Indianapolis Times, Indianapolis, Marion County, 28 June 1951 — Page 20
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It Happened Last Night
By Earl Wilson.
NEW YORK, June 28—There was a
rb: can almost in front of the door at 433 w 48th 8t.—'way over in Hell's Pantry.
3 2 . No, not Hell's Kitchen. This place I'm taking you to Is between 9th and 10th Aves. Bast of 10th is Hell's Pantry. West of 10th is Hell's Kitchen. That's what they told me, a “furriner”gfrom Ohio, A plumpish overalled super standing idly there among the tenements said to me, “You looking for the actor?” I nodded.
“Two flights up,” he said. “You can’t miss it. It’s all decorated up,”
* Sb & I FOUND movie and television star Charlton Heston, the new 28-year-old whiz, and his beautiful wife, actress Lydia Clark, showing off their two-room, $30-a-month coldwater flat to some other visitors. “We got that desk there from the Salvation Army warehouse,” broad-shouldered Heston, a Sr amelen, Mich., and Chicago boy, said. “It cost “We got dishes there, too,” years, who comes from Two Chicago, contributed. “We had a $6-a-week food budget when we started. We sure were broke, but we always stayed in the black,” she said. ? oo» do AROUND B'way and Hollywood, most people live in places they can’t afford, but Heston, now playing the lead in the new Cecil, B. DeMille circus picture says they're stayin right in Hell's Pantry. “I was just struggling along on the B'way stage,” Heston said, “when I got a big part on the TV show, ‘Studio One,’ that paid $15.” A year later he was playing leads in that show for $1000—moreover, six weeks after Producer Hal Wallis saw him on one TV show that he liked, Heston was working in Hollywood. “For an actor associated with TV, I hadn't done much of it. Only about a dozen dramatic shows,” Heston offered. But they were all crack performances and millions must have seen them. "dd ONE DAY last summer in Hollywood, Heston who'd been introduced to DeMille, waved to him
his wife of eight Rivers, Wis., and
Americana By Robert C. Ruark
NEW YORK, yJJune 28—Once upon a time I fell among evil ¢ompanions, namely some shipping people who think nothing nf squandering an afternoon-over lunch, and so came upon a place that should be mounted on wheels and circulated over the land. In a season when it is fashionable to refresh the citizens on the a En * value of old-time Americana, I E 4 — suggest that Ye Olde Chop = House be uprooted and sent barnstorming, along with the Freedom Train The chop house has been standing since 1800# Its present owner, Harry Kramer, has been host for only a little while—42 years. Ella, the star waitress, is a neophyte. She was hired in 1912, and has only served some 375,000 meals, Tony the waiter put on’ his fired apron in 1909, and Lizzie, another waitress, retired this summer after working there since 1908. > & » TINO, the chef, has been there since 1920. Alex, the dishwasher, has 20 years in. Charlie, the silverman, has counted ‘the forks for a quarter of a century, and only six people have been discharged in 42 years. In all these years no union has ever operated in this monument to the ancient days, when a fine meal could be obtained without hurdling a rope or bribing a captain of waiters. Mr. Kramer never sold a drop of booze during prohibition, an oversight he occasionally regrets. But all through the 20s you could count off the cabooses of nine railroad presidents, seated at the oyster bar. The place is down on the corner of the island, in the financial district, and I get a bang every time I sit down in one of the battered booths, because most of the financial giants of the past 50 years used to chow there daily. Me and J. P. Morgan, I say, ordering a double lamb chop. Me and Jay Gould. <* So THE OLD restaurant is one of a handful of New York relics which cite graphically the fact that once you were able to eat publicly, with the accent on food instead of ostentation. You never went to the chop house to be seen—you went there to stuff yourself on opulent, hearty grub which was uncluttered by continental service. “I could dress up a man in an admiral’s uniform and stand him at the door,” says Mr. Kramer. “Maybe he would make the customers feel important. But I do that myself. I say hello
= TU
LS
Outside Indianapolis By Ed Sovola
Continued From Page One
and said a talk with Brig. Gen.| Anthony J: Drexel, deputy chief] of staff for national affairs of SHAPE was set. time to kill before seeing the General. Was there anything he| could do or get? { “This may seem unimportant to you, but could you put your mitts on a bottle of cold—COLD-—| American beer?” | = 8's MY WISH came’ true,
=
There was some |
It in Hell's Kitchen
and smiled at him on the Paramount lot. DeMille kept asking who was the boy who waved at him?
So Chuck, as they call him, wound up in “The |
Greatest Show on.Earth.” “I see no reason for leaving this apartment,” Heston said. “Our friends are used to it.” In the winter it would seem to gét a JJittle cold. But they bought a heater and never used
the bathtub. He sent them a note saying: “I couldn’t believe college-bred people would do such things.” They always remember that he spelled it “college bread.” > 9 WHEN THEY are in Hollywood together, they eat in Lucy's or other celebrity spots. In New York, they go to Sardi's or such actorish places. But they are still strong for the Galety Bar at 46th and 8th Ave, where they used to tell themselves only a very short time ago, that they had a future, They met in Northwestern's drama class of 1945—which also boasted Patricia Neale, Ralph Meeker and Jeanne Hagen, Heston went with the 11th Air Force and served in the Aleutians. So he was never graduated. Lydia was modeling when he got out and started looking for a job, For many weeks he gave up job-looking and went apartment-looking. Finally they found this place. I'hey slept on the floor till they got a bed built and painted. > o> 9» AT LAST he got in a good show, “Anthony and Cleopatra,” with Katherine Cornell. Then came the TV. opportunities back in the days when TV was new—only two years ago. “We have gone in for only two extravagances—a Packard convertible and a seal coat for Lydia,” Heston said. They don't seem to fit the neighborhood, at that. And they eat better, too. “She used to make a tuna fish and potato chip dish which is still one of my favorites— but that was pretty expensive. That was when we could afford 25 cents for dinner.”
Fine Cafe Revives Old-Time Americana
and goodby to everybody. My kind of advertising is to watch a man enjoying a dish of terrapin stew and go over to ask him if he'd like some more.” ’
Mr. Kramer's menu offers today, to the lusty tycoons of downtown New York, such things as diamond-back terrapin, broiled partridge, whole broiled plover, pheasant, reindeer steak, pompano, stone crabs, mallard duck, South American quail, venison steak, Scotch grouse, English mutton chops, foot-thick steaks and all the seafood there is. “> oS
HE IS, to my knowledge, the only man who ever engaged in a battle with the OPA over the going price of pheasant. These birds were costing him $3.24 each, and all he could sell them for was $3.44. Naturally, he lost the argument. The chop house today is a sort of dusty, musty museum. It is cluttered with moth-eaten bearmasks and mangy deer, weapons, pictures, framed letters, ship models and bric-a-brac. You can read the will of the earliest Vanderbilt, written in the "70s when he still spelled it Van Der Bilt, and used “f” for “s”. There is an original photo of Abe Lincoln, and chromos of Prince Albert and Edward VII as beamish boys. The cheesecake consists mainly of semidraped ladies made legitimate by the fact that a doctor was taking a sounding with a stethoscope. The upstairs floor boards are worn thin as paper, which is not unnatural, since they've been there 147 years. - i ¢ © @
THE GHOSTS of old Gen. Cornelius Vanderbilt, of Astors and Whitneys, of all the ancient buccaneers of Wall Street, peer over your shoulder as you eat. Dusty clippings of long-forgotten fires, archaic cartoons, walrus-mustached photos gone brown and speckled, all keep you in a Father Knickerbocker mood. Mr. Kramer's two sons, Leonard and Jerry, and Mrs, Kramer, form the structure around which the old place is run. There is no pomp; you will see a Wall Street mogul draw up in a limousine, only to get a bad time from Ella if he is late for his dinner. There is no hatcheck girl, no photograph girl, no headwaiter, no captain of waiters. There aren’t many of these places left, which is why I say it ought to be shunted around the nation. As an advertisement for employerlabor relationship; as a sermon for uncomplicated living, Ye Olde Chop House is as valuable a relic of early Americana as any document under glass.
Information. Beer Supplied by NATO
|SHAPE in their contacts with the| Gen. Eisenhower's drive, imagina{integral SHAPE staff. |tion, refusal to let obstacles stand
GEN. BIDDLE had maps and] icharts of the organization.
{in his way. : “Mankind ‘is in a state of Hejurgency,” said Gen. Biddle, “and
{explained how Europe was divided /needs confidence. While doing this linto three parts, north, central{joh, Gen. Eisenhower kept this and south. On the map of Europe urgency from overflowing into a were different colored cardboard sea of anxiety.” squares showing the dispositiom! The general also said the plan of land, air and sea forces of the involves thinking on a line of invarious countries. | I'm not afraid to say that sev-/no one voices national feelings. | |eral times when he mentioned the| That in itself, In the names of commanders and how| achievement.
[ternational mentally. At SHAPE,
is a tremendous
dining room of the Astoria I had|the chains of commands eventu- Sr ————————— a beautiful, delicious, refreshing ally ended with Gen. Eisenhower, Segregation Blasted
American brew.
I could haveland how personnel, intelligence,
rolled on the rug (given enough|organization and training, plans, By Willkie as Dangerous
time) from joy. Loveless ' said no.
Gen. Biddle,
SHAPE except the waiters. |
background on the man, was the other free peoples go about our|at the 42d annual convention of| U.’S. Ambassador to Poland from |daily business with a better faith |the National Association for the| | Advancement of Colored People. ! He said segregation was de-| stroying America “politically, eco-| and | men and armor, ships warned it was costing the country | {and planes are on the line. Not the friends it needs to survive the
1937 to 1939. He left with the|in the future, Polish Government after the Nazis attacked and conquered the| Poles. named Deputy Ambassador to|divisions, France. In 1941, Gen. Biddle was| Ambassador to all ernments in London. 1943, he was the diplomatic liaison officer between the Allied Governments and the Free French under Gen. Charles De Gaulle, The purpose of his office, Executive National Military Represen- i, the general's tatives, is primarily to maintain tened. He didn't liaison ‘between the governments Adam. The fact of NATO and SHAPE as well as
» THIS STUFF
Allied Gov-|
lightning doesn’t
Military Representatives
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gave me cigarets
guess . is,
® f
(policy, operations, logistics, budg-| I wanted to carry the empty|et and finance all fitted into the| ATVANTA, June 28 bottle witn me but Commander over-all picture, I was lost. { The important consideration, as/diana House of Representatives wouldn’t understand. No one car-|/far as I was concerned, was the and son of the late 1940 Repub-| ries empty beer bottles around fact that big and capable men| {were doing something construc-|
un
In June of 1940, he was|isn't in the talking stage.
{a8 many as we would all like to|present world conflict, In 1942 and g00 "of course, but the foundation is laid. From now on in, provided!
{will add to this foundation. I'm kidding you not when I say
it was with great pride that I sat For Those Over 40
jAmerican from Indiana and was act as co-ordinator for National interested in what SHAPE was t0/ doing, was good enough. ve How far do you suppose a Russian citizen would get with the same kind of a procedure? Sure, I had to.identify myself and stop at the security desk. But I got to see a general who talked and
sald he was glad to see me. My the average Russian |citizen would get as far as Siberia| if he tried getting into a high| military post in Moscow.
” n ” IT WAS comforting to hear, Gen. Biddle say thé supreme commander was satisfied with the way his organization was functioning. He also spoke highly of
| Philip Willkie, member of the In-
od { they are doing]
The
{nomically and spiritually”
strike, SHAPE
Fresh Outlook
office and lisknow me from,
What will your life be like that I was an|
after age 40?
They can be years of monotony, or bonus years . , . depending upon yourself, reports the Foundation for Forty-Plus Living.
How people 40 and over can find new hope for a “youthful” life ahead is told in a series of articles which starts - in The Times next Sunday.
YOUR YEARS AFTER FORTY is important reading
(to smoke) and
for your future, whether you're 40 . , . over 40 . . . or under 40,
Watch for this new; important series in The Sunday Times. . x
TV Star Heston Likes
| }
| | |
(UP)—|
lian presidential nominee, blasted]
Gen. Biddle, to give you a little|tive to make me and you and SeBregation last night in a speech
| | spaghetti.
“The Indianapolis Times
| |
By
A House That Meatballs Built—
it. Once the landlord suspected they were warm- | ing the place by keeping hot water running in |
THURSDAY, JUNE 28, 1951
ED KENNEDY
OU GET lot’s a bread and two meatballs at the Milano
Inn, 231 S. Noble St.
And the Milano can truly be called the house that meatballs built—with of course, spaghetti and sauce.
The mecca of meatballs is a family affair.
It was
started in 1932 by the Modaffari brothers, Joe and Paul,
in one room of the present location. Brother Joe handled cooking and broth-
{ er Paul the details. The name Milano came from their home province in Italy. | Joe, who prefers to be known as Chef Milano, sums up their success this way. “I always try to cook for the people the way I like. it myself.”
2 2 n THE TWO BROTHERS tried a number of ventures after ar-
riving in this country, but nothing clicked until they turned their hand to serving the | food of their native Italy. Joe
| came over in 1907 and Paul in
|
1913.
The menu is really an A-to-Z program. Starting with antipasto, it runs through chicken cocciatore, raviola and ends up with zin fandel. Chef Milano, when asked to explain how he cooks everything the way he does so readers could do the same at home, racked his brain to come up with a recipe. When he did it came out like this,
Spaghetti Sauce Half Tomato Half Tomato Paste A lot of ingredients Lots of meat Cook 8 hours Or the secret formula for his
Put it in boiling water and cook until it ig done just right. A peek in the kitchen revealed that he tested the spaghetti the same way you do
+2 By United Press VATICAN CITY, June
28-—| audience was Margaret Truman, reserved and|gpirited.”
at home to see if it's done. He breaks it and looks for the little white spot in the center, Meat Balls ¢« A lot of ground beef, eggs, bread crumbs, parsley, pepper, (several kinds), garlic, cheese and ingredients. Roll ’em in balls and fry until just right. Just now much of any one thing he puts in a recipe the chef can never remember, hut it always comes out right. Of course he whistles or sings Santa Lucia, all the time he's stirring the pot, which may have something to do with his success. “There is only one major secret to cooking good Italian food,” Chef Milano said to pass on to you. “Put cheese on bottom, put cheese on top and put it in the pot. From their one room start 19 years ago, they have expanded
2 to take over the two big rooms
of the building, with several additions being made through the years.
” ” ” AFTER BEING discharged from the Army in 1920, the brothers went in the produce business during the '20s. Joe was well known as a banana and strawberry merchant. But the strawberry business went to pot so they turned to the pot for their living. For years Joe did all the cooking himself. But now the two brothers act as signors, leaving the details to help they have trained. But just supervising
“Warm and Quite Spirited’ —
Solemn, Reserved, Margaret Truman Talks
the,
Vatican sources said
is hard work for which they reward themselves with relaxing glasses of fine chianti, A
treatment which they recommend to their customers, and never hesitate to join in to make the cure work.
Currently a touch of Italy has been lent to the place with the addition to the staff of young Signor Mario Modaffari, a nephew of tne two brothers, from Rome. He is working as the baker. Mario is an exchange student from the University of Rome, now attending Butler University here. He'll get a degree in languages from Butler. From Italy he brought
solemn but wearing-a faint touch|/Mijss Truman about America and |for non-Catholics.
of .rouge and lipstick, received alasked her to convey his particular 15 minute private audience today cordial greetings and wishes to/Taverna, residence of U. E. Am-|
with His Holiness. Pope Pils XII. | President and Mrs. Truman.
She was the first member of the
family of a
President to make such a visit, [a miniature medal of the MaMiss Truman, wearing a high-'donna.
necked black satin gown with! wrist length sleeves and a fine “Santa
The silver medal was of the Maria Degli
black lace veil. over her head, met| (Saint Mary of the Angels). It is the Pope in his private Vatican the usual, commemorative souve-inor she drove to the Vatican.
library, | :
&
Miss Truman
{bassador James C. Dunn, where her escort—including one U. 8. The Pope presented Miss Tru:she is staying, in an embassy car Secret Service man, walked up the living American man, who is an Episcopalian, with to go to the Catholic North Amer- red carpeted noble stair case into {ican College where she conferred the lofty Consistorial Hall and fon Vatican protocol with the Rt.ithen' through nine other majestic Rev. Msgr. Martin John O'Connor, halls to the papal antechamber. Angell” the rector. { . Accompanied by Msgr. 0'Con-
Warenghein de Flory, hono Chamberlain- of the Sword nir given by the Pope to visitors.] Two American prelates attached/Cape. / i Nn
x * *
AT LEFT—Chef Milano and Pisa. The chef poses with a dish
of his favorite food in front of
one of his many murals. The pictures show scenes in Italy, including the famous leaning tower of Pisa.
ABOVE—Baker Mario and
pizza. In baking pizza—a ho! the cheese that counts. Put cheese on bottom, cheese on top and
pie—the chef says it's
put in pot. Pizza is pronounced Pete's a.
io
~~
with him a’ degree in Pizza, at which he is a master maker and baker.
» ” ”
SCENES of old Italy and wartime Italy are found in large photographic and painted murals which cover the walls. In one room, photo-montages combine a number of the thousands of tourists attractions which cover the country.
Another room features a mural around three sides, which depicts the liberation of Italy by the Yanks. Comedian, host, story teller, official hand shaker and drink pourer is one Vincenzo DaPuzzo
The President's daughter and
Here she was met by Baron De
' . ‘e
-- life and is not at all
With Pope
Miss Truman did not kiss the|to the Vatican secretariat of state “warm and quite|Pope’'s ring but merely shook|-—the Rt. Rev. Msgr. Joseph MeThe. Pope questioned hands, which is correct procedure Geough and the Rev. Fr. John |Clancy met Miss Truman in the left the Villaicourt.
Nm ST i PU ti
dion
Hi SA SHO
Times Photos by Bill Oates. FROM A LONG BOTTLE—Jimmy pours Flora delle Alpi.
Jr, who is known to’ all as Jimmy. ’
2 ” .
ONE INTRODUCTION to a person and he knows him for above swapping life stories. This is d much to the consternation of 1 first time customers who have not learned that they shouldn't bother Jimmy with business when he's telling a story or eating. And the latter is often. “After all,” he says, “There's so much good food around, : what's one to do, but eat?” * 4 The customers of long stand- - ing who have helped build the
house of meatballs think so, 4 too. : %
The Baron ushered Miss Tru< man, alone, into the Pontiff's private library. A The Pope, dressed in a white robe, while skullcap and soft white slippers, advanced smiliags ly to greet Miss Truman. They. were left alone for their convers sation in English. = Fifteen minutes later Miss man emerged from the joined her. 0 L104
priests ar a