Indianapolis Times, Indianapolis, Marion County, 9 September 1946 — Page 18
- — _ THE INDIANAPOLIS TIMES =
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sn ‘Rounded Hiplines. Softened Silhouette ~~ In Louise Barnes Gallagher Collection
*
bd By LOUISE FLETCHER ; : Times Woman's Editor LOUISE BARNES GALLAGHER is a designer whose clothes are well known in French rooms and specialty ‘shops all. over the country. Consistently good and well-
“ORGANIZATION A
Thalia Garden, ' 12:30 p.m. Tues.
- 8 ___.
PT bl __ MONDAY, SEPT: 9, "6 J
Welfare. ‘12:30 p.m., Fri, Meridian ‘Hills Country cluk., 35th Annual president's day luncheon.. Book review by Mrs. John Paul Lahr, Mrs, Floyd Schorn, arrangements chairman, MISCELLANEOUS Big Eagle unit, American Legion aux, 7:30 p. m, Thurs. Legion home, New Xugusta. : Mrs. Floyd Lively, 5231 Singleton, Irvington unit, American Legion hostess. Luncheon. Visit to Ben-| aux. 1 p.m, Tues. Post home, jamin Harrison home follows. 124 8. Downey. Dessert luncheon.
* CLUBS 6 pm,
Olnosi Study. 6:30 p. m,, Tues, Mrs. Robert Feller, 4950 Graceland, £ hostess.
14th Annual president's day.
CTIVITIES
Mrs. Herman E. Bobbe, hostess, j Business session 2 p.m. .Annual 4 reports; installation. 3
Camp Fire Guardians. assn, 6:30 "p.m, today. Y.W.C.A. Montily meeting; informal dinner. Frank N. Wallace, speaker; Mrs. Madge Ketrow, arrangements chairman, Indianapolis Historical council, Sate urday afternbon. Mrs. Donovan A. Turk, 3315 Washington blyd hostess. Officers and chairmer
plea first meeting of season.
bred, her styles’ have a verve and youthfulness without ‘any ‘of the transitory hoopla that so quickly dates the
> »
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. St
work of many designers,
to the fashion-wise, This season
them seem even wider (the better
Skirt Fullness, Slim Torso,
In Fall Styles
By BARBARA BUNDSCHU United Press Staff Correspondent NEW YORK, Sept. 9.—~The ladies will be long and slim of torso, and they'll swing their skirts to the rear this winter if Henri Bendel's| custom designers have anything to say about it. They probably will have, because! they've put their heads together for a beautiful and distinguished group | of costumes on. those themes— smartly simple’, daytime suits and dresses, exotic after-dark ensembles, evening gowns which lack only the crown jewels to complete their lavish elegance. The store will make them up to your measure for anywhere from $250 to about $700. The lines look good for a lot of less expensive adaptations for ready-to-wear buyers. Middy Theme Bendel uses a middy blouse analogy to point up the long" torsoline and features it in a group of two-piece costumes in contrasting colors and fabrics. ' One had a black jersey top with lcng sleeves, a high neckline and a tiirned back cuff hem at the low hipline. It was shown over a cafe au lait velveteen skirt with front
a
rounded silhouette—full without being exaggerated. , i The shoulders still are wide and often have attention-getting decoration such as shirring, tucking or epaulet treatment to make
That's why her collections each season are of particular interest
she has chosen to emphasize a
to belittle ‘the hips).
And while Miss Gallagher skips the exaggeratedly deep armhole, her sleeves are often volumindus. Both bishop and flared cuff types
are much-repeated in her line. Necklines—most of them-—are quite high . ... plain and round or with small turned-down col~ lars. Her skirts look longer and, where they emerge from below a peplum, they are straight and narrow. , Without peplums, they may be gently flaring or have front fullness by way of shirring, pleating or tucking. Another of the favorite Gallagher tricks—use of lots of buttons—is continued in the fall collection . . . but in many new, original and decorative ways. Buttons masquerade as discs covered with the same fabric as that of the outfit to which they're hitched. Dozens of them, for instance, may swing from the bottom of a wide sleeve or a flaring jacket hem, ¥ ~ »
Mexican Touch
ONE NOTE in" the collection is the Mexican influence, in both suits and dresses. The designer brought her inspiration back from
Mexico where she visited last winter, The sotuth-of-the-border idea
shows up in the use of braid, hip drapery, boleros and frilled cuffs characteristic of native costumes. A black gabardine two-piece dress has a bolero faced in red, elaborately braided in shiny black silk and trimmed with carved silver buttons. That's the matador idea. . A two-piece black crepe has accents Of narrow brown crepe pleating; pockets high -on the chest, a peplum frill and an un-der-sleeve effect and pleated wrist frill. That came from the Mexi-
Louise Barnes Gallagher designs this new and urbane suit of muted-tone wool. It flaunts an uneven hemline in skirt and jacket. In ‘both cates, the hemlines drop to points at the sides and the line is further emphasized by pointed pocket flaps, posed aver each hip. A row of sparkling jet buttons descends the jacket front from a small, turned-down collar of black Persian lamb, The Suit is not yet in stock here. : :
black—shows up in a cocktail
dress with rounded hipline,
puffed sleeves, horizontal bar: Retailers Pick
ings of the stripe and covere Their Top 10
buttons from neck to hem. Designers
sn | NEW YORK, Sept. 9 (U. P).—
siny satin. Or a purple wool peplum suit may have a blouse of rose crepe banded in purple. As to coats, one of the most outstanding is a fitted style in midnight blue rough - textured wool with a front peplum. Collar and pockets are richly braided in black, and black braid buttons fasten the coat up the front. » » »
” Balloon Sleeves RHINESTONE ball buttons add sparkle to a ‘deep brown satin two-piece cocktail frock made with flared skirt and balloon
“
eck’ $s
Hud. %
I's amazing! 11's wonderful! No chemicals, no electricity, no heat. , , ‘ust comb your hair daily for a short period of time to acquire deep, natural waves. And it workson any type or color of hair, whether it is straight, or has a permanent wave.” Dead looking hair acquires lustre and beauty because its use stimulates circulation at the hair roof,
removes soap residue and dulling film, keeps it shining and
beautiful. It's the natural-way to natural waves . . . §.30
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fullness. The line is prominent in onepiece dresses, where it is usually achieved with hip swathing. It's the bell ringer of one of the most scrumptious evening dresses— if you're. built for that sort of thing. The oyster white silk faille has a simple square neck with wide shoulder straps and hugs the body to a point about midway between Many of her suits have, in place hip and knee. There it is banded| of blouses, tops of contrastwith mink above the full gathers| fabric wtached to the skirts. of the lower skirt. | With a black wool skirt, there Box Jackets Starred | may be an attached blouse of {
For daytime wear the Bendel designers favor a modest use of corduroy and a lot of short box Jackets. The corduroy appears in skirts and jackets combined with other fabrics and in a full suit in sandy beige. v The box jackets, mostly just below the waist, are.shown in fur— black Persian and ocelot were noted —and corduroy as separate pieces and as suit jackets. One suit in winter blue—a bright navy—woolen
Trend to Sofiness ANOTHER standout coat is a fitted wool with pointed collar and vertical inserts through the torso of black American broadtail. -This one has a double row of small black and gold buttons from collar to waist. The Gallagher dresses are almost unanimous in lining up with the fuller and softer trend. The fabrics include rayon and woolen crepes and woolknit fabrics. Striped satin—narrow pink and
can peasant woman's blouse.
» x » Fitted Coat Styles A CAFE AU LAIT gabardine suit has a close fitting jacket ornamented with scrolls of black silk braid; a small black velvet collar and a row of jet buttons front and center.
sleeves which end “just south of the elbow, . All-around skirt fullness marks a daytime frock of heather mixed knitted fabric. Here the fullness sets on just at the hipline and is balanced by balloon sleeves above a waist belted in brown alligator. Louise Barnes Gallagher de~ signs are shown in Indianapolis by Ayres’. It's too early, though, for deliveries to have been completed and specific styles mentioned may not be available.
"The nation’s “10 best designers” in |the eves of their retail store cus[tomers were announced today by | the trade magazine Fashion Trades after a nation-wide poll of some 50,000 retail store personnel. ‘They Coats |and suits—Philip Mangone of New | York; teen-age dresses—Emily Wil- | kens of New York; evening gowns— | Adrian of Beverly Hills, Cal. Misses’ and women's dresses— Nettie Rosenstein of New York,
were, by
category:
had a box jacket closed with three some instances—a. daytime dress velvet in the center. The side cutgold buttons under its small black and an evening coat notably—with jouts were filled in with flesh colored | millinery—Lilly Dache of New York; | Persian collar, a satin blouse which |back insets of full pleated panels in [sheer and the whole thing looked Shoes—Dan Palter of Palter DeLiso matched the sult with a lighter contrasting fabric. It was somewhat surprisingly not one whit indecent. company. New York. sheen. | superfluous on a short black after- | ee eee Furs—Sol Vogel of New York; The back-flowing skirts were 00D dress with a hip swath tied at v J ; | sportswear — Claire McCardell of most beautiful in. evening gowns the back and descending in lonely Book Review Series |New York; lingerie—Mme. Thea which emphisized slimness at the | Streamers. to the floor. The Alpha 'Phi chapter of Psi Tewi of New York; accessories— front and a slightly longer fullness pei Mention should go toi1ota Xi sorority in Fortville wing Richer Rovet o ew York, 4 at back, either in separate fantail|Bondel's new tw on the bare| | Forty other designers were cite bustle effects or simply in additional bosom look—shown in a black velvet, | SPOTSOT Mrs, Russell J. Sanders in for honorable mention in the poll material at the back. |dinner dress with short sleeves. The {a series of book reviews this winter.| which voted on the
The back fullness was obtained
popularity,
| nominees.
._ |the sides and had a rising “V” of | Methodist church in Fortville.
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in [low square neck was cut down at|The first will be Sept. 17 in the First | quality and fashion influence of 198
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In, fact, they need this service just as regularly — and as often — adults’ garments need cleaning.
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Officers meeting « ican Leg tomorrow st. and C mittee c annual re
—Notions, Street Floor. —Toilet Goods, Street Floor,
—Drugs, South Mezzanine.
WE HAVE RADIOS, PLAYERS, COMBINATIONS for
IMMEDIATE. DELIVERY! Radio Dept., Fifth Floor
;
See them all, then make your selection. A wide variety of styles,
a wide range of prices. {
ECHO PHONE Made by Hallicrafter
3-Band table radio, &tubes (inc. rect.), gets standard, short wave and police Drs Handsome Mexican mahogany cabinet.
For
33.530
ELECTROTONE
“ Take One Back to School Portable player, with 4 tube
amplifier, unusual tons, large
will receive the same THOROUGH speaker, plays with lid ‘closed. Beautiful, sparkling cut crystal — just cleaning and careful -handling as arrived from Sweden in tims fo make grown-ups’ apparel, 37.50 Chons * ideal gifts for the Fall Bride. Exquisitely inexpe d : : tery one - severa EY COMBINATION a AiSoblete vsives. 924,00 Dozen ESP urns : ~White Wines ...$20.00 Dozen assortr C—Red Wines .....$21.00 Dozen od 5.Tube radio with high selection So D—Cordials ....... » red 3 €—Shorben $1.90 Bean | j TED and sensitivity, plus an he terrae 924, ozen | fx Me : 1 automatic player that changes ten call Oil Piss as I : a ! Shewn on Our Fascinating Second Floor ,. | LI 3505 CLEANERS |2-in. or twelve 10-in. records at ) : : a one playing. ed woe | (7 Wi ! isa hi se 72.05 - i ed 20 North Illinois ; i 29 esr yn ¢ ik 916th and Pennsylvania : : 28» SANG] steer [| #1622 North Minos 2 ' Ald ab Our Biaiich Stores 59] - 11th and Meridian 1107 Shelby 5534 E. Washington Fm o 4 2. 5 : ; : = . J ahs at - 7 “ ‘ a ¥ | ] 3 A : z v
