Indianapolis Times, Volume 45, Number 277, Indianapolis, Marion County, 30 March 1934 — Page 20

PAGE 20

Glamorous Evening Gowns Depict Fashion s Swiftest Motion

V aluminous floor length wraps, like the taffeta one sketched right, are newer for evening wear than brief jackets.

floorlength *** n H evening wraps Molyneux, this Light-Hearted Fabrics, Including Chiffon, Net and 1 affeta, wrafit like around the country clubs. coolie coat, in the print t 1 • T") il r T y 1 • tx . r O • IB }T? iZ'^Zutncewmie ca’. ■>, Koreanno,so ms , Are Swept to the Back in Breath-lakmg Designs for Spring one sketched ISf > ried over into midsummer adds importance right, are V m'f/i/j. to formal gowns rrmi nF ruifv newer for T\ c > , , . , . , By (itRTRiDE bailey. * I _ j Sheer fabrics, such as or - 0/ sheerest net, evening j ~r j gandy—yes, net too—add to below. IN the evening gown salons the dream that was walking and the The newest capes for evening are frothy affairs that have the tceart an the illusion of glamour that _— dream that was talking (taffeta) has more recently taken to aspect of a scarf. # , f v ionnet first gave to this undulating, shimmering, floating, flying or sailing, to tell the world 'T'HE majority of evening frocks are designed with fulness swept \'N _ 1 ijj,, sty le at her spring showing. /f j \ of reality that there can be no dead-still clothes this season—not to t h e b ac k. Lelong sponsors a dramatic exception in his JEia J -, v s " ionnet ideas catc hon even for dramatic entrances! forward sweep, which he insists is not abstract, to be identified /\ 4* k quickly in America. Cer - \ y * The idea of movement, which breezed into daytime clothes j n go wns which seem to precede the wearer, “floating ahead in- ■/ /\ \ * jkr. tainly this one will appeal to * W*\ and gained momentum with cocktail and dinner costumes, finds its stead of following the body clingingly.” j \ \ y \ debutantes who will soon he most breath-taking and graceful expression in the formal evening . When there is both front and back fulness usually the front 'wfPk / \ \// I V seeking glamour of the :ool • " / / mode 1S U \'*7 er '.u * ~, .. . , , , , , . lilt / \ NJ* 1 Yv U‘ A* ' Ct? , moae. ... Worth contends that the movies and the beaches are making *I Ik \ %1* : ft yN er kina. -V ■"<‘s? Designers have made the most of light-hearted fabrics, misty us tired of legs, and proceeds to make women more romantic by \ fj 1 7N ' v j tulles and nets, frothy mousselines and organdies, magical taffetas. covering them up. He would have appreciated Marlene Dietrich’s ffj l fL* Tk'' / Japanese garden prints, airy lace. They have dipped them into comment when a newspaper photographer asked her to cross her J 7 Vs 4 '\ 1 fresh colors—cool yellow, warm green, pale yellow-green, sapphire legs. "Oh, you photographers, can’t you think of anything new? W-wiP J - blue. Schiaparelli was able to capture the colors of South Sea birds. Everybody knows my legs.” m '*V. ,A W{' \yi 4 . * * * Yet in a season when informal evening fashions are expected, Mi ' / fa a ,X AA ‘rfk , in as many ways as there are couturiers they have veiled the dignity and grace are preserved in trains which spread like mag- / W W ’ / * M \ W i p&A 1 glamour of the night in clothes that one dreams about—clothes nolia petals on the floor or wriggle like fish tails behind. 0. "rn %}yk : *fy Cf i\C\ VJk 3t There U^h^dramatic version of the princess line, with spiral \Y'E are not going to give up the new found elegance of winter (,%/ // |lv a1 " >v vl l'\ ~ S skirt bounces like a beautiful sweeping staircase. There is the fashions this spring. Last season saw the start of rich maj, y 'O? /yW , >4 I //; m n dynamic back movement as Patou achieves it with shoulder wings, terials, stiff and luxurious facribs and soft shimmery chiffons. b&L rfj '1 uA If volants, swishing tails and slit skirts. Schiaparelli prefers to use These have been given a sheerer interpretation for warm weather v: jk f % y // /Lmm A Gk&'t I net and chiffon in less fluffy ways, to suggest the slinky silhouette wear. but. surprisingly enough, they are iot less formal. ® A i L/ \ ft ISI meh ft of a bird or fish. The days of slapstick, haphazard dressing for dinner and the W. ;R { . > (%\/ ■ i IMI wh* -ri \ Molyneux fashions trains like dragon tails or fans and gives evening are over. The couturiers are determined that this is to k TJprf t|ju j ’ 'if Ly y }>\ 9MI 7 Lfb 1 his evening gowns the slimness of a flower stem. Lanvin shows be a gala season, with all the fashion indulgences of the autre fois > %m I I r 4 i : V jV) | V j I wide winglike sleeves. Vionnet swathes her gowns in full length manner, as Boldini depicted in his portraits of great women. ( ' .Iff' lYk- 1 / w 7 /: \m -•' V) I transparent evening coats that sweep the floor. What a lilting Why not claim your share of the new glamour? Let today’s and j V COntr3St t 0 the grky little J ackets of^ other scas °n s artists discover portraits in you! l|.. l[| J jf '\ Jhßv/ ■-* ' p*ACH new season seet broken in getting the fashioi M \ \ fi / * -‘ji l j ‘ j news into tne clothes and into the shops while you axe reading abou \\ j / V //I )9B [ ’Store rivalry reaches an exciting peak with the arrival of the first im § 1 W \ \ / ' ■"% — : J ports. They are whisked to the manufactur.rs. copied or adapted to th l * j i jl 4 store stylist’s specifications, rushed to the shops, paraded by nuuuiequjnt M k '| | \lj ? j j4* "" ' Theme Song 1 * n pretty good chance bc-m m M tf j I \ Even before the models were seen by new attitude.^ r • i I Ply X I'4 shouting”' the exaggerated capeline the glove designer, says. *T couli / >'# /I dinner hats and the sheer ruffles bSVVo'ISd^n /if jI, 1 [tTfcilrrrfl 1'""” l\ 7# JX/& and P leatings - Hollywood and New on a woman and°stUl S! f .- i ■:% . V y':|: 4 , \ C v 1 York designers were singing the would not look ridiculous.” If ' * I 1 i \ I l same theme song in their own in- _^ nt j f or \ A .ji ’W AA a \ i"tJnTfj| | . imitable fashions. It takes more But what if you haven't the mil i ~........ ntte. tow urt'luttx. " i j|| '• Thr have corncob The most abbreviated undergarment that we have (/Ip] Mill hi W\ ill shops especially tot Ihe C I of low ceiling hideaways, men an see,i to wear beneath evening costumes is sketched below. It serves as /111 1/ iMf 1/ i Indianapolis Times. {WSMmjmMffi VW taking to formal day clothes foi girdle, panties and brassiere. And with most of the new frocks claiming /I M-f ij ! fit; n and lPf.Vi tifi 1 / smart case and hotel wear, mean slips of their own. it is all that you need to wear beneath. ■! f 1 f ( fill ‘1 /* / A i ing that women can exude just tha Designed not to reveal a single wrinkle or bulge, it is in addition soft, Iff? ill I I / mk Youth will be much more glamour in costumes so comfortable and washable. It costs $lO in crepe and lace and lastex, , , ruffle II ! 1 11 if! i PP|Pw aB ’ served in evening these occasions. The seated figure slightly more in satin. , 1 T 1 ’/ I hl\< b pi H iWm } ensembles that max at the center of the group suggest! Tire lace which fashions the brassiere sec- „f net accents Jit II IMi id f * liil'u TU* * n rhtnll t " W l l.i i / diaphanous net and chiffon ovei tions and borders the smooth part over the "l net accents jS f .f. M , . MtUIM The cocktail t Xl be both formal or taffeta( with fan . pleated slcev( , s m fl[ Ifew thighs gives this style the luxury of lingerie the daringly />■§j 11 /i;■il ?j ' ililWWml >* dinner *> Jr informal, like the and a fan-pleated flounce on th< rather ti an the less appealing appearance mf\\\ fHff .-I i ; Mj 1 U\|pv\\%4\\ a deux give |-' - #/ ® dress sketched left, skirt, that ripples and floats in th< % of corsets. low decolletage ml] 1/ f ill if : : 4|i l! IIIuYaIlV; \$V - new emtihasis W :: WB3 and its mate Inna dance. This gown costs $39.75, mos M. / o i th. t i /tlPitl new empnasis m / M and its matching intriguing in dark colors, also avail- . Jr evening cos. wliF/ ltt I M graceful fan WM at right. crowned capeline hat is most flatW at. s /Wm mil / ill ;; i ! f: : ji * ! Ul\ V ' pleated flounces, terirg in pastel shades'of bakot v T’4*7 <• I # ssss^ fl ~ OT ““““‘ seated figure. takes a cluster outlines the Crisp ruffles Fowf/i /s Served in Flattering Creations j / U. smartest Z'tkVjZk”. | | ''OLLEGE girls home for the Irresistible is the w’ay men will clubs. The complete costume may f " white. \ // , / I ( l spring vacation will discover find you in those fresh-from-the- be purchased for around $35. f •'ll ' the jresn-jrom* K : much that Is flattering and friTO-lhath orw*Mi'tiiat \ This gown oi black crepe has S a hands and arms." The always correct ' | possible wraps over the sbouldera, j Sandals are the favorite shoe [ v i J \ georgette bag ;ju Plenty of sleeve interest in the | sandals that match the new eve- ' w ;i x/ / \ ..?! eattt ’°f. \ short fitted jacket, crisply accented ning colors vie with beach styles in j§“< \ \ft j different clips 4 with overlapping ruffles of white or- toe exposure. fPSS i&ZmsA t u _ \i % Y j to accent its m. gandy. The type of jacket that will| With this abbreviated footwear Ep|.i 1 f / individual sjr make the ensemble more informal be sure to wear the new’ sandal fl| r ¥ \ // w / ’ J W l f for dinner dancing now. and in the hosiery. Tinted toe-nails are meant Ip l l j \ shape. summer will serve as all the wrap to show through this latest accessory ' l ‘

4 A Foundation Solution Vf'HETHER the neckline of your new evening gown is (.ra Ngh. swathed in fabric or a daringly low’ V; whether th? h ’Vine is accented by back bows and ruffles or snake- Ba lie underneath diaphragms must disappear and the bust \M r- -• lifted high and wide apart , ovcn'ng costumes reveal so much. That is why e\ e all-in-one foundation garments that we used to th k vere tn? absolute in next-to-nothingness have taken to ; nre stringent methods of control with the fewest possible imi'*es of crepe, satin, lace and lastex. The most abbreviated undergarment that we have seen tn wear beneath evening costumes is sketched below. It serves as girdle, panties and brassiere. And with mast of the new frocks claiming slip ; of their own. it is all that you need to wear beneath. Designed not tn reveal a single wrinkle or bulge, it is in addition soft, comfortable and washable. It costs $lO in crepe and lace and lastex, slightly more in satin. , The lace which fashions the brassiere sections and borders the smooth part over the a m K thighs gives this style the luxury of lingerie rather ti an the less appealing appearance a, /“S corse^s ’

Heralding the Easter parade, there is another parade in progress—that of shoppers to Indianapolis stores. If there were no other sign of better times, the increased shopping would be sufficient proof that a more prosperous era is in the making. Sha ring in the better business are department stores, milliners, florists, and beauticians.

Come summer, and you will see long evening wraps around the country clubs. Another indication that the winter elegance will be carried over into midsummer nights. Sheer fabrics, such as organdy—yes, net too —add to the illusion of glamour that Vionnet first gave to this style at her spring showing. Vionnet ideas catch on quickly in America. Certainly this one will appeal to debutantes who will soon he seeking glamour of the cooler kind.

Youth Is Served in Flattering Creations

/COLLEGE girls home for the spring vacation will discover much that is flattering and frivolous in the new evening costumes, many of which are designed to their favorite formula, to serve both formal and informal occasions.

LVof within recent years has there been a more tempting array of apparel. Suits and coats abound in interesting designs and details. With the close of Lent, there will be a renewal of social functions calling for evening dress. Here again the fashion trend of the moment, which calls for motion in attire, presents numerous interesting

THE INDIANAPOLIS TIMES

After Molyneux, this coolie coat, in the print of K orean blossoms, adds importance to formal gowns of sheerest net, below.

Irresistible is the w r ay men will find you in those fresh-from-the-bath organdies that billow on the sleeves of jackets or define daring decolletages of dark crepe evening gowns. Youth will be served in ensembles like the one sketched at the lower right hand corner of the page. Dancing daughters who cannot be bothered with gathering up trains can concentrate fashion interest at the top. This gown oi black crepe has a low “V” decolletage in front, and an even lower square decolletage at the back, outlined with tailored j bands of w’hite organdy, narrowest! possible straps over the shoulders, I and a tailo.ed organdy bow that may or may not be worn outside of the jacket. Sleeve Intei’est, Plenty of sleeve interest in the short fitted jacket, crisply accented w’ith overlapping ruffles of white organdy. The type of jacket that will | make the ensemble more informal for dinner dancing now. and in the summer will serve as all the wrap that’s needed around the country j

Light-Hearted Fabrics, Including Chiffon, Net and Taffeta, Are Swept to the Back in Breath-Taking Designs for Spring By GERTRUDE BAILEY.

I N the evening gown salons the dream that was walking and the dream that was talking (taffeta) has more recently taken to undulating, shimmering, floating, flying or sailing, to tell the world of reality that there can be no dead-still clothes this season—not even for dramatic entrances! The idea of movement, which breezed into daytime clothes and gained momentum with cocktail and dinner costumes, finds its most breath-taking and graceful expression in the formal evening mode. Designers have made the most of light-hearted fabrics, misty tulles and nets, frothy mousselines and organdies, magical taffetas, Japanese garden prints, airy lace. They have dipped them into fresh colors—cool yellow, warm green, pale yellow-green, sapphire blue. Schiaparelli was able to capture the colors of South Sea birds. ** * * IN as many ways as there are couturiers they have veiled the glamour of the night in clothes that one dreams about—clothes that have mystery! There is the dramatic version of the princess line, with spiral skirt flounces like a beautiful sweeping staircase. There is the dynamic back movement as Patou achieves it with shoulder wings, volants, swishing tails and slit skirts. Schiaparelli prefers to use net and chiffon in less fluffy ways, to suggest the slinky silhouette of a bird or fish. Molyneux fashions trains like dragon tails or fans and gives his evening gowns the slimness of a flower stem. Lanvin shows wide winglike sleeves. Vionnet swathes her gowns in full length transparent evening coats that sweep the floor. What a lilting contrast to the jerky little jackets of other seasons!

clubs. The complete costume may be purchased for around $35. Evening accessories offer a wide choice of the frothy and the tailored. There is the organdy skirted evening bag, sketched in the low’er left group, with pearl-like fastening accenting its fragile gold color frame. It costs less than $5. Organdy Gloves. There are organdy gloves, and sheerest tulle or net ones that veil hands and arms. The always correct glace kid glove for evening is featured in anew eight-button length that ends below the elbow’. Sandals are the favorite shoe fashion for evening wear, to be found in modified and wide-open versions. Many use satin and silver kid in Grecian scroll effects. Fabric sandals that match the new evening colors vie w’ith beach styles in toe exposure. With this abbreviated footwear be sure to wear the new sandal hosiery. Tinted toe-nails are meant to show through this latest accessory luxury.

features. Chiffon, net and taffeta are among the approved materials. Organdy is among the sheer fabrics which are right. Importayit in connection with formal wear are foundation garments designed to give the figure an unbroken, sleek line.

The newest capes for evening are frothy affairs that have the aspect of a scarf. E majority of evening frocks are designed with fulness swept to the back. Lelong sponsors a dramatic exception in his forward sweep, which he insists is not abstract, to be identified in gowns which seem to precede the wearer, “floating ahead instead of following the body clingingly.” When there is both front and back fulness usually the front is fuller. Worth contends that the movies and the beaches are making us tired of legs, and proceeds to make women more romantic by covering them up. He would have appreciated Marlene Dietrich’s comment when a newspaper photographer asked her to cross her legs. "Oh, you photographers, can’t you think of anything new? Everybody knows my legs.” Yet in a season when informal evening fashions are expected, dignity and grace are preserved in trains which spread like magnolia petals on the floor or wriggle like fish tails behind. * * * W E are not going to give up the new found elegance of winter fashions this spring. Last season saw the start of rich materials, stiff and luxurious facribs and soft shimmery chiffons. These have been given a sheerer interpretation for warm weather wear, but, surprisingly enough, they are -iot less formal. The days of slapstick, haphazard dressing for dinner and the evening are over. The couturiers are determined that this is to be a gala season, with all the fashion indulgences of the autre fois manner, as Boldini depicted in his portraits of great women. Why not claim your share of the new glamour? Let today’s artists discover portraits in you!

Authoritative Ensembles Stores Speed Spring Models to Meet Demand of the Stvle-Conscious.

|7 ACH new season sees previous records broken in getting the fashion news into tne clothes and into the shops while you are reading about the Paris originals. ’Store rivalry reaches an exciting peak with the arrival of the first imports. They are whisked to the manufactures, copied or adapted to the store stylist's specifications, rushed to the shops, paraded by mannequins

before an audience that never quite appreciates all the hectic work that is committed in the name of fashion. Ten days were all that elapsed between the openings in Paris and a showing of copies and adaptations in one New York department store. Same Theme Song. Even befc-e the models were seen in America we found evening costumes which spoke with authority of the taffetas that Paris was shouting, the exaggerated capeline J dinner hats and the sheer ruffles and pleatings. Hollyw'ood and New York designers were singing the same theme song in their own inimitable fashions. It takes more than one sponsorship to make a

Os more than passing interest this spring, is the inccr'ease in home dressmaking, as attested by increased sales in dress goods departments. A o small part of the home seamstresses are engaged in knitting, which is showing a marked revival. Every fashion show has attracted larger attendance than has been the case in the recent past.

MARCH 30, 1934

trend, including your owm acceptance of the style. More and more the stores are judging fashions for what they ate worth in appeal to the wearer, rather than by w’here they w r ere designed. Creative talent in Podunk has a pretty good chance of being recognized by this new attitude. All of this brings about a very happy state of things for the fash-ion-conscious who cannot indulge in extravagant spending. Chanut, the glove designer, says. "I could not spend more than SI,OOO on a man effectively, but I could put $1,000,000 on a woman and still she w’ould not look ridiculous.” And for Less? But what if you haven’t the million? Or the thousand? Then you have to be all the more discerning in spending what you have for clothes that are fashion right. Rather than content yourself with an ermine cape that is less than perfect, choose a floor-length wap of taffeta like the one sketch and at the extreme left of the group I: is smartest in dark colors, black, r vy, or brown, though the young crowd will like it in white. This costs $16.95. Anew fabric. “Palmetto,” finer than net, as sheer as marquisette, fashions the formal evening gown shown second from the left. The smaller sketch shows the low decolletage all the way around, softened by a ruffle of net, with shoestring straps accented by emerald green mirror clips. Back fulness in the skirt is accented by a fan-shaped train cascaded with sheer ruffles. Coolie Coat. The starched chiffon coolie coat, in brilliant Korean flower print, makes the ensemble extra important. Sprayed with wistaria, poppies, hollyhocks, and lilacs, the way Molyneux showed them, and loose full sleeves. Flattery and motion expressed at its best. The whole ensemble costs $75. Now that drinks have come out of low ceiling hideaways, men are taking to formal day clothes for smart case and hotel wear, meaning that women can exude just that much more glamour in costumes for these occasions. The seated figure at the center of the group suggests diaphanous net and chiffon over taffeta, with fan-pleated sleeves, and a fan-pleated flounce on the skirt, that ripples and floats in the dance. This gown costs $39.75, most intriguing in dark colors, also available in light ones. The shallow crowned capeline hat is most flattering in pastel shades' of bakou with French flowers as an accent. This costs sls.

Crisp ruffles of white organdy add importance to the sleeves of this jacket . Irresistible in the fresli-from-the-tub way-