Indianapolis Times, Indianapolis, Marion County, 25 September 1949 — Page 18

= Want. Durable Linings _ ‘should be good enough quality to

J broadcloth waist, or a bright side of the garment, first with a

PAGE 18

Dressing Gown Is Favorite C

g Times Special . . ‘ NEW YORK, Sept. 24—What'is the favorite costume of the most famous and best dressed women in America? A tailored suit? No. A shirtwaist dress? Wrong again. The answer is a soft, easy-wrapping dressing gown. Favorite fabrics: Velvet or cotton. Favorite colors for relaxing: White or blue. Preferred shades for “perking up” before a gay evening: Red or yellow. Preferably zipped up the front, and with a sash. .' These were among the findings of the American negligee industry in a recent survey among well-known women, including t Truman and Mrs. Roosevelt as well as famous actresses, writers, singers and socialites, “ The report brought out the repeated statement: ute 1 get home, I change into a dressing gown.” The survey revealed that 00 per cent of the women who work creatively—writing, singing or designing—work at home in negligees or lounging clothes. Practically none sald they liked pajamas. None said they liked tallored robes except for travel, Most confessed to a weakness for buying dressing gowns in more quantity than dresses. Many sald they love to indulge their sense * of fantasy In dinner-at-home clothes whichi might be really “fancy dress” in feeling.

Mrs. FDR Likes Tea Gowns

Writers and singers among those questioned unanimously cited negligees .as their “uniforms” for work at home. Mrs. Franklin D. Roosevelt prefers black velvet tea gowns for the interviewing and column writing she does at home. Gladys SwartHout, Jane Pickens and Eleanor Steber, well-known singers, wear glamorous but loosely-cut negligees. of silk jersey or light wool when they rehearse. All demand deep armholes for easy gesturing and all like white or vivid colors. Margaret Truman confesséd that this is one habit she hasn't added to her training for the concert stage. rehearsing as work. I guess I haven't learned to relax while I practice,” she said. “But when I do, I guess I'll wear pink as it's my favorite color.” Radio personalitfes Maggi McNellis and Dorothy Kilgallen

“The min-

“I still think of

as a soother-downer, and choose theirs accordingly. Mary Martin, star of “South Pacific,” has a wardrobe of negligees and dressing gowns composed entirely of silk jersey and shantung in sky blue,. cloud. white, and leaf green because the colors of nature are the ones that relax her. She spends. the hours between matinee and evening performances of “South Pacific”--one of the most taxing roles ever written—in a flowing ankle-length coat or bias-cut sashed robe, in her theater dressing room. ih Globe-trotters Lenora Corbett, the actress, and Janet Adrian, wife of the California designer who recently went on safari to Africa, were both loud In praise of nylon dressing gowns, tailored but in soft colors (because they never wrinkle and can be washed without ironing). v A fine sense of fantasy in dinner at home clothes showed up in the negligee wardrobes of celebrities who by day are noted for their ultra simplicity, Hattie Carnegie, famous dress designer, confessed to a passion for jewel-embroidered satin jackets and tapered black slacks. Luli Kollsman, Viennese-born socialite and novelist, has a wardrobe of dinner-at-home costumes which inSludés Persian embroidered coats and trousers and mandarin robes.

Individual Reports Listed

Here are the personal reports orf a number of the celebrities questioned: MARY MARTIN, stage star: I wear classic wraparound robes of silk jersey or shantung, both winter and summer. I like full skirts, long sleeves and sashes but no collars. I like white, green or pale blue—the colors of trees, clouds and sky which ‘Tre best.. I am not a tallored type in anything, least of all in my negligee wardrobe, ‘ HATTIE CARNEGIE, designer: I like to relax in Chinese silk pajamas or straight floor-length coats, always in a beautiful color that blends with my ‘bedroom color scheme. For dinner at home I like two-piece costumes of either a full ankle-length skirt and ‘little jacket of silk brocade, or slim black trousers with a very elaborate embroidered jacket of pastel satin. In the country

my favorite dinner suit is _black slacks and a Tyroléan velvet . « Jacket that I've had for years :

JANE GREER, movie star: My favorite lounging outfit is one

ostume

Of Country's Most Famous Women

boat-neck, very wide sleeves tightly gathered at the wrist, a flowing skirt, and small rhinestone buttons down the front of the

quilted vest. Sometimes I wear velvet lounging slacks in either

black or blue topped with sweaters, blouses and boleros. LULI KOLLSMAN, novelist: The time when I am alone or only with my husband is the time I indulge my love of “dressing up.” . I adore princess coats of fabulous satin or chiffon over fanciful Persian prince trousers. Another time I may want to look Chinese in an authentic mandarin coat. I find that shades of yellow have the most restful and cheerful effect on me, and

#0 many of my boudoir coats are in yellow,

Other Celebrities Report

MOLLIE PARNIS, designer: I think a dressing gown, being part of your-intimate wardrobe, should be just as easily laundered. I like cotton’ chambray trimmed with eyelet embroidery forssummer, and I always have three or four alike in different chlors. I like negligees that zip up the front, as I always sit with my feet tucked up and hate pulling a robe together all the time. I dislike patterned fabrics, and always choose rather bright pastels such as Wedgwood blue, violet or mint gi % ADELE ASTAIRE DOUGLAS, actiess and socidlite: Since I like all my clothes more or less tailored, my tea gowns and negligees follow out simplicity of line. Pastel colors are my favorite, so naturally pale pinks, blue and white predominate. I have a tailored thin wool lined in chiffon that I almost live in during the winter, and for summer I like an all-over pattern of flowers in small print or a thin plain silk, and I think the new thin nylons are absolutely wonderful nightgowns. As for perking me up, well, I think that red is the color that is most effective. ANNA M. ROSENBERG, labor adviser and public relations counsel: Next to hats, negligegs, dressing gowns and hostess gowns are my greatest weakness. After a busy day the first thing I do is change into a gown and find there is nothing that relaxes me more. In negligees, I must admit I like them very frilly and feminine—the more feminine the more they relax me, but my dressing gowns are of very tailored heavy white silk. Since I prefer to entertain at home, I quite frequently wear a hostess

- shades I find most relaxing, pinks or blues.

regard a pretty negligee as “part of the act” on their morning broadcasts. Both confess to a feeling that “dressing up for breakfast” gives them poise before their unseen audience,

Women Speak’ Out on Coats |

Want Informative Labels on Fabrics

Times Special . WASHINGTON, Sept. 24—/ Women conpumers, who spoke| their minds about untrimmeéd) winter coats in a consumer study | sponsored by the American Home| Economics Association, want] more informative labels about ‘outside fabrics in coats. Labels, | “they sald, ought to tell" about] fiber, colorfastness, amount of| protection against shrinking and the finish used on fabrics. Homemakers, students and - home economists expressed their opinions on winter coats as part of the project called “The Consumer Speaks.” Textile and clothing specialists .of the Bureau of Human Nutrition and Home Economics, U. 8. Agriculture De-

partment, co-operated in the project.

The women cast more votes regarding fabric than other features of coats. They want colorfastness, good construction and crease-resistance s fabrics of winter coats, their, = votes showed. They don't want, coat material that will stretch,| * bag, crush or shrink. Some voted! for a hard-finished cloth in! women's coats.

, the women believe,

last the life of the coat—or at|least longer than two seasons: They want colorfast linings, too. Generous seams and hems and workmanship—especially on | ttonholes and pockets — are! among the construction details the women desire in winter coats. | ‘Size and fit of coats concern! these consumers, too. For com-| fort, they want wide, overlapping’ — fronts with an overlap of 4 tol 12 inches. In design—which| was mentioned less frequently than considerations of fabric] quality and. workmanship—the!'-_ women want coats that are! i simple, tailored and feminine. Some of them indicated a desire for full-length coats, for fitted silhouets, collarless necklines for short women, full-length and romovable linings, belts made of self material and sleeves that fit closely at the wrist. !

Kids" Clothes | Copy Adults’ |

| By ELIZABETH TOOMEY United Press Staff Correspondent NEW YORK, Sept. 2¢—From a! fashion point of view, there's no hurry to grow up. The youngsters’ wardrobes this fall have all the advantages of big sister's, A college girl might come home| with the latest thing in a camel! coat, for instance, figuring she'll be the hit of the bleachers at the first cold weather football game] Before the camel coat is even out! of the box she discovers that the

T-year-old next door has one ex-|

By LOUISE FLETCHER, Times Woman's Editor RICH SATINS AND RUSTLING taffetas are important fabrics in fall and winter fashion news. They are among materials which account for. the statement that fabric is the most important element in the coming season's styles. Cracker-crisp taffeta and gleaming satin are most at home in clothes for late-day and evening wear. One New York designer goes so far as to say that neither should ever be worn before twilight, = * oe =. He is- Castillo who desgins for Elizabeth Arden. ‘Tha current rage for satins and taffetas is a fashion to be cherished and prolonged, he thinks. But as a prime sponsor of the use of taffeta and satin in late-day frocks, he has one reservation He shakes his head and says in his soft Spanish accent: “I have one ambition: To have a- special label for sush dresses It.

actly like jt—in a smaller size. will say, ‘Designed by Castillo. Pgison before twilight! Like the adult coats, however, al ‘A fashion as beautiful and becoming as the full-skirted good camel coat even in a i-year-! taffeta or satin dress should become a permanent part of modern

old size is expensive. One manu-!| facturer is making a tiny, double-| breasted camel coat to sell ‘for

dress. But {t will disappear again if it 1s abused by wrong timing.” he continuues “Shiny fabrics, glittering trimming, come to ‘life in the night lights.” : ”

Other small coats are just as vu = =»

wn-up in : FOVBIP In nex 3tyling. but not) . TAFFETA AND SATIN are the fabrics for the two dréSses | Pel en pictured, both from Block's Gown Room. The short dance

gray corduroy with a green and : , i pie Api plald hing. sells __ frock at the left (845) is of navy and green iridesc ent taffeta

for Jinder $20. It has sophisticated raglan sleeves and a button-on P ft B tt tf St hood lined with the same ging- u u : ons. on 10 ay ham : Buttonhole stitches hold better than ordinary

To save clothing, mending, time hole. and temper, put on buttons and Snaps other fastenings to stay, clothing Stitches specialists of the U. 8. Agriculture Zippers bold best if they are Department suggests to the home Stitched on by machine rather seamstress. If put on right in the than:by hand. Stitch the. zipper Ee checked o.. place neither ordinary wear tape to the fold of goods, close or the tiny, .. washing and ironing should to the metal of the zipper, then

| doosen buttons, zipper or snaps. _ trim off any extra fabric to the Gray seems to be a favorite col-| width of the tape and stitch so

or this year for the girls just en-| 1° Put on buttons so they won't ; tering their teens. For under $20 budge, remember to use thread ohere hig Dg loose ends to the 12 or 13-year-old can choose strong enough for the weight of Ope of the newest and most either a simple gray jersey dress the button; to use tape or other time-saving falsteners is the sna with the fashionable knit band reinforcement underneath #f the fastener which is hammered” P at the neck and sleeves, or a silky fabric is thin; and, perhaps most rather than stitched.’ These — corduroy in two shades of gray. important, to arrange for a shank teners now come in light and ~The lighter gray waist has dol- of thread which gives room for paavy weight, plain ey color man sleeves and gold hook fast- the buttonhole to slide under the mne “hammering a oo

enings. button without pull on the fabric. “Cotton broadcloth has been % wie tem,

When sewing on a button, lay a The cl \ : ‘loth , : dressed up with shirred quilting in/pin or darning needle over the {hase op RE caaiists advise

a less expensive teen-age falltop and sew over it. Then withy used fi dress, It comes with a brillant draw the -pin and wind thread a os cand are hese orange quilted skirt combined around the shank underneath. O , .. with a chocolate brown plain/Fasten the thread on the wrong,

Gray Favored Color

Another gray coat for colder days {s made in a fuzzy Stroock fabric with gray and brown shepherd's check wool. wool also 1s used Peter Pan collar.

d-on fastener may strain or break through and leave a hole.

«skirt with a navy blue buttonhole stitch, then with a The waist buttons on to the couple of over-and-over stitches. {of the row of snap fasteners is ‘but the buttons are con-! To make snaps fast, use at recommended to take part of the by a wide tie belt, [least four or five stitches to each) pull and save strain on the fabric.

n thin or fragile cloth-a pound-.

Machine-stitching on both aides

which I wore in a picture and bought from the studio. It consists: of pale blue flannel pajama trousers with a matching, crepe top, long sleeves, and a flannel bolero with notched lapels and buttons Equally as many of the celebrated ladies look on a negligee at the waist. I aiso like a pale blue chiffon negligee with low

gown as a dinner dress, and they are usually in soft, pale gray or black, and the larger the skirt, the mere dressed up I feel =~ JANE PICKENS, singer and actress: When 1 come home, I

> ¥ Pa - re 4 (A we ~ Tew ~ - -

_ SUNDAY, SEPT. 25, 1049

gown of some kind, and since I do a great deal of .my rehearsing at home, I must admit to having very definite ideas about my preferences. My favorite morning robes are of flannel, and I have them in various shades and colors, and these must have threequarter length sleeves and good-sized pockets. For rehearsing I prefer a zipped up dressing gown in princess style, with a very tight bodice topping a full swirl of a skirt. I have them In all kinds of materials, including thick cottons for summer. Since I am usually out for luncheon, I have another type for afternoon before dressing for dinner, These are usually soft fabric in the 1 like clingy fabrics in which to relax and read, and I just love velvet. I feel that fabric and design haye more to do with perking me up than color, and my hostess gowns are usually very “dredged up” creations.

Adores 'At Home' Clothes

MAGGI MeNELLIS, radio commentator: I adore all kinds of “at home” clothes, and the minute I enter my front door, I make a dash for my dressing room and “slip into something comfort able” as the saying goes. Generally, I prefer the more feminine type of negligee, satin, velvet, brocade, chiffon or crepe, with lace wherever possible. I am very fond of tight waists and yery full skirts, My frilly dressing gowns are in pale blue, pink, white, gray and champagne, but since no special color relaxes me or perks me

up, I usually decide the color I am going to wear by the color of “the room I am going to be in.

My hostess gowns are most usually in velvet or taffeta, and for resting, I wear quilted crepe in the winter—aatin or chiffon in the summer. JINX FALKENBURG McCRARY, radio commentator: The more casual my negligees are, the better I like them. I love bright colors, and wear them all day, every day. I like plain colors in styles simply cut but not too tailored. In blue, I like brocade... in yellow, glazed chintz or crinkly taffeta ... and in white, heavy cotton trimmed with eyelet with maybe some red ribbon running here and there. I like a tight waist, a long full skirt and short sleeves, because it gives the appearance of a dress. LILLY DACHE, fashion designer: For entertaining or just relaxing at home, I prefer a skirt and blouse, and the blouse I wear usually reflects my mood. I have a collector's fondness for antique Chinese embroideries, and my skirts are all of these uhusual materials. When my spirit needs a “lift,” I. find I usually put on something white, and my hostess gowns are either all white, or of silk brocade.

automatically slip out of whatever I am wearing into a dressing

Tweed Coats Chic, Warm

Accessories Listed With ‘Look of Affinity’

By EPSIE KINARD NEA Staff Writer i NEW YORK, Sept. 24—The _ [tweed suit, worn with ‘a sweater {or simple woolen shirt and other| ‘accessories with a “look of

a new fall style, | “It's a new mode of dress for . | American women,” says Brigance. | |a designer who has helped to give| [tweed suits their new look of| |town-and-country elegance. | “A tweed suit worn with a sweater,” says Brigance, “dresses women warmly and tastefully, [even without a coat. Like their] |English-lady cousins, whose sub- | urban life is spent in and out] of doors and who also mush 3* through all kinds of weather, ! | American women are finding in {tweeds a new way to cope with winter.”

| Woven in Plaids

| —

|affinity” for tweed, is more thant

HATTIE CARNEGIE, the pint-size czarina of American fashion, is small, blond and electric as a 20-year-old, although she has been married for 30 years . . . and to the same man. She has a rather deep voice and says exactly what she thinks about everything. She ifs impatient of fluff, both in living and in dressing. She almost always wears beige, and is her own best mannequin for her famed “little” suits. She has exquisite small feet and legs, and has more shoes thin she dresses.

. . LJ THOUGH Miss Carnegie has strong convictions on most subjects, she is an avid ques; tioner and spends most of her time listening to the interesting people she takes good care to see frequently. Though any big society event in New York is likely tp look like a Hattie Carnegie fashe fon parade, it is seldom that Hattie herself can be seen

Hattie Carnegie.

Fashion

<| Whether the fabric for their new winter “dress” is as rough) {to the touch as hop-sacking or as {smooth as silk, it's textured in the {best tweed tradition. It has sup-|

. 'pleness and ‘warmth,

“sharp and sure” contrast between patterned and plain tweeds! lin Brigance's suit of red and gray. 2 |The double-breasted “jacket is a checkerboard of red and ‘gray, . ensembled with a gray .turtle-| neck sweater. The skirt is] {monotone red. ! Here are accessories with a! “look of affinity” for his tweed| |suit: A beret of red beaver felt] matched to the red tweed, trimmed {with a pheasant feather, jeweled clip. % | Red calfskin pumps, laced and} vi {tied ghillie fashion; a small, .com-| i from a shoulder strap. | E | —

Events—

Florence Harris of Chester Bar-

There's an example of the Florence Harris of Chester Bar-

112:15 and 2:30 p. m. Ayres’ third-

a! Florence Reichman, New York

pact bag of red alligator, swung Florence Reichman, millinery cre-

there. She and her bluff, hearty husband, Maj. John Zanft, rarely go out except to small dinners or canasta sessions. The Zanfts have a big farm in ‘New Jersey where they raise potatoes commercially, and a beautiful beige-toned duplex ent on Fifth Ave In New York. She collects white Chinese porcelains and 18th century French furniture. ; ee. i HER ROLE as hostess Is equal to her designing talents. She loves food, although she diets rigorously and regularly on week-days. She has a large personal wardrobe, but strictly maintains that this is because she wears her clothes, “forever.” 8he orders only about two costumes a season and wears them day in and day out. ’

TOMORROW

rie In Block's second-floor sportswear department for customer consultation.

rie in Block's second-floor sportswear department. to 4 p. m. Page Boy Maternity Shop. Informal modeling of fall and winter maternity fashfons. : i WEDNESDAY

floor coat and suit department. Modeling of Delson coats and suits in proportioned sizes. THURSDAY

millinery creator, millinery salon. FRIDAY

in Block's

ator, in Block’s millinery salon.

Wears Her Clothes—' Forever’

has

| "Le oO

DING THE CAMPUS

given even more interest by a printed lace motif. The molded bodice has a wide V neckline and short sleeves. Color for the gleaming and supple satin frock (right) is a soft, dusty rose. It is one of .a collection of satins in colors ranging from garnet through muted pastels to platinum gray and blond tones. This one ($39.95) has cuffed bracelet-length sleeves cut in one with the bodice. A rolling shawl collar and

JUST...

$995 |

wing-like shoulder flanges are features of the fitted top. |

NONE PE:

39 MONUMENT PLACE INDIANAPOLIS, IND. .

C “ON THE CIRCLE" J

SHOP ALL DAY

MONDAY | FOR

FALL SUITS OR COATS |

‘SEE OUR COMPLETE SELECTION

shell pump,

STREET FLOOR Ladies’ Department

. %

‘SEE THEM TOMORROW

oh ir v in . -

SPRIGHTLY NEW MAROTT LOWBOYS ... FASHION SHOE FOR LIGHT-HEARTED WALKING OR DANCING ON AIR, FOR TROD.

Dressy lo-heeler in black suede

z ~ || pays to “BUY SHOES AT A SHOE STORE”

MAROTT

OR RUSHING TO MEET YOUR CAREER.

. Twin-fun in a dainty flattie of black suede with two straps.

The pixie style is obvious . . . the comfort is hidden. ‘What's at the bottom of things? A wee little heel, of course. Makes them mighty fitting to wear all day through and on into the evening, And if a short man is your big moment

veo Well—

I18 E Washington St.

—-

| SUNDAY

State Parley Starts Schedule

Governc

A reception Mansion will day's program state conferen Daughters of olution. The s 4-6 In Indiana The opening 1:30 p. m. Tue Hotel Lincoln conference he tiation will be 3pm ' Mrs. Wayne burg, state re , of the state bo ' 2t the recept! , p. m. Mrs, He vice regent, | chairman, As Harold B. Th ‘A. T. Wallace | Thiery. Other bers are regel District, hosts conference, Mrs, Roscoe ville, National fdent general, dress at the sion, Chapter reg trict breakfas 5. Mrs. Thom the northern Mrs. Harry H tral district | 8. L. McKin southern dist Junior men dren of the A luncheons wil Miss Mary E man, state ¢ membership, luncheon, anc CAR state p with senior C nior presiden at the CAR

Socialism Is

Russell I. 1 atcorney, will focialism Col the afternoo The speaker Robert L. K the Lincoln } Harrogate, T Mrs. Bent relations stat ride at the Oct. 8 for ch chairmen. Tk will adjourn A feature ¢

Preceding ings the Offic dinner at 6 Oct, 3, Int} Eugene Pull speaker. M Crandall, sc "by Mrs. Chri give the mus Naw office elected at t officers are } son, preside: well, Ft, Wa C. Kolb, fir presidents; .Covington, Wood, Ridg correspondin Mrs, Walter

Traffic Lists S

James E. Motor Truc! tary, will be first fall me apolis Wom morrow in tt Dinner will | program Ar will follow. Mr. Nicho topie, “The § portation,” for the fut: club will be Tussey, el charge of | gram.

Elect Of

Néw offi Club are J Peggy Whit Sonnie Wo Myra Rus Nina Kirb Ruth Wood are new me

Plan Slun

The Cu-T a wiener ro side Park. ’ tend all th

The men Puffs Club special che their masco Tech footbi

Best Pla

Plant tu stemmed bl from thos breezes.