Jasper Weekly Courier, Volume 59, Number 5, Jasper, Dubois County, 6 October 1916 — Page 7

ti

TRIMMED

Apropos of felt hats, I must record the fact that "cut felt" hats are an j absolute rage In Paris and also at Biarritz, writes a correspondent from I the latter place. These hats are "cut everywhere." The border of the brim is cut juul left without binding; the only trimming consists of a band and flat bow of felt with "cut" edges. These hats are charming In all the soft neutral tints; pale beige, silver gray, gray-blue and so on. Directoire shapes are being revived, and while crowns get higher and higher, very narrow brims are all the fashion. Nearly all the new sailor shapes In felt have soft crowns which are cleverly manipulated to give the impression of a double band around the crown. In some cases wide bands of black or dark blue ribbon are introduced, but the correct thing at the present moment is the felt hat trimmed with fur. Lewis is showing some very eccentric hats in his Biarritz establishment. This milliner has the courage of his convictions and such a large following that almost any model launched by him becomes popular. In his showrooms I have seen a good many dlrectoire toques, with towering crowns and the narrowest of narrow brims. These toques are trimmed with flat bands of fur; or with lengths of bright colored picot ribbons, the latter being twisted round the high crown and tied In jaunty bows at one side. White felt hats are now worn with the thinnest and most transparent dresses, and it is said that white and pale tinted felt hats will be fashionable all through the winter. I have recently seen some beautiful tailored suits in Worth's show rooms. This dressmaker remains true to the traditions of his house. Nothing eccentric or merely sensational finds a place in the Maison Worth, but everything is in the most perfect taste. Worth is making all his new winter coats quite ong, that is to say, kneelength. Ami these coats are accompanied by plaited skirts which almost reach the ankle. The result is admirThe Latest Biarritz Novelty Is the Hat of Cut Felt With Hatter's Band to Match. nblu He showed me a lovely Louis XIV coat which had just been created for an English duchess. It was made of raven's-wing-blue faced cloth and trimmed with bands of sable; there were large cut jet buttons which had tiny diamond centers, and the coat was lined with pompadour brocade which showed dull blue flowers on a dark purple ground. No panniers; nothing that could possibly be twisted into a "bustle." His dinner gowns for matrons these have always been a Worth specialty are made of the most magnificent velvets and brocades, and some of the trains of these gowns arc heavily embroidered. PLEA FOR TAILORED SUIT Us Slim Body and High Rolling Collar Become the American Woman Very Well. The top coat will be in its glory tills Season. That much is settled over here. The one-piece frock, therefore, i will triumph over the tailored suit, as far as numbers go. The American woman, however, Is peculiarly fitted to wear the tailored suit, and if she gives it up she will make a serious inistake. The lack of men workers In France and the garment makers here produced a comparative dearth of plain coats and skirts. The suits that have been brought over, however, are excessively good looking. If a woman wears one with brilliancy she will look like a miniature of one of her ancestors. Collars are high and rolling. Revers are large and important. The body part is slim, such as a dandy would like, and the full peplum falls in various convolutions over the hips. There is room enough, however, for several kinds of costumes in the average American's wardrobe. The onepiece frock is a necessity, if one leads any manner of social life. The top coat Is lavishly trimmed this year, when it is used for ceremonial occasions, and in satin, heavily soutached, it has reached the apex, of fashion. DONE IN APPLIQUE WORK Tea Cosy in a Design That Is Both Effective and Original Shown in the Sketch. An effective and very original cosy Is shown In the accompanying sketch. It is carried out In cream-colored silk, and the boats are indicated with small pieces of material of various colors sewn in their places in applique vork. The sails are made of brown silk,

WITH FUR

and diagrams A and B show the shapes in which they should be cut out The side of the boat Is represented with black silk, and diagram C shows the shape of the piece that will be required. Diagram D gives the shape of the material :or the stern of Üie boat, and for this gray silk is ,ed. The reflections of thtf boats in the water are worked with silk of various shades of blue, and the seagulls are indicated with gray silk. The masts of the boats are worked with dark brown silk and the little flags with scarlet. The cosy is edged with blue and white silk cord, which is arranged iu three little loops in the center at the top. With the exercise of a little ingenuity some very quaint and pretty cosies of other designs can be prepared in the manner described. SKIRTS TO BE PRACTICAL New Models Show Some Changes, Though Designers Have Not Put Out Anything Extreme. riaited skirts showing panels of plaits at front and back or at the sides accomplish the required flare without ungainly bulk. This type of skirt promises well, especially the box-plaited variety, which will be in vogue this fall. Nov" there is a new skirt which interests rather than pleases. 'It is barrel shaped and encircled with many bands, which give it the resemblance which occasions the name. This is slightly different from the skirt with a flare at the bottom and the wired hip. Another trimmed skirt is called the lamp shade. It consists of alternate layers of taffeta puffs thinly wired and wider puffs of net or chiffon. 'The whole resembles most accurately the silk lamp shade of days before the arts and crafts era. In the same line of pretty summer frocks are costumes made of cotton voile or organdie, trimmed with lovely girdles of silk and ribbon." Wide ribbons swathe the 'waistline and are sometimes used to make panniers. Sometimes two colors are twisted to form the girdle and end of a sash, while a third color is used for the knot. New Fall Model. The dropped yoke is fastened to the front of the blouse with chenille covered buttons and there an inch band of it crosses the back of the collar. A MILITANT TOUCH This frock and hat are examples of the effect produced by a few innovations along military lines. The hat is suggestive of a hussar's, carried to an extreme. The long lines of the coat, which is of light-toned biscuit-colored broadcloth, cannot be anything if not soldier-like. The cross bands t the waist and the but-ton-hcle bands might easily have been taken from the uniform of the West Pointer. The collarette, wide skirt bands, and cuffs aro of Hudson seal.

i :

i ass mm

MTIONALl

OPITAL

Uncle Sam's Lights That Signal Storm Warnings WASHINGTON. Uncle Sam's lighthouse service is not the only one of his agencies that display lights at night for the information and welfare of the mariner. Whenever a storm ;ls brewing along the coasts or over the inland waterways colored, lights twin

cases the stations are being relocated at points easily seen by the officers of approaching or passing ships. The new stations are being installed in tall, specially constructed steel toyers, dozens of which are being erected along the shores of the live lakes and their connecting waterways. The taller towers will make possible the establishment of the new signal system in which three lights, one above the other, will be uspd instead of the tw lights in a vertical plane heretofore employed. The new system was worked out after experiments carried on by the instrument experts of the weather bureau on the Potomac below Washington under various weather conditions. These experiments brought out the fact that lights, to be seen by the naked eye as separate bright objects, must be approximately four feet apart for each mile the observer is distant. This information was made use of in designing the new towers and in arranging the placement of the signal lamps. At the same time the instrument experts experimented with various lights and decided to make use of electric bulbs

of the new gas-filled type to increase equipped stations.

How Oscar Underwood Folds and Stamps a Letter 0XE of the funny sights of Washington is Senator Oscar Underwood in the ' act of folding up a letter. Underwood is a man greatly prejudiced in favor of neatness, not only in his personal appearance but in everything he does. He would no more be a party to

a letter carelessly folded than he would wear the same collar all week. First he folds the sheet over, matches the corners right down to an infinitesimal fraction of a hair's breadth, and carefully creases the paper in the middle. Then comes the most difficult part. He must determine, just with his eye, how to make three additional folds, each one of exactlv the same size. Having done that, Underwood stares at the finished product a mo ment to make certain It is spotless and

If he discovered one edge protruding even an eentsy-teentsy bit beyond the others it would make him unhappy. But if his workmanship seems to be all right, he carefully licks the flap of the envelope, taking pains to see that every particle of the mucilage is moistened. He seals the envelope with great care and that brings him to the delicate " task of putting on the stamp. None of your iopsidedly stamped envelopes for Oscar. He takes enough time to insure having the stamp in perfect plumb-line with the end of tllQ envelope and then proceeds painstakingly to the folding of the next letter. If he is free from interruptions Underwood can fold from 10 to 15 letters an hour. His letters are usually done up by others, however, and in that way he gains a great deal of time for affairs of state. Neatness is just as much a part of the Underwood make-up as his calmness. And the only thing that might ever ruffle that calmness would be a lack of neatness. Once in a while one of his office force wilt hurriedly crumple up a piece of waste paper and fire it at the waste basket and miss. If

j Underwood happens to be at his desk and sees the piece of crumpled paper on j the floor, he will quietly and unostentatiously go and pick it up and place it in the basket.

Good Hunting Ground for the ' Amateur Botanist THE environs of Washington are an excellent hunting ground for the ai.iieur botanist, for they are full of varieties of plants trees, shrubs,

wild flowers, mosses and ferns. To hold even the commonest of these varieties in one's mind is a stupendous feat,

7 '-r V V;-ISM

ing almost every capital thoroughfare is a line of trees, some common, other imported varieties. By noticing these tme soon acquires a deeper interest. And then the real holidays come when the woods are sought and truly inspiring lessons are learned in the real out-of-doors of nature. The tree families are well represented here. The deciduous varieties, meaning those which shed their leaves, are especially abundant. Of course, the oaks are in manifold numbers the Spanish, pin, shingle, black jack, swamp white, red, black, bur, post and white. These are everywhere and they have a venerable history. The maples have taken a hold on Washington's fancy, and elms, gums, and many less familiar trees are numerous here. To many people the chief charm of the woods and fields lies in the multitudes of wild flowers that are to be found. Washington may deem itself fortunate in having a bountiful supply. Their names are legion, and it is an impossible task to cover the list. One of the difficulties of such a list is that many of the flowers found in the woods have escaped from some garden, and though they are found apparently uncultivated they cannot be called wild flowers; on the other hand, many of the originals of the perfected garden flowers are trailing there in their simple loveliness and the list is about evened.

Collection of Meteorites in National Museum 1r CONSIDERING the wonders of the universe, have you ever realized how COnspicilOUS among them are Uje meteorites, those wonderful messages, dropped from the sky, for one to wonder at and study? They are the only material objects which come to the

earth from the vast outer world. In the collection shown in the new building of the National museum in this city is a remarkably fine exhibit of meteorites. It includes complete meteorites ranging in size from the merest pebhles to great bowlderlike masses, and casts reproducing giant forms like that of Bacubirito, which has been estimated to weigh 25 tons, and 5;tili rests where it fell in Mexico.

The National museum has recently issued a handbook and descriptive catalogue of the meteorite collection in the museum, written by Dr. George P. Merrill, head curator of geology. Although meteorites have presumably fallen since time immemorial, a great deal of skepticism was felt at first by both the popular and scientific minds regarding the possibilities of stones falling from space. So great was this skepticism that the examples preserved in the public museums were once hidden or discarded, the custodians fearing to make laughing stocks of themselves.

AFFAIR

kle forth from hundreds of special storm-warning stations of the weather bureau, combined in such a way as to furnish navigators with specific information that will forearm them. One Interesting fact is that the mushroomlike growth of many lake ports, bringing into existence cities with their myriads of lights, obscured numbers of the stations that when established were the most outstanding features of the night view. In such still further the efficiency of the newly free from the slightest imperfection. but once accomplished, it leads ever onward. Most people have a good 4 nucleus for phint knowledge around which to accumulate more. The love of nature seems implanted within the human heart. There is no denying that things out of doors call irresistibly. And tree students, it is said, become as enthusiastic as bird students. The streets of Washington are the rightful places for beginners. Border

jfcJM O r

LOST. tNTHUSIASM FOR JOB

Question Caused Colored Boy to Reconsider Requester Employment in Munition Works. George Ade says that a friend of his In Bridgeport, Conn., had a negro boy working for him as janitor. One morning the darky announced that he was about to quit. "I laks you, boss," he explained to Ade's friend, "and I ain't got no fault to find wid dis heah job. But dey tells me daf over heah at dese munitious works de's payln' fo' dollahs a day. And I 'lows to git some of dai easy money." Being paid off, he departed. Two days later he came back and applied for his former place. "Didn't ycfficare for the new job?" asked Mr. Bpfck. "I quit be I got dat far," stated the negro. "Yistiddy moruin I goes over tö dem munitions works and I tells de man in de little office at de gate in de big high wall outside dat 1'se done come to get one of dem fo'-dollar-a-day jobs of his'n. He says 'all right,' and den he gits out a book and he axes me whut is my name. I tells him whut is my name, and den he say : 'Whar do you want de remains sent?' And I look him in do eye and I say: 'Boss, don't you pester yo'se'f 'bout do remains, c'se I'se g'wine take 'em with me right now.'" Saturday Evening Post. HOLIEST SHRINE IN MEXICO It Is the Collegiate Church of Guadalupe, Which Contains Miraculous Picture. The Collegiate Church of GuadMupe, together with the chapel on an adja cent hill, is the holiest shrine in Ivfcxico. It stands on the site where the , Virgin is reputed to have appeared to ! an Indian, Juan Diego, instructing him to take a message to the archbishop asking that a shrine be built there in her honor. After appearing to him several times, she finally commanded him to climb to the top of the hill, where the chapel now stands, but i which had always been barren, and there to gather a bunch of roses to take to the archbishop. This the Indian did ; but when he unfolded his scrape it was found to conlain, so the account runs, a miraculously painted picture of the Virgin. This picture is now venerated by all Mexicans and occupies the center of the altar. The features and the complexion are those of an Indian princess. National Geographic Magazine. Linen From Irish Flax. Some of the flax for the large out put of linen from Ireland is being grown in that country since the war. Previous to the war a large part of the ! llax for the Irish linen was grown in 1 Belgium. The preparation of the flax j is not an agreeable process. The plant is pulled up by the roots and thrown into a ditch of water to decay so that the part needed for the linen may be easily separated from the remainder. It is an odorous process, the smell of the decaying vegetation enveloping the country most unpleasantly. Then the worker, after the decaying process has reached the proper stage, is often obliged to stand knee deep in the water to work. AVith the war flax growing was given up in Belgium and Ireland , is again taking it up. New York Times. Seam-Driven Seaplanes. Navy department experiments Indicate that steam-driven seaplanes may solve the motor problem of air navigation. Many oflicers believe that only the question of getting the weight of the steam plant down to the lowest possible figure remains to be answered before a steamer of the air is constructed and tried out. Steam equipment would guarantee constancy of power upon which aero planes depend for stability. Most ac-! cidents to aviators, it is pointed out, may be due to failure of motors. Steam turbines also would provide power far in excess of anything now obtainable with gasoline engines, it is said, a fac- ; tor vital to the navy, since seaplanes ; are much heavier than aeroplanes for service over land. Tungsten. The malleable and ductile tungsten patented in the United States by a Budapest metallurgist is prepared by j adding to fused mettalic tungsten j about 2 per cent of boron or boron , nitride. The boron so transforms the j metal that it can be worked or drawn I Into wire. A suggested explanation of the change is that tungsten boride Is formed at the fusing temperature, and that this prevents the formation of the large crystals that give brittleness to the metal. Too Many Issues. "How in the world did you get yourself involved in an engagement with that scrawny, ill-tempered Miss Oldgirl?" "You see, I wasn't on my guard. I got so absorbed in the European war, the railroad strike, the eight-hour law, and the British blacklist, that I forgot this was leap year." Some Job. "I've got a new job. I'm a barber at a soda fountain." "A barber at a soda fountain?" "Yes; I shave the ice." Foolish Question. Old Lady And did the shell burst? Wounded Soldier No, ma'am, It crawled up behind me when I wasn't lookin and bit me!

- - A for and (Get -W THE HIGHEST QUALITY MACARONI 36 Age Recipe Boot frre SKINNER MFG. CO.. OMAHA, USA 1AJKKST KACAAOMI FACTDiY IN AMfUCA

The Kattman Shock Absorbers WITH REBOUNt SMIN6S FOR rOU CARS FrereBt YlbraUMOTercon ttto reboa springs wakM It rid Mtay. Order a set t4j. PRICE SO.OO COMPLETE SET Agents and dealers write for our speeial selling proposition. Send for circular. The Neble Mfg. Co., KcndaIIviII,ltf. URIC ACID NEYER CAUSED RHEUMATISM" I WANT to proTett to rosr aatMte. tlon. I r you Hare ruieuniM Neudtis, est or chronic e what your coadltlon write for my FREE BOOK on -RHEUMATISM -Its Ctuio and Cure " ThmSAmls call 1 1 Th moit wonderfal book eTer written." Don't tn4 tJirap-it'f ABSOLUTELY TREE. JESSE A. OASE Dept. C. V. BrockKm, Mm. PATENTS Watson E.olem, Patent Lawyer, Washlnffto, TV fl Ailrirr nnd hnoks (n& Katen roaaonablo. muhest rofpronces. JJcstfecrrlw STOP THIEF WINDOW LOOK SMSSi, JSS them down or part way open. Sample. 25c 11te. FRANKLIN CO.. Box 11, CHDAIt ÜAl'LDö. IOWA vte rSK annually $200,000,000 In hosier?. Thro 11 b & dent In the K!tf,OUO,000 If you order yonr hoalery riskt from the factory: 4, 8,12 pairs guaranteed for 4.8, U months or ropJaco free. J. K. euer, is 18 K. is St., Chi COC UKIKf irf Vam Rnllablo money maXlng bnslnea. ILO lllilOiaU IOUsPOTLKtjH. S161 8. 4Ui. St, LouU, Chicago has dedicated a new clubhouse for boys in Larrabee street Beautiful, clear white clothes delight the laundress who uses Red Crosi 1311 Blue. All grocers. Adv. Hard to Please. "I'd like to show this patent cleaner to your wife." "My wife is out." "I'll leave it onapproval." "You're taking a long chance, old man. My wife never quite approve anything." Cinnaminson Sage. "The English cabinet's dreadful bungles at Gallipoli and Kut are to h investigated and the investigator! have been appointed by the cabinet ItSelf." The speaker. Representative McLeinore, shook his head. 'This fact," he said, "recalls the epigram of the Cinnaminson sago: " 'Ye can't strengthen neither a crumblin' wall nor a crumblin' reputation with whitewash. ' New Dimes Nearly Ready. The first of the new 10-cent pice are ready for issue. They are being turned out at the Philadelphia mint at the rate of 250,000 a day and 10,000,000 of them are to be issued. The new piece bears the figure of a Grecian lady on the obverse side and the bundle and rods and the ax of the Roman lictors on the reverse. Within the next two weeks work will be begun on the new 2o-cent pieces, while the making of the new design half-dollars will not be started until the early part of October. . The newly designed quarter on one side has the full figure of a woman coming through a gate in a wall; the reverse side shows an eagle in flight. The 50-cent piece bears a full-length figure of the Goddess of Liberty holding olive branches, while the reverse design Is that of a spread eagle standing on a rock. "Another Article Against Coffee" In spite of broad publicity, many people do not realize the harm the 2i grains of caffeine in the average cup of coffee does to many users, until they try a 10 days change to POSTUM Postum satisfies the desire for a hot table drink, and its users generally sleep better, feel better, smile oft en er and enjoy life more. A fair trial off coffee and on Postum shows "There's a Reason 9