Jasper Weekly Courier, Volume 36, Number 17, Jasper, Dubois County, 5 January 1894 — Page 3

,VKBKLY COURIER. C, DO AW Iß, iPubllxlioe.

M.sPKK. INDIANA 'j'HB 31 AN OF HABIT. 11Y JKKO.MK K, .i i:uo.-m II V, U E were tli reo of us in the hinokc-room of thu Alexandra; a very good friend of mit its a lrtfh ft um who has yjW ?? knocked about the worm pretty .(! consider u l l y wli ich wou Id seem to bo no more than fair, Oi? ,. ' for before that - ft , the world had ' JWlRtMl its turn, and a pretty long turn, at knocking him ubutit-myself. "-h tn opposite corner a shy-looking, unobtrusive man, the itlitor, as we subsequently learned, of a New York Sunday paper. My friend and I weru discussing habit". (,"d and bad. -After the first few months," said m friend, "it is no more eiTort for a jtmn to be a saint than to be a sinner; it becomes a mere, matter of habit" "I know," I interrupted, "it is every wlut as easy to spring out of bed the instant von are called as to say 'all right, anil turn over for just another the minutes' snooze when you have ct into the way of it. It is no ii ore trouble not to swear than to swear if you get in thu custom of it. Toast an I waior is a delicious as champagne when you have acquired the taste for Jt. Things are also just as easy, the other way about. It is u mere question 1 f malting your choice and sticking Vi it" He agreed with nie. "Now take these cigars of mine," he ta.'i, pushing his open case towards me. Thank you," I replied, hurriedly, "I in ii-it smoking, this passage." iMi't be alarmed," he answered, "I meant merely as an argument. Now one "f these would make you ill for a v.li. " I admitted his premise. Very well," he continued. ''Sow I, n ;.'ii know, smoke them all daylong, ana ajny them. Why? I'eeanse I have pot into the habit. Years ayo, when I Mas a young man, I smoked expensive Haranas. I found that I was mining nr. self. It was absolutely necessary that I should take to a cheaper weed. I was living in ltclgium at the time, ai a friend showed me these. I don't know what they are probably cab la'i leaves soaked in guano they taittti to me like, that, at first but they were cheap, liuying them by the t"u, they cost mo three a pemvy. I iW.enniued to liko them, and started v. th ne a day. It was terrible work, 1 a-lmit; but, as I said to myself, nothing could be worse than the Hnv anas themselves had been in the be pinning. Smoking is an acquired taste, anil it must be as easy to learn to like one flavor as another. I persevered, and j conquered, Hefore the year was over 1 could think of them without loathimr. at the end of two I could smoko them vithmit positive, discomfort. Now 1 prefer them to any other brand on the market Indeed, a good cigar dhv cjrrees with me." I suggested it might have been less pa.tiful to have given up smoking ul together. ' 1 did think of it," he replied, "hut a man who doesn't smoke alwavs seems to tue had company. There is some tiling very sociable about smoke." i r . . ne leant back and pulled great emus in thu air, lining the small den with an odor suggestive of bllgo water anil cemeteries. "I knew one man," lie continued, "'"Mm.iu regular .Mrs. caudle oi a w fe. All day long she talked to him w at him or of him, and at night he Hi: WovKflO WAS A. It AUA 8SINO AKKA11L Ml asleep to the rising and falling '"hythin of what she thought about him. At last she died nnd his friends congratulated him, telling him that now iw oni enjoy peace. Hut it was the peace of the desert and the man did not nJoy it, For two and twentv years lw v"5eo had filled the house, penetrated through the conservatory and 'teil in faim shrilly waves of sound nd the garden and out in the road wyond. The silence now pervading ' noro frightened and disturbed in. ij, ie place was no longer home Ii ... l" in m. k insult, the long winter evenings 7.rVafhl's bealdo the lliekering lire, Alliight he could not sleep. Tor hours would He tossing restlessly, his ears filing fr Uus accustomcil soothinp w of invective, , !,'AJ1'' ho. would cry bitterly to himit Is the old story; we never k now the value of a thing until we "ablöst it' tt il'0, ffnw iU' Tho doctor dosed him it.. . , ;p,l,'r Inniffhts In vain. At last rH i V hlm MwMly that his life dei. , , ' !lpon 1,is Anilin 'mother helpSp ttnd wllllnK lo na hlm 10 nJi.!iVre, Woru PlcntJ' of wives in tho 1 s borhood of the typo he wanted; "ie unmarried women were, of ne

cessity, inexperienced, nnd his health was such that hu could not afford tlte time to train them. "Kortuiintely. just as despair was about to tahe possession of him, u ,,lM died In tho next parish, literallv talked to death, tho gossips said, by Ids wife. He obtained an introduction and called upon her the day after tho funeral.' She was a cantankerous old woman, and the wooing was a harassing affair, but his heart was in his work, and beforu bi.v months were gone he had won her for his own. "She proved, however, but a poor substitute. The spirit was willing, but the eh was weak. She had neither that command of language nor of wind that had distinguished her rival! From

his favorite seat at thu bottom of the garden ho could not hear her at all; so he had his chair brought up into the conservatory. It was all right for him there so long as she continued to abuse him; but every now and then, iust as he was gutting comfortably settled down with his pipe mid his newspaper, she would suddenly stop, "lie would drop Ids paper and sit ...-.n..i.nK im ii irouoieii, anxious expression. " 'Are you there, dear?' hu would call out, after awhile. "'Yes, I'm here, where do you think I am, you old fool'.'' she would gasp back, in an exhausted voice. "His face would brighten at the sound of her voice, 'tlo 'on, dear,' he would answer; 'I'm listening. 1 like to hear you talk.' "liut the poor woman was utterly pumped out and had not so much as a snort left. ' "Then he would shake his head sadly. 'No, she hasn't poor dear Susan's How of words,' lie would say. 'Ah, what a woman that was!' "At night she would do her best, but it was a lame and halting performance by comparison. After rating him for little over three-quarters of an hour, she would sink back upon j.hc pillow and want to go asleep, but lie would shake her gently by the shoulder. " 'Yts, dear, he would say, 'you were speaking about Jane, and tho way I kept looking at her during lunch.' "It's extraordinary," concluded my friend, lighting a fresh cigar, "what creatures of habit we are." "Very." I replied. "1 knew a man who told tall stories till when he told a true one nobody believed it." "Ah, that was a very sad case," said my friend. "Speaking of habit," said the unobtrusive man in t'he corner, "I can tell you a true story that I'll bet my bottom dollar you won't believe." "Haven't got a bottom dollar, but I'll bet you half a sovereign I do," replied my friend, who was of a sporting turn. "Who shall be judge'.'" "I'll take your word for it " said the unobtrusive man, and started straight away. "He was a Jeirerson man, this man. I'm going to tell you of," lie began, "lie was bom in the town, and fof forty-seven years lie never slept a night outside it. lie was a most respectable man, a dry-salter from nine to four, and a Presbyterian in his leisure moments, lie said that a good life merely meant good habits. He rose at seven, had family prayer at half-past seven, breakfa-stat eight, got to his business at nine, had his horse brought around to the oflice at four ana roue ioran nour, reacning nome at , . . i . , . i . . five, had a hath and a cup of tea. played with and read to the children (ho was a domesticated man) till half-past six, dressed and dined at seven, went round to the club and played whist till a quar ter-pasl ten, home again to evening prayer at half-past ton and bed at eleven. For twenty-five years he lived that life with never a variation. It worked into his system and became me chanical. J he church clocks were set by him. lie was used by the local as tronomers to check the sun. "One day a distant connection of his in Loudon, an East Indian merchant and an ex-lord mayor, died, leaving him sole legatee and executor. The business was a complicated one and needed management. He determined to leave his son by ins hrst wife, now a j'oung man of twenty-four, in charge at JciTerson, and to establish himself with his second family in England, and look after the East Indian business. He set out from Jefferson City on October 4 and arrived in London on thu 17th. He had been ill during the whole of the voyage, and reached the furnished house he had hired in Haywater somewhat of a wreck. A couple of days in bed, however, pulled him round, and on the Wednesday evening hu announced his intention of going into the city the next day to seo to his affairs. On Thursday he did not wake till one in the atternoon. ins wne said that she had not disturbed him, think ing thu sleep would do him good, lie admitted that perhaps it hail. Anyhow, he felt very well and got up and dressed himself. He did not like the Idea of beginning his Hrst day by neglecting a religions duty and, his wife agreeing with him, they assembled the servants and the children in tho din ing-room and had family prayers at half-past one. After which ho breakfasted and set off, reaching the city about three. "His reputation for punctuality had preceded him, and surprise was everywhere expressed at his late arrival. He explained the circumstances, however, and made his appointments for the folowing day, to commence from 0::50. "Ho remained at his oflico until late and then went home, tor dinner usually his chief meal of the day ho could manage to eat only a biscuit and some fruit. Ho attributed his loss of appetite to want of his customary ride. llo was strangely unsettled all tho evening. no said he supposed no missed his game of whist, and determined to look out for some quiet, re spectable club without loss of time. At U he retired with his Wife to boil, but could not sleep. He tossed and turned and turned and tossed, but grew only moro wakeful and energetic. A little after midnight an overpowering desire

wizwi him t- jio and wish the children Kood-tilght Ho Mippod on a dressingtfwnitwi stole into the nurser. H did ii.,t intend it. but the opening of uunr awoico mein, and he was glad. He wrapped them up in a quilt, and. wig on me eilge of tho bed, tola mem moral stories till one o'clock. i hen he kissed them good night, bidding them he good and go to sleep, and, feeling painfully hungry, crept uTuurs, wnero no niaile a heartv itii 1 1. .. i " mmi oceisieaic pie anil eucutuher in the back kitchen. ..it . , . . . . . . i iv re.uirncu in neu, lueung more peaceful, yet still could not sleen: so lay thinking alxiut hit business utlairs till live, when lie dropped off. "At one o'clock to the minute ho uwolce. His wife told him slie had made every endeavor to rouse him, but in vain. J he man was vexed and Irri tated. If he had not been a very good man indeed I believe he would have sworn, ino same programme was re peated again on Thursday and again he reached the city at three. "This state of things went on fort month. This man fought against him self, but was unable to alter himself. l.very morning or, rather, every afternoonat one he awoke. Every night thi;v TAUoirr him i'okkk. nt one he crept down to the kitchen and foraged for foo'd. Everv morning at five he fell asleep. i.t ,t . . ... ne couio not understand it, no body could understand it. The doctor treated him for water on the brain, hypnotic irresponsibility and hereditary lunacy. Meanwhile his business siilfered and. his health grew worse. He seemed to be living uoside down. His days seemed to have neither begin ning nor end, but to be all midd! mere was no time ior exercise or recreation. When he began to feel cheerful and sociable everybody was asleep. "One day, tion came. by chance, the cxpiana Jlis cider daughter was preparing her home studies after dinner. " 'What time is it now in New York?" sne asKcu, loomng up irom her ge ography book. , " 'New York,' said the father, glancing nt his watch; 'let me see. It's just ten now, and there's a little over four and a half hours' difference. Oh, about .5:30 in the afternoon!' " 'Then in Jefferson,' said the moth er, 'it would bo still earlier, wouldn't it?' "'Yes,' replied the girl, examining the map, 'JefTerson is nearly two de grees further west.' " 'Two degrees,' mused the father; 'and there's fortv minutes to a derrt. . . - That would make it now, at the pres ent moment, In Jefferson ' "He leaped to his feet with a cry: " 'I've got it,' ho shouted; '1 see it-' " 'Seo what?' asked his wife, alarmed. " 'Why, it's four o'clock in Jefferson, and just time for mv ride. That's what I'm wanting.' "There could be no doubt about it For twenty-five years he had lived by clock-work. He had changed his longitude, but not himself. The habits of a quarter of a cenutry were not to be shifted at tho bidding of the sun. "He examined the problem in all its bearings, and decided that the only solution was for him to return to the order of his old life. Ho saw the difficulties in his waj but they were less than those he was atpresentenconntering. He was too formed by habit to adapt himself to circumstances. Circumstances must adapt themselves to him. "He fixed his oflice hours from three till ten, leaving himself at 1::J0. At ten he mounted his horse and went for a canter in the Row, and on very dark nights he carried a lantern. News of it got abroad and crowds would assemble to see him ride past "He dined at one o'clock in the morning and afterwards strolled down to his club. Ho tried to discover a quiet, respectable club where tho members were willing to play whist till four in the morning, but failing had been compelled to join a small S'jho gambling hell where they taught him poker. Tho place was occasionally raided by the police, but, thanks to his respectable appearance, ho generally managed to escape. "At 4:30 he returned homo and woke the family up for evening prayers. At five he went to bed and slept like a top. "The city chaffed him and Hayswater shook its head over him. but that he did not mind. The only thing that really troubled him was loss of spiritual communion. At live o'clock on Sunday afternoons ho felt he wanted chapel but had to do without it At seven he ate his simple midday meal. Eleven he had te.i and muffins, and at midnie-ht he becan to crave airain for hymns and sermons. At three he had a broad and cheese supper and retired early at four a. in., feeling sad and unsatisfied. "He was essentially a man of habit." The unobtrusive stranger ceased, and we sat gazing in silence at tho ceiling. At length my friend rose, and taking half a sovereign from Ids iocket, laid It on the table, and, linking his arm in mine, wont out with me upon the deck Detroit Free Press. Cieser did not say: "Et tu, Brut." Eye witnesses to the assassination deposed that "he died fighting, butslleat. like a wolf."

THE TARIFF BILL. A Carrfulljr nn! CoHM'lentlowlj' Drafted Document. Tho tariff bill reported by tho commltteo on ways and means Is in ono sense a moderate measure; In another sense a radical measure. Compared with the tariffs under which we lived and prospered for many years beforu the civil war, it leaves us still with a very high degree of protection. Compared with tho tariffs of countries liko France and (lermany, in which there has been of late years so distinct a revival of protection, it is also a strongly protectionist measure. Compared with tho completely non-protective tariff of England, its duties are immoderativly high. Hut compared with the Meivhiley tariff act, it is, in ono rcsneet at least, a rndical measure. It drops tho policy of indiscriminate protection. It rests upon the principle that, after pH, there are some things which the country is capable of producing, but which it wi.l nevertheless permit to be freely imported. So far as the great mass of manufactured commodities is concerned, the changes in duty arc not incisive; but the free admission of some important raw materials marks a radical change in policy. Far and away tho most important of these changes is that by which raw wool is to be admitted "free of duty. For thirty years we have been imposing heavy duties on any and every quality of wool, and wo have been promised by domestic wool-growers, or at least by their spokesmen in politics, that they would be able to supply all the wool of every quality that the country wanted. They have never dune so; in fact, conditions of soil and climate make it impossible that they should do so. They furnish us with an abundant and sufficiently cheap supply of wool of medium quality. Hut they are not able to produce fine wools in any quantity, and they do not find it worth while to produce very coarse wool nt all. Under theso circumstances tho bill wisely puts wool upon the free list, and so gives tho American people tho benefit of the lino quality of Australian wool and of the extreme cheapness of the coarse wool of Russia and East India. The free admission of wool is the most important political change in the bill. For many years the duty on wool has been made to do service in states like Ohio and Michigan as bringing to the farmer his share of the benefits of protection. It required the courage of President Cleveland to face the situation boldly, and to declare for free wool even though Ohio was a doubtful btate. This he did in his message, now passed into history, of December, 1SS7, when he took that uuilinching attitude on the tariff question which has brought his party to tho position in which it now is. If there is any one part of their programme to which the democrats arc committed it is the free admission of wool; and this part of the bill may be expected to reach tho stage of enactment if any part of it does. Once made, the change unquestionably will be found a beneficial one. Tho great massof the wool-growers will find themselves in jural to uo appreciable degrcej the manufacturers will have their material cheaper; and the consumers will have better and cheaper clothes. So far as manufacturers are concerned, most of tho changes are from duties that were prohibitory to duties that will Iks somewhat less prohibitory. Such is tho case with most silk goods, cotton goods, glass-ware and chinaware. On woolens there is : nore important change. They arc aui.dtted at the simple duty of 40 per cent, which is to be reduced ono per cent each year for fivo years, until finally the duty on them reaches the definite rate of 35 percent This change is the counterpart of the free admission of wool, which entailed a complete removal of the present high and complicated duties on woolen goods, and the sub stitution of a simple and comparatively moderate ad valorem duty. In almost any other country duties of .T and 40 per cent., coupled with free raw material, would bo thought to give moro than adequate protection. Wo arc continent that they will be found to give all tho protection that the woolen industry of the United States now needs, nnd that they will cheapen goods to the mass of the consumers without seriously endangering the prosperitj of the manufacturers. On the whole, the bill is carefully and conscientiously drafted. It faces the situation boldly, apnlies the knife shaqdy to some excrescence of a protective growth, and redeems in a substantial way the promises under which the democratic party came into power. Yet it makes no such radical or farreaching changes as will disturb the great mass of the manufacturing industries. The country can easily ac commodate itself to such changes, nnd within a few months after its enactncnt, few will advocate a return to the existing order of things. Harper's Weekly. Manufactured Calamity. New England will bo able to take ;are ox itself against tho danger of spontaneous combustion in imported coal. There is another kind of com bustion going on just now that is not as spontaneous. It is tho combustion which undertakes to heat public opinion against tariff reform. A portion of this is clearly manufactured, and to a largo extent bya class of men who would be more patriotically employed In the legitimate manufacturing business which is their specialty. The worst kind of calamity howling is that which lUiidcrtakes to depress business at the present time, llusincss needs encouragement in the interest of us all, and most in that of tho laboring people. It is rank cruelty to aid in de pressing it by throwing men out of work unless there is absolute necessity for so doing, and he who engages in this assumes a heavy responsibility. Hosten Herald. The manufacturers who threaten to reduce wages because of the Wilson bill will fiud by reference to their books tliat they did not rai wages because of the McKinley bllL Detroit Free Preaa.

POLITICAL TRICKERY. Efforts of Hieb Tariff OrgitB to Humbug, tin, Farmen. The high-tariff press is ttiH trying to "fool tho farmer" by telling him that a reduction of the high McKinley duties on certain farm products would put him in tho poorhouse. A Vermont paper says that "all pver tho-tato livo' stock may bo bought at panic prices,'" and that "good young horses trained to work are quoted in many localities at ?30 to f 10 per head." Low prices for other products are mentioned, and then the farmers are asked "to figure out at their leisure" how much more doplorablu their condition will be under tho tariff proposed by the Wilson committee. Wo recently pointed out that many of the duties on agricultural products, such as wheat and corn and, pork and lard, were shams from either a protective or a revenue point of vie w and were known to be shams by tho tariff makers who imposed them. Let us see what thero is to be said about' these "good young horses" that are quoted in Vermont at "530 to 140 per head."

We suspect that our contemporary in Vermont is not familiar with tho provisions of the tariff concerning horses. Tho duty is 30 for a horse worth less than $150 and 30 per cent, for a horso worth that sum or more. How has it come about that under the benign influence of this high tariff (the duty was very largely increased by the McKinley act) the price of "good"young horses" has fallen in Vermont to 530 or $40? And if this very high duty did not prevent the price from falling below the price prevailing under the old tariff in i$S9 or 1S90, how does our contemporary know that tho restoration of the old duty of Ü0 per cent, as provided by the Wilson bill, would prevent the price from rising to the old figures? The official reports show how much the horses imported from Canada aro worth. The average value was 102 in :S0J; in 1SÜ1 it was $102; and in 1SS0, a year before the duty was increased by the McKinley act, it was fl)'J. So it will bo seen that the change of duty has had practically no effect upon the import trade in horses from Canada, so far as tho value of the animals is concerned. The Canadian horse that was brought into the country last year, liko tho Canadian horso that was imported four years ago, is a horse worth about $103. If "good young horses" can be bought in Vermont for 830 or $-10, why should anyone in that state look forward with alarm to an impending "flood" of Canadian horses worth $100 apiece before the duty is paid? The duty at present would increase the cost to $130, and the Wilson duty would make it St'20. Even if tho prico o( the native "good young horse" should bo increased from "$30 or S40" to $100, it would still be lower than tho cost of the imported Canadian horse. Tho truth is that tho high duty on Canadian horses is a burdensome tax upon farmers in many parts of New England who have been accustomed to buy horses from that country for use in farmv.'ork. Our contemporary in Vermont also professes to bo depressed by the probability that the enactment of the Wilson bill will cause tho New England market to be "crowded with Canadian grain." This is wholly insincere. It is tho grain from our oxvn western states with which tho New England farmer must compete, and not the grain of Canada. It is the western corn that is selling now at Chicago for 35 cents a bushel, N. Y. Times. COMMENTS OF THE PRESS. Mr, Cleveland's motto of stricl economy in all the departments and his advice of the same nature to congress is as good democracy as was ever conceived. Trim down the appropria tions and there will be less embarrassment about devices for raising revenues. St Louis Globe-Democrat -Thirty-six years have passed sinco a tariff bil. was presented by a major ity party to encourage trade and production. Now we have one as genuine a proposition of reform as was ever presented by practical statesmen who had weighed all the consequences to government and to the complex interests of a people. St Louis Republic. Delay in tho passago of the new tariff bill will be as injurious to the business interests of the country as was the delay in the passage of tho repeal bill at the extra session. The markets at the present time, on account of the high protective tariff laws which havo been In force for tho last thico years, are completely under the control of trusts and monopolies. Kansas City Times. Somo of tho protected manufacturers are now threatening that they will take their establishments to Europe if tho Wilson bill becomes a law. It is true that theso bluffers could save their heavy campaign assessments by getting on the other side. Hut how about the workingman to whom their hearts go out with such unctuous and yearning solieitude? Detroit Freo Tress. Whatever President Cleveland's motives in his courso on the Hawaiian matter, they do not lie in a desiro merely to discredit thu course of his predecessor. No man was ever moro considerate of a political opponent than Cleveland, tho truth being that one of his characteristics is a disposition to bo moro considerate of his political oppo nents than of his political associates,--Louisville Courier-Journal. Shortly before President Harri son gave way to President Cleveland Secretary of Stato I-oster wroto to Sec retary of the Navy Tracy: "You will observe that Mr. Stevens' action is commended so far as it lies within tho scope of standing instructions to tho legation, and is disavowed so far as it may appear to overstep that limit by setting tho authority of tho United States above that of the Hawaiian gov ernment," Republican journals that havo been itilfyir.g tho president for logically confirming the disavowal, according to his ability under tho circumstances, aro evidently unconscious that they aro In fact denouncing President Harrison and casting, so far aa thev can, odium on him in relation to Stevens' courae at Honolulu. Chicago U aiu.

FASHION LETTER.

$tyllh Street Continue Faahloti for tli Codling SprlliKKastrr Cuwhii. ISlwcial Xew YorU Correspondcnca.1 Among tho countless stylish street costumes this season are those of striped camel's hair made witli a circular skirt with a deep skirted "York" coat above, formed of dark green or dark Venottan brown cloth lined with heavy surah,, slightly wadded on tho shoulders, and furnished with a glove fitting chamois under jacket to ho worn beneath the coat. Dark moss green cloth forms a handsome coat that accompanies a skirt of striped camel's hair in colors of brown, red and gold. Gay cblorcd cloth coats of varied styles continue" to bo a feature of present fashions. Ono in silver blue with black fur and black braiding is worn with a bell skirt of black- watered silk shot witli silver bluo und bordered with fur and rows of silk gimp dotted with cut jet A close fitting round waisted Russian coat with full skirts beamed on, is furnished with a llaring capo collar und revcrs with narrow fur edgings. A broad band of bias velvet encircles the waist and fastens with a jet buckle at tho left side. On other coatH this band is omitted, revealing the tailor finlshedi seam where the skirt and wais,t portion join. This basquo finish has a moro elderly effect than the princess style, without hip seams, the forms cut in continuous lengths. Many of the light-colored coats for spring will show short vests of small patterned but rather brilliant Maria Antoinette brocade. For the present, dress skirts remain circular shaped or narrowly gored; close-fitting about the top and flaring moderately at tho bottom. The rauch-talked-aboutand writ-tcn-about skirts of five to seven yards in width havo ceased to be iho fashion. To Iks quite exact they have never been the fashion, and practically never existed. Regarding skirt trimmings, although tho graduating decorations extending up on the skirt arc still in vogue, tho majority of spring gowns will show a low skirt trimming, and this will bo moro especially the case with handsome dress toileU elaborately decorated as to bodice; and while many of the new corsages aro round, there appears to bo a renewed tendency to point the corsage somewhat, which is of advantage to all but slender women. This may reduce tho number of folded belts, girdles and dlrectoire scarf effects which aro as yet at the height of their popularity, being especially becoming to slim figures. Sleeves continue to fall away from the shoulders, drooping toward the elbow whero they meet tho close forearm, or stop short altogether, if the sleeves are to be half lone. Tho rounded, half-open necks of evening toilets aro rivaled by the pompadour shapes the trimming of which holds on each side tho epaulettes that fall above the sleeve puffs or tho circular ungathered shoulder cap. There aro shown among spring samples many pretty all-wool ropped fabrics less expensive than the French wool bengaline and tricots of tho winter, that will make stylish and really elegant costumes. Tho greens, golden olives, browns, grays and diver blues in these materials are particularly attractive; and for gay houso drosses are handsome dyes in biege, beet root red. old rose and Persian violet These soft reps are forty inches wide aud cost seventy-five cents a yard. u. ,, . Pretty "costume capos" will, .com plete many of tho Easter and-post-Ea-stcr gowns of silk, wool and silk and wool mixtures, nnd although thu cape may match the gown in color, it may often happen that it is of a different and lighter fabric for example, a costume cape of black watered silk with jet drop trimmings may have a collarette of black silk muslin thickly gathered, and edged with narrow ecru laceforming a round cape at the back, aud descending in cascades to tho bottom of the front A simpler costume capo Is made of marquise brown repped wool, soft nnd silky as bengaline, and matching the gown in kind. Tho capo ia composed of a circular flounce gathered to a round well-fitted yoke. The yoko and standing Medici collar ara covered with fiat biso or ecru guipure, and thu yoke is framed in a rucho of No. 9 ribbon. A wider ribbon is twined about the lower edge of the collar and formed into a bow at tho back. Panels, overskirts, slight draperies and triplo skirts on bollfihaped foundations, all appear on now costumes from Paris. Uluo serge and Kneiting dresses with triple skirts havo black moire shirt waists with full sleeves of bluo and good-sized triple costume cape of the wool goods to be added for tho street Tho edges of lxth crapo and flounces havo fivo rows of machine stitching as a finish, and thu icapo has a box-plaited ruche of black moire ribbon around the neck. The "Princess May" corsago will bo a popular spring model on gowns cither simple or elaborate. The dlrectoire ends on many of these corsages arc lengthened to reach the skirt hem after thy are knotted, llrctelles reappear on fresh gowns and toilets. They are not likely to be abandoned very soon, as, whether gathered, plait od, notched or plain, they impart th approved drooping effect and give an appearance of breadth to the shoul Mrs and alanderntM to the waist TLkix DUXKAJL