Indianapolis Times, Indianapolis, Marion County, 23 October 1949 — Page 17
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SUNDAY. OCT. 23, os Institute Lists Fashions Making Greatest 'Hif Among Smart Women
Best Sellers In Fall Shopping Period Described in Dress Organization’ s Report
NEW YORK, Oct. 23—What are the season's “h fashions? It's fascinating to know—now that the fall shopping period is past its peak—what costumes by name design-
Here is a list of current best sellers compiled by the New
York Dress Institute: Brigance’s curry yellow wool
pleated skirt. Slim, casual, appare
its straightness and comfort.
Wide-wale corduroy coat-dress by the same designer. Buttoned all the way down the front, highly its soft foldover eollar, unpressed pleats on each side of the skirt fore and aft, and a real lizard beit.
- Mollie Parnis’ youthful sheer scarf tucked into an open, squarish collar, and “easy” skirt with set-in hipline pockets. Appealing for small gold-rimmed buttons fastening the bodice, for a neckline that takes many changes scarves, and the kind of dress that “wears well” day after day. Pauline Trigere’s simple and straight black wool jersey dress with scooped neckline and pushup sleeves with separate black taffeta overskirt for evening. Versatile (the slim dress may be worn alone for daytime), packable and reasonably a hit, too, because it is the type of semi-formal black costume that goes with a variety of jewelry and wraps. By the same designer, a black wool jersey cocktail dress with “envelope sleeves” enfolding the extreme upper arm, shallow V neckline, set-in istline band pointing up. Slim, yet with ease in center skirt flare, suave in a youthful way, the dress has an extra attraction in a pastel blue suede cloth shoulder shawl edged with black wool yarn.
Silhouet Wins Approval Adele Simpson's slim town dress of yarn-dyed sheer gray wool. Wrapped, buttoned and jutting out on one side, it is probably a hit first of all for its new looking silhouet and costume look. A fur scarf goes nicely with the high neckline of the sidefastened bodice. Another is Mrs. Simpson's street-length dress of light gray jacquard satin brocade. Moderate skirt fullness, a becoming V neckline with little collar, and cuffed three-quarter sleeves add up to “rightness” for almost any semi-formal occasion.
Popular In Colors Another hit: Claire McCdrdell’s worsted flannel dress with large bandanna collar, hook and eye| bodice fastenings, and graceful skirt with center front fullness, gathered back. A hit in many colors as well as black, no doubt for its pretty allover softness, and the fact that it can be easily dressed up with accessories.
in{Probably a hit for its texture,
{develops that southern style cen-| ters forecast the fashions for . summer, there will be a preview
¢ day dress with mushroom=
a hit because of its color,
yet “different” for
navy wool dress with red surah
type black matelasse dress buttoned down the bodice from a small collar, narrowly belted in
the fabric above a gathered skirt.
neatness and usefulness. Rosenfeld is responsible tor, another hit: A silver metalic knit| street-length festive dress—| sashed with rose red velvet rib-| bon, short-sleeves, V-necked with a narrow shawl collar, and non-| tarnishable.
Women to See Men's Styles
Times Special NEW YORK, Oct. 22—Reversing the usual procedure, a fashion show of men’s apparel for an audience of women will be staged here at a luncheon in the Cotillion Room of the Hotel Pierre, Nov. 2. Recognizing that women are in-
Brief coat in white doeskin.
By LOUISE FLETCHER Times Woman's Editer
(CALIFORNIA designers have the resort and cruisewear clothes problem under control—in more ways than one. They are among the earliest to show such midwinter vacation togs. And many of the styles, particularly those for swimming, are designed to
3 creasingly important in influenc-| = +*
ing the choice of male apparel, as well as purchasing a large volume,
of men's wear and accessories, the
theme of the presentation is to be informative on the new trends. Live models will exhibit all important items of the coming winter resort wear from town suits
to bathing suits. As it frequently
of men’s attire for the hot weather of 1950. These clothes are now being readied by top producers for retail year.
Turkish Women Gaining
WASHINGTON — The great strides taken by Turkish women in the professional fields since the start of their emancipation during World War I places them on an equal footing and in some cases far ahead of women in| other countries of Europe, according to Madame Ferid Tek,
Henry Rosenfeld’s shirtwaist
president of the Soroptimist Club, oo
of Istanbul.
iy N J
merchandising next *
Skirted swimsuit.
keep the wearer's curves under control.
Cole of California, for instance uses Matiletex-shirring for curve-accenting backs of the Polynesian swimsuit and sundress pictured. Both the pareo swimsuit and’ sundress feature a swathed, strapless bosom and a side-wrapped skirt. The swimsuit has a matching bolero and skirt; the sundress a matching bolero. The “Sandcomber” cotton print has red, green or brown shellfish and sunglasses on white. tJ . # COLE'S skirted swimsuit (lower left) takes a new shape with an “Illusion” bra and slenderizing U-shaped panels over the hips. The bra is called that because it gives the illusion of being barer than it is. The suit, in vivid colors, is of air-light nylon laton taffeta. A princess carnation dress (extreme right) by Pat Premo does its bit to enhance a curved waistline. One of a dressy-fon day flower group of frocks with low necklines, it has handmade carnations outlining the neck like a lei. The fabric is puffed cloque and the lei is sewn to a cord for easy removing when cleaning. ” . . MANY of the coats to top resortwear fashions tell a short, short story. One of the new California-designed coats is a brief white doeskin number (upper right) with softly turned shawl collar, raglan sleeves with turn-back cuffs, and tulip pockets. Back interest is handled by pleating. The California resortwear styles probably will make their appearance in local stores in December.
THE INDIANAPOLIS TIMES
Polynesian influence: Swimsuit and sundress.
Picks Styles 'Ou
IF EVER there was enthusiasm for life, and love of beautiful things, Tina Leser has both. She makes one feel that everything she looks at offers her an idea for a shape, a color, a detail to be turned into fashion. Tina is one fashion designer who can't wear her samples, and maybe that's why her clothes “check out,” as the store buyers say, as well in 16 and 18 as they do in 10 and 12 sizes. She is definitely big, and she definitely doesn’t care. She lives, loves and eats happily anyway, and with her ‘amazing wide black eyes, her smoothly brushed hair, exquisite grooming and clothes chosen to emphasize line and color, she is a good-looking young woman, no doubt about
it. ” » . SHE IS married to a former officer of Pan American Airways, Jim Howley. He shares her wanderlust and helps her collect beautiful things in’ their travels around the world. They also share a fantastic New York apartment, made
t of the Air’
Tina ‘Leser
over “by hand” from an East Side tenement and now the subject of as many rave reviews as an average Leser collection. This is the second made-over miracle for Tina: Her house.in Sands Point; L. I, formerly was a stable.
|
: | Up’ Suits
| | ]
3 8.3 i * Sed |
Carnation dress.
~ (Gems 'Shine
By EPSIE KINARD NEA Staff Writer NEW YORK, Oct. 22 — The shine of metallic threads or the glitter of jewels makes new cocktail suits shine like glow worms after dark. Many of these so-called suits are actually one-piece dresses with a two-piece look. Imported antique gold croquignole taffeta (a crinkled taffeta which achieves its metallic sheen from a weaving process crossing. black threads with gold) makes a dress that passes for a suit. Styled by Pauline Trigere, winner of the 1949 Fashion Critics’ Award, this ultra-smart dress has a straight skirt flounced by a pleated peplum, stand-up collar and three-quarter length sleeves. Make-believe sapphires, set in gold glitter like real jewels, trim a cocktail suit of stone blue faille. The notched hipline jacket of this Eisenberg design, which is but-
Ensembles Late Trend | In Fashions
|color, scheme,
Coat and Dress Are Matched =
EE ur in ta
| (tall is the coat-and-dress combi«
more in evidence tHan
lis newly important, in a windfall of lengths and sty {belted, wrapped or gently-fitteg.
feitner shade in or
but deflinite Keeping
sarily all of a Japele or all a
all ofa
com with coat-
¢ |and-dress fashions are cape-and- . |dress costumes, some of the newx est capes inspired by the grace- . !ful Roman toga. - Loose and cape shaped in back, the fronts of these {wraps give a jacket or open coat effect.
In either case, much of the dress beneath shows to pretty
advantage.
Smart, Practical
Among the smartest and most practical coat-and-dress enseme bles are those teaming a two thirds-length or three-quarter boxy topper with a slim line dress, Some of these coats are fastenless, spme held together with a belt, and others buttoned double« breasted. One such ensemble by New York's Maria Krum oombines a wrist-length coat of dark rose tweed with tuxedo front and a slender sheer wool dress of the same tone. Quite different and yet similar in silhouet is a costume from Ann Sadowsky— a taupe velveteen fingertip coat cut something like a pea-jacket with a one-piece dress, the simple highnecked bodice in the velveteen and the straight skirt in matching color wool jersey. Jersey also lines the coat.
Street Length
Also plentiful in New York collections this fall is the street
length coat and harmonizing dress. Coats come in such materials as fleece, velveteen, chin chilla and covert; dresses in
toned up with these “jewels,” has
a-draped cowled collar and a
neckline bow. The skirt is circular,
Stylist Here
(worsted, wool jersey, plaid or thin wool. Sometimes, the coloring of both coat and dress match, as in Claire McCardell’s cape-collared oxford-toned fleece coat with the same shade of worsted dress. Again, the coat may be in a sharply-contrasting shade but
Miss Audrey Lances, stylist for|lined to tone with the dress. For
the Edith Lances Brassiere Co. of New York, will be here in Ayres’ brassiere department Tuesday and Wednesday for consul-
tation on figure problems.
example, a Brigance costume from Charles Nudelman’'s collection pairs a soft yellow wool coat lined in dark green crepe like the ac|companying shirtwaist dress.
AT THE TOP OF THE LIST!
Of course, Swansdown’s are exclusive with The Wm. M. Block
Company in Indianapolis + + , of course, they've been pleasing
discriminating women for years. That's why you can count on
them for reliable quality, better-than-average tailoring, better
than-average value!
far left: BEAUTIFUL WOOL TWEEDS belted or unbelted .
and. smart lining. Black and white, wine, blue,
69.95
. with wool zip-in, zip-out interlining
natural or brown mixtures. All with the Swansdown quality built in. Sizes 8 to I&
left: TWO.PLY
on any figure.
100% 'WORSTED GABARDINE
boxy style, another year-around. faverite, right
Featuring the wanted zip-cert wool
interlining that fits slick as a whistle. Tan, green,
charcoal, black, brown, wine and winter nevy,
Sizes 8 to 20.
BLOCK'S Coat Shep, Second Floer
>
59.95