Hammond Times, Volume 6, Number 215, Hammond, Lake County, 1 March 1912 — Page 10

Catlored Costumes Less Somber In Color Ons Spring

Very Lightweight Covert Cloth Is Indorsed by Parisian Tailors A Great Season For White Fabrics

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COSTUMES IMMENSELY SMART. 5?:? " A & Tft. VUff

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WHITE

SERGE

OPRIXG style, ar Eotnr to ada another trial to th. already

long list of sartorial trouble

of the woman burdened with

too solid flesh, for the new spring tailored suits are ol light colored cloth. But now that hips have been sternly repressed and avoirdupois has in many cases yielded to heroic fasting and exercise an era of light toned tailored

costumes may not be the distressing thins it would have been, but there are still plenty of women who will do well

to cling to dark shades. Indeed, all in

dications point ta a season ot costumes less somber in hue than those of last year. Light shades of fawn and sand and brown and gray and charming suitings in all the light tones are now to be seen in the shops. There are many attractive possibilities among the light toned fabrics, and all the whipcord varieties of cloth and the bedford cords are much approved of fashion this season. In soft two toned fawns and light grays these materials make up delightfully into coat and skirt suits for early spring wear. There

are. too, charming loose woven diagonals and basket weaves In these mixtures, and of serges fine and soft there is no end. i A very . lightweight covert cloth Is finding acceptance , In Paris, and It : is both practical and good looking. Years ago when this cloth was popular many women objected to it on account of Its heavy weight. -This objection lias been overcome by the present covert cloths, which are light; in weight and color.

TOUCH OF COLOR BRIGHTEN3 THIS SPRING SUIT.

though firm and strong in weave. For long coats used. for motoring and traveling in warm weather there is a reversible woolen material the exact name of which 'seems to be something of a mystery and that is likely to prove a great favorite ; On the right side It resembles the lighter and looser kinds

of ratine and Is usually to be found In a deep cream color, with emootb reverse surface of a warmer tone, such as green, rose, violet and soft old blue. And speaking of ratine, which answers to the name of eponge and terry cloth as well as to tho better known title, there is again a revival ot this

stuff for trimmings on tailored coats. Too much popularity before the season is well under way is apt to make collar and cuffs of this material not desirable for the woman who likes exrintr

trimmings. Leather trimming are the

swagger things this year, and when the leather Is soft and pliable it Is treated to an embroidered design.

Big rovers or collars figure coon

many of the best looking models to

spring tailor made suits, some original

ity in me collar in many Instances con

stituting tne costume's only claim to

aisuncuon. But. on the other

one often finds a suit of this type which

is couariess. the model usually cross

ing in iront to rasten down the left side, giving more or less of the Russian

meet.

It is to be a great white season: but.

strangely enough, all the white fabrics

have a tinge of ecru or cream in their

coloring, and In sheer materials thev

tone toward a yellowish tint For the tailored suit cream serge is very smart

wun a toucn or black in the coat trim

mmgs. out wmte corduroy Is the

swagger thing.

The newest short coats show the cut-

away effect, some models having only a slight departure from the more usual

straight closing, but others are cut away abruptly In front. Short cutaway coat lines are not for every figure, however fashionable they mav bftonm

Where the hips are small enough they are very becoming, but on a dumpy, stout woman the silhouette Is grotesque.

uoat eieeves in the more severely

tailored modes are, of course. long, but

more dressy models show the three-

quarter sleeve, which is very dressy

and pretty for warm weather.

c Kir is, aeapue iM rumors of more fullness, are tight and slim In outline.

but they are not as severely plain as have been the winter models. Straps, buttons and trimmed panels give vari

ety to many of the smartest spring

models. As for lensrth. thev are not as

I short that from a distance a woman

might reasonably be mistaken for her

sixteen-year-old granddaughter, but

they do clear the ground about two

inches, or three in some cases. Trot

ting skirts are naturally shorter than

the skirt designed for occasions when a i

luiur maun uii is in order.

A stunning white serge suit Is pictured among the cuts. It will figure prominently in the Easter parade. It has a slashed tunic and a short, straight coat trimmed with black velvet closely eoutached with white. Another smart Easter suit Is illustrated of a new material consisting of a mohair In worsted weave which is much fancied by Paris tailors. The color is a rich violet, the beauty of tone being enhanced by trimmings of silver braid and facings of gray bengaline. Hat and parasol are In shades of violet. A touch of color brightens many ot the smartest spring suits and proves a dominant note in the pretty little suit of pale gray worsted that is Illustrated.

This note Is accomplished by the aid of

the chiffon cape collar, which is in

vivid shade of cerise. . Black velvet trimmings on the dove gray material

somewhat soften the effect of this ce

rise color contrast, but the effect is

striking and undeniably attractive. The skirt has a peculiar cut. the front

portion opening over a petticoat of gray satin, and the same gray satin appears on the revers of the coat. The hat is cerise straw trimmed with white and black. CATHERINE TALBOT.

VERY STYLISH

SUMMER FROCK

TnE hat worn with this pretty lin

gerie crock is a panama mod si faced with black and trimmed h.h

white ribbon. To match

i

I green and

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NEW i RETICULE WITH t MATCH.

HAT TO

there Is a smart reticule made of very

wide Dresden ribbon in shades of plum

and green, with a frilling and loops of

green ribbon in narrow width,

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Slbat to Serve at Children's parties

TERHAPS the success of a children's party depends more on the refreshments than on the entertainment, for if the little ones appear irritable or out of sorts the next day their mothers invariably puts it down to something provided by the hostess having disagreed with them. The dishes should be of the simplest description, and, although nourishment should be aimed at, it must be served In the most attractive form. If the entertainment is for very young folks and begins with tea let plentiful plates of thin bread and butter, with a dusting of pink sugar, be served. And when cakes take a place in the menu they should be mostly of the sponge variety.

not a dry sponge, but cakes made with

butter.

The decorations may be dainty and pretty, but startling colors may be well avoided. The prettiest devices can be

designed with crystallized rose leaves snd angelica or pistachio nuts, and slices of crystallized fruit will help to

, make the cake appetising without de

tracting frcm its whoiesomeness. Cochineal may be employed for giving a

pink shade to icing, but greens and

yellows, however Innocent the source of coloring may be, give rise to sus

picion where children are concerned.

A good sponge mixture to be baked

in a shallow tin is: Three ounces 'of butter, eight and a half ounces of

sugar, eight ounces of flour, four egga, one tablespoonful of sour milk or wa

ter, one teaspoonful of orange flower water, a pinch of baking powder. All

the icgredlents should be warm, and

the butter must be beaten till white.

, then beaten again with the sugar,

Whisp the eggs until very light, and

then beat them for twenty minutes with the butter. Add the water, flour, baking powder by degrees and take in a hot oven for twenty minutes. This quantity will make about two dozen mall cakes to be Iced and decorated. The trimmings can be used for trifles. Various candied fruits cut in small pieces may be mixed with the cake and a good boiled custard poured over. Decorate with more pieces of candied fruit. One or two of the whites of the eggs may be left out when making the custard and whipped up stiffly with or without cream. They should be laid

over the custard and a little pink sugar sifted over all. Ice cream, in whatever form It la ;rved, will always please the childish appetite, but let the flavoring be vanilla or fruit juices or the fruit itself when in season. Never flavor with the essence of almond or lemon. Fresh fruit when served should be prepared before being placed on the table. The oranges should be peeled, with pith removed, and the fruit divided into sections. The pips can be taken out with the point of a knife. Pears and apples if peeled and cut up lose their color, but this objection can be overcome by making, them up into fruit salads. Grapes should always ' be

t

skinned and seeds carefully removed.

Very little In the way of meat In

needed, and such meat dishes as are

served should take the form of meat molds that Is. chicken, veal or even beef pounded and molded with meat jelly or a good white sauce stiffened with a small quantity of allspice. Small

molds may be made In various pretty shapes. The little ones will enjoy the novelty of what will appear to them a very grownup supper, and yet one which will be entirely suited to their small requirements and which can not possibly give them any untoward consequences.

Smart Glove N evemees ?

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THE SHAMPOO QUESTION

mHE shampoo question Is to be treated from many standpoints. Some skilled hair doctors say it should be done once in six weeks; others advocate half that time as the limit to go unshampooed. Of course every one knows that oily hair must be washed

oftener than dry hair. The way to dress It at night has also been disputed. Loosely braid it." cries one adviser. "Tightly braid It," declares another. "If it Is In loose strands one hair will brush against and bruise another." There is one treatment that few heads enjoy as much as they should

namely, an airing. Once a day, for an hour if possible, it should hang and float and stray and do all the pretty

poetic things a breeze can help It to do

Twice a week the following Is good for the scalp: Comb and part the hair from the middle of the forehead (where the bad little girl s curl came) to the

middle of the nape of the neck. Dl

vide each side into three strands, then

roll each strand into a tight coll, se cured with a hairpin. This will ex

pose the scalp, or a great part of It. to the air, always a remedial agent when

the temperature permit. Zero weather is not the best time, of course, to sit

with one's hair so colled by an open window.

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ARTISTIC TABLE COVER

rjPHE woman who Is interested in needlework as employment for . the long winter evenings will enjoy mak

ing a table cover or scarf of monk s

cloth appliqued with linen figures.

Cut the cloth the size you desire of a very dark green shade and baste in a

two inch hem all around for a square

cover and at each end on a scarf then cut out fancy figures from natural colored linen, using either flowers simple in design, leaves like the clover and oak. hearts, circles or small triangles. Baste these on the cloth just above the hem and sew them fast by buttonholing around with rope floss in a burnt orange shade. One clever girl made a table scarf, cushion cover and

window curtains to correspond for her

room at college or monk s cloth appliqued with figures representing books, dumbbells, Indian clubs and various things associated with college life. i One advantage of the work is that it is quickly done and when finished is very attractive.

Not tbeiRfgbt Kfnd YOUNG bachelor, who was beset by a sewing machine agent, told the latter that his machine would not answer his purpose. "Why," said the agent with voluble praise, "it is the best on the market in every respect." "That may be," replied the supposed customer, "but the sewing machine I am looking for must have flaxen hair and blue eyes."

MAKING JABOTS AT ANY of those who admire the fancy neckwear and dainty jabots with frills and lace to be seen In the shops may not know that some of those designs can be copied quite easily. To make one of white and pale pink linen take a triangular piece of pink linen and apply to the white by means of a row of buttonhole stitching. Groups of coin spots are then worked on the linen, and a narrow lace edging Is sewed around the linen, which is then laid In narrow plaits and stitched In place.' ' An oblong piece of fine white cotton voile with a pointed end has three tiny thread tucks on the point run by hand. Wide lace Is then sewed fast to the edge, with the corners mitered where the point turns. This is then laid in a triple box plait, the straight edge turned over and sewed down and a row of small black satin buttons sewed down the center. From the topmost button two little inverted revers of black satin extend halfway to the point -This makes a novel looking Jabot. The Jabot of embroidery, net and Irish lace Is very elaborate, but with little trouble It can be made at home.

Cbe latest In Rand Bags

HOUSEHOLD HINTS. Brass polished only with rottenstone and oil will have a deep, rich, yellow tone, while the acid polishes leave It whiter and more brilliant. Rub fiatirons over a layer of salt occasionally while using them on starched goods. It removes any starch that may stick to the iron.

Co Bone F)fgb Collars A CONVENIENT way to bone high collars on wash blouses is to sew narrow linen tape on the collar In as many strips as you wish bones. Stitch the bottom of the tape across and from the top slip in the featherbone, then fold over the end of the tape and sew it fast by hand. When the blouse Is to be laundered unfasten the hand sewing, slip the bones out and lay them aside until the blouse is ironed ready to wear again. It is then very little trouble to replace them.

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I WHITE BLOUSES WILL BE POPULAR

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THE BRACELET GLOVE

T?VERY woman when she is modishly gowned wears one bracelets, which for the past few seasons have been at

or more bangle

the top notch of

fashion. This Epring milady will wear the new bracelet glove, several varieties of which are shown in the illustration. On the new silk gloves this bracelet idea Is daintily carried eut by embroidered bands of tiny colored blossoms.

SPHERE Is to be a revival In white blouses for the spring, according to fashion ' reports from Paris, The smartly dressed woman in tailored costume is to have a blouse of snowy lawn, with long sleeves ruffled at the wrists and high collar. In place of the ninon design, to tone with the costume of the present season. After having stoutly Insisted on blouses of the latter type for some seasons back Parisians have already gone

over to white and cream blouses en

tirely, the models being In line net, daintily embroidered and trimmed with lace and fine tuck9 or fine lawn with similar trimmings. Blouses In white lawns and nets are being worn In Paris even with the heaviest of velvet or tweed costumes, and there are many smart designs in white satin, white mousseline de soie or white crape. Two Parisian Ideas ot the white blouse for tailor mades were seen recently. In one design of fine lawn, inset with insertion and trimmed with tucks and embroidery, there was a nar

row frill of lace down each side of the box plait in front, the sleeves coming nearly to the wrists. The other, in mousseline de soie, had a deep hemstitched revers on one side and lace on the other, and In both cases the collars were high. Nearly all the blouses In Paris have high collars, and very often plaited frills of the materials fall over the hands from the long sleeves. Sometimes the high collars have a frill of lace along the top. but this fashion Is only becoming to a few. The satin blouses are mostly tailored, though they have none of the severity once associated with the word tailor made. They have long sleeves and tucked shoulders and yokes, some being softened In one way or another by dainty little frills of net or lace. Some of the lawn blouses have lace and hand embroidery introduced in the frills and collars, but many are severely simple, though fine, and here again one finds the models with adjustable cellars, allowing for the use of separate stocks and frills.

A CONVENIENT LIMOUSINE NOVELTY. HPHIS bag may be carried in the hand when desired, but it Is really intended for use In the limousine, where It hangs fer milady's convenience. The large center pocket will hold various belongings, and the side pockets are for vanity trinkets and handkerchiefs.