Hammond Times, Volume 6, Number 40, Hammond, Lake County, 4 August 1911 — Page 9
Friday, 'August 4, 1911. THE TRIES.
SKIRT TRIMMINGS REPEAT COAT FEATURES
Only when the coat is built in severely plain mannish style is the skirt f the tailored suit entirely without ornamentation. Often the skirts are quite elaborately trimmed and the trimmings usually repeat some feature of the coat. For example, the coat of the dark blue serge suit pictured, has a section et on at sides and back to suggest a shortened waistline, and the effect in repeated on the skirt by means of a shaped flounce and braid strappings.
FADS AND FASHIONS
New York, Aug". 4. Some fashion authorities have expressed the opinion that the coming autumn will bring many important changes of fashions. They say that the prosperity of the manufacturers and dealers in dress goods demands a decided change in the fashionable silhouette. It is claimed
that only by such a radical change can the business be made profitable again. The depression in the business of the manufacturers and dealers was due not only to the fact that the fashionable dresses required an unusally small amount of material, but also to the fact ; that owing to the retention
of the slender silhouette for a number of seasons women were enabled to j wear their old frocks for several sea- ; tons without being actually out of ' style., , N The same authorities admit that a; auddea radical change of the silhouette' Is not probable, as the women seem to '
like the present style with Its straight;
and narrow lines. The designers have been experimenting lately with introducing certain modifications of the prevailing style which will eventually lead to a change of the silhouette. Here and there one has seen a Bklrt with a trifle more amplitude than the majority, a noticeably smart frock with the natural waistline defined. Flounces and pleatings have crept into use, though so flat and limp are they that they do not seem aggressive. The Marie Antoinette fichu has been used upon the narrow, scant, higbwaisted models of 1911. but perhaps it may be an entering wedge for the long waist and skirt amplitude of its own period. The revival of taffeta and the trimmings of the early Victorian period, ruchings, shirred cords, puffing, etc., may be another opening wedge, though now all this Is set In tune with the silhouette of last spring. The fashion struggle of the autumn will undoubtedly rage most hotly around the sleeves and skirts, though coat lengths are a burning topic at present. The general opinion seems to be that the kimono sleeve must go. To be sure, that battle cry was raised last summer and everybody knows how far the kimono sleeves went, but the law of probabilities seems to be in favor of carrying out the decree this time. It is safe to predict that the autumn
will bring about a change in the sleeves, but how radical that change will be there is no telling. Just what the popular sleeve will be remains to be seen, but it would not be advisable to have a new frock, intended for autum nuse, made on the komono lines which dominate summer costumes. It is also true that the very high waist line, though seen everywhere, is undoubtedly losing prestige, and it seems likely that the modish line will be sound, that Is, at the natural waist line, even if it does not. as some rumors have it, elongate itself
still further. Summer cloaks and wraps of all kinds are more than usually good this year, and they run the gamut from the severest and most conventional of tailored dust coats to the most fantastic of little mantles and short coats. The reversible coat, which was an unusual
i thing at the beginning of the season, is j often seen now both in satin and in
wool and has its practical value. The woolen models are invariably of two-
faced cloth, such materials being supplied In great variety and beauty by the foreign manufacturers. The reversible coat of satin is made both In the ' double faced satin and in satin of one
color lined with satin of contrasting color, the latter being, of course, considerably the warmer of the two and therefore less satisfactory for hot weather purposes. Velvet appears upon many of the coats in s satin, marquisette, chiffon, etc.,-but is as . a rule1 used sparingly
merely to give effective relief. The white double faced satin with soft collar on the under side makes up Into delightful coats, the big collars and cuffs showing the colored sld and touches f black velvet or heavy lace serving as additional trimming. Double faced fine broadcloth Is lovely, too, la white and color. In place of black satin, which used to be extremely fashionable for long coats, French makers now often use various shades of night blue, "taupe, bronze green, raisin, etc. Semt-transparent long coats of colored marquisette or chiffon embroidered In self-color or bordered by selfcolor satin or velvet are good looking when worn over white or harmonizing colors, and one of the novelties of the season is the lingerie long coat, whose fine foundation Is usually almost hidden
by Inset laces and embroidery. ' Some of the summer wraps touch the floor, while others are diminutive affairs that are merely thrown over the shoulders. Usually the material is transparent, or, if not transparent, so soft, thin and limp that it gives the suggestion of transparency. Tawny brown Is a favorite color for handsome wraps for wear over smart afternoon frocks. Last summer 'brown was as dead as a last year's fashion magazine. Brown linens and foulards could be picked up for a song. Brown in a garment costing over three figures was unheard of. But now all the brown shades are back in high favor and the choice ranges from buff down through mustard, tobacco and wood browns to a rich, deep seal. What in the springtime promised to be a fad has developed into a fashion. This is the taffeta coat which Is worn with plain and striped skirts. It Is usually of a vivid color, either solid or iridescent. The skirt Is usufftiy, of white serge or lingerie, pongee or rajah. Usually the plain white is chosen, but often there is a stripe in It. The coats are in all the fruit reds, in the purple of the plums, in leaf greens and tobacco brown. It Is an attractive Idea for the woman who has a separate white skirt and does not wish to get a short coat that can be worn only as a part of a suit. The tunics are becoming longer as the season advances, and in some cases very nearly reach the hem of the underskirt Beneath these tunics at times a kind of quaint cuirass of old time lace may be descried, with the upper portion of the corsage and enwrapping hip piece of similar lace. Sleeves to the elbow are finished with a trio
of silken muslin bias folds of three shades or different colors matching those of the dress, or they are turned back with a revers of lace and edged with a narrow line of velvetThere is a decided preference for evening gowns of gray, the shades being, of course, those that are at their best under artificial light. Stone gray is not favored, though combined with cerise In various ways and embroidered in silver it has found some admirers. The wide Japanese sash Is piquant and chaming finish for dainty summer frocks. It is fastened high in .the back, has enormous loops or bows . and
Js usually of some contrasting or deeper colored silk or satin than the gown Itaelf, , . Many of the new parasols are in bordered effects pongee suit, with bands of Persian- or Dresden satins or per haps a border of plain colored taffeta. Girls are showln ga gain a fancy for low-neck dresses completed with second empire collars of muslin lace or embroidery. " FLORENCE FAIRBANKS.
-THE ART OP THE VEIL
There la Indeed mm art la (he wearing- of the veil. It mhonld be treated very tenderly. A special eeeeptarle should keep the perinhabla webs In Immaculate condition. The! French veil ease resembles n lara;e thin book of some special precious sort, with Its delicate satin covers and ribbon string ties. The veils are placed between the padded lenves and covered with thin silk. The veil and the art of Its wearer marks nil of this season's excursions. The headpiece for the muffling worn completely over the hat must be flatly trimmed nnd have a down-drop-pins; brim for the veils to show off to an advantage, wherens the Ionic scarfs, which wrnp so gracefully about the tbroamay acenmpnny a sidelined or mushroom hat with equal art. One of the latest French veils shows a scatterlnK of bees over some of the squares of Isee webblns;. Pretty veil plus nre in the form of lonsr-stemnied lilies, fashioned entirely In s;reen nnd white enamel. For ordinary plcnlclns; nnd boating; purposes, a plain chiffon veil In brown may be advised, for this color and mesh are about the only thins which resist tan. The violet and tissue veils blue sometimes showing; shading's thnt resemble fnded streaks nre one of the late Ideas, nnd there are some silvery blue follies that look for all the world like pieces of the summer sky.
Where TJia Spotlight Mnldos
Elsie Leslie la to be George Arllss leading lady In "DisraeJJ." The new play by Augustus 'Thomas bears, the name "The Devil tPay." Sir Herbert Beerbohm Tree has - a play by Zangwlll called "The God of War." Marie Tempest Is making a big success . In London In a revival of "The Marriage of Kitty." Fifty midgets are to be brought from Europe for A. H. Wood's production of "Little Nemo." Mme. Tetrazzinl will fill an operatic engagement in this country and then will make a concert tour. William Hawtrey's farce, "Dear Old Billy," Is by a writer whose name is Risque, v But the farce isn't. Henry E. Dlxey has Just been engaged for the leading role in "Gypsy Love," in which Marguerite Sylva will star. Helen Ware Is to begin her season In her new play .entitled "The Prince," in Boston early in September.
George V. Hobart Intends to extend his sketch "Everywife" into a play, which Is to be called "Rhyme and Reason." Robert E. Graham will sing the role of St. Joseph Porter in "Pinafore" in place of Henry E. Dixey. Mr. Graham sang the role years ago. "What tb Doctor Ordered," the comedy by A. E. Thomas which is to follow "Seven Days" at the Astor theater, in New York, will then go to Boston. Kitty Gordon Is to go starring next season in "The Enchantress," a new
! musical piece by Victor Herbert, Harry
B. Smith and Mme. Fred de Gresac. Lucy Weston is booked to play the title role of "The Quaker Girl" when Henry B. Harris makes the American production of the musical play In October.
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The composer of "The Girl of - the Golden West" dedicated his work - to Queen Mother Alexandra, who sent a letter of thanks and a Jeweled present to Pucclnt. .-;'. Three ticket speculators have been sent to Jail In New York for violating the law. Hitherto they have been fined only. It is expected that Jail sentences will break up the violations of the law. Lily Elsie will come to this country next winter In 'The Count of Luxembourg." This Is the new opera by Franz Lehar, in which Miss Elsie and Bertram Wallls waltx up a circular staircase of twelve steps. j The excessive heat caused the cancellation of the Sothern and Marlowe engagement In New York. Mr. Sothern will sail for England for his summer holiday, and Miss Marlowe will go to her home in the Catskills.
In FEAR OF DYNAMITE. j" The people of Rockport are walking lightly and carefully and looking with suspicion on every loose article In the streets. Several boys broke into the warehouse of Lieb & Artman and stole, a number of dynamite caps. A small boy found one of the caps and exploded it, losing his arm. Since then dynamite caps have been found In several public places and Rockport people are literally In fea'r of their lives. jj
Arkansas politicians are awaiting with much interest, not unmixed wi$i impatience, the definite announcement of Governor Donaghey as to whether he will be a candidate tor a third terhi as governor or make the race for United States senator against Jeff Davis, whose successor is to be chosen by the next legislature.
Articles of Incorporation. The Muncie Credit Company, Kentucky; capital stock, $10,000; certified Indiana for; full amount, with offices at Muncie; to do a general mercantile business; Simon Goodman.- president. The Taney Pneumatic Service Company of Indianapolis, filed notice of preliminary, steps to dissolve. The International Remedy Company, of Nappanee, filed notice of action to move headquarters to South Bend. The Star Tankage and Fertilizer Works, of Vincennes, filed notice of dissolution. The Clinton Electric Light and Power Company, of Clinton, filed notice of increase of capital stock from $10,000 to $40,000. - ...
aJKB TOW READING THK TXMKJM
Dr. Lsedy 32 and 33 Rimbach Building, Over Lion Store.
Hammond.
t Specialist in Chronic Diseases. Treats all Chronic, I Nervous, Blood, Skin, Heart, Stomach, Liver, Kidney and Bladder Troubles; Dyspepsia, Catarrh, and Chronic Lung Troubles; Blood Poison, Skin Diseases, Variocele, ; Stricture, Hydrocele, Rupture, Piles and Fistula, prompt-;
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LADIES, I treat and cure all diseases peculiar to your '; sex without the knife. ; ' CONSULTATION, EXAMINATION AND ADVICE FREE "'"Hours 9 to 12 a. m.; 2 to 5 and 7 to 8 p. m.' j
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