Hammond Times, Volume 4, Number 95, Hammond, Lake County, 8 October 1909 — Page 13
13 Friday, Oct. 8, 190k ,
THE HUES.
FADS AND FASHIONS
New York, Oct. 8. The models juet .n from Paris and representing the output of nearly every great designer of fashions In that city give a fair Idea ..of the styles to be worn during the !ate autumn and. probably, the earlr winter season. In street suits, whUe many of the coats seem to be short,
Jns trimmed with laces and metallic embroideries. These materials are all draped and caught In panler style, so that It would be easy to imagine one's self transported back through the years to the court of Louis XVI. Afternoon gowns are mainly one piece in style, and most of them are heavily
there are yet many which are very i embroidered, a fashion always recom
long, and these last will probably ap-I mended by Raudnltx. One might say
peal to the majority of American wo- j the richest confections are in princess
men. Each great maker seems willing style, but half covered by draped over-
to endorse both fashions, and each one seems to favor velvet and like materials for the making. Drecoll has made
skirts.
Among the latest importations are
some extremely handsome blouses.
beautiful suits of velvet and zibeline, j They are ag a rulCi rather Cose t0 the
which might be described as a kind of
of wool velvet or long-napped suiting. Martial and Armand have designed some charming suits of corduroy and velours frappe, while Raudnltx has adopted as his medium soft cloths of velvety looks.
figure than otherwise. There is noth
ing bunchy about them. Outstanding
gathers are carefully avoided. The
line of the shoulder Is undisturbed by
sleeve fullness, and the shape of the
ar mis evident, except when sheer or
soft materials are fulled into the cuff
In evening gowns the house of Mar- , and after they have passed the point tial and Armand has declared itself In j of the shoulder cap. Frills are perfavor of crepes de chine and dull sat- miasible about the hand when they i i prove becoming, and also as a part of
Cures "Woman's Weaknesses. "We refer to that boon to weak, nervous. Buffering women known as Dr. Pierce's Favorite Prescription. Dr. John Fyfe one of the Editorial Staff ef Thk Eclectic Medical Review says Dt Unicorn root (Ilclonlas Dloica) which Is one of the chief Ingredients of the "Favorite Prescription " : "A remedy which Invariably acts as auterlre lnvlgorator makes for normal activity of the entire reproductive system." He continues "in Helpnias we have a medicament which more fully answers the abovepurposes than any other drug with which I am acquainted. In the treatment of dUeasei peculiar to women it is seldom that a case la Ben which does not present some indication for this remedial went." Dr. Fyfe furthex ears: "The following are among the leading Indications for Iieloulas (Unicorn root). Paia or acbln? In the back, with leucorrhcea : atonic (weak) condltlolT of the reproductive
k ;
f
the Plerot stock when length of neck and a somewhat sloping line of shoulder admit of such fullness. For very practical blouses to be -vorn with tailored trotting costumes, the tub models in linen, cotton, crepe, to., are now worn through the winter, but there are good looking models !r. silk, too, rather more of these silk models in fact than there have been in recent winter seasons. The rise of
moire has brought It Into the realm of
the blouse, and Some atractlve tailored models are made up of this silk, which , is now to be had in qualities of delight- ' ful supleness and lustre. One such blouse offered In various modish color- ' ings achieved considerable smartness on very simple lines because of the beautiful quality and coloring of the silk. It was laid in two plaits on each
organs of Vomen. inenta depression and lr- i shoulder, though shoulder lines, by the r&rfp&fe ' t be. narrow this season, and sensation qt heat In the region of the kid; : deep plaits falling over the sleeve top
i's:mer)rrh&gianooaine. aue to a weaK- are consequently not desirable, though
eed condition or the reproductive system: , 0. wmlnr -rw0 , 1
menorTjo?yiWAiressea wr oseni mommy j nun..,
lappea across tne right, was fastened in a point with a handosme ornament made from cords covered with the silk. The small V left open in front was filled In by a guimpe or cream net, and a tiny collar of the moire turned down upon the white collar. "Another simple and pretty model In
moire is open narrowly the entire length of the front to show tiny frothy
frills of Valenciennes set on cream net
and across the bust the blouse fronts
are held in place by a lacing of the
silk passing through two big embrold
ered eyelets on each' side of the front
This blouse
leriod,?,irfk from or accompanying an ftbnoBayll condition of the digestive orsrans nd kiUvmlc ( thin blood ) habit: drageinz
eensuions In the extreme lower part of tba abdtffnen." .... If more or lf3 of the ahov gvisntoms BPftr-nt'. Ho invalid omp cangS tetter than tako Dr. fierce s Favorite Frfc'iripti61)Ton5 M"Th6 'leading ingreui-' entiot wLicli is Unicorn root, or Helonlaa, and the medical properties of which it most faithfully represents. Of Golden Seal root, another prominent Ingredient of "Favorite Prescription, Prof. Finley Ellingwood, M. D., of Bennett Medical College, Chicago, says: "It is an important remedy in disorders of the womb. In all catarrhal conditions ...... ..nf.in).liiriiiTt It. la UQfflll "
IToi. Jonn Jl. fecuaaer, m. u., iate oi .
Cincinnati, savs of Golden Seal root :
"in relation to its general enects on tne fsystem, there in no medicine in use atxnit which thcte i such general unanimity of opinion. lb Is wivnxilJy regarded as the tonic useful la all debilitated states." Prof. R. Bartholow, M. D.. of Jefferson Medical College, Bays of Golden Seal : "Valuable In uterine hemorrhage, menorthagla (flooding) and congestive dysnienorrho?a (painful menstruation)." Dr. Pierce's Favorite Prescription faithf ul'y represents all the above named ingredients and cures the diseases for which they are recommended.
I also has cuffs or tiny undersleeves of
net and Valenciennes showing slightly
around the inner arm to fill an outline in the silk, whose edges are held in
place by silk lacing on the same order
as that of the blouse front, only nar-
lose by elaboration In blouse models.
A good model in bengaline has the
plaited shoulder and plain fronts of the moire model described, but fastens
straight up the middle front, with odd little snail buttons and loops of silk covered cord trimming the front line and a plaited frill of cream net falling
along the edge from the throat to be- I low the bust line. A high collar of the silk has a fold of cream net for finish and there is a narrowly tit of the net at the bottom of the sleeves which are long and close save for a full puff let Into the outer line from shoulder to elbow. Crepe blouses in delightful designs are to be found among the Imported models and are really the prettiest of their kind. Some are very simple In line but elaborately hand embroidered In seir-tone. Others are merely tucked or plaited and receive smartness from a chic guimpe or cravat and sleeve. One very effective blouse in a warm old crepe of exquisite tone had for its
only trimmings narrow lines of drawn stitching, forming a design on front, back and sleees. Every new season brings its own
exclusive touch on neck wear. This
season it is the touch of color on the
new stock cravat and jabot. Among
all the charming variations of tone and
tint, black comes nearest to the French
woman's heart. The merest cord of
satin fastened under a cravat gives the
black touch to the Pierrot collar. Its
construction is the simplest possible,
beine merely a fitted collar with a
a sewed-on yoke piece, both opening at the back and made of sheerest linen slightly embroidered. The frills beneath the top and bottom scallops are?
made of hand-hemmed linen.
Just now the mothers of girls of
school age are confronted with the problem of planning dresses for the little ones. The shops display a large
assortment of one-piece dresses for school wear. Some of these fasten at the side under a panel and come in
white and colored wools or worsted
materials, mohairs, cashmeres, as well as red and English linens, In white
and colors. Toilor made suits are much better taste for the maid of ten than elaborate dresses. A number of the tailored suits have deep yokes to the skirt. This adaptation of the styles of adults is also seen in the coats. The most exclusive of the metropolitan sloops make a big feature of wash dresses for winter wear. The exclusive set in New York affect a rigid simplic
ity in the dressing of the child. The
washable materials are so attractive
for young girls that where expense need not be considered it Is much
smarter to follow this plan of dress
The English linens come In such fas
cinating shades and they respond so
readily to the artistic touch of the em broidery.
In hats for young girls beavers take the lead, but French felts are also quite popular. An lnnovatlo nin the
hat line for girls is that which looks like patent leather, but is soft felt
with a patent leather finish. There is
also a kid-topped hat. At the smart
shops children's school hats are extremely simple, showing on'y small bows, smalj bunches of rosebu33 or a bsi.d of silk. Some of the hats have strings tied under the chin. Hair rib-
rower.
Faille and bengaline are made up into tailored blouses, though not so new as the moire. They are, of course, hand
led In somewhat severe tailored fash
ion. Indeed, all of these fancy silks i bons play an Imporant part in tho ward
robe of the schoolgirl. They should match her stockings, but it is permissible to match them lo the hat. Muffs will be worn this season In the evening. Of course they will not be like the ordinary winter muffs; they will be huge creations of chiffon, lace
and ribbon, very ligiit and flimsy.
The Moyen age Influence is felt in
many of the two and three-piece suits and the fancy dresses. This term
"Moyen age" takes In a wide varia
tion of styles, but there are three effects always to be obtained In striving for It a new treatment of plaits In the skirt, the elongated waist and the semlflttlng bodice. One of the distinct arts In this dressy tpye is the natural blending Just above the knees of the long
waist line and the pleats. The entire success of the gown depends upon the manner In which the pleats are introduced. If suddenly, the gown is a failure; if artistically, and softened somewhat by an effectively draped sash or some form of trimming, there Is scarcely a style so universally becoming as the Moyen age. especially to the slender maid and the graceful matron. The gentle Introduction of a sash of soft color In an inconspicuous manner gives a gentle harmony to the costume. Unfortunately, this is the point where the amateur Invariably fails. Among the colors that predominate for the fall are coal dust, black, raisin, seal brown and mustard. The smartest of materials are to be had in these
shades, as well as In the different vio
let shadings, pervenche, mogol. a
brownish rose color, gravier, pebble
gray, raspberry red, a dark purplish
blue and bordeaux red. Green, a dark
yellow.lsh green and other tints of
green running from a delicate tint to the brightest of reds are good colors
to select when purchasing reception and matinee dresses. Blues, reds and
browns, however, are to be the real favorites. In silks of the soft hues and
In broadcloths there is no color so ap
pealing and atractlve as a golden brown. Blue are here In Prussian and gensdarmes shades, the latter of course,
being the shade of blue worn by the policemen In France. Until this fall
brown has been on the passe list, but
the new and alluring color card for fall
and winter has put It in the front
ranks of fashionable shades.
The Dutch and eton collars are promised a renewed popularity through
the winter season, but it is not likely
that these low neck dressings will sur
vlve the first touoh of really cold weather, for there is something bare
and undressed about the neck in
Dutch collar, worn with a heavy coat on a cold day. Blouses opening to
ward one side have started the fad for one-sided jabots, the frills of which
are wider on one side than on the oth
er. A strap of Irish or cluny Insertion
forms the center of such a Jabot,,
perky bow of lace or pleated muslin
being set at the top. Down the left side goes a pleated frill or two frills
of very fine bastlste edged with lace
aVid down the opposite side a tiny frill
just as a finish. These Jabots will be worn with the new coats, opening low over the breast, the snowy frills peeping out between the coat lapels. Lace
jabots will also be used for dressy wear
in the afternoons, and a lace jabot is attached to a high lace stock, with perhaps a smart bow of the new fashionable moire ribbon added in front. The most satisfactory stocks just now are made of embroidered linen and the strong beautiful Irish lace, which is so very fashionable. This year again there is a fancy for the fluffy neck bows of illusion, or maline, and these airy bows, tucked beneath the chin, are bewitchlngly becoming. The maline bow, of course, matches the hat in color; or beter still, it may be all white which Is the most becoming style. It is predicted that the Louis XVI. tricorn. or three-cornered hat. is
coming back this winter with its mass of feathers. Some models of that kind
have already been shown together with
the high Russian turban and other new
styles of the present season.
Among dress accessories, the hoods
and scarfs, the latter of Spanish lace.
with long fringe across the ends, are
the smartest novelties.
Gloves of the winter are to be in
black, tan, white and gray and positively in no other colors.
FLORENCE FAIRBANKS.
THE LATEST IN FASHIONS
PLAYS AND PLAYERS.
Blanche Walsh has opened her sea
son in "The Test" at Norfolk recently.
Una Abarhanell is soon to star with her own company 1n a new light opera.
Grace Van Studdiford is to have a new opera, with music by Reginald De Koven. Mabel Hite and her husband, Mike Donlln, will appear this season in a baseball comedy. Winchell Smith and James Montgomery have written a play of life on the Pactific coast entitled. "A Native Son."
T. Tamamoto, the renowned Japanese
actor, has been engaged by George II. Brennan to play the role of Shima In "The Coast of Chance." AVlnchell Smith is reported to be writing a new comedy to be produced by Cohan and Harris this season. It will be called "The Outsider." Among the actors supporting Maxlne Elliott In her new Japanese playlet, "Bayonara." will be Jluian L'Estrange, Arthur Whitby and several others. Brandon Tynan, author of "The Passion Flower," in which Alia Naiimova Is to appear this season, will himself act an important part In that play. Charles Frohman has obtained the American rights to "The Bross Battle," a new comedy by F. Anstey, which was
recently produced In London with good
success.
Mrs. Anne Crawford Flexntr, who made the dramatization of "Mrs Wiggs of the Cabbage Patch," has sold to
Liebler & Co. a new play based upon an American topic.
A. H. Woods, the playwright, Is said
to be engaged on an arctic drama called
"A Dash for the Pole," in which he
proposes to Introduce some features of
current history.
It Is declared by some enthusiasts that the new play, "Anathema." by the
Russian writer, Andreyev, is a "new
' 4 v. ' ' P -I r ' i.' - f fAxx ' v is ' 'j- ' , v ' JN ? v- i I i ' s f v - x5 L i, s - ' - .'I . i i i - h t " t - ' - - ?! ' - . w ; 4 " rr - A 1 i i - - v1 !.- r " f j "A', L - - . i 1' ' I - ' ' f-A f , v - . f ' i i ' t 1 ; ' ; s ' - 4 ' '""i" JLJM? r -i Ll ., :., , t"
COAT AND SKIRT SUIT OF GREEN CLOTH. Green Is extremely fashionable this fall. A stunning suit of green cloth is pictured here, the coat falling in tunic or Russian smock, effect cWr a pleated skirt. The coat, which is very graceful and distinguished in style, shows the long revers and very low opening which are fashionable now, an introduction of black satin giving character to the garment, as do the big green buttons with metal rims. The hat Is a napped beaver, trimmed with coque feathers.
Faust." It Is to be brought out next month in a Moscow theater. Miss Mannerlng will begin her season In "The Watcher," a play in four acts by Cora Maynard. The theme savors of spiritualism, the watcher being the spirit of the mother working wonders In the family. Raymond Hitchcock In "The Man Who Owns Broadway," will bsgin his Broadway season at the New York theater. New York, next Monday. The piece Is a musical version of George M. Cohan's clever play entitled "Popularity." "The Florist Shop" Is to be made ln
a musical play, and for that reason Henry "W. Savage will interrupt the tour of the piece. Oliver Herford has completed lyrics for the new version. There will be only a few changes in the cast.
Area Not the Biggest Factor. Any scientific farmer can tell tb.9 modern Malthuses that it is cheapet to raise a certain product on 50 acres well farmed than on 200 poor acres. Area and its present yield may almost be disregarded in figuring what population the earth ran support.
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