Indianapolis Times, Indianapolis, Marion County, 28 December 1948 — Page 15

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‘TUESDAY, DEC. 28, 1943 :

THE INDIANAPOLIS TIMES .

PAGE 15

"Noted Fashion Designers See Added a And Softer Lines In 1949 Si

NEW YORK—Fororast of x next year's fashions by

leading designers, compiled by the New York Dress In-

stitute:

Fira Bentmsont' For 1049, ‘it's smaller waistlines, bigger Podoma, nan narrower shoulders, and streamlined skirts with detachValentina: 1049 wil bring the kind of clothes f reedom that means you can wear anything you want just so everything you need for three months could be packed into two suitcases. Lilly Dache: Interest wirve at the top, particulatly in sleeves ~and-necklines, -Hats will be a “ornate-and-in- feminine colors. Flowers will be there, but sparingly used. Transparent hats, whether large or small, will be chic. Nettie Rosenstein: It won't be any one shape but a variety for 1049. Every woman can be herself. Shoulders will not be exaggerated in any direction. I've always stressed the small--looking waistline and will continue to do so . .. the idea is’'to Sake A woman look as thin as possible. ens: Lately, a figure has had to work for a dress. In 1949, the opposite will be true. Clothes will be more wearable and less fussy for day, with beautiful colors and unusual fabrics to the fore. Women will have that simple dress that is new locking } ot not too different. They've been wanting that for a Esther Dorothy: The most popular coat for 1949 will again be narrow through the shoulders, and, though slimmer. than has been the case, still on the smock idea. But the fitted coat will come into its own by the end of next year. Herman Delman: I see no radical changes either in clothes or in shoes for 1949. The pump will continue as the leading type of shoe, in many variations but all light in feeling. Sandals in many versions will also be important, all with closed toes and graceful shapes. Richard Koret: The shape of 1949 in clothes and in accessories will be rounded, yet as clear-cut as glass, There will be no fussy trimmings to break the silhouette but a dressy feeling will pervade everything except sportswear. That will be com: pletely unself-conscious and young. Handbags will be light, both

in color and feeling. Their design will be interesting yet compact in line, Tina Leser: The shape of 1049 is based largely on unexpectedly draped skirts and tiny, molded tops. Sometimes, thé skirt drapes up in strange places, sometimes in front, to thie side or back. And sometimes it is straight. Norman Norell of Traina-Norell: Suits will bé straight and

__narrow. Dresses will still have fullness. Large sleeves will look

right, not to widen shoulders but to give flare to the top, minimizing bosom and waist. With this type<of little jacket there will always be full skirts. Skirts will w. shorter and shorter, but never will they return. to the Kne P- 1 believe thin fabrics

“with-crispness-will=be-in-the-

Jo Copeland of Pattullo: Point No. 1 is that we are NOT going back to tight skirts. woman loses charm if she feels and looks confined in her tlothes. There are plenty of slim "skirts, but with conceal motion. Prints simply must have motion, and therefore {ufilness. I also like fullness in after-dark and summer things. ,” . Claire McCardell: I see two shapes for 1949. One is soft and one is stiff. The soft silhouette has up-in-<the-front action; the stiff has a fulV’skirt and tight waist, Both have bustline interest,

and both ® movement, Ben Round shoulders are positively in for 1949. Skirts of suits” will be straight and those of dresses, full. Length will about 13 inches from the floor. Clothes for all purposes will be slimmer for

remain Clare Potter: 049. The essential part of a costume will be form-fitting, the

“movement” in accessories. For one reason, women are more stole-conscious and have found out how Jwear stoles along with hats, handbags and gloves. Designers re making it easy this spring, to put ona dress and forget all about it, something women continue to appreciate in fashion. Mabel and Charles Julianelli: With the feeling of simplicity

flog femininity in clothes, and particularly because of low necklines, footwear will come close to “hardly any shoe at all,” or “held on by a string.” Pumps and sandals will be dainty. The closed toe is good, but in a shoe that has an airy, open look. , Squared toes are going to be popular because of the Empire “trend . . .

the two go together.

Vincent Monte-Sano: The shape will be soft: and grace: with natural looking, only slightly padded shoulders. But ski po ‘will be of several kinds—moderately full, slim and even hobble. A defined waistline, because it is the very essence of femininity and flatters the shoulders as well as minimizing the hips, will stay with us, Vincent Coppola of Deitsch, Wersba and Coppola: Coats will be of two shapes, fitted with a little flare to nip in the waistline; or loose and straight. The line in suits willbe mostly straight with a little flare at the back of the skirt for grace. Shoulders will not be so flat looking, but more natural. Henry Rosenfeld: Four skirt shapes will continue into 1949: the ‘very slim, slim to the knee with flare, the skirt with back

“fullness and that With moderate all-around Tullness:—Waistlines—

remain snug, many with an uplift, and shoulders are either very “thinly padded or not at all. ¥ . . Harriette Harra of Stein and Blaine: The bodice will look precisely fitted to the figure above a very slim or easy skirt, never decidedly full except for evening. Tight little capes and shoulder detail add to the small-at-the-top effect. Adele Simpson: The success story of 1949 will be written around fabric. There will be no drastic silhouette change, yet there will be no lack of variety and freshness, due to the many beautiful fabrics available, which will provide a happy release from the monotony of the old-fashioned “basic dress.” Pauline Trigere: The shape of 1949 as I interpret it does pot differ obviously, from that of 1948. I have always avoided exaggeration and anything that defines the figure too sharply, hence in my collection, one. year sort of slides into the next without anyone's detecting a decided change in silhouette, The clothes I show for next year are very soft in feeling, and with an easy allover look. Iz Jane Derby: 1 think the shape will be slim. Even yardage will fall softly. There will be no exaggeration of any kind, either full or slim. There's one. thing J feel definitely . there'll be no “little. black - dresses.” ‘It- is.an unattractive uniform, and women will feel like being individual next year. Florence Schwartz of International Dress: The Empire silhouette, in the wide midriff interpretation, is very important.

Skirts will have easy swing ‘with fullness starting below ‘the B

ckeood on ride |Ffome With

Make the Most Of Opponents’ Weaknesses

Safe to Overcall Against Non-Doubler - By EASLEY BLACKWOOD MOST OF the information you read on the subject of .overcalls is incomplete. It takes into account only the cards—and not the people. Show ..any. expert, player the South hand shown below and he will tell you it does not justify an overcall of two clubs,” “7 The point is he has mo right saying anything of the kind un7, less he knows who is sitting West.

Neither side vulnerable

No Playroom Is Bedlam

4 R

East dealer A NORTH S-J 10873 H—6 2 D—J 10 6 2 C—K 2 WEST EAST (Mr. Meek) 8-Q 6 4 S—K 9 H—-Q 8 H—-AK10817 D-AQ9%8 D-K17 C-A 854 C87 SOUTH (Mr. Dale) S—A 2 3 H-J.9 54 GIVEN A HOME out a D—4 8 playroom and an activé child, C—-Q J 1063 and what have you? Bedlam, The bidding: ! usually, Paper dolls, jigsaw EAST SOUTH WEST NORTH| puzzles, games and toys of all 1H 2C 2D Pass descriptions are scattered here 2H Pass 2Z NT Pass and there on the floor, and

3 NT All Pass

In the first place, don’t over-|

call at all unless you have a definite and justifiable purpose. Please don’t overcall just because, you have “a trick and a half and a five card suit.” One of the "purposes in overcalling is to get your partner off to the right lead in case your left-hand opponent plays the hand.

Take Advantage

Of Opponents That was what-Mr. Dale, the old fox, had in mind in today’s deal. He wouldn't have dreamed of overcalling if Mr. Champion had been sitting West. - But he knew that Mr. Meek just about never doubles a low contract. Mr. Meek did that once several

Combination bedroom and

walking from one end of the . house to the other—or just through one room—becomes a major problem. However, the difficulty can be. solved quite easily by fixing up the youngster's bedroom +to double as a playroom. There he can strew things around to his heart'sc content without getting in his busy mother’s way. He will more quickly acquire a sense of responsibility

playroom ee designed for the young child.

. spreads and draperies in youthful prints are advisable because they're so easily washed and don’t need to be ironed. An adequate drawer chest for clothing storage comes next and is best placed near the closet. Plenty of low shelf space for toys is important, and the child should be trained to put things’

for his possessions, and with a place for everything, “will no doubt develop into a reasonably orderly child. "oN IN furnishing the room, the bed is of primary importance, of course. Either a youth bed or a headboard bed is an attractive, sensible replacement for the crib. If a headboard bed is decided upon, it is wise to select one with leatherette upholstery for easy cleaning. The main thing, however, is_to be sure the mattress, spring and pillow are well constructed of good materials and firm enough to give proper support to growing bones. Seersucker bed-

through with them. A small table with a couple of chairs, a juvenile desk, and perhaps a bulletin board to display his latest drawings make the playroom quite complete—a perfect place to have a wonderful time Reithout getting under mother’s eet.

The Doctor. Says— Gout Remains

By EDWIN P. JORDAN, M.D.

years ago and it happened that| It is said that gout is one of

the bid was made. He has been, frightened “ever since;“IEW. Meek ‘had doudleq + two clubs it wouldn't have been so good for, Mr, Dale. As you see

he would have been able to win|was’ supposed to be rare in North o’

_ only four club tricks and the ace “of spades. partner: ds he shown up with the king of clubs, it would have béen But look how the hand actually worked out. The onty-iead in-the world that will beat three no trump is the king of clubs. And North would have to be a miracle man to make that lead without a club overcall from his partner... “Mr. Meek held up the” Hce~of -clubs until the third round. Counting up-he found that he had only —six-more tricks he could run without letting the opptnents regain the lead—three top diamonds and three top hearts. He properly 5 went after his longest suit first— hearts. When they didn’t break Mr. Meek was down two tricks. S80 here is anather lesson in Humanics. Learn the weaknesses of your opponents and take advantage of them.

Send your questions on bridge to Easley Blackwood, The. Indianapolis ‘Times, Indianapolis 9.

DR. ANSWERS—

QUESTION: I am 13 years old. Is there any way that I can grow three inches Jtler® ANSWER: I wish I could Vitve encouragement, Neither i foods, vitamins, gland products, or anything. else incréases the height. However, most girls who are 13 grow ' some and boys grow a great deal.

- J. |

& » © QUESTION: I Ave heard ‘that if oné' drinks a glass of buttermilk every day, weight will be lost. Is this so? How about grapefruit? ANSWER: Nelther buttermilk or grapefruit contain many calories but they do have some. If they are substituted for foods of higher calory content, weight will ~ be lost; if they are added to the regular diet, they’ will

Pown--500,-And... if}

the most painful of all human dis-|

and writings of English literature, until 15 or 20 years ago it it is

| America. Unfortunately,

things about. it. which one would think would give a clue, It isalmost entirely a disease of men.

the disease as bad as that of men,

Overindulgence in food often {seems to hringon an attack} Many. patients with ~ gout reports” an exceptional -meal before the first Httack.

Call Purines Dangerous To Gout Victims

Gout is associated with certain foods stances called purines. Liver, sweetbreads, kidney, squab and calf’s tongue are rich

contain. Other foods like sausage, beef, pork, veal and several kinds of fish also have a lot of purines and are not safe for the sufferer from gout. By proper knowledge of diet and sometimes by the addition of one or two drugs, it is often possible to prevent attacks of acute gout or at least to make them come less often.

‘Start at Top ‘When Shopping

If you are buying several different items in a large department store, an efficient and timesaving way to shop is to start with the itfms that are sold on

. {the upper floors and work your

way down to the street floor. By doing. this, you eliminate unnecessary trips up and down

‘eases. Although familiar to nearly| reveryone through: the: cartoons

more-common--than. was. thaught.|. ~§ | The cause of gout is not known | although there are several curious|

The few women who have it may develop d severe chronic stage of|

which contain sub-| .

in the amounts of purines which they,

Times Pattern Service

{Every Meal

{all of their assets ~{good source of-iron;-and-they-con-

back 7 in place when —he—is;{—

Let's Eat— Designing Woman—

Dates Have Their Place in

But as time goes on most of us find ourselves stuck with wrong - sized pictures, bric-a-brac gifts from people we love more for their generosity than for their taste, sets of bridge

Contain Iron, Bulk As Well As Sugar By META GIVEN ~ DATES are one of the sweetest a of fruits—they're sweet enough : ’ to satisfy tne craving for candy. But energy-giving calories is not They -are a’

tain more bulk than most fruits, which fs something to Reep an| eye on when planning diets, While /dates furnish calories, iron” and cellfiose, they do lack - certain nutrients.” Used in com- rem bination with other foods, how-| , BAH ever, these deficienties are sup- fr Vo " 4 plied. For instarce, the popular . nam : Use of dates stuffed with cream Prize ashIenys, Al noes cheese in salads makes nutri- room is fu P Bony ea the tional good sense. What dates and Jany o tion rather than lack is supplied by the cream] Tu decoration cheese which is rich in protein,| "©.P ia fat, phosphorus, calcium and vi- NOW is a very good time to tamin A.

check rooms at your house to Dates nave a place in every See if clutter has gotten the meal of the day. Add them| upper hand. chopped to cooked cereals for|. a8 8 ./ breakfast or to bran muffins,) NOW, while you are placing sandwich fillings, breads, or the] Christmas plants and fitting in [¢ookies on your list of luncheon| the new lamp and the new picideas. At dinner, serve filled] ture, make it a point to look at dates with other fruits for a salad| rooms with an outsiders’ eye. plate, or a date pudding, “date Would the room be handsomer torte or date cake for dessert.| If half the -accessories in it And dates stuffed with walnuts,| were lift out? . then rolled in sugar make a treat| Good decorating isn't always good for children (as well as an| addition — sometimes it's subexcellent substitute for candy at| traction. And if you want to

your club parties). _ THURSDAY MENUS Men and Women—

Breakfast 0

Gra apefruit halves Rendy- to-eat cereal ith Stam or top milk Boft-cooked Toasted English muting. “with Jelly

Luncheon

Browked slices of canned corn beef hash od gre ens with French dressing ye, rolls and bute er -nut brea Sen a

By ERNEST E. BLAU ECAUSE I'M a male it pains me deeply to write

but my very pain, I'm afraid,

ae i

Diner man’s tender spot is his ego— Ro para and don’t the women know it!

Creamed white onions Apple, nut wr cottage cheese salad Brod and butter Chocolate sundae Milk tb drink: ob quart ud each-child; | one pint for each adult, in addition to that used in day's

A man can ridicule a woman —and she may get a little irritated, but as a rule-she’ll shake it off and bounce back . like a rubber ball.

2 = =a : { DATENUT BREAD... { o.F0t let & woman make fn

1 6-0z. pkg. pitted dates (1 ¢) % ¢ brown sugar, pressed down firmly

menus.

of something he says or the way he brushes those three strands of hair across his

| periment until you've organized

| dress Miss Hillyer, The Indian-

hips,~or will Ye designed with peg fronts, Shoulders will be round, necklines low, 2 Adrian: My collection for 1949 will aim to keep clothes full of imagination—but with the editing that modern living imposes

upon. women. today. In other words, clothes for an interesting,

practical and varied life. A fashion whim, like candy, can make you sick if you take too much... it can also delight you if you choose it wisely. 4%

Hattie Carnegie: Simple, tailored clothes will. be worn for #

diytinfe . . . for evening, the clothes will have. great allure, fragility and decorativeness. Samuel Kass: The slender line,

with narrower skirts, is

4n-demand-now.and will continue into 1949. with the exception =

of afternoon dresses. Shoulders will be a bit dropped and a bit sloped. Waistlines will be normal. Wesley Simpson: I'm sure about just one thing, and that is that fabrics, no matter how glamorous, will be -light and gos+ samer-looking. Partly, it's due to our way of living, air condi+ tioning and so on. Specifically, polka dots are going to be particularly good. . Herbert Sondheim: It's rounded shoulders, a defined waist« line, and a moderately full skirt for 1949. Sophie of Saks Fifth Avenue: The slimmer look is attractive again. I've never liked very narrow shoulders and will continue to use slight padding with the straight silhouette, Sally Victor: The spring look is very crisp . . . never top~ heavy. Hats will therefore have a close affinity for the head, with no experimental flights about them. Last year and the year before we took anything and added lots of flowers to it. That'sall- “old hat" now, supplanted by the clean cut outline, Brooke Cadwallader: As a designer of fabrics, ‘I feel that with the exception of suitings, the general tendency will be more toward the feminine in both coloring and pattern. Those prints which are complemented by the sweep of soft drapings will prove most successful. Oleg Cassini: I foresee clothes tailored almost to severity for daytime, and evening clothes of fairy tale fantasy. Clothes, too, will dividle—dark and basic for day, the whole rainbow at “night,

We, the Women—

Time for Checking Clutter Clever ‘Wife

By ELIZABETH HILLYER CLUTTER HAS a way of taking over a room when you're not looking. You started with a good room plan, you fitted in what you had thoughtfully, and at first there might have been | bare spots where accessories really were needed.

Talks Shop’ Sr a SHE = With Hustand

careful thought, Plan and ex- . Doesn’t Disclose

Business Secrets By RUTH MILLETT NEA Staft Writer “I THINK any woman is unlucky if she isn't able to talk business as an equal with tne men of her family.” That's the opinion of a woman who ‘was a dir oF of her fame fly's busine:s until she stepped aside

them into groupings rather than them scattered about.

Have you sent 40# your copy of Elizabeth Hillyer’s new book- | let FURNITURE. REFINISH- | ING HOW TO DO IT YOURSELF? Learn how to restyle and reclaim furniture with beautiful finishes —even what to do about finish repair. Ad-

good decorative leave

apolis Times, " Indianapolis 9, and enclose 15 cents, with a

stamped, self - addressed en- to make room velope. for her fwo sons in the - Woman. Conducting the Prayers at Harvard course, When

3 a wife can't: talk shop with . Ruth Millett her husband intelligently both are losers. .

BOSTON—For the first time since dally prayers were instituted at Harvard University 312

years ago, they are being conducted by a woman. ~The daily chapel attendant is Dr. Helen Maude Cam, first woman member of the Harvard faculty, who oc-

cupies the Samuel Zemurray Jr. and Doris Zemurray Stone-Rad-

But a woman whose husband

does discuss his business with =~

her must remember a few . things, . One is to refuse to discuss her * husband's business with others. It's a simple matter to turn

~ | Man Hates to Be Ridiculed

on this distasteful subject—

proves ihe facts are true: A

-of --a--man—whether because...

aside even a direct question ‘with, “You'll have to ask him about that.” Ee

» » 2 TWO is to talk business only - when her husband wants to talk business. The wife who pries, and who continually worries out loud about business, is" bound to make a man feel he can’t find peace even at home,

cliffe chair of history. Admission of women to chapel leaves only one male sanctuary at the university: That is the press box at the stadium, where William J. Bingham, '16, athletic director; bars the door to women.

Yai A woman is usually of” much more help to her husband if she is content to discuss a ‘matter; bringing to light any angles she thinks he may have overlooked but leaving a final decision to him, than if she says,” “I think you ought to to do 1 such-and-such.— Four is to de none of the credit when an idea she has thrown out is tried and found successful, and to avoid any “I-told-you-so’s.” ¢ It's a lucky woman whose husband‘ trusts her judgment enough to ‘discuss his business with her. And it's a | husband whose wife never lets him down by forgetting these important points.

‘bald spot—and boy, does he see _red. Making use of this Vile able spot, as every girl over seven ws, is one of the easiest ways for a female ad win a male. 2

A WOMAN psychologist offers this further suggestion for influencing a man where he’s most vulnerable. _ She says, “Learn, if you can, what he's afraid of. Learn what makes him mad. Learn his Smbitions, © what he hopes to be, what. of. " There Yad have his main weaknesses and yearnings in the hollow of your hand.

% c butter or margarine .

° o

By MRS, ANNE CABOT Cunning toeless bootees and “a ‘cute bib are crocheted of white cotton trimmed with your. choice of blue or pink. Quickly and easily crocheted, the set will remain good-as-new and sparkling fresh after countless tubbings. Pattern 5673 includes complete crocheting instructions for bootees and bib, material. re-’ quirements, -stitch illustrations and finishing-drections. To order, use the coupon.

By SUE BURNETT Pattern 8180 comes in sizes 6 months, 1, 2 and 3 years. Size 1,

dress, 1% yards of 39-inch; rompers, 7% yard; slip and pantie, 1% yards. The latest fall and winter issue of Fashion is filled ‘with ideas for a smart winter wardrobe. More Designer Original patterns, fabric news and a free pattern printed in the book. To order pattern or our Fashfon Book, use the coupon,

ANNE CABOT The Indianapolis Times

SUE BURNETT ! The Indianapolis Times

3% c¢ boiling water

3! 11 88, beaten

jiusing kitchen shears. ‘4 with brown sugar,

| Stir | Meanwhile, (and resift three times with salt

‘Lastly, fold in nuts, Turn into a || |well-greased-bread- loaf pan; +x |8%x2% inches.

{degrees F.) for 60 to 70 minutes.

Be 1. 1

| have little effect on the weight.

resident of Seattle, Wash,

elevators and are less likely to 214 W. Maryland St. 530 S. Wells St. Ort hems ot Jose wrapped-up Indianapolis 9, Ind. Chicago 7, Ill. -— - No. 8180. | Price 25¢.| No. 5673 Price 20c 3 Millionth in Legion |. = N iy : MIAMI, Fla. — Mrs. Marjorie Sebastes aNsReasstnn Es AINEG sovssvess ssssssscassssnes Deland, 24, a former WAVE, I'e-|sccecescessasenssecsssnsssnscnce|easnscsvescssnssens

cently became the 3 millionth Le-! gionnaire of 1948 when she joined Frank Cavanaugh Post in City seswn esas unsentsnsnnnnnnnns

Miami.

sss ssssssienes

Street Sides entenasasnsnnnsnnnse

is ® former State ceeees eenessreranenanranils

Street sciesvecrvssrnnese svsiion

34 ¢ chopped: walnuts or-pecans

Cut dates into four pieces each, Combine! butter and | boiling-water- in a mixing bowl. | thoroughly and let cool sitt flour, measure

‘beat and fs i

Bake in a moderate oven (350

Place a loaf pan of the same size | over the pan ~ontaining the bread! mixture for the first 20 minutes, then remove. (This covering pan! prevents the- loaf from cracking during baking.) When done, turn out onto al cake cooler, and turn right side up| (immediately. Cool before slicing. | Serves eight to 10.

YOUR MANNERS—

Situation: When you are hostess to a group the conversation gets on a topic and stays on it so long the talk is getting dull, Wrong Way: Let it go°“on, until someone else brings up another subject Right Way. As hostess, realize that it is your duty to guide the conversation—so | change the subject yourself. Situation: You are getting .'| ready to leave a party given

in honor of an out-of-town visitor or a newcomer to the community. Wrong Way: Bay “Goodbye” only to your host and hostess. | Right Way: Make it a point | to say good-bye to a guest . of honor.

Victoria Sheltered

LONDON~~Until Victoria became queen of England, she was

KIRK—ROSE ...... $23.00

: State SesNssbagesnnnan Nets nntes ty Sassen sRRIIIee shessssseite

never permitted to talk with any adult unless “her mother .or her | governess were present, |

wah 2X0 Cluistmas Check inte

Deferred Payments Easily Arranged

Bharkes Mayes and i 0

— WEST WASHINGTON STREET INDIANAPOLIS 9, INDIANA.

CHARLES MAYER “AND COMPANY ni

Select your pattern from a versatile array of patterns such as Charles Mayer and Company offers.

Prices listed are for a place setting, consisting of 1 knife, 1 fork, 1 teaspoon, 1 salad fork, 1 butter spreader, 1 cream soup. spoon. :

Prices Include Tox BUTTERCUP ...... $25.00

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lucky