Jasper County Democrat, Volume 13, Number 9, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 7 May 1910 — Home Course In Domestic Science [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

Home Course In Domestic Science

XVl.—Treatment of Floors and Windows.

By EDITH G. CHARLTON,

In Charge of Domestic Economy, lowa State College. Copyright. 1910, by American Press Association.

A FTER the plan of rooms has /\ been decided upon and the 1. walls have been decorated with colors and materials in accordance with the governing principles of light, harmony and general fitness the next point to consider in house furnishing is the floor. The new bouse of modern design will probably have floors of hardwood, and some varieties are so beautiful in themselves that the necessary treatment is very-sim-■ple. A priming or filling coat of shellac to preserve the wood and cover up ■cracks, followed by one or more coats of wax rubbed down until it has the beautifully smooth, unpolished surface so much liked at the present time, makes the best floor finish. A very good preparation for waxing is made as follows: Melt one pound of wax slowly over hot water. When quite soft remove from fire and beat into it one pint of turpentine. If a soft finish is desired add one cupful of paraflin oil before using. When ready to apply have the wax melted and the floor free from dust. If there are any stains on the floor remove them before applying the wax. A strong solution of oxalic acid will remove black or almost any discoloration from wood, but it will also remove the staining substance, and this must be restored before waxing. When the floor is perfectly clean moisten a piece of flannel with the soft wax and rub the floor all over, using more wax as necessary. Let the wax remain on the floor for an hour or more, then polish with* a stiff woolen cloth, piece of old carpet or soft leather or a weighted brush made for the purpose. Do not use water on waxed or oiled floors unless you wish to remove all the finish and replace it with a new one. The daily care need be nothing more than sweeping with a soft hair brush, then wiping with a dust mop. Once a week all, spots should be removed with turpentine and the floor wiped with a cloth saturated with the waxing substance. An oak stain for pine or whitewood

floors wty maae as follows: Two cups of boiled oil, one and one-half cups of turpentine, three tablespoonfuls of raw umber, three tablespoonfuls of whiting. Mix very thoroughly. A good cherry stain is made of the same ingredients, substituting burnt sienna for the raw umber and using a little less whiting. When floors have been given one or two coats of stain they may be waxed according to the directions given above. Carpets and Rugs. Old floors can be painted and then oiled, or they may be treated with any desired floor preparations that are on the market. The hardwood or painted floor is much preferable to any carpet,. though to make the furnishing of a room complete some'covering is necessary. This would better be one good sized rug or several smaller ones, depending on the size and character of the room. The color of the rugs should harmonize with the color used on the wall or in draperies, but it should be considerably stronger In tone than dither or both the others. One large rug is more satisfactory for a dining room than several small ones, and the room which has walls decorated with horizontal lines, as it may be to give the effect of lowering the ceiling, should have a single rug on the floor; otherwise such a room will have a patchy appearance. Most people have learned that for sanitary reasons the floor covering, whatever it may , be, should not extend from wall to wall nor be securely tacked down, to be removed only once a year or less frequently. Yet there are some housekeepers who cling to the old fashioned carpet without realizing the dangers there may be from germs thriving in the accumulated dust. The artistic house should be healthful also, and this will be largely accomplished when there is just as little opportunity as possible for germs to develop in it. Sunlight, fresh air and freedom from dust give the best assurance that disease germs, are not in our, homes, while thick carpets, wool draperies and heavily curtained windows are likely breeding places for them

Nowadays these things are not conBidcred "either artistic or beautiful. Draperies and Window Curtains. Femininity loves Soft draperies much more than the average man dislikes them, so as long as, woman is the presiding genius in .the home she will havethem at windows and doors. Certainly they do add the finishing touch to a home, the final touch without which a room never seems quite complete, no matter how. well chosen are its appointments. But a word of caution is necessary in regard to draperies both for artistic and sanitary reasons. Window ctfrtains should not be so heavy or numerous that they shut out air and sunlight. Wool draperies and portieres should’ be avoided in rooms that are to be much used, because wool fabrics catch and hold dust more than any other material. For living rooms and dining room silk or linen draperies are the best when expense need not be figured too closely, but there is such a big variety of cotton fabrics displaying beauty in both design and coloring that one need not buy the more costly silks unless one prefers them. In color portieres and draperies should harmonize with both walls and floors and should be a tone raidway between the two. The long folds of the straight hanging drapery are much more beautiful than the looped and festooned arrangements which were popular a few years ago and which are still used by some professional upholsterers. Window curtains should come just to the lower edge of the casement and not to the floor or spread out a yard or two on the floor, after the fashion of recent years. A single pair of window curtains made of thin material, either plain or trimmed and hung in long straight lines, with side curtains to match the portieres, is the best trimming for any window from every point of view. If the window Is very wide, making more than one pair of curtains necessary, there may be an overdrapery from the top as well as the sides. This should not extend down too far.

In selecting draperies keep two points firmly fixed in mind—first, don’t use flowered drapery with a flowered wall and don’t buy heavy, unwashable hangings for bedrooms. Such materials are entirely out of harmony with the whole idea of bedroom simplicity. For a flowered or much figured wall no curtains are prettier than, plain white muslin or net made with wide hems or finished with a ruffle. For a bedroom with plain wall decoration a white curtain with a flowered inner curtain draped at the side of the window Is very effective. Furniture and Where to Put It, One important rule to observe in buying furniture for any part of the house is that it be of good quality, built on simple lines and suitable for the service it is Intended to give. The living room should have comfortable, substantial furniture—not too much of it, yet enough to meet the requirements of the family. The table should be large enough and strong enough to support the weight of the books, magazines and other articles which may be brought to it. The frail table, which looks as if it might go to pieces if subjected to greater weight than that of a vase of flowers or a book, may be permissible in the reception room, but Is entirely out of,place in the living room, where the family has its several pleasures and interests. The chairs, too, in this room should be comfortable, strong and sufficiently varied in size and style to suit every one from grandfather to the little child. Furniture for the living room, especially the chairs, should not be cumbersome. There can be strength without unnecessary weight, such as is often found in the so called “mission” furniture. The lines and general composition of this kind of furniture are good, and the popularity of the style has done much to revive simplicity in furnishing, but occasionally we find pieces that are unwieldy and awkward tomove.

In the dining room the same rules should be followed; also adding to it that in this room the furniture should be limited to that required for serving and partaking of meals. A dining table, six or eight chairs, a sideboard or buffet and a serving table are really all the pieces necessary In the room, and unless there is an unusual amount of space to spare no more should be added. If possible the furniture in the dining room should be of one style and one finish. Odd pieces spoil the attractiveness, of the room. It is a good idea when practicable to have the woodwork in the dining room and its furniture match. For instance, a room finished in old English oak may have old English furniture, and this, with a dull yellow or pomegranate wall decoration, is most effective in a north room. Do hot crowd any room with superfluous furniture. There should be enough chairs, sufficient tables and one or more comfortable couches, but exaggerated creations in the way of seats, centerpieces and w’hatnots are not in good taste. The bedroom furniture should be chosen with an eye to fitness and comfort rather than fashion. A plain brass or enameled iron bedstead, dressing table or bureau, small table, one or two chairs, a washstand and a couch are ample for any room the prime use of which Is rest and sleep. I would include a couch—a simple homemade affair will fill every requirement—ln every bedroom. It tempts one for the ten minute nap during the day which might never be thought of were there only a trim white bed in the room, and this little rest means added years to one’s life. , The bed is the principal furniture in the sleeping room- and should represent the largest amount of money. Have homemade dressers and tabled If you must do without every luxury If ieed be, but have a good bed.

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