Indianapolis Times, Indianapolis, Marion County, 28 March 1941 — Page 26

FRIDAY, MARCH 28, 1941

Spring Clothes Feature Good Lines, Fabrics

American

Hit Their Stride

By MARIAN YOUNG Times Special Writer

NEW YORK, March spring fashion collections are dis-

tinguished by their lack of wacky strange

trimmings and gadgets, lines, unbecoming colors and other so-called ‘nnovations which might make for exciting headlines but never for a nation of well-dressed women, And this in itself is hit their stride, that nobody needs 10 worry any longer about whether they can get along gracefully withut inspiration from Paris The outstanding members of New York's couture are showing stunning clothes that depend for their beauty on good lines, good fabrics and flattering colors. They have stopped struggling se obviously to be original. There's real subtlety in their originality this spring. And that wasn’t true last fall, when the majority of the designers were so determined to make headlines that fur shoes, “peepshow” dresses and other utter nonsense made a noisy, if brief, appearance. The formal evening showing of spring fashions at Bergdorf-Good-man, with its large and experienced staff of designers, was as gala and colorful as Paris openings used to be. The audience applauded a pale pink camel's hair coat over a slim black chiffon gown with pale pink violets at the waistline. It cheerad May baskets of black lace, studded with jet, and set into a white chiffon evening skirt.

“Elsie Dinsmore” Shades

“Elsie Dinsmore” shades—apple sauce green, eiderdown pink, soft blue and mauve—brought applause for a group of hats, many of which are huge cartwheels to be worn far back on the Just behind the pompadour Bergdorf features stiff silk coats for daytime. Oriental themes for both day and evening, slit dinner skirts, peg-top drapery and, most important. great variety in silhouette, in color, in fabrics and general handling of each.

Hattie Carnegie’s Models

Hattie Carnegie’s, there are sloping shoulders and squared ones; skirts full and skirts slim: hard, bright colors and soft ones: severely tailored suits and soft, dressmaker types; bouffant evening dresses and slim, siren sheaths. In other words, the right clothes for any and all figures and individual preferences. Hattie Carnegie appliques a band

At both

of gay tulips around the edge of]

the separate apron on a black dinner dress: uses a wide band of net around the bottom of a tulip print evening dress and so allows legs to | be seen in a dance dress. She shows! a Kelly green blouse with a Kelly] green flannel suit. There's a fireman's red, full-| length day coat over a striking paisley print dress with gloves to! match the print, and a coat of mag- | netic blue wool over s cyclamen and | blue printeq silk dress. In muted shades, Miss Carnegie likes putty beige and, of course. | black and navy. She uses quantities of lace and net for evening. A great many of her mannequins wear bangs.

Designers

28.—The

substantial | proof that American designers have

head, |

THE INDIANAPOLIS TIMES

PAGE 25

Easter bonnets, 1941, are changeable, changeable as the ladies wearing them or the weather they'll wear them in. One may appear in a doll size trifle or young umbrella. Big, little, fussy or plain— .anything goes. For simplicity choose a seashell pink Baku straw banded with a cocoa brown velvet ribbon.

Sailor Is the Basic Hat Form And Only the Name Changes

By HAMBLA BAUER Times Special Writer NEW YORK, March 28.—The sailor is the basic form of millinery. This bit of information has just been revealed by Edward Liebert, | hat stylist, to Professor Bernice Chambers’ class in fashion at the New Tork University School of Retailing, ai og 14 women were wearing sailors titled forward on the face and held by a snood,” he said. “In 1940 the sailor was off the face. | This vear it's worn either off the face or straight as the Gibson Girl wore it. But it's sailor all the same.” “It's eve appeal and a thought {makes a hat a hit,” he said. And | when this was translated into simple language it proved what men have known | for years—but | women are re- a” { luctant to ad- €-X ;

| mit A §

and straw. Note

leads to a quarter of a hat and a quarter of a hat to no hat at all.” Later at the shop which he and his wife maintain at 18 W. 57th St, Mrs. Helen Liebert disclosed the modern technique of making hats. First you consider the crown. “If the crown is right for the face,” she said, “the customer can wear any sort of brim. A woman wtih a thin face must have a small crown, while a round face must have a broad crown to balance the cheekbones.” Once the proper crown is arrived at, the brim is next. “If you want to wear an off-the-face hat or a regular hat you must have a good iprofile, If the profile is not so good, or the face-not so beautiful, the

. Np - N “The thought { \ W sw (TSE | posite to any- | t hing you you could have one upside down, brim line should be broken and unit would be fashion!” even.” haunt the Metropolitan Museum [head sizes were alike. They were adfor ideas. They must study friends | justed by means of inside bands.

{ behind a suc- | cessful hat is gd y) isomething . A\\ | completely op- K / vv | would think of | connected with the word hat. It must be something unexpected and uncalled for | when vou say hat. Take a sailor, if Fashion design, Mr. Liebert ex-| Hat designing has changed a lot | plained, is seeing things Sify in TE MH ye ue from the average person and mak-|Sald. S SU | ing him see it your way. Tomor- by delivering hats 30 years ago, hats row's fashion designers must|were made on wire frames, and all and pore through collections of | Today, with the aid of wooden prints. | blocks on which to shape the allAs an example, the large froth a as Co hoe of hopeful designers were i NE ng Ay a AB pricy how silhouettes of the rococo pe-|IS > Ir D riod may be transformed into mil-|them. Actually, all the milliner does linery. Exhibit A for this was bj ody is select the right Soro navy straw hat with a large felt | drape Rog brim and apply the brim. The brim was cut out on |trimming. : one side in intricate swirling figures | As to what's being worn now and Ey lo oi hay This 1s act sity 10s hen aske y a student about | . S S the effect of half hats on the milli- | number which perches precariously

| nery business, Mr. Liebert threw up [on the back of the head displaying his hands and cried, “Half a hat! the pompadour bangs.

Stoop, bend, knee, Although they fit |i

Hosiery Shop

2 LEG LENGTHS —Medium

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make them comfortable. Also famous for that heel-within-a-heel fea« ture. Medium and extra long lengths, sizes 8!/5 to 11 in colors to

harmonize with your costumes.

Other Blocettes, 69¢ and ?9¢

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ke your skin, the stretch top has enough "give" to

; ; ° BLO K S Street Floor

If your hat must be small, you'll like Maureen O'Hara's choice, a cocky concoction, very smart and yet amusingly impudent. time postilion, with gracefully curved brim. made of a new fabric, a mixture of cotton thread

(the most attractive line a woman

(help make the foot look short by (dividing in half the line from heel

It’s styled like the oldIt is

the pleat in the crown.

‘Camouflage’ Makes Feet [Look Small

By ALICIA HART Times Special Writer “When you see a small, dainty foot on a modern woman, it's more likely to be the result of camouflage than of Mother Nature's generosity.” That's the opinion of Lester Gaba, designer of the famous mannequin Cynthia. Cynthia has a size 5% foot, but cléver streamlining makes it appear much smaller to the eye. “Very few women nowadays have really tiny feet,” Gaba declared. “The modern girl is too athletic— too fond of walking in comfort— to make her feet the useless, if decorative, appendages that used to peep out from underneath her greatgrandmother's hoop skirts. “But even so,” he said, “the chic woman of today can make her foot look just as small and appealing as the ladies in her family portraits.”

Three Rules

Here are Gaba’s three basic rules to keep in mind while choosing shoes: A smart shoe should not be fussy, bulky or angular in shape; it should give the general outline of an oval —every artist's ideal. It should be decorative without getting in the way of the real beauty objective to make the shoe and leg one beautiful unit of the body. It should be functional — which means suitability for the occasion plus comfort,

“Camouflage” Applied The purpose of “camouflage” is to eliminate houndaries, and the same idea can be applied to buying shoes designed to make the foot look smaller, Gaba pointed out. A simple, classic pump of a flexible, thin material such as kidskin does not emphasize outlines as much as a fussy shoe of a stiff, shiny leather. Shoes with straps make the foot look larger, too, because they cut the sweep of line from knee to instep—from an artist's point of view

possesses and from a practical point of view one to cherish so that the line of the foot-length will by contrast seem shorter. Bows on shoes, on the other hand,

to toe. Toeless Shoes

“If your feet are not small to begin with,” Gaba advised, “do not expect them to look smaller by wearing toeless, heel-less shoes. The flesh colored patches at either end of the bulk of such shoes only draw attention to the length of the foot, while a simple shoe which fits the foot like a glove, without excessive highlights, makes the foot as decorative and esthetic as the capital on a Grecian column.” A short vamp and high heel are good for giving the illusion of smallness to the foot, he said, provided the shou fits well without pinching and the heel is not too high to make walking graceful and easy. No women ever fooled the world by squeezing and torturing her feet into toosmall, too-high shoes. Square Toes Helpful Squared toes are helpful in giving a sense of shortness to the foot, Gaba pointed out. Height to the instep is important in developing what painters call “false perspective” to make the foot look smaller. Remember that shoes must fit perfectly, be well-groomed and keep their shape. Shoes that are too small, too tight or made of too thick | and too heavy leather make the feet swell and consequently look larger. Shoes of soft and flexible materials, such as kidskin or fabric, that spring back into shape after wearing, make the foot look dainty.

Dressiness Featured In Night Clothes

Man can now feel all dressed up when caught in his sleeping clothes. New style emphasis in pajamas is on dressiness as well as sleeping comfort. Slacks worn without tops, balbriggan tops, and knee-length sleeping units (some sleeveless), are a few of the new style notes for the well-dressed sleeper. Fabric designs are style-conscious, too, with cotton seersuckers, broadcloths, leno weaves and Oxford cloth in light paisleys, stripes, Hawaiian and South-of-the-Border patterns leading.

Pompadour Hat

To accommodate your smooth, becoming pompadour, you will want a hat that sets well back on the head. One attractive hat has a neat crown of shining black Milan straw with soaring pompoms directly in the front that gives the important “high” effect. A generous veil adds sophistication and helps to keep the

is a “must” for the Easter parade.

and a single pink rose.

tulle.

Crinkled Finishes Are Popular

Crinkled finishes are growing in favor and are available in new cottons as well as time-honored seersucker and organdie. One of these is muslin; another in a fine chambray which has been

For your femininity’s sake, a flowered frivolity

the films chooses a creation of April blve silk, elaborately shirred, with a nosegay of purple violets A knot of violets is tucked into the band of the hat. The sheer veil is of violet

shrunk from 45 to 36 inches and

Anna Neagle of

It's of beige felt with a brown band. special pompon of feathers, It is just the thing for a beige wool suit, the dressmaker type, of course. Wear a blouse of brown, sprinkled with tiny hearts

This dashing tricorne was made by Sally Victor.

Note the

of beige, with the suit.

permanently wrinkled in the process. On the very lightweight cottons, such as organdie and muslin, a special process permits of seer-sucker-like crinkles with the print design left smooth which, when colored, stands out like a brocade. Unbleached muslin and sailcloth,

which have a slight crinkle of their own and eliminate the pressing problem, are other favorites.

Sofa Beds Increase

Forty-five per cent of all American homes have some sort of auxiliary sleeping equipment in addition to their beds, according to a recent survey. Studio couches account for more than a third of this extra bedding, while manufacturers report steadily increasing use of sofa beds.

Choose Right Makeup tor Spring Colors

Use Trial-and-Error Method in Selection

Before you decide that spring's newest colors—ultra violet, mustard

yellow, creamy beige, fresh green and sapphire blue—are not becom= ing to you, experiment with new shades of makeup. Experts agree that any woman can wear practically any color if her makeup is right. There are rosy powders to give brightness to a skin which looks sallow in beige or green. There are shades of rouge which make cheeks bloom in spite of lavender shadows from an ultra-violet dress. There's the right makeup to wear with black, with royal blue, in fact every color under the sun. It’s important to remember, how= ever, that makeup is an individual problem. You can't just dash out and buy “makeup for black” with= out giving any consideration at all to your own skin tones. Trial and error is the only intelligent method of choosing the cosmetics that are right for you. If possible, buy or borrow a goods sized piece of material in the spring shade you hope to be able to wear. Wrap it around throat and shoul ders and then try on cosmetics until vou find shades which give your skin a fresh, blooming look in spite of the reflections from the swatch of fabric. Black presents fewer makeup problems that any other color. It drains the face of natural color, but it does not throw odd shadows across the skin. Green is difficult, of course. It throws a yellowish glow over the average complexion, Mustard yellow and ultra violet can

be trying, too.

Presents

3.90

shoe fashions.

Shop brings you all

things.

Black Blue Brown

Stepins Sandals Pumps

Patent Leather Genuine Reptile

"also in red, navy or giiten.

coiffure neat. This model is shown

anda

the colors,

fashions and

materials you want in shoes.

£96

You need rot be rich to keep up with Our

alert Paragon

the latest develops

ments as fast as they appear at prices

that leave you ample margin for other

COLORS

Saddle Tan Mexican Colors Brown and White

FASHIONS

High Heels Low Heels Flat Heels

MATERIALS

Gabardine Corday

Doeskin

—Paragon Shop, Fourth Floor.