Indianapolis Times, Indianapolis, Marion County, 31 May 1951 — Page 25

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THURSDAY. MAY 31, 1951

THE INDIANAPOLIS TIMES

T 6:30 the sun rose out of the sea and climbed straight up as it does in the tropics. The island lay some few mjles away and had the appearance of a quite low strip of forest creeping along the horizon. The trees were crowded close together behind a narrow light-colored beach, which lay so low that it was hidden behind the s seas

at regular intervals. According to Erik's po-

sitions this island was Puka

Puka, the first outpost of the Tuamotu group. “Sailing Directions for Pacific Islands - 1940,” our two different charts, and Erik’s observations gave, in all, four quite different positions for this island, but as there were no other islands in all that neighborhood there could be no doubt that the island we saw was Puka Puka. No extravagant outbursts were to be heard on board. After the sail had been trimmed and the oar laid over, we all formed a silent group at the masthead or stood on deck staring toward the land which had suddenly cropped out in the middle of the endless, all-dom-inating sea. At least we had a visible proof that we had really been moving in all these months; we had not just been lying tumbling about in the center of the same eternal circular horizon. To us it seemed as if the island were mobile and had suddenly entered the circle of blue and empty sea in the center of which we had our permanent abode; as if the island were drifting slowly across our own domain, heading for the eastern horizon. » » =n WE WERE all filled with a warm, quiet satisfaction at having actually reached Polynesia, mingled with a faint momentary disapopintment at having to submit helplessly to seeing

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the island le there like a mirage while we continued our

eternal "drift across the sea westward. Just after sunrise a thick black column of smoke rose

above the three-tops to the left of the middle of the island. We followed it with our eyes and thought to ourselves that the natives were rising and getting their breakfast. We had no idea then that native lookout posts had seen us and were sending up smoke signals to invite us to land. About 7 o'clock we scented a faint breath of burned bhorao wood which tickled our salted nostrils. It awoke in me at once slumbering memories of the fire on the beach on Fatu Hiva. Half an hour later we caught the smell of newly cut wood and of forest. The island had now begun to shrink and lay astern of us so that we received flickering wafts of breeze from it. For a quarter of an hour Herman and I clung to the masthead and let the warm Swell of leaves and greenery filter in through ‘our nostrils. This was Polynesia—a beautiful, rich smell of dry land after 93 salty days down among the waves. Bengt already lay snoring in his sleeping bag again. Erik and Torstein lay on their backs in the cabin meditating, and Knut ran in and out and sniffed the smell of leaves and wrote in his diary.

on n ~ AT 8:30 Puka Puka sank into the sea astern of us, but right on till 11 o'clock we could see, on climbing the masthead, that there was a faint blue streak

above the horizon in the east. Then that too was gone, and a high cumulo-nimbus cloud, rising motionless skyward, was all that showed where Puka Puka lay. The birds disappeared. They kept by preference to windward of the islands so that they had the wind with them when they returned home in the evening with full bellies. The dolphins also had become noticeably scarcer, and there were again only a few pilot fish under the raft, That night Bengt said he longed for a table and chair, for it was so tiring to lie and turn from back to stomach while reading. Otherwise he was glad we had missed our landing, for he still had three books to read. Torstein suddenly had a desire for an apple, and I myself woke up in the night because I definitely smelled a delicious odor of steak and onions. But it turned out to be only a dirty shirt. The very next morning we detected two new clouds rising up like the steam from two locomotives below the horizon. The map was able to tell us that the names of the coral islands they came from were Fangahina and Angatau. The cloud over Angatau lay the most favorably for us as the wind was blowing, so we set our course for that, lashed the oar fast, and enjoyed the wonderful peace and freedom of the Pacific.

” ” ” SO LOVELY was life on this fine day on the bamboo deck of the Kon-Tiki that we drank in all the impressions in the certainty that the journey would soon be over now, whatever might await us. For three days and nights we steered on the cloud over Angatau; the weather was brilliant, the oar alone held us on our course, and the current played us no tricks. On the fourth morning Torstein re-

| lieved Herman after the 4-6 { watch and was told that Her-

man thought he had seen the outlines of a low island in the moonlight. When the sun rose just afterward, Torstein stuck his head in at the cabin door and shouted: “Land ahead!” We all plunged out on deck, and what .we saw made us hoist all our flags. First the Norwegian aft, then the French at the masthead because we were heading for a French colony. Soon the raft’'s entire collection of flags was fluttering in the fresh trade

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wind—the |

==-ACROSS “THE PACIFIC « ON A RAFT

CHAPTER EIGHTEEN

American, British, Peruvian and Swedish flags besides the flag of the Explorers Club—so there was no doubt on Board

that now the Kon-Tiki was dressed. n ” EJ THE ISLAND was ideally

placed this time, right in our own course and a little farther away from us than Puka Puka had been when it cropped up at

sunrise four days before. As the sun rose straight up over the sky astern of us, we could see a clear green glimmer high up toward the misty sky over the island. It was the reflection of the still, green lagoon on the inside of the surrounding reef. Some of the low atolls throw up mirages of this kind for many thousand feet into the air, so that they show their position to primitive seafarers many days before the island {tself is visible above the horizon.

About 10 o'clock we took charge of the steering oar ourselves; we must now decide toward which part of the island we should steer. We could already distinguish individual treetops from the others and could see rows of tree trunks shining in the sun, which stood out against the background of dense shadowy foliage.

We knew that somewhere between us and the island there was a dangerous submerged shoal, lying in ambush for anything that approached the innocent island. This reef lay right under the deep, free roll of the swell from the east, and, as the huge masses of water lost their balance above the shoal, they wavered skyward and plunged down, thundering and foaming, over the sharp coral reef. Many vessels have been caught in the terrible suction against the submerged reefs in the Tuamotu group and have heen smashed to pieces against the coral.

FROM THE SEA we saw

nothing of this insidious: trap. !

We sailed in, following the direction of the waves, and saw only the curved shining back of sea after sea disappearing toward the island. Both the reef and the whole frothing witches’ dance over it were hidden behind rising rows of broad wave packs ahead of us. But along both ends of the island where we saw the beach in profile, both north and south, we saw that a few hundred yards from land the sea was one white boil-

ing mass flinging itself high into the air. We laid our course so as to

graze the outside of the witches’ kitchen off the southern point

of the island, hoping, when we |

got there, to be able to steer along the atoll till we came round the point on the lee side or till we touched, before we drifted past, a place where it was so shallow that we could stop our drift with a makeshift anchor and wait till the wind changed and placed us under the lee of the island. About noon we could see through the glass that the vegetation on shore consisted of young green coconut palms, which stood with their tops close together over a waving hedge of luxuriant undergrowth in the foreground. On the beach in front of them a number of large coral

blocks lay strewn about on the |

bright sand. Otherwise there was no sign of life, apart from white birds sailing over the palm tufts.

TOMORROW—The Kon-Tiki |

finds a passage through the reef and has its first visitors from shore, but the wind changes and begins to force the raft out to sea again.

(Distributed by The Register|

PAGE 25

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