Indianapolis Times, Indianapolis, Marion County, 15 September 1947 — Page 14
“w
Beg
' Wardrobe. Can Be Smart
THE INDIANAPOLIS TIMES _____ ‘The Reason | Behind Change
i today if the economists had known
- reputation that this country's women have for dressing smartly can
fits were measured by that yardstick.
The gray yarn-dyed wool, loose- swinging coat (left) also has deep cuffs and a flat collar of gray fur #0 make it
wearable with various’ costumes. (Ayres'.)
A pin-checked wool suit (right) has a trim look that will carry it through several-seasons. The sleeves have turned- back cuffs and a row of buttons Climbs from the waist to a neckline finished with a stand-up band. (Block's.)
v nr » ~ By LOUISE FLETCHER, Times Womai's Editor HER INCOME, DURING THE WAR, didn't reach the astronomical heights of some workers’. And since then, in most cases, it has climbed pretty slowly in comparison with the costs of room and board and all the etceteras listed in her budget. Yet, a great part of the
be traced to her. She is the career girl who holds down a “white collar” job. With that kind of job she has to look attractive and welldressed, even though her budget may be most limited. She does it, too! It takes careful planning, but she manages to streamline her wardrobe to match her life. She finds durable and practical but pretty clothes to see her through busy days at the office and social engagements at night, HB ® ” n n » THE WAY SHE DOES IT is by taking a good look into her clothes closet at the beginning of each season, The closét holds good leftovers from another season, because she makes her major purchases with an eye to their wearability for more than one season-—more than one year, even. She gets the holdovers out, freshens them up and counts them in when she makes her calculations, She keeps basic accessories (shoes, bag, gloves) in mind as she selects her new wardrobe additions, When she decides how much to spend for each outfit, she wisely allows more for a winter coat or suit. Naturally, she won't be replacing both*within the same year. A suit is the basis of an interseasonal, {nterchanigeable wardrobe. This year's suit is first to hang on next year's clothes tree. It carries over from ohe season to the next and | may be dressed up or down for office or date. Two suit types are generally best for the “capsule” wardrobe. The classic Glen plaid or check in muted shades takes readily to colorful | accessory changes, and it 1s as _Well-mated with sweaters as with
or office |
CHOSEN FOR MORE THAN ONE YEAR' s WEAR Cost of the "big" fHoms in a career girl's Soe
spread over a two-to-three-year clothes budget, so they are chosen with an eye to lasting smartness. These two out-
| blouses. | lines and in a dark or monotone fabric.
{ -flage. She plays up her good points and shops for simplicity of design | in the lines that are most becoming to her face and figure.
eo
|accurately foreseen what
In Styles Skirts Long Business By BARBARA BUNDSCHU United Press Stall Correspondent NEW YORK, Sept. 15—There'd be no revolution in women's styles
Because
last spring which end of a hoom
| lwas up.
That's the opinion of Lew Hahn, president of the National Retail
an article for the N. R. D. G. A's official publication, “Stores.” The new styles, Mr. Hahn points out, were dreamed up while some
economy thinRers were loudly cry-
ing “wolf” on a serious business recession. The fashion business’ response was true to form (a form which Mr. Hahn stoutly defends as essential to a free economy): Get something new to tempt the customer to buy the dress to pay the store to meet the payroll to give somebody else enough money to buy a dress, or a ham sandwich.
'They Wouldn't Have Had
Some Price Squawks' If the they were heading into boom instead of depression, Mr. Hahn says, it is probable that they would have left their very good business alone. They could have coasted along with
of money.
with quite the same about prices that they're getting today. Normally new styles don't cost any more thin old ones, even when they take more fabric, Mr. Hahn points out. The probable answer to the high prices on today’s new fash-
| |long, 1s that the prices ould have|. ‘been 3
higher “even” if “the "styles hadn’t changed. But that makes it a bad time to try to make last year's dress obsolete. With all those strikes against it, there's still some hope for the industry, however, Mr. Hahn said. If the new styles do go over it will prove the dressmakers “have women
1f she prefers a dressier suit, she still Piohs os with simple
Her coat is chosen to team, well with the rest of her wardrobe, | in color and fabric. Usually it's a simple, well-tailored style, roomy enough to wear over suits as well as dresses, and classic enough to last two or three years. Before she buys anything, though, Miss Career Girl sizes herself up in a mirror; recognizes her faults, and then goes in for camou-
Quality is an even more important item to the girl who plans a limited wardrobe. Her clothes have to get more mileage. So she studies up on fabrics. When she shops, she examines materials, asks questions of clerks and selects fabrics which stand up in wearing and in cleaning. She can't afford to buy a suit or dress that doesn’t hold its shape or which bags or wrinkles easily. As for color, she has to choose carefully, not only to harmonize with her complexion but to blend with other things in her wardrobe. The life of each dress or suit can be extended and its personality changed with accessories, so she sometimes indulges her love of color in accessories.
» o » » » LIGHTWEIGHT WOOL FROCKS can double for office or date and they, too, may serve through three seasons, worn with or without a coat. The basic black dress she finds a lifesaver, and she’s clever enough to change its appearance with a piece of jewelry, a bright belt, . a few flowers tucked at the waist, or a brilliant scarf draped at the neckline. (She even keeps a spare accessory or two right in her desk drawer in case of sudden invitations.) Whole secret of her smart appearance is that she does some business-like planning before she ever sallies forth to shop. She may not have a wardrobe so extensive as that of a debutante, but she's
Aquatic Biologist
+ EO —— erin
Way Back When Separtment. Safety pins, introduced in Greece by the Dorians in 1100 B. C., were not such a lowly plece of household | equipment then as now. They were in made of precious metals and were worn as jewelry.
Y y Color Contrast For color contrast, serve cereals brightly colored dishes rather than white or cream-colored ones,| if possible.
[= eR oS
©ORHAM STERLING SILVER
’ PATTERNS PRICED BY PLACE ‘SETTINGS tl
| pretty sure to be well- Sreesy and well-groomed for any occasion,
~N SOCIAL Leaves Service SITUATIONS NEW YORK—No woman has at-| : y yo tained so prominent a place in the Wishing Tn field of fish conservation as Dr. |{ is another member of your | Emeline Moore, chief aquatic biolo- | household at home. gist of the New" York state conser-| WRONG WAY: Pick up the vation department, who recently repaper and sit down to read it. tired from active service. RIGHT WAY: Offer all or The only woman ever elected] part of the paper to the other president of the American Fisheries | person. Society, Dr. Moore supervised the| first! pathological studies .in fish] diseases made by the New York|
Headquarters Fer 4
Let's Meta.
Eat 4 Given
NOT ONLY OAREER WOMEN but those busy with homemaking | often get an urge to invite a few friends in for a meal on very short | notice, But thoughts of having so little time to prepare a meal that | would be delightful and nourishing, without becoming harried in the | process of tedious cooking, suddenly quench many hospitable spirits. With a little imagination and very little work, it is easy to concoct
unusual, good and attractive meals, Here are some suggestions | Sanne red Rn haan ives
for quick dishes: Creamed chipped beef and mushrooms on peolieds Wnatish salad with-og-toast (recipe below); chilled
a ew CREAMED CHIPPED BEEF AND MUSHROOMS ON TOAST
(For Tuesday luncheon) Heat chipped beef slices in
| butter until crisp. Make a cream sauce using the butter remaining | in the pan and evaporated milk. Add chipped beef and a small can of mushrooms. Reheat. Serve on hot toast and top with slices of pan-broiled tomato. i | RORY RE \ WHEAT-OAT COOKIES
(For Wednesday luncheon) c. cake flour
tsps. baking powder tsp. soda tsp. cinnamon tsp. ground cloves tsp. nutmeg tsp. salt ¢. shortening C. Sugar egy to '; ¢. buttermilk | % c. old-fashioned rolled oats 1 ©, seedless raisins | Sift flour, measure and resift ll | three times with baking powder, | soda, spices and salt. Cream shortening and sugar; add beaten | egg, and stir until blended. Add flour mixture alternately with milk | (use larger amount of milk in
with ‘mayonnaise into which has been folded whipped cream;
halves of peaches in lettuce cups : |
»
GF = = oe
PRENPEN o 3 TF Ea aa)
| winter; smaller amount in sume . J | mer) in three or four portions. [""""""""" 4 Ploos Selting Consists oft" ~ (@ | ‘Then stir in rolled oats and I Luncheon Knife | Teaspoon 1 Butter Spreader | | ais. Drop Ww Susioniis | Luncheon Fork | Salad Fork I Cream Soup Spoon sheet, keeping cookies-uniform in z shape and height. Bake in a moderate oven (350 degrees F.) A. Dubbercup—$122.50 B. Comellia—$23.00 €. Shearbourg—N.00 for 10 to 12 minutes or* until 0. English 50 E Grosnbrier—09.00 ye Hicaly browned, ir Makes from five to six doen Tax Included | ‘cookies.
Moll and Phone Orders Carefully Filed
Gail
. -
i on i 4
The' first ice cream soda was! \ served by Dolly Madison in the Jif ‘White House in 1813. Since that! ane fou time ice cream has so increased in| Eopulazity that in one recent - bi : y alone, more than 700 million 29 West Whbiogtan “4
Dolly Started Sodas
|
were consumed in the United
Ly . { i .
{ milk bottles.
| might remind her that she ought
| that new face cream, or give her | hair the 100 brush strokes a | | beauty editor advised.
have wanted, even before they have recognized their own desires.”
‘We, the Women— An Invention
That Won't
Help Women
By RUTH MILLETT NEA Staff Writer
AN ELECTRIC light that stays |
on- long enough after the switch is turned off for a person to undress and climb into bed is one of science’'s latest luxuries. Announcement of the inventfon of this aid to the lazy life didn't how many minutes its inventor figured it takes a person to undress and get into bed. But however long it is, it won't be long epough for women—not if a man invented it. For a woman, the time between kicking off her shoes and climbing into bed may take anywhere from five minutes to an hour. In the middle of the undressing
elt Short .
Dry Goods association, expressed in|,
businessmen had known|
last year's dresses and made plenty |
And they’ needn't have put up| squawking |
Fabric Shor
|" By 8. BURTON HE NEA Staff Correspondent
NEW YORK, Sept. 15.—A criti«
fabrics may go a long way toward slowing down the sudden plunge of hemlines, Fashion's decree for the longer,
reasons. The style cycle was long overdue for a change after wartime restrictions.. Designers wanted women to buy new wardrobes. And there was no place for skirt-lengths to go BUT down. In the cutting rooms, though, the experts say if the new styles prevail there will have to be 27 per cent fewer dresses on the mar« ket, for there isn't enough material right now to satisfy demand even for the shorter, slinkier styles. And if the nation’s 50 million women go along with fashion's decree, the resulting competition for an under-supply of fabrics will drive dress prices up as the hemlines come down. Philip Meyers, president of Fashion Frocks, Inc., of Cincinnati, summarized the opinion of many experts. v “Despite the fact that women | are due for a change in styles, I feel that this is the wrong time for a change, because of the shortage of textiles of all kinds, and the exorbitant prices.” The fabrics used in the dressier. | Trockiing eat Taso He sists on lengthening and dressing up with all sorts of gores, pleats, peplums, paniers, wide revers, draperies, sashes, cuffs, flaps and bustle bows—already are selling at a premium of 25 to 50 cents a yard, Mr. Meyers says.
Effect of Droughts The U. 8. used 600 million pounds of wool before the war. It would use 900 million pounds this year—if thas much were available. But a series of droughts killed off between 30 and 40 million Australian sheep. So, now we must depend on a domestic clip of 250. million pounds, plus whatever the commodity credit corporation releases from its stock pile, plus what we can get from Australia at prices which one buyer privately describes as “insane.” \ | More rayon yarn is bing made | than ever before. |
| Textile Monthly says the U.S. { produced 850 million pounds last
cal shortage in rayon and wool
The Rayon |
bulkier dresses had three good.|
year and will spin 900 million pounds this year. There are also 100 million pounds of nylon that weren't around before the war. These total one billion pounds of this type of yarn—10 times the amount of silk the couniey. ever
a a
up by a bottleneck of indecision. Manufacturers of knitted and woven fabrics can't make up their
chiffons and crepes, fancy taffetas and other high-style fabrics, or for the more staple, utilitarian varieties. These manufacturers say they took an awful beating when they loaded up during the war with uniform cloths and then were left holding the bag. They claim they can’t afford to take another chance. - So the enormous yarn supply does American womanhood no good at all until it is made up into fabrics. For the winter season, rayon, nylon and wool are the important fabrics. The Cotton Textile institute says there is no shortage
| | | | | | |
of cotton, overall, though buyers are paying premiums for quick delivery. The institute says this is because buyers were afraid of a consumers’ strike last spring, and
process she is likely to remember that she forgot to put out the |
» » » OR A critical look in hér mirror
to put in a few pin curls, try out
It isn't even unusual for a woman to decide ta try on her new hat after she is in her nightgown. And the family bathroom is mute testimony to the fact that a woman often stops in the process of undressing to carry her stockings and underthings into the bathroom for a quick sudsing. 80, if the new invention is to be of any practical use in a family, it really should have two switches—one marked “M"” and the other “F.” As any husband will testify it takes the female of the species at least three times as long to get ready for bed as it takes the male.
TEEN TOGS—An asymmetrical closing is a feature qf this | two-piece beige wool outfit modeled by Joyce Jones, | Joyce, a Howe high school jun-
{
By SUE BURNETT
An attractive, wearable
to your now-through-winter ward-
parted by shoulder shirring, a narrow belt spans your waist ever so snugly. Pattern 8212 is designed for sizes 84, 36,.38, 40, 42, 44, 46 and 48. Size 36, three-quarter sleeves, 4% yards of 35-inch. For this pattern, send 25 cents, in coins, your name, address, size desired, and the pattern number to Sue Burnett, The Indianapolis Times Pattern service, 214 W. Maryland st., Indianapolis 9. Ready for you now--the newest issue of Fashion. Send today for your copy of this inspiring fall and winter issue. Fashion tips, Specia) features, free pattern printed inside the book. Twenty- -five cents.
Caramel Crunch Combine three-fourths of a cup
ior, is & member of the A. N. A S. club. foie sl
two- | piece dress to add tailored charm |
robe. Atouch of softness is im- |
Times Pattern Service
. By MRS. ANNE CABOT To obtain complete crocheting instructions, and stitch illustra tions for a prizewinner doily (pattern 5507) send 16 cents in coin, your name, address and the pattern number to Anne Cabot, The Indianapolis Times, 530 8. Wells st., Chicago 7.
A GOOD BUY
Especially NOW!
You can still buy a g e nuine COOLERA. TOR Ice Refrigerator at a very reasonable price . .. and g
formance. Better stock of moderately
POL
317 W. 164 St.
SR a na A +
But this at radian is held
minds whether demand will be for’
didn't order for future needs. Now they have ound that, while the consumer may grumble, she still is buying at whatever the price may be. So the buyers are rushing to get cotton and have the manufact Against this of scarce materials for winter dresses, particularly, comes the new style, with longer skirts, wider hems, and often almost unbelievable “sweep. During the war no skirt could . ‘have a sweep—that is, a circum~ ference around the hemline greater than 72 inches. When restrictions went off, the sweep still was held down for economy and to make materials go farther. But today the new styles have virtually no limit. One collection features a- wool ensemble with a skirt 185 inches around at the hem, and a rayon evening gown of black taffeta and net that has a skirt 10 yards — 360 inches — around. There is a theater dress of silk whose. skirt has a 340-inch sweep.
100-Yard Dress
Another collection includes an evening dress made from 100 yards of nylon tulle. Not only is the skirt's sweep enormous, but the whole dress is built up of layer upon layer of the almost (eansparens. ny , in various ‘Besides sading — ahd full- , ness, the new styles are ornate with decorative doodads of the sort that were forbidden, or strictly limited, during the war— all of which take yard after yard of critically scarce materials. One major ‘manufacturer esti-: mated that the average dress during the war used from three to
The corresponding dress in the new style, he says, will take six yards. This would represent an increase of between .33 and 100 per cent in material — adding greatly, of course, to the dress’ direct cost, and also creating a scarcity of stylish dresses. Another big producer says that the new styles ‘will make an aver~ age rayon dress use 4% yards instead of only 3!, and a wool dress take 3% yards instead of only 2%. He figures the average increase at 40 per cent for every dress. And that translates into 27 per cent fewer dresses. /
Teen Topics— Hair-Combing In Public Is Taboo
By SALLY
A NATIONAL magazine reporting on teen-agers, pictured a pretty girl combing her hair on the street and in a school classroom.
Don't let it fool you, kids!
The reporter reported what he saw; the photographer snapped the pics. They'd have done the same for a holdup or an ax murder, if they'd had the chance. Hair-combing in public is still frowned on. Not only by Emily Post” (the mag. admitted as much) but, gals, by the guys themselves. A lot of them have told me so. Of course, some boys are pub-
et IM. MEDIATE DELIVERY. You'll love its gleaming white cabinet . . . appreciate its eration . . . admire the superior food-keeping buy yours NOW from our present
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lic hair-combers, too. They are not a pretty sight, either. » ” » TO BE brutally frank, it is an unsanitary habit, boys and girls. Even the healthiest hair breaks off as it is combed and, showers
| shoulders — and near , neighbors
~with bits and pieces. The cleanest scalp sheds tiny flakes of dead skin which settle on coat collars or float in the air we breathe. Not glamour-making, surely! You can't get away from it. Hair-dressing is a part of your personal toilet. It’s as necessary as brushing your teeth-—and about as attractive.
The Brush-Off | Dust carved furniture with a soft flannel cloth over a moderately stiff brush:
-to-clean opper-
See them in our’
A Ch i
four and a half yards of material, .
ARHTRNS
several years. “I would say ant, though. H about the food do, and he beh shortages,” Mr, Several of th ances in Wask Mr, Taft was they had not | “He always e: the rest of us one of his R said. “Of cours like his father. Stuck President. Ta three steaks a sions, and was
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