Indianapolis Times, Indianapolis, Marion County, 15 July 1947 — Page 17

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TUESDAY, JULY 15, NA freee 8 wFashion Comes ‘On the Cuff’ This Fall

'Hour-Glass Figure Makes Come-Back

fashion frequently will be this fall. Here's how one New York designer features the frend.

By LOUISE FLETCHER. Times Woman's Editor NEW YORK, July 15.—Take a deep breath. Hold it. Is the chest out? The tummy in? Fine! It would be even better if the breath. could be held indefinitely —all fall and winter, perhaps. That would assure the silhouette to go with fall and winter clothes. No doubt about it. Next season’s fashions are shaping up to fit a shape—the kind that papa used to describe with hands cupped in a fluid figure-eight. Angles are “out”—anhd ‘curves are AWAY out. And guess what happens to the territory south of the waistline. That area, which has been diligently spanked-and pounded into leanness, gets the run-around too. It bulges with padded or stiffened peplums; with crinoline pet ticoats and panniers; with fabric flanges and pegtop draperies. The men are in favor of the contoured fashions. As one of them says, “Well, they had to do something to make up for hiding « the girls’ legs under those longer skirts.”

Fashion Editors See

Designers’ Creations Compensation or not, contours are what the designers of Seventh Ave, New. York, have up their - sleeves. It is the picture they began to unveil yesterday for 135 fashion writers - here from all over the country for tHe semi-annual press week of the New York Dress Institute. Yesterday's events included showings by Claire McCardell and Kiviette, both in the Pierre Cotil+ lion Room; by Anthony Blotta, and by Maurice Rentner. Miss McCardell of Townley frocks joins other designers in giving f3ll fashion a cuffing. No fisticuffs involved. It's just that cuffs this season are as likely to frame shoulders and hips as they are to finish off a sleeve. From cuffs, Claire literally whirls into skirts, many of which measure 85 or more inches around their below-calf hefns. A complete circle of fabric makes these

ON THE CUFF—That's where

« >

go MORE CUFFS — Black satin makes a hem-line cuff for a cutaway jacket (above), and a profile neckline (below). is achieved via the cuff, Both by New York designers.

rippling - skirts. But because they're on the bias at the top, there is no bunchiness at waist and hips. Fabric is used with a free hand in spots other than the skirt. (In some dresses, there are fully five and a half yards of 54-inch material). Sleeves balloon. Collars grow up to capelet proportions. Full-skirted great coats have shoulder capes or double-tiered half-capes set on over the sleeves. Not only in the McCardell line but through all the designers’ collections the use of more fabric is characteristic. Yardage increases, they say, range from onefourth to two and a half yards per garment, ) Thus the admission that prices are up a little is followed quickly by the. point that you get lots more - fabric for each dollar planked down. “Back. to Claire's clothes, makes many. bodices of elasti¢ized shirring. Necklines also are elasticized so they may be shoved down off the shoulder. And she shows an assortment of quilted cotton costumes for cool weather wear. Kiviette is a name familiar to ‘theater goers. 8he has designed costumes for loads of well-dressed shows (including Roberta) ‘and for such actresses as Gertrude Lawrence, Adele Astaire Ginger Rogers, Gracie Allen and LaMarr, She is one of the designers giving the rounded shoulder a big play, especially by way of dropshoulder effects which curve down smoothly and are accented with capelets or self-fabric loops. She ignores hip padding but some of her evening styles have great hip fullness. More impor-~ y tant, she thinks, is the fact that

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sleeves are quilted.

her skirts have swing. Cartridge pleats at side fronts provide hip fullness. So do gathers and circular cuts matching fullness either front or back.

Mozart Era Blended In Blotta's Costumes 8he shows, too; the tapering hemline in which the skirt nar‘rows as it descends. Kiviette's colors, she says, come from a Gulf of Mexico fishing trip. Greenish blues and a deep midnight blue misted with purple overtones are promiriert; , Anthony Blotta, who can always be counted upon to produce the dramatic and picturesque, went back to Mozart's day for his inspiration this season. It was a perfect choice, providing the Ital ian-born designer free scope to indulge his love of color, He doesn't limit himself to a single tone per costume, either. As an example, take an evening ensemble in which a black broadcloth opera cloak swings open to show a red velveteen and blue satin lining—the satin repeating the concert blue of an anklelength two-piece dress. Women who have qualms about hip padding will find a champion in Maurice Rentner. He's - against it. ‘His contention seems to be that the girls won't go for

CUFFED DECOLLETAGE—Claire McCardell makes a black taffata evening dress with a cuffed decolletage. "The bodice and

anything that suggests breadth of beam. But just the same he breaks down and employs hip emphasis, making sure though that he doesn't impinge upon the slender look. The copper and black irridescent taffeta top of a cocktail costume hag its peplum puffed way out in front of each hip bone, A side-wrapped black faille and crepe afternoon dress has a sweep of gold drapery beaded in black and winding up in a double pouff to create the illusion of an extended hip. Mr. Rentner holds out, too, against the forsaking of shoulder pads. They help create slender lines, he thinks. So he says firmly, “the shoulder pad remains an essential feature of my collection.” The padding, however, is rounded rather than angular at the shoulder point. \ 2 Subsidiary themes in his collection include a face framing style like that of the Charles Dickens period. The suit of armor worn by Ingrid Bergman in Joan of Lorraine provides Mr. Rentner with another motif. He develops it in a color he calls silver steel. Both satin and wool dresses in simple line, ap propriate to the theme. . He features metallic tones, pare ticularly for dinner and evening clothes in gleaming gold, silver and copper lame.

One for Baby, One for Me

THE NATION'S babies are among its most industrial-thinded citizens. Sun-tanning in comfort has long been a problem with both public and manufacturer. The need of screening out the harmful rays, of

{keeping cool while “burning,” made

it” essential that someone develop

‘lan oil that would avoid the danger

and discomfort associated with acquiring an effective sun tan. And, the nation’s babies solved the problem. How? By letting mother (daddy, brother or sister, even grandma and dozens of cousins and friends) -use their antiseptic baby oil for a fast, smooth, even sun tan.

; s 8 ® THE VEGETABLE oil blend helps screen out the scorching rays; being antiseptic, it helps prevent germs from reaching skin openings; it lubricates the skin, helping to prevent thickened, leathéry skin caused by exposure; it leaves no sticky residue; and it keeps you cool, as you tan. Already, mother has been caught using baby’s cotton tipped swabs to apply mascara; baby's pure: castille to shampoo - her hair; and now, baby’s own oil for a perfect sun tan. Mother knows best about one thing, though — she knows to order two bottles of the baby ofl — “one for baby and one for me.”

Freezing Fruits Is Simple Task

Plums, fresh prunes, apricots and

Speed Up Defrosting To speed defrosting, turn refrigerator to the “off” position. Then empty the ice trays, refill with hot water, and put them back in the evaporator, closing the refriger~tor door. In aQout 15 minutes the refrigerator wiJl have defrosted to the point where the ice can be scaled off. Reset the refrigerator for use.

FOR SUMMER!

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THE INDIANAPOLIS TIMES

Understanding Of Own Faults

Is Important

Relationship Better For Child, Parents “NO ONE can, day after day and year after year, play a part—particularly so exacting a part as the perfect parent,” says ' Dr. Melitta Schmideberg, eminent psychoanalyst, in her article, “The Perfect! Parent,” in a recent issued of Mademoiselle. The parent who tries, she goes on, to live up to an impossible ideal

dictated by childhood memories or conventional patterns, is likely to build up “a sense of resentment against the child for whom she subjects herself to such unnatural discipline.” And the child will realize intuitively when he is being used as a tool, when his needs are being sacrificed to a system of ideas,

worked a great deal with children, says that many parents try to shield | their children too carefully, and bring them up incapable of facing the first harsh reality. Others set standards of behavior far too high, arti try to hold the child to them by severity or by the moral blackmail of their own disappointment. Sometimes the motive for a parent’s drive toward perfection is “an undercurrent of fear and hostility,” and the method is a kind of parental “thought-police” — instilling in the child the belief that criticism is betrayal. The child may react deliberately inciting his mother to violent lapses, to counteract his own feeling of inferiority; or by refusing to admit the possibility of the slightest imperfection in his parents. “And the twisted paths his mind must take to justify itself will twist his whole life.” ©

» . ” “THE IMPORTANT lesson of being able to tolerate being in the wrong cannot be learned from parents who have not learned it themselves,” Dr. Schmideberg concludes.

Parents must learn.this lesson. in order to give their child a chance to grow freely in a relationship that is “easy, spontaneous, human and se-

TEEN TOGS— She has a glad smile for this glad plaid— Mary Lou Mohlenkamp, who goes to Ladywood, thinks this belted coat is something to smile about, She's also wearing gray tailored shorts and a mid-riff top—super for playing tennis. (Block's).

How to Build Your House: oe. scmmenera. who has Modern Living Room Must Have

Full Comfort and Efficiency Out of Allotted Space

By PAUL T. HAAGEN, Noted Architect MOST EVERYONE I TALK WITH about an after-the-war-house expresses the desire for a larger living room with increased livability a living room that will truly be a gathering place for all members of

the family, their guests and friends

quirements as possible. | Modern living rooms for either a| new home or a modernized dwelling | must serve more than one purpose for comfort and efficiency. In the small house of today, each room must fulfill as many uses as possible in order to get the desired efficiency and comfort out of the space allotted to that room. In no room of a home is this more necessary than in the living room and it should be arranged to accommodate numerous activities. First, the room should be urge so that separate furniture groupings may be arranged where a number of people may break up into groups: and. carry on conversations, play games or just'lounge. Larger windows should be ncorporated to flood the room with

cured by love.”

plenty of light and sunshine, and

As most people have individual likes and habits, it would seem that this room should be planned to provide for as many personal re-

No. 12

to draw something of the outdoors in, and if there is a view, to take advantage of the beauties of nature. . » . BUILT-IN. «furniture will save much housework. Bookcases and cupboards should be provided for card tables, the storhge of ‘games

and magazines that one wishes to h

keep near by but which are unsightly and clutter up a room. A fireplace that is a wood-burning type lends livability to the living room that no other unit of construction does, and a gathering around the cheery fireplace on win= ter or fall nights makes for pleasant evenings, Plenty of electric outlets should be provided for lamps; radios will be in demand, and comfortable lounging types of furniture seem the

PAGEM Cut-Up Turkey Is Available Year ‘Round

One Carton Is Good For Several Meals By META GIVEN THOSE cartons of cut-up turkey now appearing in meat refrigerator displays are an inspiring innovation.

‘Now turkey can be enjoyed the year

‘round without buying & whole bird, After the first meal remove meat from bones. Crack bones, barely cover with water and simmer to make a strong broth. This is a des licious base for creamed turkey or soup. A recipe appears today for

turkey salad and in Thursday's {menu turkey turnovers make a

tasty maindish for dinner. # » ~ ~ TURKEY SALAD 2 thsps. vinegar 2 tsps, water 15 tsp. salt 14 tsp. sugar

2'4 c. left-over turkey (eut into

large dice) 14 ¢. coarsely diced celery % c. Tokay grapes, halved and seeded % c. mayonnaise Salad greens Sliced stuffed or ripe olives Sliced hard-cooked eggs Combine vinegar, water, salt and sugar and drizzle over diced turkey. Cover and set in refrigergtor to marinate for two or three hours. Add chilled celery, grapes and mayonnaise and toss very lightly with a

'tork. Heap lightly on crisp greens,

garnish with olives and egg and serve immediately. Serves four. .

No Moths Here

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