Indianapolis Times, Indianapolis, Marion County, 1 May 1949 — Page 20

i . . Summer Cost’ ~~ May Be 20% Less ~~ NEW YORK, Apr. 30 (UP)— This summer's cotton dress may cost up to 20 per cent less than it did last year, one retail executive And the woman who's cheering that price reduction has mainly herself to thank for it, according to Mark Lawrence, secretary and merchandise manager of the Cotton Shop, Inc, a six-city chain of specialty shops. "He stores’ cotton

dresses would be priced from about $9 to $40 this summer with many more and better dresses in the lower ranges than there were fast year. The racks of $70 and $80 cotton dresses have dwindled to almost nothing, he said. Even wealthy women have been turn- _ ing up their noses at those price tags, he said.

Cotton Dress Prices

Mr. Lawrence believes most of

$15 and $25 for smartly-styled town ‘and country cottons this summer. They'll be getting about the same dress for which they paid an average of $29 last year. (These price estimates do not ‘q{nclude cotton house dresses, which these shops do not carry. They are made under different manufacturing processes at different labor rates and are, as a result, lower priced than other dresses.) ‘

Lower prices are possible primarily because cotton yard goods prices have gone down.

Cut Edge Off Profits But Mr. Lawrence sald that basic price reduction was the tail end of a chain reaction which started with the price-conscious

competitive business. _ Actually much of the material

was purchased by manufacturers before price reductions were made at the mills. : Manufacturers, and in some cases retailers, have taken an ~—edge off profits for the “catching up” period in order to meet the consumer's demand for fashion at a price, Mr. Lawrence explain

ined. od Things, he said, are getting "back to normal.

*Charge Purchases for this

fis customers will pay between:

eonsumer and has wound up the cotton mill back In

in cotton dresses on sale today

| Only 2 More Days ‘Monday and Tuesday GLASSWARE CLEARANCE

* 20 DIFFERENT

PATTERNS é =

~ 20% fo 50% OFF"

Real Values! Real Bargains!

ALL SALES FINAL!

Statement but will not be due until June Ist,

Ghul Mager and &, omfiany

20 WESY WASHINGTON STREET. INDIANAPOLIS #, INDIANA "

a,

people. "Actually it includes not only

ornamental stitching which the average person normally considers a part of the construction of a dress, 4 Those trimmings, figured into the wholesale cost, run from 11 to 13 per cent of the price of a dress today, Jack Schwartz, executive director of the Institute of Trimmed Fashions; estimated. None of the 25 to 30 different kinds of embellishment turned out by the institute's more than 400. members, is less than 100 years old, Mr. Schwartz said. Most of them date to several centuries before Christ, when people first started wearing clothes. “Women have been trimmed for so many thousands of years, it's hard to tell when it started,” he said. “Even before they wore clothes,

Sale will appear on your May

“*

Trimming Business Existed Centuries Before Christ

NEW YORK, Apr. 30 (UP)—Hidden in six square blocks of Manhattan is a $40 million industry thét émploys some 80,000

They call it the trimming business.

the embroidery, sequins and braid

that embellish a dress but the pleats, tucks, shirring, scallops and

they wore a strip here or there— around the neck or the arm, usually — to attract attention. That was trimming.”

What Egyptians Wore The earliest recorded clothing had trimming, in the industry's sense of the word. The Egyptians of 4500 B. C. had two types of costume -- pleated skirts for royalty, plain skirts for commoners. Pleats are, technically speaking, trimming. « The first recorded braid trim turned up in the tomb of Egypt's King Thotmes IV, about 1600 B. C., Mr. 8chwartz said. The most recent form of trimming is sequins—originated several hundreds of years ago in Czechoslovakia; according to Mr. Schwartz, Two ancient forms of trimming probably will die with this generation, Mr. Schwartz said, because young people can't he interested in training themselves for finicky careers as hand embroiderers or hard beaders. : Mr. Schwartz said the trimming

at

HE CRISP FRESHNESS of

joined the Iinen line-up. They're 1

are natural linen shoes, Then, to mers White costumes, there is

tones of other summer frocks.

Sheers Best For Summer

NEW YORK, Apr. 30 (UP)—

good old-fashioned sheer. Soft voiles and chiffons, crisp § organdies, dotted Swiss and tis-\ sue ginghams are the markings of| one of the biggest fashion booms § in several seasons. Few of the filmy dresses they make are ap- \ propriate for riding the bus to \ work. IN But some of the dark ones will § grace the smartest luncheon spots \ in town; the light ones will

largest group of time and dining standbys w

manufacturers originate the majority of trimming ideas that appear on the nation's dresses.

Source of Ideas The trimming men, however, admittedly get their ideas from the custom designers of France and the United States and a few high style manufacturers. ‘Once a dress is designed—with trimming—it's sent first to a cutter, who gets the pieces cut out and sends them to the unsung trimming man, who puts in the pleats, runs on the sequins, beading or embroidery and sends it back to the dress manufacturer's contractor—-who sews up the

seams. Once in a while there's a dull, { “tailored,” un-trimmed season,

Mr, Schwartz said, but it doesn’t make the trimming men too miserable. The next season, history assures them, is bound to

be big for embellishment.

“Follow

If You Bought Your Drapes On Quality Considerations

Through”

With Quality Cleaning re

BR-2401

her-| ever it's hot, and manywheres it's not. \ The New York Fashion Group, viewing a small selection of the new filmy fashions, was told they might even transform women—

softening the voices, gentling their f gestures and making them more| | .

modest generally. Crispest of -the group shown was the iridescent bronze-green dotted Swiss dress by Mildred Orrick, with a high-buttoned shirtwalst bodice, short sleeves and a full skirt with a single tuck band girdling its hips and dipping to a V in back. A close second was Dorothy! Cox's blue on white printed or-: gandy, cut to show its handsome windowpane plaid as a triangle at back, a square at front, and a full-hanging plaid all around the skirt, with polka dots between the

will be

hover Hours

in sparkling white soft washable glove leather

to be the darling of the designers when they unveiled their spring and summer collections . . . so it's not surprising that shoes have

in color; light and cool on the feet. For wear with the beige tones, which ran a close second to navy in spring styles and promise to be even better for summer, there

This may be dyed to blend with the pastel. .

Many of the sandals worn with graduation=" dance frocks and cotton evening dresses for country club, dances will be of linen. (White

Becoming

The most important new dress of § this summer is going to be ag

\

brighten suburban gardens and \ \ country clubs all day, and the \\ \ all will be tea-|\

. shoes, incidentally, began selling earlier and faster in local stores this year than usual) The strapped linen sandal and the opera pump shown are DeLiso Debs from Ayres’. Both come in natural or white linen and both are available in medium or higher French heels. This is the type suitable for dyeing. The opera pump with its V throatline is $12.95 while the sandal is $14.95. The three leather-trimmed linens are I. Millers from Wasson’s. The linen, of heavier weave than that of the DeLiso Debs, is in natural tone while the calf trim ig the new spring rust. . The flat pump, also with spring’s popular V throat, has a winged calf tip and calf heel and is $14.95. The slipper with broad crossed straps and platform sole in spring rust calf is $20.95. The third model with buttoned-tab detail in spring rust calf is $21.95.

Sunback Frock

{ By SUE BURNETT | Cpol and comfortable and so | practical —a neat, flattering f\! sunback dress for the matron | with crisp white band for con- {| trast that matches the bolero | collar, You'll want to make several. ; Pattern 8441 is a sew-rite perforated pattern in sizes 36, 38,

linen seemed

ight and cool

go with sumwhite linen.

RIO

IN

N

Size 38, dress, 3% yards of 3v< inch; bolero, 1% yards; 13% yards contrast.

40, 42, 44,-46, 48, 50 and 5°;

Hosiery Sizes Are Larger

In answer to the query, “Have women’s feet grown larger since the war period?” Roy E. Tilles, president of Gotham Hosiery, fomes up with some surprising acts.

Sizes 10%; and 11 have shown an enormous increase in demand, while the use of small sizes, from 81; to 9%, has sharply decreased. Between 1941 and 1949, he says, there has been a 25 per cent drop in the production of size 814.

Size 9 has dropped off 4.4 per cent and there has been a decrease of 7.8 per cent in size 9. In size 10 there has been a decrease of 13.6 per cent.

In the same period—the first three months of 1941 compared to the first three in 1949—the production of size 10% stockings increased 38.9 per: cent, size 11 increased 26.7 per cent and size 115, nonexistent in 1941, has now become nearly one per cent of ham's-total production. . Mr. Tilles feels that the increase In selling of larger sizes is large-

_ SUNDAY, MAY 1, 1949

Dirndl Skirt

vi

Is Losing Popularity

Teen-Agers Losing Taste for Flare

dirnd! skirt is taking a back the-closet place in even the teenager’s wardrobe. The summer wares of St. Louis’ young designers, shown at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel here this

week, featured more straight gkirts and slim hips than gathers. The young ladies are

apparently tired of the fullblowing skirt that concealed 8 multitude of bumps. The junior and misses fashions selected from the Midwest city’s 115 manufacturers also indulged in a bit of borrowing from the 192¢’s—which is certainly before the memories of most of their customers and a good many of their designers. 5 . Smartest summer suits in the collection were cottons and rayon shantungs with simply tallored, lo ght skirts,

Cocoa Stripes : A navy and cocoa striped cotton jacket, hip-length, was shown with a plain cocoa cotton skirt. And the low hipline of the costume was highlighted with a handkerchief and flower hanging out of one side pocket. Most “1920's” of the lot was a white tennis dress with a tunic top banded low on the hips above a brief all-around pleated skirt, :

re

length dance dress in cocoa organdy with a band of lace around its hips and a U-shaped neckIne ¥ right out of a knitted undershi

A one-piece play suit in dark gray cotton with yellow and gray bandings around its plain strapped top and trouser legs was somewhat reminiscent of the first stage past the bathing dress.

Sheer Materials

Sheer cottons, organdies and dotted Swiss were featured as importantly as they are in ‘the {older dress market this season— for daytime as well as dancing. Pastel cottons featured inset bandings of lace or crisp organdy. A number of dresses .were shown with narrow collars V-ed to -the waist, with dickies filling in for modesty. One of these was a flare-skirted sailor dress in white pique with a navy and white striped dickey, a navy band on its cuffs and a

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SUE BURNETT The Indlanapotns Times 214 W. Maryland St. Indianapolis 9, Ind. No. 8441 Price 25¢ Sizeseseseeeanses Fashion Book Price 25¢

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