Indianapolis Times, Indianapolis, Marion County, 9 January 1949 — Page 13

By LOUISE FLETCHER, Times Women's Editor

NEW YORK, Jan. 8—Spring and the fashion press will move in on Manhattan Monday. Springtime will be confined, temporarily, to the salons of designers showing their new collections. But the fashion writers will be all over the place as the New York Dress Institute holds its 12th national press week, through Jan. 17. Filling in the chinks around the NYDI program, there'll be an assortment of extra-curricular events staged by other members of the fashion and beauty industries.. Some of the new fashions set to bloom in warmer weather are pictured.’ . ; : Beliciano's “wrapped silhouet” gives a new fillip to a slim suit of Forstmann's navy Milateen. Both jacket and skirt are butfoned pack at the side to give this interesting effect. In front, the Jacket buttons down from a small, high collar and pockets are set in a frame. A low pleat in back gives both a flare and added walking room to the skirt. (The hat is Sally Victor's red and navy dotted silk.) . . . A basic requirement for every smart spring wardrobe is the softly tailored suit. A gray wool one, from William Bass, has a figure-molding jacket with poetic collar, hip pockets, smooth shoulders and a slim, straight skirt, A scarf of red polka-dotted crepe loops casually at the throat. (The white straw tricorne bound in crimson velvet is by Emme.) nu » ~ » . . BIG BLANKET PLAID COATS over the sleekest of monotone -suits is a pet travel theme in the Adler & Adler collection. This season the coat is a gay Forstmann plaid tweed in big squares Of yellow, red, navy and white, Beneath it is a slim suit in a new navy called Biscay. The coat has an easy fullness devoid of superflous breadth, neatly tapered from smooth shoulders and ‘ with a tuxedo shawl front. (The model wears Sally Victor's cloche.) . . . The coat dress walks right into spring, too. Jo Copeland of Pattullo Modes does a version in Forstmann's tropical weight menswear in softly blended beige and brown. The interesting back pocket treatment-—two patch pockets buttoned on either side—and the unusual double-breasted buttoning are focal

THE SOFTLY TAILORED SUIT

points. A rounded hip is slightly indicated by use. of horizontal seaming and a trick unpressed box ‘pleat at the front. White pique forms double collar and cuffs. The mixture of two grays is a spring fashion repeated in every important collection. Monte-Sano handles it adroitly in" crisp yarn-dyed Sandrella, another Fortsmann fabric. A waists length bolero jacket with self-banded scallop cut is posed above an unusual. slim skirt which concentrates soft fullness beneath a U-shaped front yoke. . .. The newest of short toppers for spring is the fingertip coat which can be worn tighly belted or loosely

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flaring. Davidow does a three-piece ensemble in bright polka :

red, using alpaca fleece for the coat and silken Charmeen for the

softly tailored suit with double collar and long slim lines. - The }

coat has a narrow sash belt which pulls it into a dashing tunic when desired. Straight cuffed sleeves and wide lapels add silhouet Interest. » #® ” r » ~

BEN GERSHEL, like Jo Copeland, uses Fo#stmann's més. wear, in featherweight guise, for a feminine cOStime. For a slim coat with back fullness, the fabric is a smooth black and white mixture. It illustrates a leading silhouet: Twin straps across the back belt in the fullness and patch pockets banded in the Same manner are set at an interésting angle. In front are wide lapels above a sleekly . double-breasted buttoning of smoked pearls. (Sally Victor's navy cloche with white cockade completes the costume.) : Because gray is one of spring's leading colors, flannel is a pet of top designers this season. Using Fortuna flannel, Gershel | gives a new twist to the classic double-breasted suit by way of a soft shawl collar and matching cuffs of pure silk navy and white polka dots. The jacket has a scalloped cut in front and the skirt is slightly flared below a smooth hipline. (The hat is Mary Goodfellow’s spanking white turban.) . .. Tone-on-tone is one of | the important trend combinations in spring suits. Davidow does a beige to brown duo in Charmeen. The longer-cut jacket is In beige with the coffee brown tone of the slim skirt echoed on collar, cuffs and underiaps of the pockets.

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