Hammond Times, Volume 6, Number 34, Hammond, Lake County, 28 July 1911 — Page 9

THE TIMES.

TIMES FASHION DEPARTMENT

DAILY FASHION HINT.

(mm

4430

Lady's One-Piece Kimono Nightgown. Snob, a night gown as the one we illustrate is simplicity itself to make. Being eaxi)ies at the shoulders, the tuck can b run in very quickly, and then there re only the hem and the side seams. Long cloth, cambric, lawn and the light weight muslins may be used for this (own. The pattern. 4.430. is cut in sizes 32 to 44 inches bust measure. Medium size requires 4 yards of 3t inch material. The above pattern can be obtained by sending 10 cents to the office of this paper.

5079

Lady's Kimono.

The plain kimono is the most useful of

all nefrryee gowns. it tajtes little material and can be made of lawn, calico.

aateen, printed crepe, outing flannel and similar fabrics. The model illustrated herewith has the new Raglftn sleeve and is quite scant and straicfat in outline.

The pattern. 5.079. ia cat in sises 32 to

44 inches bust meastvre. Medium size

reeuires 6"W yards of 3ft inh material.

The above pattern can be obtained by sending 10 cents to the office of thia

paper.

FADS, AND FASHIONS

Kew York, July 28. The exigencies of fashion during the last few seasons have completely revolutionized the style of women's clothes. The modish woman of today wears fewer undercolthes than the woman of a year or two ago, and those she does wear are less agressively self-assertive, finer, daintier and alas more expensive. The - combination In one form or another la the favorite undergarment, and the woman who has worn It finds It hard to go back to separate corset coven and drawers- or underskirts, with their multiplicity of waistbands always shrinking out of place In the laundering and their troublesome fast

enlngs. Not that corset covers, separate drawers and separate underskirts are not worn. They are, and many women favor them, insisting that the women who need to consider laundering economics will find the separate garments batter, since often one needs changing when another does not. But the fact remains that the combination is In high favor, and that it does away with awkward fulness at the waistline and Is far more trim and neat than are the separate pieces as a rule. Along with the combination skirt and corset covers, chemises bave coma slipping back Into favor, but they aro

modified chemises, making concession

to the law against obtrusive fulness of undergarments. They are not tight

fitting, but they are shaped somewhat to the curves of the body and do not

fall from the top in full rolds as they

once did. The material la so soft and sheer that what little fulness there 13

to be disposed of about the waist Is

not noticeable under a frock.

The combination corset covers and

skirts, or corset covers and drawers, if made with a waistband at all, are so cut that there Is but little fulness to shirr into this waistband, and the

princess models In which the waistband is eliminated entirely are very popular. These, like the chemises, do

not fit closely but follow the curves of the figure easily.

In place of the circular drawers,

which, even In ; the softest lingerie stuffs, have a certain fulness at the bottom which may be perceived

through one of the extremely narrow

and soft frock skirts, French, women

have taken . up drawers of narrower

and stralghter shape, fastening In like

knickers at the knee or left open but quite narrow. In many cases think silk tights are worn by fashionable

women. To avoid every suggestion of fulness the trimming upon undergar

ments has been reduced to a minimum.

Frills and flounces have been altogether abandoned and lace Insertions

or other flat trimming alone Is used.

Double skirts have been revived and

the regime of the hobble skirt and

similar atrocities seems to be on the decline. Perhaps we owe the double

skirt to the bordered fabrics that have

been Introduced during the early part of the season. At any rate, they can

be used advantageously, their colored

edges forming parallel rows of decora

tion at the knees and ankles.

Many double skirts are slashed up at the left side, showing the underskirts

that should be of contrasting color.

Some underskirts are pleated, while

the oversklrt is palln, slashed and edg

ed with fringe, insertion or beadwork.

Double skirts are appearing on the

cloth suits of light-weight materials, such . as checks, striped serges and challls. There Is not much fulness at the hips, a comfortable width at the

bottom, and altogether a- sensible rebound from the extreme narrow style. of the spring. The straight line of the silhouette, however, is preserved, as

well as the flatness of the back, usual

ly emphasized by a loose panel or by

a fiat sash.

The new jabots and side frills are

so large that they almost cover the

front of the waist. The new side frills are so large that they almost cover the front of the waist. The new side

frill extends far out over the shoulder,

graduating to about two inches at ths

bottom, and extends from the neck to the waistline. One very . wide jabot arranged In butterfly effect extends almost from shoulder to shoulder. It

Is of hand-made tucked net, with trim

mings of real Mechlin laces, with a tiny bow of narrow velvet at the throat and a fold of velvet at the top

edge of the stock. Another is a triple

tab jabot ' attached to a stock. The material uced Is fine net with a small

embroidered ring dot, and the tabs are

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edged with Valenciennes lace and are of different length. The stock Is finished at the top with a fold of black satin, a tiny bow of the net being

placed at the throat.

One of the new side frills Is made of

wide mallne lace attached to an inser

tion of hand-embroidered net. A narrow frill of plain net finishes the other

edge. This frill Is attached to a high

stock of embroidered net edged with black velvet. Tiny black velvet buttons adorn the central piece of insertion.

One unusual design In a side frill, in

stead of being attached to a straight piece of Insertion, has the double-

pleated frill joined to a triangular piece of pleated handkerchief linen. The frill is attached to the stock collar by means of narrow Valenciennes Insertion two Inches long. When won the upper point of the frill is pinned al

the left shoulder, while the lower

corner Is fastened over at the right

side, the entire frill curving from the

upper right to the loivr left and sug

gesting the fichu.

There Is apt particularly much to say

about the new shapes of hats dlsplayei

by Paris modistes. A new sailor shape

with rounded crown on top and board brim has lately made Its appearance, trimmed solely with a five-Inch bias

band of velvet, neatly affixed on the left side by a bow and turn-under of

velvet. These hats, generally white

with some vivid colored trimming, have a band of straw to match, the garni

ture enframing the brim about a

couple of Inches In breadth, and will make pretty morning and seaside hats,

shady and smart or chic and serviceable at the same time.

For very hot weather, Just as we

have experienced here during the past

few weeks, fashionable women return to pongee coat. This year these are made with the same round buttons, a large round or square collar and revers either of the pongee Itself or else of silk of some contrasting color. Woolen flowers on the sheerest frocks have come into unusual importance. They are circular disks of crocheted work, gathered Into a center and In "many sizes. The smallest ones are one inch In diameter and are used with embroidered stems on the edges of sashes. Large ones form patches of color on the bodice or girdle. Fringe Is the favorite trimming for chic frocks of changeable silk. It also finishes the majority of separate sashes. Boleros are oriental In style. The Greek, Byantine. Egyptian and Persian

embroideries are used to simulate the

bolero line on many dresses. Wide elastic belts, woven In all colors to match the toilet, are all the rage in Paris. FLORENCE FAIRBANKS.

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The Friars are planning to go on i

another frolic for funds next spring.

Vlllanova College has conferred the degree' of doctor of music on Victor Herbert. Lee Arthur is making important changes In "The Fox," preparatory 4o Its New, York premiere In September. Lllllam Russell Is to be offered "Cis Cis," Frederick Llncke's new operetta, for her fourth consecutive season next winter. Lulsa Tetrazzini will sing at the Metropolitan opera house next season and Giuseppe SUuranl will be one of the conductors. Everett Butterfield is considering an offer from Martin Beck for a season of vaudeville, which Is to begin the latter part of September. Mrs. Elizabeth Chester, wife of Geo. Randolph Chester, author of "Get Rich

Quick Wallingford," has brought suit

for divorce. J A farce written by Abe Ruef, the i convicted San Francisco boodle-politician, was a feature of the Fourth of July vaudeville show at St. Quentin. Chicago music lovers have subscribed $200,500 for the next grand opera season in that city. It is to begin November IS, with "Sampson and Delilah." Fuller Melllsh has been re-engaged for the role of the priest next season In support of Miss Gertrude Elliott in "Rebellion," Joseph Medill Patterson's latest "play. Charles Dickson, author of "Three Twins," "Bright Eyes," and other successes, has practically completed the selection of his cast of principals for his new play, "An Average Chap." A. H. Woods will produce "The Broken Rosary," a new play by Edward Peple, during the engagement of Dustin and William Farnum in "The Littlest Rebel," at the Chicago Opera House In October. A series of motion pictures of Mary Anderson in her home near Exeter has been obtained by E. M. Newman in connection with other material for his travel talks the coming season. The Chicago opera house, one of the most Important playhouses In Chicago for many years, is to be torn down. The Marshall Field estate will build a $10,000,000 store and office building on the Bite. Rose Stahl, who is resting in Ireland, will return August 18, and directly afterward rehearsals will begin for the New York production of the Klein play, "Maggie Pepper," which isto open the

WOMAN TELLS HOW WOMEN SHOULD SWIM

In an article on swimming In the August Woman's Home Companion, the

author records a great deal of informa tlon that Is Just as Interesting to land' lubbers as It Is helpful to young swim mers. Following is' a brief extract:

"It may surprise some new swimmers to know that one can iboth see and hear under the water. Seeing Is not diffi

cult whrn once you have the idea.

firmly implanted in your mind that wa

ter will not hurt the eyes. Particularly Is this true of sea water, the salt in which is soothing, rather than irritating. But never open your eyes to see under water before you are under water; never dive with the eyes open, or go from surface to underneath or vice versa, with the eyes open. The water at its surface seems to have an actual edge, which stings the eye. Learn to swim with three limbs, to dispense with either arm or either leg. You may need an arm to bring ashore somebody who needs help, you may have a cramp some time and have to do .without one of your 'propellers.' The trick is easy. It Is merely more tiresome to swim without arm or one leg, but not much harder than to swim with all. "As the very strongest man in the world is a weakling in the grasp of a good-sized comber, such waves must bue outwitted, not outwrested. And, to be at home in the breakers, even beyond your depth. It Is only necessary to know what a wave really is and where It Is weak. Many people believe their eyes, and' are sure that a wave travels. The water moves up and down, and the motion moves forward, but the water doesn't travel. Consequently, if you get beyond the breakers the waves will go up and down and carry you with them, but won't sweep you forward. "Near the shore the waves behave differently; they curl over ana break, and there the water, as well as the motion, travels. And, if you are just at the curling point, the water will pick you up and sweep you in, and you can literally 'ride the waves," than which there is no finer sport in the seat. But woe unto you If you get a bit ahead of the curling wave-front, for then you will be turned over and

twisted around and Hung to the bottom. "'Hence, It Is wise to experiment with little waves, first and learn Just where they do break and Just where they actually commence to exert a forward movement on your body before testi-e your swimming powers in the surf."

Harris Theater the last week In August. Ian Macleren, the noted English actor, is now In New York, ready to go to work for Liebler & Co., who will place him either in "Disraeli" or "The Garden of Allah." Mr. Maclaren has never appeared In America, but enjoys a fine reputation in England. James IC .Hackett has been granted

a discharge in bankruptcy. -' The Shubtrts have secured a new opera entitled "The Wandering Gypsy." A new drama, entitled "The Soul of Woman," has been produced In Brooklyn. George W. Wilson will star next season in vaudeville In a playlet called "Fifty Years After." Eva Tanguay, It was announced recently, Is going to make a tour of the

world to last two years.

A novel entitled "The Wife Decides," an attack on divorce, will be dramatized and produced this fall. Of the receipts, estimated at about $100,000, which the Friars' Frolic realized, $70,000 art clear profits. Grace Ellison has been engaged as a member of Henrietta Crossman'a company, playing "The Real Thing." The recent revival of "Pinafore" has been so successful that Its engagement has been extende din New York. At the end of the present season. It is said, George Primrose, the well known minstrel, will retire from the stage. One of the successful plays in Paris is "L'Abbe Constantin," a dramatization of the well known story of that name. A new play, entitled "Baxter's Partner," is to toe produced in New York

next season. It Is the work of a young St. Louis lawyer. Owen Davis is writing a new book for "Little Nemo," which Is to be revived by A. H. Woods, with the original music by Victor Herbert. George M. Cahon has gone to Atlantic City, N. J., and will spend his vacation In writing two new musical plays for the coming season. Blanche Ring Is to appear next season In "The Wall Street Girl." by Edgar Selwyn, Margaret Mayo, Otto Hauerbach and J. Karl Hoschna. Logan Paul has been engaged for the role of the Judge In "The Night Riders," and his daughter, Phyllis Paul, for the part of the judge's daughter. The first new play which John Cort will produce during the coming season

will 'be "Sadie." The production will

take place in New 1 ork late in Octo ber. , Fred Niblo, who Is to resume the title role in "The Fortune Hunter," early In September, has just been selected president of the Actors' Society of America. "Pomander Walk," though written by an English dramatist, had its first production in this country. It was- so successful that the play is to be presented in London. It is reported that William H. Crane Intends a revival of David Demarsst Lloyd's comedy, 'The Senator," next season. Mr. Crane first appeared in the part of Senator Hannibal Rivers in this piece in 1S90.

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Brazil A petition has been filed with the county commissioners, playing for the dredging, straightening and shortening of Eel river through thi? county and Green and Owen counties, extending south from a point In this county near Neal's Mills. The petition bears the signatures of more than one hundred of the property owners along the proposed route.. The petition cites that the improvement will redeem many thousand acres of the finest farm lands in the state that are nearly all the time under water. The Improvement will shorten the river between the points named from, over one hundred miles In length to twenty-three miles It is estimated that two years will be required to do the necessary dredging, and that the cost will aggregate between $150,000 and $200,000.

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