Indianapolis Times, Indianapolis, Marion County, 1 January 1950 — Page 19

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homa ; er y football

i through

the New in 1902,

pected to.

wl at Dal teammates post-season years-and choice to e with aniy throng

nt won A four ‘tries its split-T nd, another the ‘Gator Fla, Maryird best de~ major col ght favorite fore 25,000

red | at Miami, a six-point ara. But the planned to 55,000 cusn men,” all

xcept Fulle ad Quarter-

Georgetown lern in the .. Tex.; Mc1 Valley in

ATER

State plays

le saad

+ unbeaten[allahassee, ar Bowl at and Henry r, Ind., 32-0, in Nov. 24, Vincent in at Orlando, irie View in usten, Tex.; » University apple Bowl

fo .

_ decorated with yellow roses a contrast to the ristmas trappings. Betty Ruckelshaus wore one of the smartest cocktail dresses I have seen this season. Of black crepe with a black velvet collar, it had a wool embroidered apron of red, green, gold and black. Two hats struck especially colorful notes, “Mrs, Ralph Tockwood’'s was of soft, flat bright red feathers, while Mrs. Harry Schiotzhauer wore one of pale blue curling feathers. Ann and Bingham Booker of Louisville who spent Christmas with Dr. and Mrs. Bishop Mumford, were there as was Mrs. Frank Fishback of Coconut Grove, Fla., who

; her, mother. i BA Rong Mit ott Hotel rn Mpg, Johnson few... from Chicago on Thursday to be with Mrs. Minnie Johnson of Sunland, Cal, on her 90th birthday.

Holiday- Parties

CHRISTMAS afternoon’

Mr. and Mrs. Keyes Atkins entertained for their daughter, Annie. Gretchen Wem-

. mer, Betty Wood, daughter

of Mrs. Hubert Hickam, Ju- -

lie. Farmer and Judy Meek were among the girls at the party. Judy's brother, Frank, Carl Weinhardt, Jim Pease and Dudley and Huldah Pfaff were on hand

, too. candles, white roses and lilies , f=} — Tuesday was a Very gay and greenery.

day, most people having covered sufficiently — trom Christmas day to stir around a bit. Mr. and rs. T Stevenson had an informal buffet supper, for Mickey who came from New Orleans Mr. and Bain entertained dge and Ted Chadsey who’ were here from their home in Greenwich. ” Mrs. Dorothy Buschmann

~ “had friends in for her son

and daughter, Jody of Washington, and George, who- is in law school at the University of Virginia. Her eldest son, Sev Jr. and his wife are coming to Indianapolis to

live as soon as they can find

an apartment. Bertita Harding Sings THURSDAY night Mr. and

birthday so a beautiful cake

*S.aenitiglen

ETT ETAL RT

nny

me CHANGES IN WOMEN'S FASHIONS, a New. forecast. of the future . . . be it the political, economic or social future. Gay, frivolous styles, according to hint; precede periods of turmoil. Clothes with a subdued, perhaps even weary, look arrive after turbulence subsides. As yet, no-one has taken up the cudgels against his theory. Maybe rio one yearns to know what the future, near or distant, holds. The only test of his idea lies in a. look at the clothes worn in a given era. The “Cavalcade ‘of Fashion 1900 to 1950,” presented today, offers the » chance for such a test. Outstanding events of the half-

“century were World War I, the stock market crash of

1929 and World War IL.

1900 \ 1903 Florodora frills inspired by ' Heyday of the toque we call the celebrated sextet .-. . the the Queen Mary , .. elongated

look . . . high bound collars, stifly incurved walstline, bell sloping shoulders, long narskirts, high collars. row skirt beneath high bosom 1901

"line , . . America's “dollar ; princesses,” Jennie Jerome The young beauty, typified and Consuelo Vanderbilt, both by the Gibson Girl and the married English dukes and new star, Ethel Barrymore, became beauty and fashion threatens the stately sophisti. Idols. cate, typified by Mrs. Leslie Carter . , . sailor hats, shirt. waists-and-skirts and bareshouldered evening gowns the rage:

1904 : Lillian Russell Was queen and opulence was fashion, Feathers, frills, lace, chiffon, the more the merrier . . , “busty” bodices, back fullness to skirts , . . Gainsborough hats.

1902

The age of speed and sport affects faslifon ; , . motoring dusters, thick vells tying on hats , . . bathing suits designed for SWIMMING, golf and tennis dresses take the spotlight.

1905 i ‘Djirectoire influence in cutaway coats, alesis . . . gored skirts with deép borders of tucks, lace

= y & 1900. S19 Re

New Year's. Event Set

Propylaeum Plans Annual Reception The ylaeum- will have its annual New Year's reception from 3 to 6 p, m. tomor-

row. All the parlors will be opened. There will be white

Members of the Propylaeum board will receive the mem«bers and their guests. Board members are Mesdames Fletcher Hodges, E. Everett Voyles, Willis D. Gatch, J. Raymond Lynn, Waldo B. Rossetter, Mansur B. Oakes, Andrew W. Hutchison and Hugh Carpenter. - Also receiving will be Mesdames Walter 8. Greenough, Logan Hall, Fred E. Gifford, Frank B. McKibbin, Robert McMurray and Ralph C. Vonnegut and Miss Margaret M, Shipp.

"we

ores H Mrs. Alex Thomson had a “ 128 lovely party for their elder daughter, Alix, and her guest, ) Barbara Butler of Pelham - FOE EORD * Manor, N. Y. The girls wore \ oward a3 dressy sockiall clothes, Alix ’ : / arson-New. 0 was in a strapless bronze fo Ssterh Ky. 30 dress of metal cloth and Bar- CounterSpy Radel a o bra wore a strapless black enn. Tech.’ 7 net frock. While late supper wert ) 3 was being served, talented Accessories \S ike’ 30 and charming Bertita Hard- . -— ing sang some delightful x.) French songs to a most ap- ) y URI VALLEY preciative audience of young roopi Nn . a r ro e irksville 7 _ people. Lambert Johnson Jr, : y vaneriile 17 " of Evansville, also a house . 7 Co pe ptral ur guest, was among the group By LOUISE FLETCHER, Times Woman's Editor E Alam dowels § who danced to & small orch-" /JNHIS IS THE SEASON of the wardrobe: doldrums. 3 1 estra in a setting of green With . ok of Bmpor. 0 boughs. ith winter barely under way, officially, the clothes - > 5 Mos. Jolin Brandon ” Cul- bought for cold-weather wear already seem to have been : ver, Ind., was gues onor . Woe at a Juncheon at Woodstock hengloe ar nd a long Favorite trick is to thread ARIE vipw on Wednesday given by Mrs. me. at t ey and their a bright scarf through these ; hor 2 ‘ Edgar Evans. Mrs. Booth wearers need is a fresh holes, bringing even more . Viley % > MAIO anu 17S. Frank slant on life , . . a “trans- Cotorto” the costume: xe BU. © Bowel ~were_ among “the fusion” by way of brand . . ; s esis 4, . rambling 19 BF Betty and Henry Peirce spanking ‘new accessories to The Gl ove F its

outhern v0.

had an informal supper Tuesday night for Molly and Tem Henderson who came from Toledo with the Ralph Rendersons for Christmas. Billy and Bill Seccombe, who were married in Washington in December, weré here to see Billy's family, Mrs. Danie] Luten and the John B. Wat-

sons. I saw.Mr. and Mrs. Ted

Bteele at a small party for them one day.

Dinner i in Club

'MARJORIE Cowan spent part of the holidays in Louisville. Cynthia and John Rocks wood and Georgia and Dave Stone took off to Florida for Christmas as did Mr, and Mrs. J. Landon Davis. The young Bill - Burfords came Trom Washington to be with Mrs. Willlam B. Burford of

the Winter Apartments, She

and I spent most of the day before Christmas in the station as I, too, was waiting to meet Mr, and Mrs. Thomas B, Sweeney who returned to Washington last Thursday. Barrett Moxley gave adin<"

mer at the University Club

Wednesday night for Luéina

and Sam: Moxley who have ©

had a very gay visit here and in Muncie, Mr. and Mrs, James had their. annual holiday party Thursday afternoon.

Mr. and Mrs. Eugene ‘Brown

have ‘recently: returnéd from

Ad Page 10, Col 8)

oy : Tries

provide a lift, iven--sports and casual clothes gain- verve with a switch in_ accessories. In "Block's second-floor shoe department they've trotted out some new Joyce playshoes and handbags to fill the bill. Both shoes and bags are called * ‘saddle soft™ and their _ leather is a warm golden tan to spark up almost any basic-

RESH GLOVES, too, do their.bit in rejuvenating.a costume. ‘ There are some superior ones at Charles Mayer's . . . imported ‘‘Sanseams” in washable neutral doeskin. In these, the seam runs down the middle of thé back instead of -down one side.

Solos Tosti « gray, navy: This provides a clinging, biasrown, etc. ey go equally . well with. the pulb sation cut fit across the back of

the hand where so many gloves bulge. In one-button length with notch on top the wrist—and with all Hand~ stitched outside seams—these © are $6.75 a pair. . . 0» : “Some df the. prettiest nylons in town are at Mayer's, They are from Henri Bendel and have a clarity of knit that Is outstanding

and linens for resort wear now-—or for wear nex{ summer,

There is a. vaziely of shoe styles, outstanding ones being Little Indian, a tie model which rises well up toward the ankle and has a notched tongue and back-—giving a kind of Robin Hood effect. The handbags of matching leather come in- thre¥ styles. Largest of thie lot is a capa~

clous over-the-shoulder one In hosiery. . with adjustable strap (for Two weights are available carrying by hand). This is —35 4 -g Auge 15-denier—a

Sl $12.95 plus tax. : Two other styles are priced ' af $8.95 plus tax, First is a big, flat -oval, one side of which folds over to make it

sheer but durable weight for daytime wear,’ comes In medium and dark neutrals at $1.65 a pair,

15-denier—for dress and eve-

Even more - ning wear, come in light and hg Me neutral tones and are $2.25 feedbag style much lke a Sp, ETERS «2 ls fo ™ ore news comes at tervals, in om ive. waive ah ap- :

Extra “8h 6 61 3—00-gAUES, 4

pearance there is a collection of Lesco bags made in England. Styles are the satchel and the stroller, The former has luggage -type handles

_ while the latter. has a double ‘strap to suspend it from the

arm. # Most of the Lesco bags also-—boast leather linings. The good-sized stroller comes

in black, navy. or brown calf =’

or in Pigskn, It's- $25 plus tax. Interesting feature of the satchels is the use of genuine Morocco eather. A large

“doctor's size” satchel is $25 .

plus the tax while a slimmer satchel, also in black Moroeco, is, $15 plus tax. is

SOME OF the shoes destined for southern

wear this winter should

‘brighten the’ spirits of any buyer . . she plans. on stowing

weather moves north,

These ohm -

Gs pe

_printed frocks; there's an IL. «

one has "a little’ key tb open it.

Color Afoot

even if

wv or braid . . . hats enofmous and bulky. : Tr=iFE gn, : 1906 SRR Iza ; High Empire waistline - dainty ‘elegance . . . rts

VI Araing- ggg AAD

Garden and Geraldine Farrar the rage, introducing tall willowy brunet with definite allure as the ideal.

1908 —— Princess, unpadded silhouet established . . . introduction of

the “tailor-made”... big hats on the head. -

1909 Washtub hat laden with plumes above hounglass silhouet , |. { jabots and fancy cuffs.

=*" of the short coat, ~seven: ] or eighth length. . . frizzed poma o 1 padours with small chic hats 2 ; ; " popularized by Queen Alexi 3 andra. | / "1907 2 __- Hemline news Short! (Two A inches off the ground) ... Tre. = laxing waistlines with “né : evidence of boning” . .. Mary 5

rrp ET EN

1910 The sashed waistline . . . the huge hat .'. . the big muff . . . introduction of the hobble skirt . . . the Follies

Girls’ reign begins.

' -

=. York hair stylist maintains, provide an accurate events . ... and less frivolous'a [te

leg-o mutton

a mh:

THN HINT

nhl TIRANA

Trash i)

bras, I, Millers, at*Wasson’s. Red, yellow’ and--green are combined in eaclf shoe . . . dressy high-heeled models or “

19H} Poiret introduces oriental | influence in fashion . .. tur<’ bans, odalisque draped skirts,

casual strapped sandal wed- jewel embroidery ... the gles with open heels. Prices Turkish Trot and Bunny Hug on these are $26.95 for high rage necessitated slashing

heels%= $18.95 for wedgies. Bags to match are $22.95 plus tax.

To wear with pastel or

hobble skirts to the knees. 1912 T Body beautiful clothes, draped high bodices, softly sashed waistline, clinging skirts . '. . lots of ringlets around the face, large turban

Miller ankle. strap sandal with a laticed vamp of tiny kid straps in pink, fuchsia covering the rest of the head and periwinkle. These are « + + Stoles, big flat muffs, ¥24.95. oo 1913. A spectator shoe by I. Mil- . Long, thin, willowy figure ler is made of heavy wheat with “proffered hipbones” . linen .combined “with sherry- heyday of French designers beige suedé. This has an ex- Drecoll and Doucet . , , Irene tension sole, sling back- and Castle emerges As a new star an asymmetrical buckled tab and a new fashion ideal.

’

effect (of suede) on the 1914 vamp; 95. : a 3 A ii A astle clothes " by Lady: v- THE ¢ beige-ta-brown colo" Duff Gordon | . . tunics over

range. promises to be .out- . standing in resort and summer shoes, particularly when . two tones are combined. It

narrow _underskirts . multilayered chiffons, little Dutch caps. . . soft delicacy the keynote of style. .

other I. Miller design —a 1918 wedge - soled Ag! Wartime in Europe revostraw combined . with honey- lutionizes fashion . . . intro. . beige calf in sling back style; duction of the chemise frock Has. 7 » y in Paris. Ta

form divine via Annette Kellerman and’ her bathing suits,

easy, emancipated, but lady-

tion, great emphasis on the

vamp. — Gloria Swanson, diadem hats and shapely up“Theda Bara with ‘heavy turned brims , . . hair makeup, “headache bands,” brushed up into suggestion "long dangling beads and ear- of a pompadour. rings. 1935 ; 4918 -. ; - The shoulder pad used Slim “patriotic” silhouet under everything from tweed

- ces, uneven “hemlipes, float-

beaded or spangled sheath 1900-1910 fashions . . . neat . ‘evening dreses, diamond waists, long -bodied look, bracelets from wrist to el- rounded hips “more bow. hat” in toques, ribbon turbans, cloches and bowlers - 1929 ans os + + dog collars, - “TMrE. Harrison Wittiams-—be

“begin. ‘their influence . .

4 rd? Opinie LA

vary, but on one point there is agreement. Fashions changed much more rapidly during the latter. part of the half-century than in the earlier part. The other day, ‘millinery designer Lilly Dache pointed out that fashion 3 has been undergoing a speedup system lately. Fifty 2 years ago, when a new fashion silhouet was introduced = it had a life expectancy of at least seven years. Thus a . fashion started in 1900 might still be worn, with per. laps minor variations, seven years later. “Now,” Lilly ; says, “it takes only three years to change the silhouet = from slim to full and long to short.” Here's the way ~ they looked that year .. PANE, any year, 1900 through 1948,

1916 1934 Liberation of ‘the ‘female. Soft draped or bias-cut ’ : silhouet sponsored by Vibnnet in Paris, launched by Valens tina in America . , . skirts “12 inches from-the floor . . . sloping shoulders on dresses, squared on suits, tied or belt ed, monastic fullness . . . ¢ . color inserts , .. coolie hats,

one-piece

1917

The chemise frock, loose,

like: ... in direct:contradic-

to chiffon . . . skirts getting shorter . . . pleats everywhere . the print suit . . , Valen=

. manufacturers agree to use limit of five yards of 54inch material in the interests

of “Hooverizing” our wool. tina launched aprofh Ww 1919 «“+ « doll hat introduced by Paris. Skirts getting short- ~elght I dnches fro the floor . ". « 936 fringe skirt#' dolman wraps, Mrs. Wallis Simpson, eleturbans small’ and often gant Amgfrican, becomes a feathered. Cy i symbol of fashion as well as

. inflated shoul- . tunics, including . lampshades « + + Costume pajamas. . . . rage for Alix's PDEA. JATIN mein SRO rat v0 ing pink .the color rage. : , 1937 7s NS Glamour girl year with 5 Brenda Frazier, white-faced, - black-haired, the girl who set the fashion . . . beginning of" the page-boy bob... the sim« ple little black dress or suit with a hunk of jewelry on -ihe lapel and no: hat at all

1920 = romance . . A APE Pearl White and “The Perfis of Pauline” find clothes Jor, action the big news . “harem trousers Reith “Kared tunics above conn wi huge fur collars... eyohrowhugging hats . .. ”. bloused bod-

“ing panels. 3 - 1921 Prohibition and votes from ° women bring simple tailored clothes, the first casual look, into vogue . . .. belted suits, —

: became a uniform . . . big« ackets gH aa oragnt gest sellfng dress: Coples of dresses, the Diichess of Windsor's 1922 : = Nadie dress, ; forify ~~ J Sp ¢ 3 a a 9 . hom RetifR > of hats makes news duction ‘of costume jewelry +* +. half-hat and flower

. ‘walstliné drops to the crowns solving the problem

. : . Slimmer skirts . . . Piguet He + + short skirt era i introduces ffed decolletage . || veo first: wrappdd-and-tied 7 1923 || sandals for/ evening. Ultra sophistication the

1939 War in Bustpe islocates fashion . .|. r up” eles / equi

| trimmed snes fois, pl mannish coats . , . fla Shy ie, hs 1940 : ne

ach new heights . ff day for lapel in-

vogué \. . . daring deep cut sleeveless slip dresses, bare backs, even daytime, no girdles or rar) beneath. The | Dolly Sisters in their dresses by Jenny made handkerchief points on skirts popular, Era of the “marcel wave.” 1924 Flour sack silhouet, straight frome neck to knee with helmet hat over boyish haircut. *

{Sloppy Joe land blue jean era n college clothes begins . . . turn of the bustle . . . in Ina Claire, sparkling come- oduction fof “mix match” dienne in “The Last of Mrs. separates. Cheyney” ushers in era of the 1941 4 best-dressed woman . . . short Mainbocher introduces the

skipts, strapless tops, cloche fur-lined coat an of hats almost covering the eyes ered sweater. qd gc

. + fur borders on. skirts. Mook with Rita Hayworth the

1925

1926 ~ideal . . . coifs, wimples and . “Waistlines wandering up snoods are the rage. and down” . the flapper

1942 * Government imposes L.-85 restrictions on clothes to conserve fabric. Functional r ¢lothes are de rigeur ., . . the pegtop silhouet softens the stern restricted outline + + Chesterfield coat , . & rayon stockings. 1943

Women in uniform beste

and sex rampant .. . John Held Jr. cartoons show more leg than skirt, more arm and bosom than bodice . ... hemline and hipline almost meet.

1927 Clara Bow, the “It” girl, brings a hint of femininity back to the flapper . . . introduces tight midriff and full

skirt. dressed women , . Leo- } 1928 nora Corbett of “B 1 ithe Amelia Earhart becomes Spirit” sighted as'ideal

“woman grown” beauty of the day . . . Norman Norell reintroduces 1926 fashions, 1944 Return of ultra -

symbol of boyishness with fresh charm-added . , . slacks, plaid shirts, playclothes introduced as balance to mad:

dest - extravagance / in solid feminine

1945 a - 8hort- full skirts in- Paris contrast with still-restricted narrow L-85 silhouet here + + « large hats the vogue. 1946 L-85 lifted . . . skirts ine stantly become fuller, longer . Balenciaga's Spanish-in-spired narrowed torso and - round shoulders become high fashion . . . hoopskirts and crinolines revived for evening . hats become side tilted and smaller , . . nylons ; —.!

return. : 1947

Christian Dior ‘introduces rid . small topped dresses with full - skirts and coins “The New

gins her long career as bestdressed woman . , , hemlines start dropping at sides and back , .., panic in feshion world . , pani. in stock market.

1930 Greta Garbo's longer bob and languid allure take hold on fashion . . . the casual swagger look takes hold . ." waistline returns to normal . skirts, some still dipping, are 2; inches below the knee -. . . ‘Adrian's dramatic " ¢onfrasts of line,’ widened shoulders and longer skirts,

Grecian look--for evening.

: 1931 Look.” Battle pro-and-antf “Letty Lynton,” Joan shoulder pads and lor" skirts - | . : Crawford's picture, sets a Fi ns.. . . the “profile” hat

new fashion for huge sleeves with long, tight sheaths , . . -Adrian-designed, it became

the Letty Lynton sleeve at in a draw . . . hemlines from = home and abroad . . . Ameri- 13 inches for spring to 11 and can “home” designs begin to 12 in fall . , 1

‘be known, 1932 Gr Schiaparelli’'s sequin - en: crusted ' jackets and. little suits: set the vogue .. . shoulders widened and raised with, padding . . . waistliné normal, hips stim, Skirts nar-

1933 Adrian’ - “sponsored wedge : sithouet introduced and American sult era begins... ad bigh-rowniad hate worn bust i one eye . .., the “ int dréss