggs. Usually two pounds are sufficient. In stirring the candy It Is well to use a wooden spoon. Add a few drops of flavoring, being careful to mix it in

well. Lay the ball of cream on a granite slab or a smooth board over which you have sprinkled some of the sugar. Work It for a few minutes. Divide the cream into three or four rolls. If the cream should be too thick to work easily, a few drops of milk or water will make it soft enough to mold. With this cream as a foundation many fancy candles may be made. Below are a few suggestions which have all been tried. If one wants to make several kinds of candy It will be necessary to use a larger amount of fondant than given above. Fruit coloring in trange and strawberry can be used to make candies. Half a pound of dates stuffed with the cream in three colors will make quite a large plate. If seeded dates are used it will save work. Chop a few dates and figs together and work into the cream. Roll out and cut In half Inch pieces. Roll cream flat as you would pte crust. Cut In square pieces and fold in each piece a white grape or a maraschino cherry. This sweet Is delicious. Roll cream into little balls and press English malnuts, pecans or almonds into the same, a nut on each side.

Dip molded cream balls into hot melted and sweetened chocolate. An Orange wood stick is very good to dip the cream with. Cocoanut' can be used. Care should be taken - to work It in well, and in cutting be careful to cut quickly, as the candy will not look neat otherwise. ,; Soak. a. few radius .Ja warraweter and cover with cream. ? . , . Soak prunes overnight in cold water, then remove the stones. Crack these and run the kernels through the meat chopper, adding the other chopped

meats and chopped dates. Fill the cavities of the prunes with this mixture, close and dtp in the fondant. In making wafers care must be taken when flavoring with cinnamon, as it takes only a very small amount Maple, cinnamon, allspice, orange, lemon, vanilla, strawberry and peppermint essence must all be used sparingly or they will be too strong. After the cream has been rolled out with a rolling pin use a small can lid to cut the wafers.

Breeze Baskets

fPHE bedroom that is redolent of the old fashioned scent of lavender suggests refreshment and peace. It is not enough to line the. wardrobe shelves with lavender sachets, though to do so is a step In the' right direction,--Very pretty are the hanging -breese" baskets which every breath of air from the outside encourages to send forth a delicious scent. The baskets are hung upon ribbon and slung upon the looking glass or upon the handle of an escritoire, out of sight maybe, but not out of mind.

SMART SUMMER BELONGINGS OF LACE AND NET

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COLLAR AND CUFF SET QF VALENCIENNES LACE. , . .... rpiIE simple summer frock of dimity or linen Is made distinctive and out of the ordinary by handmade belongings. Dainty collar and cuff sets, for Instance, such as are pictured, add much to the beauty of a frock. This new set Is made of all over Valenciennes lace finished with plaitings of point' d' esprit.