Indianapolis Times, Indianapolis, Marion County, 8 March 1949 — Page 15

Noble Bretzman

Out

- teachers say that

detail,

Mark this line with tailors’ fabric, and stitch along it. And of material you cut as facing for a slashed neckline opening, a round neckline, or a square one, should be cut on the same grain as the part to be faced. Sewing e neckline frequently gives trouble to ama teur dressmakers, because this grain line parallel is disregarded. Success ' with sleeve setting is guaranteed when guesswork is eliminated, by the following of a simple, orderly procedure. First of all, the underarm sleeve seam should be stitched and pressed open. If there are darts at the top of the sleeve, these should be sewed in,

If there are gathers at the

sleevetop, or even if the top of|

the sleeve js plain; it-is-important that you run two rows of loose machine stitches between the notches at the sleevetop. This

Niceties of Finishing T Detail Prove Important in Looks and Wearability

2 By LOUISE FLETCHER, Times Woman's Editor In order to take points and honors in The Times’ $1460 National Sewing Contest judging, a-contestant needs to know and use all the tricks and finesse of garment construction. Important among these are the niceties of finishing

Finishing the neckline; put in the sleeves; ment with shoulder pads are putting I attention. Even if there were no prize incentive, precision at these points pays off in general attractiveness and The pattern instruction sheet will be very helpful, In the matter of finishing the neckline and where there is a pattern piece for a faced opening, the instruction sheet will tell you how to place and how to stitch. The stitching line is often marked with perforations.

-1* A number of the junior gar-

fitting the gardetails calling for particular

chalk on the wrong side of the always remember that the strips

|have used a modified square pad, ‘with a bevelled edge; which gives the suggestion of a sleeve head. But the rounded pad which cupped the shoulder is out.

ment manufacturers asked makers for half-inch-thick pads! last fall, but in re-ordering for| spring, changed the requirement to three - quarter or one-inch} 81 thickness, and a pad length of! (four and a half to five inches. Very thin pads are used only on ensembles, where the firm, small dress pad must fit under a jacket pad. If you purchase pads as you| are permitted to do for any con-| [test entry, yoy have only to look | (for the new pad silhouet, but if) you make your own pads re-| member these dimensions—thickness from one-half to one inch.

easy device will-help you ease the Length of pad—54 inches, if you

fullness of < the sleeve into the! armhole. Work at this juncture with your garment inside out, and the sleeve right side out. Pin the underarm seam of the sleeve to the underarm seam of the gar-

- ment.

- To" Shoulder Seam

Pin’ Top Pry Soove

Then pin the top of the sleeve to the shoulder seam; match the notches and pin. It is wise to insert the pins on the sleeve side. Pin around the sleeve from underarm seam to notches, easing in the fullness of the sleeve evenly. Put your pins very close together, Draw up the two loose rows of machine stitching, so that they gather in the sleevetop enough to fit the armhole loosely between notches and shoulder seam. Ease

in the plain-topped sleeve very

evenly, so that no puckering will show, Pin firmly and baste very close to the drawn up stitching] line. Btitch just inside this line, and do not remove the rows of machine thread. Shoulder pads, this spring, “carry a little more authority than

they had last year. Padding man;

-ufacturers are not providing any of the old upholstered variety,

but they have added more bulk to

season are between one-h one inch in thickness.

th f an

Square pads are popular, and in many instances, dress houses

Are a miss or women's dress size: 4% to five inches If you are junior size,

Use Small Dart For Curve in Pad

dropped shoulder sleeve, take a

"small dart, by hana, in under-thet

side of the pad, at the center, to make it curve. Baste diagonally through all the thicknesses. to keep the cotton batting in place, but do not pull the stitches tight or they will flatten the padding. Fit the pad in the garment while you're trying it on, and pin in place. On garments with set-in sleeves, baste the pad to the sleeve seam, and tack the point of the pad to the shoulder seam. In a dropped sleeve, merely tack the padding to the shoulder seam. Consider, too, that in connection with the Bewing Contest, when the garments are judged, {you will be rated on the suitaany and good taste of such items as buttons, belts and genreral- decoration. Make-a- careful selection. Linings and tape . bindings should be chosen with an eye to color harmony. The size, finishing and spacing of buttonholes will count, too. Make a study of Tthe way in which these details are carried through in the clothes turned out by the best commercial designers.

Times’ Sewing Contest Entrant Registration

Here is my official registration for The Times" National Sewing Contest. I will bring my contest garmen; to the place to be an-|

nounced later in The Times.

ADDRESS

CE EE EE

sssonsrrses PHONG senssacssavons

I plan to enter in the classifications marked below: (Check one or more. You are not obligated to remain in the classifications checked, if you should change your mind later).

18 years of age.

«Standard Pattern Group, or under.

(1) Dress...iivivs —CGlamour Group, no age limit.

Standard Pattern Group, Senior Division, for entrants above (1) Dress—Rayon, silk or woOl.veeeenes (2)-Dress—Cottonvvrrvere

£3} Coat or Bult..eecscss Junior Division, entrants 18 years| (2) Suit or Coat.cvvivees (1) Evening, lounge, beach

wear, etc, from standard pattern or original design.

——Qriginal Design Group, coat originally designed

no age limit. (1) Dress, suit or| by contestant and intended for.

adult or upper teen-age wear.

wee Children’s Clothing Group, no age limit.

children up to 12 years of age. “© Mail to: Sewing Contest Editor Indianapolis Times, 214 W. Maryland St., : Indianapolis 9 9.

They Cost So Little . . .

EE Ey ey a

. o “eo se 600 .

Conic 2.

—for DANCES

—for BIRTHDAYS —for WEDDINGS

This sdvertisement oy members of the Aled Plasista: Assn, in the interest of making Td vi Pores

sesssssssccnsl

| ror in your home because it's: | such a special help in decorat-

If you're making" the pad for a 9

(1) Clothes for) cations in The Times’ $1460 Na

® made from standard pattern. 2.

~for PARTIES .

® wear, made from standard pat-

® eo testants of all

o. Times’ winners place first in na-| . tional judgin o Mditional $100 awards from The

. Also, the Brat place wighers 18 eo the n

By ELIZABETH HILLYER titul ones that belong to the periods of Uaditiond] rooms.

MIRROR, mirror on’ the wall should it be fala pr unframed? . Of course, you want a » Tot

ing—1it works such wonders at making close quarters look spa-

| clous—it's a shining touch that

radiates a luxury look anywhere. We've gone in for acres of unframed mirror for both mod‘ermand period -rooms-with-big-success and we'll keep up the good work. But there is a trend now, too, for more framed mirrors, beau-

ror it's-easier to make the mis- | take of deciding on one that's

Measure the space where the mirror is to go and don’t settle for anything that won't look | important there. A mirror too small for the space, like too small a picture, loses itself and does little for the good looks o

that's

Teen Problems—

By JEAN al STRENGTH OF character is vital t6 success. Naturally! But many people seem to think that “strength” means ruthlessness and boorishness—especially in the small courtesies of daily life. Consider the breezy charac: ter who strides into an office or a home apd slams up all: the windows! And his pompous op-posite-number who whams them down again! Neither considers

Mors. vere. vou shaming to this program ?

the rest of the company, alternately freezing and stifling. The courteous way is to consult others in the room before opening or closing a window or a door. Jdenerally, folks will agree to what you propose. Busy people often don’t notice that a place is overly hot or cold. ; » s » BUT IN case of disagréement, the majority rules. Freshair fiends and draught-conscious

to being voted down. : And another thing! Consult others before turning the radio on or off or changing stations. Nobody likes the joker (a teenager, perhaps!) who tunes-in a ‘burst-of -jazz-during--a--bridge-game or a serious conversation.

List Classes |

In Contest

Here are the judging classifi]

tional Sewing Contest: .

STANDARD FAT TERN GROUP _ (Senior Division): 1.| Dress—Cotton, made from stand-|

EIT TeV EET aid pat, 3 Dress ray |

Say itwith Flowers:

(on, wool, etc., made from stand-| ard pattern. 3. Coat or suit made from standard pattern.

| STANDARD PATTERN GROUP (Junior Division; contestants 18 years of age or below): 1. Dress—Any material,

Coat or suit made from standard pattern.

GLAMOUR GROUP (Contest-| ./ants of all ages)-—"“Bpecial occa-| o sion” clothes such as evening, ® | clothes, lounge clothes or beach-|

{tern or from original design by | contestant.

ORIGINAL DESIGN GROUP (Contestants of all ages) —Adults ® dresses, coats or suits originally) o/ designed by the . contestant ow THOUT use of commercial] ® patterns. f

CHILDREN'S GROUP (Conages) — Gar-| {ments for children up to 12 | years of age, made from standard pattern or originally de-| {signed by contestant. All gar-| ments for children-—even though lof original design—must be

‘ Local prizes in each of the classification are $50, first; $20, | o Sccond. First place winners in| ol the national judging will receive *15100 awards. In addition, if any |

g, they will receive | Times. | are invited their gar‘mod-

‘Show. in

{10 New Yor York -to ments worn by sicie in & Nasional

It Pays to Be Courteous

Or the crab who cuts off the commentator

-folk must reconcile themselves: }

| entered in this group. = 1h

aldorf-Astoria libere they. -p fw.)

While| le Waldorf, (\

in midOr the

appearance.

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: In Cooking we laws. which have been referred to in the

102, they love the Inexpectss in food. -

Polied-potatoes take on- extra appeal when tumbled in butter, shaken enough for their exterfors|to to become meally and are then . |showered with a fine sprinkle of

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THURSDAYS MENUS

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Of course all the laws cannot be covered but it you to check over the most common mitractions—and the therefor. REVOKE: You revoke whe able to do so. A revoke is esta lished when the offender or his {partner leads or plays to the next trick. Penalty: Two tricks, won after the revoke, are transferred to the non-offending side. EXPOSED, CARDS: If you are playing a ‘hand as declarer no card of yours ever becomes a penalty card. If you want to you can spread your whole hand faceup on the table—although frankly I can see no advantage in it. But if a defeuder exposes a card or sees a card of his partner's before ‘he should, that card beJuice comes a penalty card. Such a

iif

you. fail to follow suit If you make any othr partner Hus} remainder - pass, your before and if ing on the han either forbid of whichever DUMMY'’S should not ans play of the hand by suggestion or by touching a card or or in any other manner, However he has a few important rights He can question any other player’ about revokes. He can par-

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clarer leads from dummy (or

FENDER: If this happens when | time—or forever hold your peace. it was declarer’'s turn to lead, declarer goes right ahead | and leads) —and the card led out of ‘turn becomes a penalty card. nd it was the other defender’s

Send questions on bridge to | Mr. Blackwood, The Indianapo-

weight. lis Times, Indianapolis, 9. g

about

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pathological gallbladder?” Answer: This means that the dye given to show the gallbladder up in an X-ray film has not filled this organ as is generally the case.. It raises the question of a dis- icin treatment is being other” ‘symptoms warrant it jest sufficient bid in the same de-| may be advisable to “remove ‘nomination, there is no penalty.| it. ’

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Bscon omelet card must be left face-up and ticipate in a discussion’ about the|'® Jegatat ye he au playéd at the first legal oppor-|laws or about the facts of a case. Soma ne ~ ito’ the alr. It Luncheon i tunity. And he can point out an trregu- | 2° thus be thed in with the Oyster stew larity or attempt to keep ‘one TAY thus be brea Ro Wap FROM WROXG BAND trom For instante, if Air and cause a new infection in & Baked sbpies 8 BY DuCLARES: EO thd Bs his partner, the declarer, is obvi. *Usceptible person. aie ously about to lead from the * x =

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THEY are especially striking 5 {wrong hand, he can speak u and A DIAGNOSIS can be made in in the high style room that com- Candied coconut tei Potatoes Yioe-versa) he must, 2S ye the yin a warning. p the early stages of the disease bines traditional and modern. | Pascal celery y : This is something to remem. When treatment is practically 100 Look at the new framed mir- | pe Riba proper hand 424 in Sqdiios Ne Wer—if a penalty is assessed and Per Cent successtul. The early rors on your next shopping trip | Beverage just lead the same. suit [later found to be incorrect, it stil Sins Of tuberculosis in the lungs ~ but be careful when you |." ,ie pint for each suit, Ton adn ae Kitempted 10 lead before, |stands. So get it right the first can be recognized by X-ray before choose one. With a framed mir- ion to that used in iho day's menus. *| LEAD OUT OF TURN BY OF-| {the development of any of the

turn, declarer can forbid the lead DR. ANSWERS— noted. One is the use of vaccine of that suit or he can treat thé Question: What is the known as BGG. Large numbersof card led out of turn as a penalty {people are now being given this card. He is entitled to think it| TeARIng of an X-ray which vaccine in an attempt to build up over and choose whichever pen-| Shows a “non-functioning |their resistance. It is being tried.