Jasper County Democrat, Volume 5, Number 14, Rensselaer, Jasper County, 12 July 1902 — HISTORIC ACCOUNT OF FRENOH LICK SPRINGS [ARTICLE+ILLUSTRATION]

HISTORIC ACCOUNT OF FRENOH LICK SPRINGS

BY MAJOR JOHN R. SIMPSON.

Paper road at the annual summer meeting of tue Indiana Democratic Editorial Association at French Lick Springs.

To tell of FTench Lick and its varied history is far more than I shall be able to do it in the time alotted; Indeed, I doubt if It is in the power of any living man to do so. When this task was assigned me I fould but revert to the scenes that crowded themselves upon my memory the first time I saw the Columbia river, that river that Bryant so beautifully and fitly described as “The Gem of the Ocean.” It was on a beautiful, balmy, July morning when I beheld that aweinspiring scene. Down deep into the lava beds of that wild and weird land

tha river had cut Its way; and as our train thundered down its left bank toward the placid waters of the peaceful Pacific, the river and its surroundings gave much food for thought The cliff on either side towered hundreds of feet above our heads; the river Just to our right rushed madly by miniature islands, rugged stones, and over numerous cascades; now turning itself upon its edge, as it were, with the thunderings of Niagara, rushes through a narrow defile in the somber bed of lava that once contested its onward course to the sea; then again as if some “fair god” had sung to it a sweet hillaby, it Bpread itself out like a sea of glass, upon which the sunlight skipped and danced with apparent glee. When I had feasted my eyes, looking upon the scenes with unspeakable admiration, and they had told me of the legends of this wonder land, then It was that I said to myself: "Would to God that these wood and cliffs, rocks and dales, could speak—what a revelation they could and would reveal.” So, today, as we stand here viewing this matchless landscape with its hills and rocks and rivulets, remembering that we are standing in sight of the old Indian trail leading from the far West to the falls of the Ohio, with Indian battlegrounds and burial places almost In sight, I can but wish that nature had a language we might Interpret, and thereby learn the mysteries that were once associated with this place. But as I cannot call to my assistance the gods of the prehistoric race that once occupied this country, I am compelled to give the Jiistory as I learned it from the fathers who penetrated and felled these forests, braved the dangers of those early days and made it possible for us to enjoy the hospitality of our genial host, Thomas Taggart, and in this most magnificent hotd It is probable that the first mention by white men of this locality was made by Gen. George Rogers Clark in his memoirs of his famous exploration of Kashas!:la and Vincennes. In speaking of French Lick he said it was a great resort for deer and buffalo, and that they were exceedingly tame. Karly In the eighteenth century a French military post had been established at Vincennes, and at the time of the Revolution in and around old Fort Sackville (Vincennes) there was a strong ami well settled community, and as this settlement was but flftv miles /due west from here and old Pluto being within a mile of the Indian trail, it will he no stretch of Imagination to suppose that some of the more venturesome of those early settlers at Vincennes had pushed as far into the wilderness as French Lick, and. finding here what was for many years supposed to.he a rich deposit of saline matter, lo- ated here to spake salt. The fact of the often repeated vlsltß of the French to this locality and that the door, buffalo and other arlmals came here to drink and lick the saline matter, it Is easy to see whence came the name. “French Lick.” The government early recognized the probable wealth of these waters and therefore reserved the first twelve sections of Township 1 north and Sections 13 to 3d, except Sootlon 16 of Township 2 north, all In Range 2 west, as saline lands and for the sole use of the people of the state. This act was approved by the president April 19, 1816. In 1826 the general assembly authorized Thomas F. Chapman of Orange county to bore an artesian well here, this well to be 200 feet in depth, 2t4 inches In diameter and not to exceed In cost S2XO per perpendicular foot. It was bored about 30 or 40 feet due south of Pros-

erpine. No salt was found. In January. 1529, the legislature of the state Demoralised congress and a law was enacted authorizing the state to sell the reservation. Sometime early in the '3o’s these lands were sold at public auction, probably in 1832, and Dr. ■William A- Bowles became the purchaser. Other than the French, Joel Charles was the first settler; locating near the springs, probably in 1809 or 10. During the years when that wily old chieftain Tecumseh started the Indians into frequent acts of hostility a fort or blockhouse was established and manned with rangers as near as can now be ascertained, upon the very spot where now stands the superb and commodious office of this princely hotel. Joel Charles for some time lived with the rangers in this fort. This fort was maintained by the government until about 1815, when it was abandoned. November 11, 1811. is the date of the first entry of land made in this township. It was made by Joel Charles, the first settler, and was 160 acres in Section 6, Township 1 north and Range 1 west, less than three miles due east from where we now stand. Upon tf this land Charles built a home, and to this day the descendants of this early adventurer are the owners of the land. At the home of this man In 1817 an election for justice of the peace was held. Joshua Nichols received five votes, Adley Campbell six votes, and Joel Charles thirteen votes, making a grand total of twenty-four votes in all. Among the early settlers of this section were Judge Samuel Cobb, William Pinnick, Henry Dougherty, Adla Campbell, Joshua Nichols and others. These early settlers endured many privations. The country was wild and weird and they were compelled to cut roads through the then almost Impenetrable forest before they could get their rude household effects to their ruder frontier cabin. For some time the flour, sugar, coffee and like commodities used by them were brought on pack horses from the falls of the Ohio, now known as Louisville. In 1815 Thomas Hopper killed two bears on the very spot where is now situated the beautiful and picturesque town of Paoli. William Huddleson when a lad killed a bear near Paoli and hauled it home on a Yankee sled —two hickory poles tied together with hickory thongs and fastened to the horse by means of hickory bark. This is what was then denominated a Yankee sled. Wild hogs, wild turkeys and bears supplied these rugged frontiersman with meat, and many interesting stories of their early hunts are told by their descendants to this day. Among those who figured most conspicuously among those early hunters are Captain James Willson, commonly known in those days as “Bear Jim Willson,” Thomas Hopper and David Hudelson. In 1813 the first store, consisting of a stock of ammunition and supplies for hunters, was established, and soon after the purchase of this land by Bowles, perhaps in 1835 or ’36. he formed a partnership with John Hungate and they began the sale of general merchandise here. The first postoffice was established about this time, but was soon discontinued; and was not re-established until 1865, when Dr. Samuel Ryan became Its first postmaster. The milling of this section was for years done with horse mills, a large Inclined wheel being the power, the neighbors bringing their horses and cattle with their grain to the mill. The horses and cattle were placed on the wheel, the wheel freed, and by their weight the power was obtained, the wheel going round and round beneath their feet, and this turned the stones that ground the grain. A memorable incident occurred in the field just south of where now stands this well-arranged and comnipdious building. This incident was the killing of William Charles in the spring of 1818 by the Indians. Charles hacf lived In the fort with the rangers, he had a wife and one child. As there had been some suspicion that the Indians were again aroused to hostility, the faithful wife of Mr. Charles was on duty at the fort watching while her husband was plowdng in the field. The rangers, not anticipating any immediate danger, were near Old Pluto, shooting at a mark. The Indian stealthily crept from the wood, keeping a huge poplar stump' standing in the field between him and his unsuspecting victim, and from which the fatal arrow was shot which felled Charles to the ground. The Indian ran and attempted to scalp his victim, but by the heroic efforts of Charles and the screams of his faithful wife, he was foiled in his attempt, but not until lie had severely wounded Charles In the head, from which he died in a few days. His heartbroken wife, who witnessed the awful tragedy, continued to wear the hat he had on at the time, and was so shocked and stricken that she died of a broken heart. They were both buried on the knoll Just south of the old fort. Perhaps as early as 1839 Ilowlea erected a two-story frame building on the present site, but it had no occupant. as It was not finished until 1845 or ’46, when Dr. John A. Lane, a genuine “down-easter,” who was at the time traveling in the interest of Dr. Brandeth of “Brandeth Pill” notoriety, chanced to stop for the night with Mr. Hungate, who resided near the springs. Dr. Lane, who was a man of quick perception and foresight, coupled with Indomitable energy, became enamored of the place and in 1846 leased the springs of Bowles for t period of five years, and in the spring of that year completed the house anil

t * - at once opened it for the accommodation of the public. My mother, Mrs. A. J. Slmpaon, was Its first guest. Lane is said to have made enough money during the life of his lease to purchase the 720 acres of land then known as the “Mile Lick,” now West Baden. Both Lane and Bowles were aggressive, stubborn and unyielding. They had many quarrels and lawsuits during the life of the lease, but Lane held possession to the very last hour of the very last day, and then paid Bowles the last instalment of rent in five and ten-cent silver pieces which he had thoroughly soaked In the waters of Old Ifluto, making them black as night. In 1864 Dr. Samuel Ryan rented the springs of Bowles for a period of fifteen years. Under his management a new impulse whs given to the business and much improvement was made. Before the expiration of this lease Bowles died and was buried Just north of the house we see standing to the left and beyond the creek on the hillside. For a year or so after Ryan gave up his lease, the representatives of the Bowles estate assumed the management and In 1880 or ’Bl 320 acres Including the springs was sold to Dr. Ryan, James M. Andrew and Hiram E. Wells for a sum something less than $16,000. Dr. Ryan soon dis-

posed of his interest to the other two, and they for a number of years successfully managed the enterprise until it was said that more than 7.000 persons visited the place annually. In September, 1887, they disposed of the springs to the French Lick Springs company, under whose management it was conducted with marked success until Aug. 5. 1901, when the present management took control. Of the unprecedented success of the French Lick Hotel Springs company, this magnificent structure, the hundreds of guests that dally throng Its spacious halls, and the universal praises the management receives from the four corners of the earth, all with one accord testify. This history would not be complete were I not to mention more particularly the first owner of these springs, Colonel William A. Bowles, and give to you some of this wonderful man’s exploits. He was of a commanding figure, large brain, a fine conversationalist, and, if he pleased, of prepossessing manners. What he purposed, right or wrong, he universally attempted to put into execution. And so in 1858 he brought from Kentucky to Orange county seven slaves, which he claimed were the property of his wife, and that he had brought them here to French Lick for their health. He was promptly indicted in seven separate Indictments and tried on one, was found guilty and fined S4O and costs. This suit he promptly appealed to the s ipreme court of the state, which without delay affirmed the derision of the lower court, and he was afterward fined a llkn sum In the other six cases. These cases at the time attracted much attention. His conduct v.’as severely criticised by the New York Tribune: and otlmr papers far and near commented on the case in no favorable terips, making much more of it than the facts warranted. The John Brown insurrection in Kansas and the Dred Beott case gave prominence to the Bowles ease, in that it attempted, as was claimed, to establish slavery on Indiana soil. This same William A. Bowles was at one time a man of great influence in the county and more than once was a representative in the state legislature. He was colonel of the Second Indiana volunteer regiment in the war with Mexico and was said to be a major general in the Sons of Liberty or Knights of the Golden Circle. In 1864 he was arrested by a company of soldiers near where we now stand, taken to Indianapolis, tried for treason, found guilty and condemned to hang. The sentence was approved, the day fixed for his execution, hut through the earnest solicitation of Governor O. P. Morton and other prominent men the sentence was commuted to imprisonment in the Ohio penitentiary at Columbus. After a time he was pardoned and sent home and resided until his death in the home which you see Just across the creek, heretofore referred to. During his confinement in the penitentiary at Columbus sn old Quaker lady from near Salem, Ind., is said to have visited him, and when introduced to him. extended her hand and said: "Friend Bowles, I am glad to see thee In this place. I hope they will keep thee here thy natural life.” May-I not be pardoned when 1 say we, the Democratic editors of the state of Indiana, jo! heartily in the wish that our ge* J host, Hon. Thomas Taggart and le efficient corps of assistant manag rs of this superb hostelry may remain in full possession during their natural life and then when done with he duties here below, be translated without death, to mansions of eternal rest

MAJOR JOHN R. SIMPSON.

THOMAS TAGGART.